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Old 05-04-2010, 02:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael_Js View Post
I like the Pfadt ones - they come with both new bushing sets - need a bushing tool to get the lower one out!

haven't taken her to the track yet - 5/17
Yes....it would probably be better to replace the factory lower bushing but from my understanding the flexing comes from the cheap, thin, pressed metal that the factory arms are made from more than the bushings. The Del-Sphere end does replace the upper TA bushing so you're only re-using the lower factory bushing.
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Old 05-04-2010, 05:59 PM   #16
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So what do you guys think should be done first?
diff bushing, rear sub frame, or trailing arms?
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Old 05-07-2010, 04:09 PM   #17
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Hey guys thank you for recommending our products. It just looks like the different manufacturers of rear trailing arms for the new Camaro have attacked it from different perspectives, thats all! Caverman obviously did some research and formed his own opinion as to what he felt would be best for his car and use. Naturally we want everyone to see the benefits our Pfadt products in particular but its great to see people making decisions this way! Not all products address every issue, and finding out which ones are important to you is a great way to go about it!

GQ4Life, it is our opinion that starting with the Rear Trailing Arms is a great idea. We have had many customers respond to us after installing our Pfadt arms that the wheel hop is gone. Others have had the same experience using our Rear Subframe Bushings. The Rear Subframe Bushings are a fantastic upgrade for many different reasons. But if your sole goal it to reduce wheel hop and have more controlled transfer of power to the ground, then trailing arms and diff bushings are where you want to start! Hope this helps guys!
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Old 05-07-2010, 04:27 PM   #18
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I'm going to try the Spohn's with the factory bushings. If I still have issues the bushings will be next.

I'm just trying to save up for some headers and a tune. Unfortunately my mod fund had to take a small hit for the TAs but the headers won't do me any good if I can't get the power to the ground.
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:51 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
Hey guys thank you for recommending our products. It just looks like the different manufacturers of rear trailing arms for the new Camaro have attacked it from different perspectives, thats all! Caverman obviously did some research and formed his own opinion as to what he felt would be best for his car and use. Naturally we want everyone to see the benefits our Pfadt products in particular but its great to see people making decisions this way! Not all products address every issue, and finding out which ones are important to you is a great way to go about it!

GQ4Life, it is our opinion that starting with the Rear Trailing Arms is a great idea. We have had many customers respond to us after installing our Pfadt arms that the wheel hop is gone. Others have had the same experience using our Rear Subframe Bushings. The Rear Subframe Bushings are a fantastic upgrade for many different reasons. But if your sole goal it to reduce wheel hop and have more controlled transfer of power to the ground, then trailing arms and diff bushings are where you want to start! Hope this helps guys!
Thank you for the answer. It helps alot. I got my excel mod sheet I have to go add this too LoL
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Old 05-08-2010, 01:58 PM   #20
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BMR makes the cheapest differential bushings. It is a three hour job to change these bushings. A BMR franchisee may have a tool to speed this up. I haven't changed mine because of labor cost. Do subframe bushings at the same time because subframe removal is probably required unless there is some special tool involved.

I did install the Pedder EP1200 subframe insert bushings and they did tighten things up. You can feel the expansion filler bumps a little more on a concrete road but it is no worse than my Nissan truck which rides pretty nice. I don't notice it on the Interstate or asphalt. These were $255.00 and pretty easy to put in. They fit above and below stock subframe bushings. I think this is worthwhile.

The EP1201 is a replacement bushing set for $462 and they even have an EP 1201HD set for $595.00. Both require removal of stock bushings. This is labor intensive. I think they make a tool that helps. These are recommended over 450 rwhp I believe. I am sure these will make the ride harsher.

I installed the BMR toe rods because it was easy but didn't really notice a difference in launch. The Spohn toe rods are adustable for toe adjustment on alignment. BMR makes an adjustable and non-adjustable toe rod.

After market lower control arms are coming out now. They may help more than upper toe rods. Stock control arms look pretty strong though.

I really don't have an issue with wheel hop with the 17" MT's. The Nitto drag radials will help control wheel hop probably more than anything else after the Trailing Arms. You can run them between 16 and 20 PSI to stop wheel hop. They will also improve 60 ft. more than any other add on and save the expensive stock street tire.

The 18"Z06 replica rims are pretty cheap and fit well. You can then run any brand drag radial. I can run a 1" shorter tire in front than back with no ABS issues. I assume same is true visa versa. Smaller the front tire the more weight savings where it counts. ABS keeps getting more sophisticated and you may even be able to get away with bigger difference in tire size.

It looked like the current, just shipped, GM High Tech Magazine test of Nitto NTO5R's ran a 18x9 front Z06 rim on the back with the NTO5R and stock rim and tire on front. This is probably a 2" tire height difference. I have been told the rear Z06 18x10.5 rim will also work but I would think the backspacing is awfully close to the back of the wheel well. (small spacer?)
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Old 05-08-2010, 03:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis View Post
BMR makes the cheapest differential bushings. It is a three hour job to change these bushings. A BMR franchisee may have a tool to speed this up. I haven't changed mine because of labor cost. Do subframe bushings at the same time because subframe removal is probably required unless there is some special tool involved.

I did install the Pedder EP1200 subframe insert bushings and they did tighten things up. You can feel the expansion filler bumps a little more on a concrete road but it is no worse than my Nissan truck which rides pretty nice. I don't notice it on the Interstate or asphalt. These were $255.00 and pretty easy to put in. They fit above and below stock subframe bushings. I think this is worthwhile.

