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Old 04-19-2010, 12:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotchkis View Post
We have worked on quite a few 5th Gens at our R&D center here in California, as well as on-site at Willow Springs during several track tests. With our Hotchkis springs and OE alignment capabilities, the vehicle can adjust camber from -0.4° to -2.6° for the front and -0.7° to -1.8° for the rear. No need to buy a kit or anything like that. For your situation where tire wear is important on a street driven car, we suggest the following alignment specs:

Front:
Camber: -0.75° to -1°
Toe: 1/16” total toe in

Rear:
Camber: -0.8°
Toe: 3/16” total toe in

Hope this helps!
Thanks.....

I have another question for you. One of the Pedders guys suggested the following about loosing the bolts, driving around slowly, and then re-tighten before alignment. It definately sounds logical....should I do this for the Hotchkis springs as well. Also, I'm assuming I won't need to cut the bumpstops?

Quote:
The most important step in installing lowering coils is to time the OE rotational bushes to the new ride height. EVERY control arm bolt must be loose: front LCA, front radius arm, rear toe, trailing, inner lower... With the bolts loose drive the Camaro SLOWY around the lot and on to the alignment rack rails. With the weightbof the car on the wheels tighten all the bolts. The bushes are now timed to your new ride height. This means your second set of springs the bushes are now working with your new Peddes lowering coils.
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:40 PM   #19
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It realy doesn't matter with who or how you lower your car,Loosing the control arm pivot bolts and retightening them with the wieght on the tires should be done.This is called timing the bushings,if not done the ride can be slightly stiffer and will cause the bushings to fail premature.This applies to the factory rubber bushings.Most aftermarket bushings piviot by design unlike the factory bushings.
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Old 04-20-2010, 03:58 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by raymo1 View Post
It realy doesn't matter with who or how you lower your car,Loosing the control arm pivot bolts and retightening them with the wieght on the tires should be done.This is called timing the bushings,if not done the ride can be slightly stiffer and will cause the bushings to fail premature.This applies to the factory rubber bushings.Most aftermarket bushings piviot by design unlike the factory bushings.
Thanks....it makes sense to do this.

By chance does anyone have a pic of the Control Arm Pivot bolts and any of the other bolt locations that should be loosened before alignment? I'm going to have the Alignment guy do it but since I don't know 100% which bolts need to be loosened I would like to see a pic so that I have a clue as I watch what he losens.
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
Thanks....it makes sense to do this.

By chance does anyone have a pic of the Control Arm Pivot bolts and any of the other bolt locations that should be loosened before alignment? I'm going to have the Alignment guy do it but since I don't know 100% which bolts need to be loosened I would like to see a pic so that I have a clue as I watch what he losens.
With the exception of the cradle bushings, if there is a bushing on it, you should loosen it. The biggest culpret is the upper rear control arm bushing, which is, of course, the hardest to get to.

mike
dms
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:19 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by dms View Post
With the exception of the cradle bushings, if there is a bushing on it, you should loosen it. The biggest culpret is the upper rear control arm bushing, which is, of course, the hardest to get to.

mike
dms
Ok....one more question on this. Does anyone know if the bolts need to be re-torqued to a specific number? Or...just have them get it as tight as they can and then re-check in a week or so?
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:38 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
Ok....one more question on this. Does anyone know if the bolts need to be re-torqued to a specific number? Or...just have them get it as tight as they can and then re-check in a week or so?
The predictable response will be all bolts need to be torqued to GM specs, and also review the 1 time bolt/nut policy by GM

mike
dms
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:40 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dms View Post
The predictable response will be all bolts need to be torqued to GM specs, and also review the 1 time bolt/nut policy by GM

mike
dms
Anyone know how I can find out what the GM torque specs should be on the different bolts?
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:52 PM   #25
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You need to confirm these torque measurements.



thanks
mike
dms
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dms View Post
does not actually affect the alignment that much but it can change the way the car handles. I.E. a split configured tire might look great, but the handling is reduced as compaired to having a oversized tires front and rear being equal.

