SS Brake Line Install

[Jiver11]

So I have been searching for some information on installing stainless steel brake lines and my only concern is when removing the line how much fluid will be lost? Will it be whatever is inside the line at that point or will the brake/clutch fluid reservoir run completely dry when removing the lines? I just want to make sure I don't introduce any air into the master cylinder. The bleeding process will not be an issue.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks

[Black_SS10]

As long as you do not touch/press the pedal during install no air will be introduced into the master cylinder. I did mine one at a time and bled them then and there. Make sure you bleed the brakes, obviously. If memory serves right on the brembos, its inner then outer bleeder. I also used a rubber mallet to lightly tap the calipers between bleeds to make sure the air goes up and thus bleeds completly. I bled each corner 3 times.

[Olddudesrule]

You wont lose much at all. Just check the reservoir after installing each line, top off if necessary, and follow the bleeding procedures afterward. Keeping the reservoir cap on will slow any flow down. Mine took about an hour, and pedal felt nice and firm afterward.

[Nick S]

Originally Posted by Jiver11

So I have been searching for some information on installing stainless steel brake lines and my only concern is when removing the line how much fluid will be lost? Will it be whatever is inside the line at that point or will the brake/clutch fluid reservoir run completely dry when removing the lines? I just want to make sure I don't introduce any air into the master cylinder. The bleeding process will not be an issue.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks

OP,
I purchased this fluid stopper kit and it works great. That way you can plug up the line as soon as you break the connection open.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6703-Line...id+stopper+kit

This will help minimize the amount of brake fluid that drips out and potentially onto other car parts or the inside fender metal.

Here's a tip for you. When going to reconnect (might help when disconnecting too), take the screw out of the metal bracket that the flexible brake line gets clipped into on the fender wall so your new brake line isn't held tight against the inside of the fender. I found it much more difficult to get the threaded nut on the hard brake pipe from the car side to start properly when my new flexible brake line was mounted rigidly to the inside of the fender. It was much easier to clip the flexible brake line into the bracket and then remove the entire bracket/brake line assembly from the inside fender wall so I could line it up better with the hard brake pipe threaded nut and get it started. I think once you try the first one you'll see what I'm talking about.

[Jiver11]

Perfect thank you guys! This is what I needed to know, didn't want to have issues with losing all the fluid when removing the lines. I will basically remove existing line and put on new SS line right away for each corner. Then bleed brakes accordingly.

[Nick S]

Originally Posted by Jiver11

Perfect thank you guys! This is what I needed to know, didn't want to have issues with losing all the fluid when removing the lines. I will basically remove existing line and put on new SS line right away for each corner. Then bleed brakes accordingly.

I added an installation tip after you may have read the first post. Might want to re-read my first post.

[Jiver11]

Originally Posted by Nick S

OP,
I purchased this fluid stopper kit and it works great. That way you can plug up the line as soon as you break the connection open.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6703-Line...id+stopper+kit

This will help minimize the amount of brake fluid that drips out and potentially onto other car parts or the inside fender metal.

Here's a tip for you. When going to reconnect (might help when disconnecting too), take the screw out of the metal bracket that the flexible brake line gets clipped into on the fender wall so your new brake line isn't held tight against the inside of the fender. I found it much more difficult to get the threaded nut on the hard brake pipe from the car side to start properly when my new flexible brake line was mounted rigidly to the inside of the fender. It was much easier to clip the flexible brake line into the bracket and then remove the entire bracket/brake line assembly from the inside fender wall so I could line it up better with the hard brake pipe threaded nut and get it started. I think once you try the first one you'll see what I'm talking about.

I probably won't use the fluid stopper kit. I will keep an eye on fluid levels when switching all of this out.

Thanks for the tip. This will definitely make the install quicker once I remove my existing flexible line!

[Black_SS10]

The loss of fluid is minimal if your swapping the lines out one at a time.

[Jiver11]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

The loss of fluid is minimal if your swapping the lines out one at a time.

That is exactly what I will do. I probably won't bleed the brakes until I am completely done with the installation of all (4) corners. I plan to purchase the brake/clutch fluid reservoir separation kit so I will be switching from dot 3 to dot 4 fluid for both. Then I will do a full flush.

Hopefully (3) 500 mL jugs of brake fluid will do the trick.

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by Jiver11

That is exactly what I will do. I probably won't bleed the brakes until I am completely done with the installation of all (4) corners. I plan to purchase the brake/clutch fluid reservoir separation kit so I will be switching from dot 3 to dot 4 fluid for both. Then I will do a full flush.

Hopefully (3) 500 mL jugs of brake fluid will do the trick.

I bled mine after each line install. I had my uncle operate the pedal. I found it easier that way since I am already there installing the line, rather than going back around after install. Plus it limits the air that is introduced via the new line from going anywhere except for out.

[Jiver11]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

I bled mine after each line install. I had my uncle operate the pedal. I found it easier that way since I am already there installing the line, rather than going back around after install. Plus it limits the air that is introduced via the new line from going anywhere except for out.

I guess I could do that right away. I will probably install the new reservoir kits and then start working on the brake lines after the fact. I can then bleed all new fluid throughout each line.