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Old 04-08-2010, 01:05 PM   #15
CamaroCowboy

 
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thanks for the info I will be getting me some of those.
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:15 PM   #16
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Old 04-08-2010, 02:36 PM   #17
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just keep in mind that the ceramic pads will eat up your rotors faster. They are allot harder then normal pads, somethings GOT to wear, it will be rotors
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Old 04-08-2010, 02:59 PM   #18
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Are you guys turning the rotors or just swapping the pads?
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Taz_FL View Post
just keep in mind that the ceramic pads will eat up your rotors faster. They are allot harder then normal pads, somethings GOT to wear, it will be rotors
Actually, ceramics are kinder than ANY full metallic and most if not all semi-metallic pads. One of their best features outside of the reduction in dusting is being rotor friendly. I have used ceramics in all my bikes and cars and have NEVER had to replace a rotor due to pad scoring. I can't say that for metallic pads....
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:20 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 1977and2010 View Post
Are you guys turning the rotors or just swapping the pads?
That really depends on where you are in the pad life cycle. If you are more than half way thru the stockers, you may need to resurface to avoid issues. Check the rotors for sings of a lip developing at the outer edge of the rotors and for pad scoring on the face where the majority of the pad rides.

If you are low mileage, slam the new ones in and follow a proper bed-in procedure for new pads are you should be golden....

To bed-in new pads you need to find a road where you can make repeated stops without impeding anyone else or getting run over!

1. Make 3-5 stops from a speed of no more than 25mph using moderate brake pressure and avoid coming to a complete stop. Allowing the brakes to cool for a minute in between applications.

2. Allow a full cool down (15-20mins depending on weather temps) then repeat step 1 using speeds of 40 mph.

3. Allow a full cool down and repeat step 1 at 55 mph and allow a full cool down.

Sure it's a PITA but isn't everything?
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Old 04-08-2010, 08:15 PM   #21
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That really depends on where you are in the pad life cycle. If you are more than half way thru the stockers, you may need to resurface to avoid issues. Check the rotors for sings of a lip developing at the outer edge of the rotors and for pad scoring on the face where the majority of the pad rides.

If you are low mileage, slam the new ones in and follow a proper bed-in procedure for new pads are you should be golden....

To bed-in new pads you need to find a road where you can make repeated stops without impeding anyone else or getting run over!

1. Make 3-5 stops from a speed of no more than 25mph using moderate brake pressure and avoid coming to a complete stop. Allowing the brakes to cool for a minute in between applications.

2. Allow a full cool down (15-20mins depending on weather temps) then repeat step 1 using speeds of 40 mph.

3. Allow a full cool down and repeat step 1 at 55 mph and allow a full cool down.

Sure it's a PITA but isn't everything?
This has to be done first thing when installing them? The only road I can thnk of where I could do that is a couple miles out, not sure how I could get there without using the brakes.]


Also, how easy is it to install brake pads?
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Old 04-08-2010, 09:02 PM   #22
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This has to be done first thing when installing them? The only road I can thnk of where I could do that is a couple miles out, not sure how I could get there without using the brakes.]


Also, how easy is it to install brake pads?
The run there should be no biggie. The key factor is not to over use them when new and try to avoid stopping completely. If you have stop completely stay off the brakes when at a stop.

Changing the pads without a rotor resurface is about as easy as it is gonna get. A couple of retaining pins/clips on each caliper, gently pry the old pads back into the calipers (do one, insert new pad with silencer shim from OE pad & apply silencing grease if supplied, then do then next and so on), reinstall pins/retainer clips, pump up the brake pedal until firm, go break 'em in!!

As with anything safety related, if you have any doubts about doing it or lack the proper tools, it would be better to pay someone to do it. Even if they are milking the job it just can't take more than 45mins to an hour.
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Old 04-08-2010, 09:12 PM   #23
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The run there should be no biggie. The key factor is not to over use them when new and try to avoid stopping completely. If you have stop completely stay off the brakes when at a stop.

Changing the pads without a rotor resurface is about as easy as it is gonna get. A couple of retaining pins/clips on each caliper, gently pry the old pads back into the calipers (do one, insert new pad with silencer shim from OE pad & apply silencing grease if supplied, then do then next and so on), reinstall pins/retainer clips, pump up the brake pedal until firm, go break 'em in!!

As with anything safety related, if you have any doubts about doing it or lack the proper tools, it would be better to pay someone to do it. Even if they are milking the job it just can't take more than 45mins to an hour.

Awesome thank you. I am seeing that the ones from ECS are only like $130 so I'm thinking that I'll be able to go ahead and do this next.

Last edited by CamaroDreams07; 04-08-2010 at 09:14 PM. Reason: There are four wheels on my car...
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:36 PM   #24
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Looks like I'm calling AJ tomorrow. I'm doing a track day on May 8th, and I hate the brake dust on my rotors. The Hawk pads sound like a win - win.
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Old 04-26-2010, 04:18 PM   #25
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Awesome thank you. I am seeing that the ones from ECS are only like $130 so I'm thinking that I'll be able to go ahead and do this next.
$130 sounds like you're only buying the front pads.
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