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*TAG UR IT* · 05-26-2009, 02:10 AM

12-05-09

I got my Hurst Short Throw Shifter delivered a couple days ago (Thanks, Chris!!!) and FINALLY had an opportunity to get in the garage to get it installed.

Like all my installations, I like to help out others with DIY threads so that everyone can see for themselves how the installation works.

This following thread should be used as a tool (along with the directions for the install provided by Hurst) to help you get your new shifter installed with ease. First, let me tell you that this install is EASY. If you have any mechanical experience, this is super easy. For someone who's never done anything like this before, follow the directions and you'll be fine. Anyone can do this....and it's actually fun to do it yourself. No need to pay the local guy $100 for install when you can get it done in 45 minutes.

Onward to the pix and video!!!!

First things first, open that box up and make sure all your parts are there. Included in the box are:

OEM Camaro Stick
Chrome Hurst Stick
White "Q Ball" Shifter
Shifter
Stick Mounting Screws (2)
Stick Mounting Hardware (2)
Shifter Mouting Screws (2)
Boot Supports (2)
Tie Wrap
Knob Nut
Grease
Thread Adhesive

Tools needed for the install:

Trim Tool
10mm and 15mm Socket
Ratchet, short extension, and long extension
Torque Wrench
4mm Hex Drive
Hex Wrench 7/32"
Jack and two Jack Stands
Phillips Screwdriver
Wrench 9/16"

Once you have all the parts down, make sure you have a clean, flat surface to work on...or a lift which is preferable. I did this in my own garage using a floor jack and two jack stands. But...I would have preferred to use a lift (if you can get one).

To start:

Use a trim tool to lift up the silver surround (trim/gauge cluster) that goes around the shifter. If you use a flat head (which I don't recommend), USE CAUTION. Scratching the piece is SO easy to do. I decided to slide my fingers under the very bottom right side of the center console and completely pull off the right side cover. I reached under finding two tabs that held the center silver piece in place and pushed them up.

The silver surround popped right up and I removed it laying it over the right side on the floor (never even needing a trim tool or screwdriver).

No need to disconnect any wires as this part will not get in the way.

Next part is to unscrew the 4 screws that hold the shift boot ring in place. Put them in the cup holder for later. Two on either side...

Next, pull up sharply on the stock shifter. You might need to twist it ever so gently and rock it a bit to get it to come up. It DOES take some force. Don't worry...you won't break it. It'll just pop right up. NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU UNSCREW THE 4 SCREWS FIRST....if not, and you pull up on the shifter, that shifter is going to continue going upward with all that force you put into it and the leather boot will come up straight off that boot ring. You'll have to use a flat head to align and pinch the leather back into the holding tabs. Ask me how I know this...

Next, put the car on a lift or use the floor jack to lift it up...put it on jack stands so it doesn't fall on ya! Safety first!

The next step is easy....(as they pretty much all are)...
Use the small extension, ratchet, and your 15mm socket to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the rear transmission cross member bolts. Be careful not to loosen them up too much. It'll drop about 1/2 to 1 inch giving you better access to the shifter. I unscrewed them one at a time and allowed the first one to completely come out. I screwed it back in a few full revolutions and repeated for all 4 bolts. I'm pointing to the two bolts on either side shown here.

Next part is to pull the dust boot forward (putting it back is an utter PAIN).

Under that dust boot, you'll see the shifter. There are two connection pin clips on both sides of the lower shifter.

Included directions show a flat head being used to push them off the pin. I was able to remove them by hand. Once you have the pin clips removed, slide out the cross pin either way and disconnect the change rod from the shifter allowing it to hand out of the way. I actually pushed mine backwards to the rear of the car (probably putting it in gear). But, it got it out of the way a bit.

Then, use that long ratchet extension, a 10mm socket, and your ratchet to remove the two mounting screws and mounting plate. You won't need those anymore. Pull down firmly on the shifter and it'll pop right out. It's a bit of a pain getting it around the change rod, but if you angle it to the drivers side when pulling it out, it'll come out.

Next step is to use the supplied grease and grease up those O rings on the new shifter and pop it up in place. Remember, the longer stepped side of the lower bushings go towards the driver and the ridges of the upper stick connection to the passenger. Pop it up in place (it'll stay by itself) and line up the mounting screw holes.

Here comes the tough part...

Use the provided Locktight (adhesive) placing a drop onto either counter sunk mounting screw. Reach up there with your allen wrench and tighten them down. There is NOT a lot of room at all to work in there. It's a pain... Just stick with it and you'll get them screwed in. Then attach the connecting rod to the lower shifter bushings sliding the cross pin in place. Secure the cross pin back in place with the locking clips you took off earlier.

Next up? Put that dust boot back in place. This was a pain since there is no room to work under there.

Just get one side in place and pull the tabs (one at a time) to stretch the boot around and it'll pop back in place in it's grooves. Now, double check the boot and make sure it's all good. Tighten those 4 transmission cross member bolts back up with your 15 mm socket wrench and your in business. Drop the car back down.

