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Old 12-01-2009, 01:43 AM   #1
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2010 Camaro Stereo BA Speaker Wiring Info

I added bass blockers to my door speakers today. I did this in my 02SS as well for my doors and rears as it takes out up to (for my application) 50w of bass from the speakers allowing much cleaner highs. I would ONLY suggest doing this if you are running subs in the trunk. You get much cleaner and louder highs when the volume gets up there into the 35 to 40 range. It's still a lot of distortion beyond that 40 to 45 range. But, it cleans it up a lot and is worth it.

I looked around on the web for the wiring diagram and even called Boston Acoustics to see if they had the 2010 Camaro stereo wiring diagram. The main reason you need this is to find out which speaker wire is the positive and which wire is the negative. You want to add the bass blocker (commonly referred to as a speaker saver found as Best Buy and other stores) into the positive wire as close to the speaker as possible. Just take off the door panel, remove the single screw that holds the speaker in place, disconnect the speaker, and cut the positive wire about two inches from the connector. Expose the wire on either end and toss in the bass blocker...twist the wires at either end...tape it up w/ electrical tape, solder it..whatever, reconnect and put the speaker back in and the door panel back on. VERY simple process.

I finally called my Chevy dealer and the only person who could give me the schematics (over the phone only) was the shop foreman. So, if any of you want to do like me (who have added subs and want cleaner sound for your mids), here's the info on which wires are what. You'll need this info and I sure as hell couldn't find it on the web!

Again, I only did the doors...but here's for all the speakers.

Center speaker: yellow is positive

Driver door: tan is positive and light gray is negative

Passenger door: light green is positive and dark green is negative

The rears have two speakers on either side....

Left Rear Sub: dark blue is positive and light blue is negative
Left rear high: dark blue w/ white tracer is positive and green is negative

Right Rear Sub: light blue is positive and blue w/ black tracer is negative
Right rear high: dark green is positive and light blue w/ black tracer is negative.



Have fun!

No...I didn't bother w/ the door tweeters since they are separate and I do believe they are the common red/black wires meaning pos/neg...from what I remember pulling them out twice. ....yeah...red and black.
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:42 PM   #2
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All of these wires should be the same color as the wires coming out of the BA amp in the trunk, correct?
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Old 12-01-2009, 01:55 PM   #3
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At what Hz do those filters block at?
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Old 12-01-2009, 01:57 PM   #4
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I think he meant 50Hz, not 50w...
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:00 PM   #5
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Thanks alot for te info TAG! This will help alot for me since 800 rms will be locked in my trunk like shunt
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Old 12-01-2009, 07:56 PM   #6
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Do the speakers have the resistance marked on them -- are they 4 or 8 ohm?
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Old 12-01-2009, 07:59 PM   #7
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Thank's Tag for the info I 'm Thinking of upgrading mine.
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroSkooter View Post
All of these wires should be the same color as the wires coming out of the BA amp in the trunk, correct?
Pretty sure that's right. FROM the amp to the speaker has to be the same color. That would be pretty messed up if there were a male to female jack where the colors just changed...lol. Talk about confusing everyone...
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Originally Posted by pnyklr View Post
At what Hz do those filters block at?
There are different sizes. The ones I got block 0 to 300Hz into a 4-ohm speaker and 0-150Hz into a 8-ohm speaker that is 50 watts or less.

The capacitor value is: 133mfd 50volt non-polar 10%.
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Originally Posted by TJ91 View Post
Thanks alot for te info TAG! This will help alot for me since 800 rms will be locked in my trunk like shunt
U got it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by deljaso View Post
Do the speakers have the resistance marked on them -- are they 4 or 8 ohm?
Didn't look. Not sure if 4 or 8.
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Originally Posted by CAM MAN View Post
Thank's Tag for the info I 'm Thinking of upgrading mine.
U bet!



Now that I've had some time to listen to my system for a bit, I'm thinking of adding a bass blocker to the dash speaker as well.
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:34 PM   #9
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Where did you get your remote turn on power for additional amp, and where did you get your input for your new amp? Getting ready to open up the panels to install my stuff and need to know which wires to splice into. Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:23 AM   #10
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Can't help you there. I didn't wire the amp. Don't know where they ran the wires too. Sorry
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Old 12-23-2009, 01:20 AM   #11
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BTW, for those wanting to put bass blockers in the rear decklid speakers, you can access the speaker wires from the trunk. You don't need to pop out the mesh grills and remove the speakers to get to the wires.
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:00 AM   #12
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Bass blockers are a good idea in some factory systems that send a full signal to the speakers. But, these filters will have no effect on the door speakers or front speaker in a BA system, because the Boston amp is already applying a high-pass filter to these outputs. The bass blocker would be trying to eliminate frequencies that are not present.

The rear deck speakers have separate wires for the tweeter and woofer. The tweeters already have a high-pass filter and the woofers have a low-pass filter. Adding bass blockers to the woofers would have about the same effect as un-plugging them, because only low frequencies are being passed from the amp, then if you block them, you essentially have little or nothing left.

