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Old 11-15-2013, 12:12 PM   #5
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Drives: Chevys at the limit
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by got2gozoom View Post
1LS comes with FE2 - FE2! YICH FE2 pushes the front end around like a grocery cart if you get aggressive. Also, really rough road surface gets the wheels bouncing around like soccer balls on the road. So I am trying to be - uhoh - LOGICAL.

FIRST (easy weight loss)
The Braille 15lb battery. Should crank a V6 if it works on SS V8's. Drops 30lbs.

SECOND (sportier sound and easier airflow in and out of the engine)
A good larger typical walled off "cold air" intake with home made air scoops and relocated washer bottle
Improved exhaust I will cut the 2.25" stock stainless steel pipes just infront of the stock mufflers
and put in 2.25"-3" adapter and 3" core Magnaflow 14" long straight through mufflers and reuse the stock tips.

I suggest going with no larger than 2.5" on the V6

THIRD (nice diet pieces)
4 new 18" wheels - at least low pressure cast and shot peened - around 21lbs each plus lightweight 150mph rated tires may drop unsprung weight from 66lbs per each steel wheel and stock tire down to 48 punds or so. Might as well go forged aluminum lug nuts also. To keep initial cost down I may just run the OEM tires til they are gone.

Light weight wheels and tires are always a good idea!

FOURTH (safety)
I looked into lightweight rotors to drop more unsprung weight but jiminy thats too costly for an LS. Braided brake lines, ceramic pads, and caliper paint may have to do on braking for now. Leads to a question. Has anyone found ANY calipers we could scrounge that would bolt up and give us a few more brake pistons to push the pads in?

The Stock SS calipers are likely your best cost effective solution. I'd suggest looking into them before doing the stainless lines as you will have to purchase different lines for the SS calipers.

FIFTH (handling
On go the 1LE front and rear sway bars and front end links, they are great for when all 4 tires/wheels are the same size like on an LS. I wish there were big hollow lightweight sway bars for the cost of the 1LE's but there arent. Along with this the Pedders rear subframe bushings go in along with higher durometer rubber LCA bushings and rear diff bushings. I really want to use rubber for long term durability. I've bought poly before and it just didnt work out. Do the 1LE parts like the swaybars and LCA's come with higher durometer rubber than lower suspension spec cars? i dont know. Maybe a guru does. at the same time, the rear shocks get replaced with Koni's
The 1LE sway bars are a good setup, but I would leave the differential and rear lower control arm bushings alone. Get a set of 1LE/ZL1 toe rods (come stock with spherical bearings) and address the bushings in the trailing arms or just pick up a full replacement set. The trailing arms are not a bad place for poly IMO. Also, don't forget about the upper control arm bushings while you are doing the subframe bushings.

SIXTH (big grin factor)
3.91 or 3.45 rear gears to replace the 3.27 stock ones in the rear posi.
I may stay with the stock gears if they are just about topping out when the car clears the 1/4 mile traps.

I would love to drop about 120 lbs from the car with all seats in and then on road courses or for 1/4 miles I could quickly remove the passenger seat, upper and lower rear seat and the spare tire and cover to get out another 70lbs..

These 1LS V6 Manual 6 speed cars are so much car for the money. I am very happy I bought it. It is a Victory Red 2013 so no Accord rear end with a pancake top trunk lid nor little skinny headlights. I do like the 2014 wheels though ... hmmmmm I wonder how much THEY weigh??.

Does this seem like a sound plan to you guys??
I posted my thoughts in BLUE. Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007
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