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Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection Anything related to keeping your Camaro clean and in good cosmetic condition.

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Old 11-01-2010, 10:26 PM   #76
Viper595
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after reading everything junkman has posted, i hopped over to adam's polishes and am going to order all of my polish/wax/detailing supplies from there from now on. it's harder than hell to find decent products. THANK YOU JUNKMAN
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:45 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iomcamaro View Post
This is just my suggestion/opinion. I don't want anybody to say no that's crap. I'm just giving him an easier way to go if he isn't worried about everything. There are other people on here that like NXT 2.0 also. If you're not worried about sheen or shine. You could use OTC products besides the towels. You need Premium towels from Adam's or any other professional detail store. I would use Meg's Ultimate Compound by hand and follow it up with some Swirl-X. Or if you don't want to worry about the scratches or shine at all, just get you some NXT 2.0 Paste or liquid wax. It is really a sealant and last for a while and looks good. Paste wax last longer usually. That is what I use, and it is easy to put on and remove. I put two layers of NXT 2.0 on my car it is my DD. The sealant last me for about 4 to 5 months depending on the season. There is no since of spending all of that money if you're not worried about the shine imo. And you can always change your mind later on if you decide you want the shine and pick up a DA or something. This is just a suggestion that won't break the bank.
I think we'd all agree that liquid glass sealant isn't garbage. That's the sealant I used. While the paint seems sealed, I seem to get water spots on top of the sealant. The spots on the flat parts of my car has the distinct shapes of rain drops. The Dust/pollen/dirt it is caked into these 'water spots' thick. Amazingly I don't seem to have any white lime stains this time around.

Last edited by WhiteCrane; 11-03-2010 at 12:14 AM.
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:27 AM   #78
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I think we'd all agree that liquid glass sealant isn't garbage. That's the sealant I used. While the paint seems sealed, I seem to get water spots on top of the sealant. The spots on the flat parts of my car has the distinct shapes of rain drops. The Dust/pollen/dirt it is caked into these 'water spots' thick. Amazingly I don't seem to have any white lime stains this time around.
Here's the thing with any type of protection. If water spots are sticking to the finish and requiring more than soap and water to remove them, then the protection isn't working. I have allowed rain water, tap water and sprinkler water to sit on my car for a week trying to see if it would etch through my protection and the only thing I had to do is wash the car and all the spots disappeared. This is after they have baked in the sun for a week.

If your paint is protected and you still have a water spot issue, then either your protection is suspect or maybe it was not properly applied. Now bird poop is another animal but even that stuff hasn't been an issue for me.
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Old 11-03-2010, 10:07 AM   #79
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Here's the thing with any type of protection. If water spots are sticking to the finish and requiring more than soap and water to remove them, then the protection isn't working. I have allowed rain water, tap water and sprinkler water to sit on my car for a week trying to see if it would etch through my protection and the only thing I had to do is wash the car and all the spots disappeared. This is after they have baked in the sun for a week.

If you paint is protected and you still have a water spot issue, then either your protection is suspect or maybe it was not properly applied. Now bird poop is another animal but even that stuff hasn't been an issue for me.
Yeah, I've never had a problem with water spots, yet I read of them all the time on here. Protection is the key so many times in life
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:13 PM   #80
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Old 11-03-2010, 11:53 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
Here's the thing with any type of protection. If water spots are sticking to the finish and requiring more than soap and water to remove them, then the protection isn't working. I have allowed rain water, tap water and sprinkler water to sit on my car for a week trying to see if it would etch through my protection and the only thing I had to do is wash the car and all the spots disappeared. This is after they have baked in the sun for a week.

If your paint is protected and you still have a water spot issue, then either your protection is suspect or maybe it was not properly applied. Now bird poop is another animal but even that stuff hasn't been an issue for me.
Oh, I'm supposed to wash it? I thought I wouldn't get them in the first place. Would a runover with detail spray be okay instead?


Let's review my order: I made some small additions

2 grit guards

1 jumbo washpad

1 Adam's 16 OZ All Purpose Cleaner

1 Adam's 16 OZ Waterless Car Wash

2 Adam's Double Soft Premium Microfiber Towels

Adam's Hand Polish Combo - I doesn't seem right to ignore the polishing aspect.
16oz Detail SPray
16oz Swirl and HAze
16oz Revive Polish
1 Flip Polishing Pad

I just clayed my car. I don't need to clay it again.

This kit seems like a good value and a nice introduction to polishing I'd like to experiment with.

Buckets at Walmart

Now for the Sealant... put the guns down. I am strongly considering sticking with Liquid Glass. Soap and water is in fact all it takes to remove my water spots. I assumed that I simply wouldn't get spot with a sealant used, but Junkman has educated me. I don't know anything about detailing. I thought with a good sealant, dirt would not even get on the car to begin with. Woops.

Adam's doesn't have a sealant I can apply by hand. Adam's Americana Premium Paste Wax is Carnuba. Carnuba doesn't last long.

