Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Stillen
Mark..... I'm not really sure where you got your information but it is possible without taking the rear shocks off the car to adjust the compression. it may be a pain in the a$$, but it is possible. We are working to see if we can come up with a custom inverted style allen tool for easy access but that is still a bit out. If you have drilled the access hole for the rebound adjustment at the top, you can adjust the rebound. The lower compression adjustment will be a bit harder.
I personally run KW's on 4 of my current project cars and haven't had to remove their dampers on any make or model. I also verified with KW engineering this morning and they have confirmed that you do NOT have to remove the shock but that it is easier if you do. The whole shock does not need to be removed, just the lower shock bolt. However like I said, we are working on a quick fix for that.
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He got the information from me as I completed the install. If the lower adjustment can be made with the units mounted, I'd like a picture of the car lifted with the adjustment in process. Adjusting them on the car otherwise will require lifting of the car, removal of the wheel, removal of the lower bolt, and removal of the lower control arm to knuckle bolt. Removing of the lower strut bolt alone means that you will have to pry the unit upwards under spring pressure which isn't going to go well.
I've also seen springs settle up to 1/2" during the first 3000 miles or so, hence the reason why I asked him to drive it prior to more adjustments or an alignment. The original setting was done to thread count, car lowered, height measured from the lift runway to bottom of fenderwell/floorpan area, then the units were adjusted again to equal them out for height. No scale was available or used.