So many of you manual tranny guys may not be aware of this "issue". The Camaro having been my first hydraulic clutch I wanted to do everything in my power to prevent any sort of future problems or premature failure. I didn't know much about the hydraulic clutch system, but as soon as I started reading more and more posts concerning possible damage due to clutch dust inside the fluid system I wanted to nip the cause in the bud. This is the article that absolutely sold me on the necessity. I've included a few pics of the finished project, the first is
@2SSRS's location the others are of my car with the reservoir mounted the same as
@flht99b.
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
I do not want ANY of the credit for this, I am simply posting some good info from Camaro5 members
@flht99b and
@2SSRS. Thanks, guys for your insight and help concerning parts.
You will need a GTO clutch reservoir, which is a GM part but very hard to acquire by most (believe me, I tried). I got mine from
@2SSRS, and as far as I know he has quite a few on hand at any given time. Please chime in if I'm mistaken
. I got my EPDM hose and EPDM cap, as well as the hardware from
@flht99b. Thanks to both of you!
As far as I know, I took the last of
@flht99b's spare hardware so you probably won't have the luxury I did and have to do your own legwork. You'll need (2) bolts (self tapping) or a set of blind nuts, an EPDM hose (17") and an EPDM cap.
Tools and supplies you’ll need are regular and needle nose pliers (or vise grips) to get the factory clamps off the stock hose that runs from the clutch master/slave cylinder to the brake master cylinder reservoir. The firewall end will be a PITA, I used vise grips. You will re-use these clamps on the new hose, one at the new GTO clutch reservoir end, the other at firewall.
You’ll need a right angle drill and a ¼” drill bit for the finish size holes ( 2 ) that you will drill in the factory vertical bracket that currently holds the positive battery cable. I started with an 1/8” pilot hole and then finished both holes with the ¼” drill bit. The mounting hardware with the shaft on it goes in from the front of the car side of the bracket that you drilled the holes in. In other words, the hardware parts I sent with the shaft on it goes in so that the screws that screw in are on the GTO reservoir side. From the pictures I posted on the forum (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=34085&page=10 ) beginning with post # 237 you can see I made a template from sticky back paper by tracing the back of the GTO reservoir and put it on the positive battery cable mounting bracket perpendicular to the outer edge of the bracket so I could accurately locate the 2 mounting holes ( center punched so the 1/8” pilot hole would not wander ). @flht99b
I used a dremel to make the pilot holes, it didn't have much torque so it took patience. Then I finagled a small cordless drill in there to enlarge the holes to1/4".
To remove the positive battery cable from the bracket, you undo the 3 snaps at the top of the red cover so it comes off. Then you squeeze the black part of the plastic holder, the side closest to the firewall and pull up and the battery cable with the black plastic mount/cover slides up and off the metal bracket. I pushed it aside and ensured it was kept away from all metal for safety. Once the GTO reservoir is installed, just slide the positive battery cable and it’s black holder back onto the bracket and snap the top red cover back on.
You’ll need DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, your choice. Factory is DOT3.
You’ll need some method ( a motorcycle brake/fork syringe with a small hose on the end works best ) to remove the existing brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir. They can be found at motorcycle shops and I understand Wal-Mart carries them in the motorcycle section of the store.
You’ll need lots of rags, fender covers, paper, whatever to ensure brake fluid does not come in contact with any painted finish. You can get 99% of the existing brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir with the syringe very easily, there will be only a few drops of fluid left in the hose you are replacing so you can minimize the spillage of brake fluid to almost zero. I had a single drop hit the sloped part of the shock tower and it ran, instantly wiped it up but there is still a noticeable "stain".
Brake fluid eats paint like a fat kid eats cake! Be sure NOT to pump the brake pedal for any reason while you have the brake fluid removed from the brake reservoir, you could possibly introduce air into the system and then would have to bleed the master cylinder and/or entire brake system.
Once you’ve finished the installation, just top off the brake master cylinder reservoir and fill the new GTO clutch reservoir. Pump the clutch pedal several times, add fluid as necessary and you are good to go. There is no need to bleed the clutch or brake master cylinder unless you intend to flush all the fluid out of them.
There is no relocation of the battery cable with the mounting position and method I choose. If you are reasonably careful measuring and drilling the 2 reservoir mounting holes, the clutch reservoir will be dead level in both planes.
Again, much of this is taken from information given to me by
@flht99b and
@2SSRS, so
GIVE CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE! I operated on advice given to me by them, and they deserve any thanks you might have
. All I have done is put it into a single DIY post. Hope this helps!