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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 12-01-2010, 11:49 PM   #26
dxy2jbaby
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denster View Post
I have an update.... first off, i noticed that mine will do the grinding going from 1st to 2nd, using about 1/2 gas pedal and shifting at 3500 rpm. if you shift quickly, it will grind every time.
I'm having this problem recently too . I thought i was shifting too fast but i didn't . I tired going slow motion for few times. It still does it , i was like wtf.....
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:10 AM   #27
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It is so important that everyone on this page and on this site that are having this problem to go to your dealer and report the problem. I have been working with my dealer and with GM and they say this is the first they have heard of this problem.
If you are having this problem, then report it.
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:42 AM   #28
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The Dodges that are running the TR6060's have the same issues we have. It's not only a GM problem.
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:03 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by denster View Post
It is so important that everyone on this page and on this site that are having this problem to go to your dealer and report the problem. I have been working with my dealer and with GM and they say this is the first they have heard of this problem.
If you are having this problem, then report it.

Been there done that, the most common excuse I hear is "operating as designed" "can't duplicate the customers concern" and when I have asked to take a tech for a ride to duplicate the problem the answer has always been no followed by a B.S. reason why! So I guess I have to wait for this P.O.S. to explode before anything is fixed, truly love the car but the quality of it totally SUCKS! I've had nothing but problem after problem, and for those that got a good one I'm very happy you don't have to go through the crap me and some others have, been fighting since April 2010 to get my problems resolved and looks like no end in sight, and these stupid a$$, non-American customer care people that can barely speak english are no help at all either, sorry just pisses me off!
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Old 12-03-2010, 12:16 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by autobotaz View Post
Mine started doing this between around 4500 miles. I also noticed some noise when when pushing the clutch in especially at low speed, like the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. I took a look at my clutch fluid and it was black. I suctioned the black stuff out and replaced with GM Super DOT4 fluid and I have not had any problems since and the noise when pushing in the clutch is gone.
I think people should take a closer look at what you found with your car... the clutch not disengaging was/is a common problem with 03/04 Cobras (along with the high rpm shift and grind) so most owners eventually go with an aftermarket adjustment setup.
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:49 AM   #31
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Ok, so get this.... I took the car to the dealer, and I described how it grinds from 1st to 2nd at 3500 rpms, and about 1/4 gas pedal. he took it for a drive and shifted at about 1500 to 2000 rpms. Can you believe that he had the nerve to tell me that I should not be shifting at 3500 rpms, and that was beating on the car. I explained that the redline on this car was 6500. He also told me that I shift too fast and I should be pausing once I have the pedal pressed in before I move the stick shift. I also pointed out to him that he stalled it out 3 times before leaving the parking lot, and that he was the one who is not familiar with driving a stick shift. I told him it is a camaro, not a kia and that 3500 rpm is not considered high. While he was driving it, it also did the grinding. He told me it was because he had accidentally shifted improperly. He told me that it's not a race car and the problem with the grinding is user error. He said I'm not driving it properly. I told him I don't recall seeing anywhere in the GM manual that says you have to pause inbetween shifts, or that GM recommends shifting at 2000 rpm.
Un F*&%ing believable! I think people like him should not be working for gm and should not be representing them.

Last edited by denster; 12-03-2010 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 12-03-2010, 01:16 PM   #32
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This kind of stuff just gets my blood boiling! People like him should not be doing a customer service job because he obviously isn't a good listener! He has a predetermined opinion about everyone that we are all just morons that don't know anything about a car! When I brought mine in for notchy 3rd gear, for the 3rd time, I described the problem with my "service advisor" and I had to clearify 4 times as he was writing up the work order! Then he finally agreed to a test drive and I soon learned that HE had no clue! He admitted being a "rooky" at driving a "stick" and he was short shifting and just being a ***** shifting. Of course he only "felt it maybe 1 time but it may have been my shifting"...WTF! At least he did make a note of it but the technician reported "no trouble found"! Hire some proffessionals to be service advisors rather than some punk off the streets! This is just an insult to our intelligence! These are real problems that we're experiencing, what's i gonna take to get GM to listen???
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:24 PM   #33
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I have something along these lines. It doesn't grind usually when i put it into second but it is sometimes difficult to put it into second. sometimes it doesn't go in because its being difficult and then it grinds but as soon as i muscle it into 2nd it doesn't grind.