The EP1201 is a replacement bushing set for $462 and they even have an EP 1201HD set for $595.00. Both require removal of stock bushings. This is labor intensive. I think they make a tool that helps. These are recommended over 450 rwhp I believe. I am sure these will make the ride harsher.

I installed the BMR toe rods because it was easy but didn't really notice a difference in launch. The Spohn toe rods are adustable for toe adjustment on alignment. BMR makes an adjustable and non-adjustable toe rod.

After market lower control arms are coming out now. They may help more than upper toe rods. Stock control arms look pretty strong though.

I really don't have an issue with wheel hop with the 17" MT's. The Nitto drag radials will help control wheel hop probably more than anything else after the Trailing Arms. You can run them between 16 and 20 PSI to stop wheel hop. They will also improve 60 ft. more than any other add on and save the expensive stock street tire.

The 18"Z06 replica rims are pretty cheap and fit well. You can then run any brand drag radial. I can run a 1" shorter tire in front than back with no ABS issues. I assume same is true visa versa. Smaller the front tire the more weight savings where it counts. ABS keeps getting more sophisticated and you may even be able to get away with bigger difference in tire size.

It looked like the current, just shipped, GM High Tech Magazine test of Nitto NTO5R's ran a 18x9 front Z06 rim on the back with the NTO5R and stock rim and tire on front. This is probably a 2" tire height difference. I have been told the rear Z06 18x10.5 rim will also work but I would think the backspacing is awfully close to the back of the wheel well. (small spacer?)
Thanks for the info....

Do you have a link for the Z06 replica wheels? I might consider those as well if I can't get things to hook up. I'm hoping to get back out to the track at the end of May or begining of June to see if all the tips that were given + the trailing arms help out. I have a feeling I'll do a lot better the next time. I'm also going to go practice the heel/toe launches in a big parking lot again.
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Old 05-10-2010, 12:39 PM   #22
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Thank you for the answer. It helps alot. I got my excel mod sheet I have to go add this too LoL
No worries! Glad to help.
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Old 05-10-2010, 12:52 PM   #23
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:39 PM   #24
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Thanks for all of the info Caverman, I just ordered the Tubular Rear Trailing Arms with Del-Sphere Pivot Joints in chrome-molly with the adjustment tool. I have raced the car one and had the wheel hop and can also see it at the end of my burnouts on the street. I will post more info after testing them out.
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Old 06-24-2010, 09:36 AM   #25
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While I haven't been to the strip yet, I have yet to experience wheel hop as far as I can tell. Depending on what RPMs I launch from, I either bog or spin the tires. I do my best to balance these two, but why am I not experiencing wheel hop on factory PZeros when so many others are? My best 60 ft time (according to the dynolicious iphone app) was 2.19s. Am I simply not launching hard enough yet to introduce wheel hop? And finally, given my situation, would my launches still benefit from these TAs even if my wheels are staying on the ground?
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Old 06-24-2010, 09:40 AM   #26
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I had JDP Motorsports install the SPOHN rear trailing arms on my SS. But I just did the first level Polyurethane arms. But I can tell you the car digs squats and launches a whole lot better now. Now I'm not taking it to a drag strip but on those wide open desolate roads I tend to try a couple burnouts here and there
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Old 06-24-2010, 09:48 AM   #27
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Thanks for all of the info Caverman, I just ordered the Tubular Rear Trailing Arms with Del-Sphere Pivot Joints in chrome-molly with the adjustment tool. I have raced the car one and had the wheel hop and can also see it at the end of my burnouts on the street. I will post more info after testing them out.
No problem....after watching the Del-Sphere video and seeing how they work I was SOLD. I've been very happy with them. The regular Del-Sphere are a little on the heavy side but not enough to make a real difference in my mind. I bet the chrome-molly ones will be awesome. Make sure to post pics when you get them.

BTW: some people suggest changing out the lower bushing of the wheel hub. I didn't do that but I might go back and do it at some point. You might consider doing it while you're there. I don't think Spohn has any poly bushings for it but I know Pfadt does. I think they sell for about $100. You might talk with Spohn and get their take on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Viral View Post
While I haven't been to the strip yet, I have yet to experience wheel hop as far as I can tell. Depending on what RPMs I launch from, I either bog or spin the tires. I do my best to balance these two, but why am I not experiencing wheel hop on factory PZeros when so many others are? My best 60 ft time (according to the dynolicious iphone app) was 2.19s. Am I simply not launching hard enough yet to introduce wheel hop? And finally, given my situation, would my launches still benefit from these TAs even if my wheels are staying on the ground?
I never had any wheel hop on the streets at all...only at the track. The track is a totally different animal. Give it a try some time without the TAs. Just make sure to let off if you start getting wheel hop so that you don't break something. Then if you do get the hop get some TAs and give it a try again so you can see the difference.

Personally I would at least put on the basic TA. They are pretty cheap and easy to put on with no alignment required. If you look at the difference from the factory TA to any of the aftermarket TA you'll know it can't do anything but help.
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:22 AM   #28
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I never had any wheel hop on the streets at all...only at the track. The track is a totally different animal.

Personally I would at least put on the basic TA. They are pretty cheap and easy to put on with no alignment required. If you look at the difference from the factory TA to any of the aftermarket TA you'll know it can't do anything but help.
Thanks for the info, that's good advice and exactly what I think I'll do. I had wondered if the track prep might contribute to just enough extra grip to promote wheel hop over the dust pebbles on normal roads. Ssooch, it's good to hear you can tell a difference even off the track also. That's what I was hoping to hear!

Thanks guys.
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