If you are just adding a powered sub and not replacing the amp or other speakers, then it might be desirable to disable the 6x9 subs with bass blockers (or un-plugging them). This way you are replacing the crappy bass and not just adding better bass to it.

This still leaves one of the big problems with the BA system, which is no mid-range frequencies coming from the rear at all. There are only tweeters and subs. I think a well designed sub upgrade would also involve routing a new signal to the 6x9 speakers that includes mids, otherwise the 6x9s are wasted.
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:00 AM   #13
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Hey Guys Artie in Az. I bought a pair of Infity 6x9's for my camaro and I removed every panel overlaping the rear deck panel to lift it off and it's not happening? The way it appears would seem that it would come right off!! I pulled all the clips off that I could find and it still will not come off. The speakers are sandwhiched between the plastic covering and the metal deck! What a PIA! If I push up from under the deck it only moves up at the center. $140.00 for the speakers so I thought I'd save money DIM.Any Ideas ? Thanks

Last edited by Aristomones; 12-23-2009 at 08:06 AM. Reason: gramatical error
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aristomones View Post
Hey Guys Artie in Az. I bought a pair of Infity 6x9's for my camaro and I removed every panel overlaping the rear deck panel to lift it off and it's not happening? The way it appears would seem that it would come right off!! I pulled all the clips off that I could find and it still will not come off. The speakers are sandwhiched between the plastic covering and the metal deck! What a PIA! If I push up from under the deck it only moves up at the center. $140.00 for the speakers so I thought I'd save money DIM.Any Ideas ? Thanks
Check out post #7 in this thread:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50813

It sounds like you are on step #8, which the OP described as "a big pain". I hope his description of the step helps you. I will be installing dynamat and replacing the door and rear speakers this weekend. I will provide an update when I am done.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:41 PM   #15
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Cool Rear PIA speakers

Well I tried but Failed a the final stage of trying to lift the rear deck off the metal support frame and it would only come up at the center of the deck!! I checked to make sure all clips, retainer clips etc. were free but to no avail it would not go! I made sure that the car seat harness loops on the deck cleard the holes but still no give! Not to mention scraping my hands and being in a tight closed in area, the back seat of a camaro for a total of 3hrs to, Whew!! So I returned the 6 by 9 infinity kappas speakers for the kicker 6 1/2 " door speakers Hopefully that will be a better experince. Artie
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Old 12-24-2009, 09:28 AM   #16
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Angry BA Bass??? Where is it????

Sooooo, my question is, why the HELL did Chevy build such an Awesome car, sure-to-be a collector/classic in the years to come, contract with Boston Acoustics for a premium sound, and make is turn out to completely SUCK?!?!?! That absolutely BLOWS MY MIND. In fact, I took my car back to the dealer a few days after delivery because I thought maybe the rear "subs" weren't even plugged in!! Talk about disappointment. I have a suspicion there was a major reason (i.e. $$$) why we had the "option" of purchasing severely overpriced MTX subs/amp when ordering the car: they KNEW the BA bass was non-existent, and they wanted you to spend the extra money. (BTW a car audio/tint shop here in town had the Exact same MTX speaker/amp combo in their shop for X-mas special of $299.) Why cheap-shot us like this when they did such an amazing job on the rest of the car??? Ok...well, maybe they cheaped us on the dash ABL but I'll save that rant for later lol. Yes, I'm throwing up the BS flag here. Oh well, I guess I'll go old school and do the d*mn speakers myself. Grrrrrrrrr *that's me growling at Chevy*
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Old 12-25-2009, 12:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyB View Post
Bass blockers are a good idea in some factory systems that send a full signal to the speakers. But, these filters will have no effect on the door speakers or front speaker in a BA system, because the Boston amp is already applying a high-pass filter to these outputs. The bass blocker would be trying to eliminate frequencies that are not present.

The rear deck speakers have separate wires for the tweeter and woofer. The tweeters already have a high-pass filter and the woofers have a low-pass filter. Adding bass blockers to the woofers would have about the same effect as un-plugging them, because only low frequencies are being passed from the amp, then if you block them, you essentially have little or nothing left.

If you are just adding a powered sub and not replacing the amp or other speakers, then it might be desirable to disable the 6x9 subs with bass blockers (or un-plugging them). This way you are replacing the crappy bass and not just adding better bass to it.

This still leaves one of the big problems with the BA system, which is no mid-range frequencies coming from the rear at all. There are only tweeters and subs. I think a well designed sub upgrade would also involve routing a new signal to the 6x9 speakers that includes mids, otherwise the 6x9s are wasted.
I beg to differ. I installed the bass blockers and it worked exactly like I wanted it to. Major cut down on the the bass in the doors and not it's not so muddy at higher volume. Yes, it works. Go grab a pair and try it yourself. You can always remove the blockers and reconnect your wires.