What tires/tire size were you thinking of?

mike
dms
Took it to the dealer today for an alignment, 1" drop, 275/40 Pirelli's up front, 315/35 Nitti Invo's on the rear.
Gave them the recommendations from the site, street 75%/track 25% is what I was shooting for.
Front;
Camber -1.4
Caster 8.0
Toe 1/16" in

Rear;
Camber -0.9
Toe 1/16" in

When I picked it up, I see they got Camber and Toe very close to what I wanted, but Caster on the front is 6.0 with a note on the invoice saying caster is not adjustable. I thought that was just rear only on the non-adjustable caster.

Appreciate any input and whether I need to clarify the camber issue with the dealer.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:45 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Scourage View Post
Took it to the dealer today for an alignment, 1" drop, 275/40 Pirelli's up front, 315/35 Nitti Invo's on the rear.
Gave them the recommendations from the site, street 75%/track 25% is what I was shooting for.
Front;
Camber -1.4
Caster 8.0
Toe 1/16" in

Rear;
Camber -0.9
Toe 1/16" in

When I picked it up, I see they got Camber and Toe very close to what I wanted, but Caster on the front is 6.0 with a note on the invoice saying caster is not adjustable. I thought that was just rear only on the non-adjustable caster.

Appreciate any input and whether I need to clarify the camber issue with the dealer.
Caster is not adjustable on the front. But Pedders makes an eccentric that will make it adjustable and will add 1.0 to 1.25 degrees caster. It does require slotting the hole which will take about .5 to 1.0 hours to complete

Reducing your rear camber to 50% of the front will reduce your plowing when driven very aggressively. Also taking the front toe to .1 degrees toe out each wheel will make a positive affect as well.

There is a signficant thread or 2 on the caster eccentrics.

mike
dms
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:02 AM   #28
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Guess I missed that one. I've seen the threads on the eccentrics and was waiting to see what I could get done with the alignment first.
I know it feels a lot better than it did before the alignment.
I may have upset a few neighbors as I was driving around the round-about just down the road.

Looking at hitting the track for the first time this weekend.
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:09 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Scourage View Post
Guess I missed that one. I've seen the threads on the eccentrics and was waiting to see what I could get done with the alignment first.
I know it feels a lot better than it did before the alignment.
I may have upset a few neighbors as I was driving around the round-about just down the road.

Looking at hitting the track for the first time this weekend.
Drag or roadrace?

mike
dms
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:38 AM   #30
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Road and maybe some 1/8 mile.
http://www.midamericamotorplex.com/2006/default.asp
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:56 PM   #31
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anyone have specs for eibach pro plus kit?? a pm with them would be great!! thanks
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:32 PM   #32
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Need a little help. Put on Pfadt trailing arms. Also have there lowering spring and sway bars. Before I put on the trailing arms had the front end alignment without any problems. Now went back to the same dealers and they tell me that the passenger rear is out of alignment. They got the drivers rear in psec but cant get the passenger due to the eccentric bolt is all the way out. Does this make any sense?
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:41 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Ice View Post
Need a little help. Put on Pfadt trailing arms. Also have there lowering spring and sway bars. Before I put on the trailing arms had the front end alignment without any problems. Now went back to the same dealers and they tell me that the passenger rear is out of alignment. They got the drivers rear in psec but cant get the passenger due to the eccentric bolt is all the way out. Does this make any sense?

Yep, I could believe that. I had Eibach springs installed on 10/25/10 at Rodgers Chevrolet (thanks again Becky, Gerry and Joe). While reading some more about alignments tonight I went and got my print out to refresh myself on what I have vs. what others are reporting. My rear passenger side is within spec. -0.6. However, the drivers side was at -2.7 before they started the alignment. The best they could get was -1.8. I plan to leave it for now while I decide if I want any further changes to my suspension stuff.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:31 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
Hey everyone! This is a great idea to get a thread together with everyone's recommendations. Below is an image of a downloadable PDF on our website, with our recommendations for various alignment settings according to end-use. Please let us know if you have any questions at all!

Here is a link to the PDF: Alignment Settings



Ok, I hope to not sound dumb, but are these numbers for total Camber or are they for each side individually??



Thanks.
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