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Originally Posted by Mgizzle
Ur camber curve depends on ur linkage, so lowering it will follow same curve as not lowering it, gains could be different depending on where u start on curve. However, increasing static camber while lowering cg and having highere wheel rates, results in less roll.
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I'm not exactly arguing with that, only that the gains in terms of reduced roll are less than what either the increase in spring rates or the lowered ride height would suggest. IOW, 20% - 35% stiffer springs as in OP's situation will not reduce roll by that much, nor would a 5% lower CG (about a 1" 'drop') result in a 5% reduction in roll if you held the spring rates constant.
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Hence you could have better camber at full lat gs due to this vs stock. Tires dont lie, and my tires at -1.4 are worn on the outside.
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That certainly suggests that you're better off then you would be with OE springs, OE preferred camber, and OE ride height, even when I don't know what you've changed away from OE other than camber.
What that also tells me is that -1.4° isn't far enough negative for however enthusiastic your cornering is (hopefully there isn't a toe issue clouding the picture), while certainly not being too far negative for however much hard braking you do. But I'm not entirely surprised at your observation - I'm getting virtually dead-even wear across the treads of both my summer and winter tire sets with front cambers (also a strut suspension) set at -1.8°. Mostly enthusiastic street driving, so let's call that about 5/10ths, maybe 6/10ths on occasion.
A lowered car absolutely should be faster and drive better once you retune your static camber setting and all the other little things to work better at the lower ride height, instead of simply whacking an inch or so off the ride height, letting them fall wherever they may, and hoping for the best.
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Get the basic mechanical grip first, which is camber etc. And then you can worry about transient tools like dampers. Transients are for polishing lap times, ur lucky to get even half a second gain with perfectly set up dampers per lap vs. What comes onthe car.
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I'll suggest that a lot of the 1LE's goodness comes from these refinements, and that transient behavior and "feel" are more what's noticed in the street part of one's driving.
Quarter turn adjustments with Koni single adjustables can make for noticeable improvements in overall composure, and slightly coarser adjustments are enough for me to note differences specifically in tire grip (making no other adjustments) . . . and I'm strictly an amateur at this sort of test-driver evaluation.
Norm