Quote:
Originally Posted by BullF-16
Im gonna have them look real close at the drive by wire pedal assembly, the throttle pedal sensor and the wiring up to the TB and look at the TB.
One of the very first things we did on the day of the tune when we discovered this on the streetability tune was to put on a different TB.
Something to go with, thanks
Apparently if the pedal sensor and pedal assembly itself differ in their synchronization with the TB position this will cause reduced power and communications errors.
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That could cause reduced power mode, but should also have codes for throttle pedal sensor error.
Has the ECM been replaced? If everything else checks out, maybe start with a new ECM from a dealer, with the dealer programming it stock for that car. Not starting it, but then trailered to the tuner. Then having a tuner build the new calibration from there.
That takes out the variables of something bad in the tune that has been in there up till now. Making sure the battery is 100% before anyone touches the programming, and nothing is touched during programming. No doors opening, no buttons pushed. It's boring to sit in there for minutes while the tuner does it's thing, but open the door at the wrong moment or the battery gets a bit too low and the ECM is a brick.
I'd also pin drag test the ecm connector if it has been apart several times. The connector might look perfect, but pins can get loose in one that has been apart a lot. Take a known good new male pin from a wire repair kit and push it into each female connector, should have a tight drag to it. Replace any female pins that are loose. Many just look in a connector and call it good. Only way to really know is the drag test, and a little dielectric grease on the connection. Dielectric grease does wonders, whenever they are tinkering with any connections... have them drag test it with a good male pin and put in dielectric grease.