Last edited by WhiteCrane; 11-04-2010 at 12:31 AM.
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:09 AM   #82
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Here's what I would change about your order. Get a gallon and a 16 ounce bottle of Detail Spray. Trust me, you'll go through that stuff like water and thank me later. Also, here are some things that you need to know about working by hand.

Revive polish does not have as much cut as Fine Machine Polish (FMP) does. That's one of the reasons that I say your paint needs to be close to perfect if you are going to work by hand. Add to that the fact that the use of a PC is going to enhance your results 10-fold on some messed up paint and those reasons alone would make me go with a machine polishing kit. Also, Machine Superwax (MSW) can be applied by hand, it is just desgned to be applied by machine. If you look at the consistency of the product that you are using compared to MSW, you will see that MSW is much thicker. That works in your advantage in the form of protection. All sealants are not equal.

You can always upgrade and get the polisher and FMP later if you don't like the results that you get by hand. It's not like you'll need to buy a bunch of different stuff. You'll pretty much have everything you need already.
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:14 AM   #83
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Is this guy driving to work in the morning and useing his wiper/washers to defrost the ouitside of the windshield. if so, thats where your getting the spots and ruffness from.white lime spots sounds like washer fluid to me
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:18 AM   #84
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Is this guy driving to work in the morning and useing his wiper/washers to defrost the ouitside of the windshield. if so, thats where your getting the spots and ruffness from.white lime spots sounds like washer fluid to me
You totally lost me. What roughness are you talking about?
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:13 PM   #85
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I have no problem buying a buffer, but was always afraid of burning through my paint in the high spots or putting swirl marks on it or just doing something dumb when I wasn't totally paying attention, like a hot girl walking her dog or something......Can it go bad that fast???
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:51 PM   #86
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I have no problem buying a buffer, but was always afraid of burning through my paint in the high spots or putting swirl marks on it or just doing something dumb when I wasn't totally paying attention, like a hot girl walking her dog or something......Can it go bad that fast???
Did you watch my PC videos and see how I laid on my Corvette with the polisher? If so, why in the world do you think you could mess up your paint? If you could, do you think that I would let this little girl work on MY CAR? She's even buffing on an edge!

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Old 11-04-2010, 09:39 PM   #87
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I know you're giving me good advice Junkman. Another question. Adam's Waterless wash applied with soft plush microfiber towels, good or bad?

I have a feeling you'll tell me it's scratch-zilla.
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:02 AM   #88
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I know you're giving me good advice Junkman. Another question. Adam's Waterless wash applied with soft plush microfiber towels, good or bad?

I have a feeling you'll tell me it's scratch-zilla.
Have you watched my Waterless Wash video series which addresses this very question in detail?
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:30 PM   #89
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Great videos.

I am ready to order. Before I spend the money, I just want to know about hand polishing. I'm hearing some people say it takes 30 minutes per fender. Any truth in this?
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:36 PM   #90
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Great videos.

I am ready to order. Before I spend the money, I just want to know about hand polishing. I'm hearing some people say it takes 30 minutes per fender. Any truth in this?
It honestly depends on how you want your car to look. Hand polishing can only go so far, but using common sense the longer you go the better it will look to a point. You will never have flawless paint hand polishing.
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:13 PM   #91
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Can you post a photo of your car and your buddys car...say the hoods side by side so some of the pros in here can look at the paint. Not likely but it almost sounds like you have a chemical reaction going on. Are you in an area with an environmental exposure...smoke stack, chemical manufacturing? I have seen identical cars here in LA have a similar problem and we were next to a rendering plant!!!
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Old 11-10-2010, 01:54 AM   #92
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Great videos.

I am ready to order. Before I spend the money, I just want to know about hand polishing. I'm hearing some people say it takes 30 minutes per fender. Any truth in this?
Thirty minutes would be a miracle unless you started with darn near flawless paint. If you actually have swirl damage in your paint, 30 days per panel would be more accurate.

Quote:
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It honestly depends on how you want your car to look. Hand polishing can only go so far, but using common sense the longer you go the better it will look to a point. You will never have flawless paint hand polishing.


Quote:
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Can you post a photo of your car and your buddys car...say the hoods side by side so some of the pros in here can look at the paint. Not likely but it almost sounds like you have a chemical reaction going on. Are you in an area with an environmental exposure...smoke stack, chemical manufacturing? I have seen identical cars here in LA have a similar problem and we were next to a rendering plant!!!
A photo like that won't remotely show what needs to be seen. He would need to take an extreme close up of a piece of the hood so that you can actually see the condition of the paint. Anything further back than 12" is worthless. Check out this pic. I can not only see the condition of this paint (scratches and all), I can see the dust sitting on this paint. That's the kind of picture that would need to be taken.



That's why a 10' shot of a car is worthless when someone says look at how flawless their paint is. If you really want to see how flawless it is, you gotta stick your nose in it.
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Old 11-10-2010, 06:09 AM   #93
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