Using one of the supplied boot supports, slide it down over the shifter stub stick. Then work the rubber boot into the groove of the boot support. Push it down far enough so that it clears the two screw holes.

Either use the chrome Hurst handle or stock OEM stick for stock handle shifter. I used the chrome handle for now.

Slide the other boot support on the Hurst handle passed the mounting holes. Remove the stock shifter handle by cutting the zip tie. Replace with the Hurst shifter and line up the leather boot around the boot support using the new zip tie to secure the leather to the boot support. Easy to do...just reverse the process in taking apart the original.

Here's another angle since that first one was blurry.

Line up the groves on the chrome handle to the lower Hurst shift stick and screw in the mounting screws with washers one at a time. I hand tightened mine while holding the shifter in place so that the shifter handle grooves were sure to line up. I then tightened them down properly with my allen wrench.

Then, just put the boot ring back into place screwing it back down w/ the 4 screws left in your cup holder.

Screw the nut onto the top of the Hurst shifter and screw on the white "Q ball." You have to use a wrench after getting the Q ball screwed on to align properly...tighten the screw to keep it in place. Then, just toss the silver console/gauge cluster back in place and you are ready to rock. Make sure you can shift through all the gears. It might be tough at first, but start the car and keep the clutch in. It moved really tight and was hard to get into revers for mine...until I started the car. Then, it moved into reverse with ease.

Summary on the install? EASY. There is LITTLE room to work up there around the driveshaft...and that is the ONLY drawback. Other than that, it's a breeze. Very simple install process.

And my final opinion on the shifter?

TOTALLY different from the stock OEM shifter. MAJOR difference. If you know anyone with a short throw shifter and have not yet run through the gears, dude...you HAVE to try it. It is UNBELIEVABLE.

The two MAIN differences between stock and Hurst are the firmness of the shifts through the gates (waaaay too smooth with stock - I swear, it always felt like I was going to break that stock shifter handle when shifting quickly) and the throw distance. It is immediately apparent that you don't have to move the shifter as far. When rowing through the gears, you FEEL the Hurst shifter go into each gear almost with a "click." It is FIRM. You can FEEL it. If you want smooth, easy, and mushy, stick with stock. If you want to feel your shifts, this is the shifter for you. You KNOW when you shift into gear.

Yeah...so far, I LOVE it. I have not yet "gotten on it." But, when I have the chance, I will...and I'll let ya'll know how it goes. I believe it honest reviews of the parts I put in my car. If I don't like it, I'll say it. Not the case here. I LOVE the shifter so far.

Great job, Hurst!!!

Now...for those back ordered black Hurst knobs.....

