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Old 06-16-2010, 10:56 PM   #76
Michael_Js
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My local mechanic - RPMM - did a Great job installing the strut over my botched job! They cut off the rivnut, then welded closed the hole, and did a proper install. Pictures to follow - looks great! Can't even tell I botched it up
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2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; Subthump; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:15 AM   #77
Berean


 
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Good news Michael!

I'm looking forward to installing mine next week.


One other question for you. Did you use the rubber pads that came with the kit?
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Old 06-18-2010, 09:31 AM   #78
Michael_Js
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Not sure if they installed the pads or not. They are supposed to be installed from underneath - inside of the fender well. I doubt they did though...
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2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; Subthump; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:01 PM   #79
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Ok, got mine installed today.

Here are my observations/comments:

1. You're going to need a 1/2" chuck drill for the 17/32nds drill bit. I had a 3/8th chuck drill and had to buy a new drill before I could start the install.

2. This isn't a simple install. It's drilling and tightening bolt/rivnuts etc. which isn't hard, but you better take your time and make sure everything is lined up 100% and the rivnuts are set 100%. If not, the whole install isn't going to go well. I'd recommend getting someone to help you hold the brace, wrenches etc. if you want to make sure things are lined up as best as they can be. I had my wife help hold things in place and also hold a vacuum while I was drilling to help keep metal shavings from falling into the engine compartment.

3. The only problem I had was setting one of the rivnuts. I didn't get it set completely and it spun when I tried to tighten the bolt. I couldn't get the install tool back in either because it was spinning in place. I had to rig up the install tool with washers to get a tight fit, then tighten, remove a washer, tighten, etc. until I got the tool back down and could set the rivnut tighter to keep it from spinning. I almost couldn't get it and thought I'd have to pull the rivnut and start with a new one. I managed to get it set tighter though, so it worked out.

4. Don't over drill the 17/32nds hole. The rivnut may seem like it won't fit in the hole, but just tap it with a hammer. The one that I had trouble with the rivnut spinning, I think I may have drilled out the whole a little too much.

5. When marking your next drill spot, I found it was better to take a nail, put it through the brace, so that the nail is in the bolt hole of the brace, then make a circle with the nail around the bottom of the bolt hole on the strut tower. Pull the brace off, then make your drill punch in the middle of the circle. This worked out well for me and all my rivnuts lined up perfectly with the brace.

6. When you drill through the strut tower, you're going to hit another piece of sheet metal, which is your wheel well. You will have to drill through this as well ONLY on the drivers side rear. The other three holes should only be through the strut tower metal, and not have to go through the wheel well. That's how it worked out for me anyway, so I only have one hole to patch in the wheel well, instead of four.

7. After the rivnut is set, put the bolt in first without the brace, so that you can make sure it goes in as intended at the right angle and you don't strip the threads. I put a little WD-40 on the bolts also to make them turn easier when tightening the brace. The rivnut seems like it would be easy to strip the threads, so be careful.


I'm not sure why people have made comments in other threads about this brace being ugly looking. I think it looks great, and I'd bet because of the way it's designed, it the most structurally rigid of any of the braces out there, which is the main reason I went with the Pfadt brace.


So that's it. I think I could have installed it in about an hour but because I had problems with one of the rivnuts, it took me about two hours total.


I'm taking it out for a spin later today. I hope it tightens up the suspension quite a bit. I'll let you know.
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:21 PM   #80
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Berean, thank you so much for posting up with your install suggestions for customers and impressions. It is very much appreciated. We don't want to discourage people from installing these when we say that this is a race part. It requires drilling. As Berean has said, drilling isn't hard, but you have to be familiar with light-fabrication techniques to do it correctly.

Thanks again to Michael_Js and Berean for all of the support and working through the install of this brace.
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