Oh, and I was never big on mid-range either.
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Old 12-27-2009, 12:03 AM   #18
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For anyone who is willing to DYI the door speakers: Word of advice is get speaker mounting adapters!! Because the standard 6 1/2" is too small by about 1/2" aprox. so you need an adapter to fill that gap. Or if there's a 6 3/4 that might work but in my case since I spent 2+ hours trying to figure how I'm going to get around this problem. I hate starting something then finding out I cant finish it other than looking to find some extra parts that may not even be avalible! I took the grill that came w/ the kicker spkrs and drilled holes lining up to the spkrs behind the door panel where the spkers face out. Then screwd the screws thru the face side of grilled panel w/ spkrs in place on the panel using screw fastners to hold the spkrs then popped the door panel back on the door! the only problem with this is you have to make sure you line up centerd on the spkr grill then use the spker grill covers that came with the new spkrs so you can cover the screws that show otherwise paint the screws black. Just an option if You like to DYI!! sorry for the long of it!
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Old 12-27-2009, 04:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAG UR IT View Post
I beg to differ. I installed the bass blockers and it worked exactly like I wanted it to. Major cut down on the the bass in the doors and not it's not so muddy at higher volume. Yes, it works. Go grab a pair and try it yourself. You can always remove the blockers and reconnect your wires.

Oh, and I was never big on mid-range either.
So, I read the entire thread again and found that you are using 300Hz bass blockers. These will indeed filter out more bass than the factory high-pass filter. I had (mistakenly) picked up the point in the thread where someone speculated that you were using 50Hz bass blockers.

For those who are not yet ready to upgrade the front speakers and amp, then installing bass blockers in the doors is a good interim solution. 200Hz-300Hz should be about right.
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Old 12-27-2009, 05:13 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aristomones View Post
For anyone who is willing to DYI the door speakers: Word of advice is get speaker mounting adapters!! Because the standard 6 1/2" is too small by about 1/2" aprox. so you need an adapter to fill that gap. Or if there's a 6 3/4 that might work but in my case since I spent 2+ hours trying to figure how I'm going to get around this problem. I hate starting something then finding out I cant finish it other than looking to find some extra parts that may not even be avalible! I took the grill that came w/ the kicker spkrs and drilled holes lining up to the spkrs behind the door panel where the spkers face out. Then screwd the screws thru the face side of grilled panel w/ spkrs in place on the panel using screw fastners to hold the spkrs then popped the door panel back on the door! the only problem with this is you have to make sure you line up centerd on the spkr grill then use the spker grill covers that came with the new spkrs so you can cover the screws that show otherwise paint the screws black. Just an option if You like to DYI!! sorry for the long of it!
Or you can do this:


I gutted the stock speaker and used it to mount the new Alpine 6.5". It looked very good until I added the weather stripping; which is ugly but serves a purpose. I used a Dremel to do this and it was very easy. Of course the factory speaker is ruined, but one could argue that paper-coned $3 piece of crap was ruined the day it was manufactured. While tearing the paper out, I felt like I was getting revenge for the weeks of torture to my ears. There are no speaker adapters available for the camaro yet and I would have just thrown the old speakers out in the trash, so this seemed like the best option. This mounts exactly like the factory speaker and the weather stripping mates to the inside of the door panel.
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:08 PM   #21
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Compared to the factory speakers? How does it sound?

cost of the new Alpines?

Did you add a separate amp for them?
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Old 01-06-2010, 12:16 AM   #22
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Quote:
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Compared to the factory speakers? How does it sound?

cost of the new Alpines?

Did you add a separate amp for them?
The Alpine speakers sound MUCH better than the factory BA speakers. I do not attribute this to the Alpine brand (not a fanboy), just the fact that the OEM speakers are cheap. I installed the Alpine Type-R SPR-17S which come with a 6.5", a 1" tweeter and a crossover network. The Boston Acoustics SR-60 or Polk Audio MM-6501 would be equivalent.

Any of the speakers I mentioned can be purchased between $140 and $200 on Amazon.

When I installed these, I first replaced one door so I could compare just the new speakers to the old. The sound was cleaner, but there was still distortion coming from the BA amp which is only pushing about 10-15 watts per channel. Then I installed an Alpine amp and compared both doors again. To be honest, this made a bigger difference than just replacing the speakers, but the stock BA speakers in the other door still sounded harsh; so I finished the 2nd door and I now have a much improved front soundstage.

I am using a 4-channel amp, with 1 channel for each door and the other 2 channels are bridged to power an Alpine sub in the trunk.
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Old 02-14-2010, 01:20 AM   #23
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Ok - first - please go easy on me - I am not a sterophile - my cousin and I are trying to install a sub and new front door and rear speakers in a 2010 Camaro.

My quesiton is this - the rear speakers we are installing sound like crap. They are infinity kappa series speakers. But there is only a single input on the speakers where the BA speakers that we pulled out had both the high and the low inputs - is the simple answer - "you just can't use the kappas?" Do I need to specifically find a speaker that has the dual high and low inputs?
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:38 AM   #24
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Hrm...good question. I wonder if the inputs are actually putting out different signal strengths. I wonder if you can just cut them and run them in line.

Heck...I don't konw.
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Old 08-25-2010, 03:30 PM   #25
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About the bass blockers, wouldnt reducing the bass levels from the HU and increasing the gain on the amp resolve this problem the same way?
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