05-26-2009, 02:10 AM	#14
TAG UR IT www.Camaro5store.com Drives: 2014 ZL1 #705 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: SA, Texas Posts: 26,558 View My Garage	12-05-09 I got my Hurst Short Throw Shifter delivered a couple days ago (Thanks, Chris!!!) and *FINALLY* had an opportunity to get in the garage to get it installed. Like all my installations, I like to help out others with DIY threads so that everyone can see for themselves how the installation works. This following thread should be used as a tool (along with the directions for the install provided by Hurst) to help you get your new shifter installed with ease. First, let me tell you that this install is *EASY.* If you have any mechanical experience, this is super easy. For someone who's never done anything like this before, follow the directions and you'll be fine. Anyone can do this....and it's actually fun to do it yourself. No need to pay the local guy $100 for install when you can get it done in 45 minutes. Onward to the pix and video!!!! First things first, open that box up and make sure all your parts are there. Included in the box are: OEM Camaro Stick Chrome Hurst Stick White "Q Ball" Shifter Shifter Stick Mounting Screws (2) Stick Mounting Hardware (2) Shifter Mouting Screws (2) Boot Supports (2) Tie Wrap Knob Nut Grease Thread Adhesive Tools needed for the install: Trim Tool 10mm and 15mm Socket Ratchet, short extension, and long extension Torque Wrench 4mm Hex Drive Hex Wrench 7/32" Jack and two Jack Stands Phillips Screwdriver Wrench 9/16" Once you have all the parts down, make sure you have a clean, flat surface to work on...or a lift which is preferable. I did this in my own garage using a floor jack and two jack stands. But...I would have preferred to use a lift (if you can get one). To start: Use a trim tool to lift up the silver surround (trim/gauge cluster) that goes around the shifter. If you use a flat head (which I don't recommend), USE CAUTION. Scratching the piece is SO easy to do. I decided to slide my fingers under the very bottom right side of the center console and completely pull off the right side cover. I reached under finding two tabs that held the center silver piece in place and pushed them up. The silver surround popped right up and I removed it laying it over the right side on the floor (never even needing a trim tool or screwdriver). No need to disconnect any wires as this part will not get in the way. Next part is to unscrew the 4 screws that hold the shift boot ring in place. Put them in the cup holder for later. Two on either side... Next, pull up sharply on the stock shifter. You might need to twist it ever so gently and rock it a bit to get it to come up. It DOES take some force. Don't worry...you won't break it. It'll just pop right up. NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU UNSCREW THE 4 SCREWS FIRST....if not, and you pull up on the shifter, that shifter is going to continue going upward with all that force you put into it and the leather boot will come up straight off that boot ring. You'll have to use a flat head to align and pinch the leather back into the holding tabs. Ask me how I know this... Next, put the car on a lift or use the floor jack to lift it up...put it on jack stands so it doesn't fall on ya! Safety first! The next step is easy....(as they pretty much all are)... Use the small extension, ratchet, and your 15mm socket to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the rear transmission cross member bolts. Be careful not to loosen them up too much. It'll drop about 1/2 to 1 inch giving you better access to the shifter. I unscrewed them one at a time and allowed the first one to completely come out. I screwed it back in a few full revolutions and repeated for all 4 bolts. I'm pointing to the two bolts on either side shown here. Next part is to pull the dust boot forward (putting it back is an utter PAIN). Under that dust boot, you'll see the shifter. There are two connection pin clips on both sides of the lower shifter. Included directions show a flat head being used to push them off the pin. I was able to remove them by hand. Once you have the pin clips removed, slide out the cross pin either way and disconnect the change rod from the shifter allowing it to hand out of the way. I actually pushed mine backwards to the rear of the car (probably putting it in gear). But, it got it out of the way a bit. Then, use that long ratchet extension, a 10mm socket, and your ratchet to remove the two mounting screws and mounting plate. You won't need those anymore. Pull down firmly on the shifter and it'll pop right out. It's a bit of a pain getting it around the change rod, but if you angle it to the drivers side when pulling it out, it'll come out. Next step is to use the supplied grease and grease up those O rings on the new shifter and pop it up in place. Remember, the longer stepped side of the lower bushings go towards the driver and the ridges of the upper stick connection to the passenger. Pop it up in place (it'll stay by itself) and line up the mounting screw holes. Here comes the tough part... Use the provided Locktight (adhesive) placing a drop onto either counter sunk mounting screw. Reach up there with your allen wrench and tighten them down. There is NOT a lot of room at all to work in there. It's a pain... Just stick with it and you'll get them screwed in. Then attach the connecting rod to the lower shifter bushings sliding the cross pin in place. Secure the cross pin back in place with the locking clips you took off earlier. Next up? Put that dust boot back in place. This was a pain since there is no room to work under there. Just get one side in place and pull the tabs (one at a time) to stretch the boot around and it'll pop back in place in it's grooves. Now, double check the boot and make sure it's all good. Tighten those 4 transmission cross member bolts back up with your 15 mm socket wrench and your in business. Drop the car back down. Using one of the supplied boot supports, slide it down over the shifter stub stick. Then work the rubber boot into the groove of the boot support. Push it down far enough so that it clears the two screw holes. Either use the chrome Hurst handle or stock OEM stick for stock handle shifter. I used the chrome handle for now. Slide the other boot support on the Hurst handle passed the mounting holes. Remove the stock shifter handle by cutting the zip tie. Replace with the Hurst shifter and line up the leather boot around the boot support using the new zip tie to secure the leather to the boot support. Easy to do...just reverse the process in taking apart the original. Here's another angle since that first one was blurry. Line up the groves on the chrome handle to the lower Hurst shift stick and screw in the mounting screws with washers one at a time. I hand tightened mine while holding the shifter in place so that the shifter handle grooves were sure to line up. I then tightened them down properly with my allen wrench. Then, just put the boot ring back into place screwing it back down w/ the 4 screws left in your cup holder. Screw the nut onto the top of the Hurst shifter and screw on the white "Q ball." You have to use a wrench after getting the Q ball screwed on to align properly...tighten the screw to keep it in place. Then, just toss the silver console/gauge cluster back in place and you are ready to rock. Make sure you can shift through all the gears. It might be tough at first, but start the car and keep the clutch in. It moved really tight and was hard to get into revers for mine...until I started the car. Then, it moved into reverse with ease. Summary on the install? EASY. There is LITTLE room to work up there around the driveshaft...and that is the ONLY drawback. Other than that, it's a breeze. Very simple install process. And my final opinion on the shifter? TOTALLY different from the stock OEM shifter. MAJOR difference. If you know anyone with a short throw shifter and have not yet run through the gears, dude...you HAVE to try it. It is UNBELIEVABLE. The two MAIN differences between stock and Hurst are the firmness of the shifts through the gates (waaaay too smooth with stock - I swear, it always felt like I was going to break that stock shifter handle when shifting quickly) and the throw distance. It is immediately apparent that you don't have to move the shifter as far. When rowing through the gears, you FEEL the Hurst shifter go into each gear almost with a "click." It is FIRM. You can FEEL it. If you want smooth, easy, and mushy, stick with stock. If you want to feel your shifts, this is the shifter for you. You KNOW when you shift into gear. Yeah...so far, I *LOVE* it. I have not yet "gotten on it." But, when I have the chance, I will...and I'll let ya'll know how it goes. I believe it honest reviews of the parts I put in my car. If I don't like it, I'll say it. Not the case here. I LOVE the shifter so far. Great job, Hurst!!! Now...for those back ordered black Hurst knobs.....