Also, third is pretty notchy and not smooth to shift into.
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:47 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denster View Post
Ok, so get this.... I took the car to the dealer, and I described how it grinds from 1st to 2nd at 3500 rpms, and about 1/4 gas pedal. he took it for a drive and shifted at about 1500 to 2000 rpms. Can you believe that he had the nerve to tell me that I should not be shifting at 3500 rpms, and that was beating on the car. I explained that the redline on this car was 6500. He also told me that I shift too fast and I should be pausing once I have the pedal pressed in before I move the stick shift. I also pointed out to him that he stalled it out 3 times before leaving the parking lot, and that he was the one who is not familiar with driving a stick shift. I told him it is a camaro, not a kia and that 3500 rpm is not considered high. While he was driving it, it also did the grinding. He told me it was because he had accidentally shifted improperly. He told me that it's not a race car and the problem with the grinding is user error. He said I'm not driving it properly. I told him I don't recall seeing anywhere in the GM manual that says you have to pause inbetween shifts, or that GM recommends shifting at 2000 rpm.
Un F*&%ing believable! I think people like him should not be working for gm and should not be representing them.

Just gotta love the B.S. don't ya! I was told anything over 60mph was aggressive, so what do you do when the speed limit is 70mph, get run over? I was also told that Im not suppose to downshift to 1st(grinds) till I completely stop! Well thats funny seeing how my manual says 40mph and under, don't GM teach these people anything?
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Old 12-08-2010, 11:53 AM   #35
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well i took it to a different dealer and they noticed the problem immediately. they took it in the shop and are currently working with GM to fix it. they said they're gonna change either the synchronizers, or the entire trans. i'm not sure yet. The one thing that I don't understand is since my car only had 1600 miles on it, you would think my synchronizers were new already. I don't see what the difference would be of putting new ones in. Are there any transmission experts that could explain. No guesses, only qualified manual transmission experts please.
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Old 12-08-2010, 12:21 PM   #36
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From what I have read it's all about tollerance. Some Tremecs are tighter than others. GM must have a loose spec on thier syncro tolerances for the assembly proccess. I've also heard that some guys are having their mechanics make adjustments to the syncros. Of course that would not be a warranty repair. I would ask the dealer doing your work to make sure the tolerances of the replacement syncros are dead nuts in the center of the spec, if they can! Hope this helps, and I'm glad you found a dealership to help you out!
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Old 12-08-2010, 12:46 PM   #37
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interesting. I just recently spoke to someone about this also and they stated that the replacement synchros may have a taper that the factory ones didn't.
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Old 12-10-2010, 03:46 AM   #38
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I have been having the same issues as all of you.

1. Grinds 1st to 2nd at higher RPM's
2. Tried a new shifter (Hurst), got no better, maybe worse. Probably cause it shifts even faster.
3. Change the fluild to Mobile Syn. No improvement.
4. Noticed that is happens alot more when tranny temp is colder. Above 75-80F, nearly goes away.
5. I can get it to do in the garage too.

In the garage, I notice that if I go from neutral ALMOST into 1st. (just to the point of resistance) and hold it there. Then pull back into second really quick it will grind. No clutch involved at all. Pedal to the floor, car at idle.
Now, let me say that again. I get the exact same grind, from 1st to 2nd, if I push the clutch tothe floor, just nearly push it into 1st, hold or a couple of seconds, and pull back into 2nd (as if speed shifting), and it will grind. Car is at 500-700 RPM the whole time, clutch is on the floor, the whole time. Give it a little gas (say 2-3K RPM) and it will grind like speed shifting at 6K.

Someone else try this and see what results you get. PM me or post here.

This is why I know it is the syncro's: RPM, clutch are not involved in this test. Syncro's are not match gear speeds quick enough for these gears. That is why slowing down your shift fixes the situation. I do believe that the tappered syncro's could be the cure for this.

I think what is happening in the garage is: The syncro's are matching speed to first gear (just at the edge of the entry gate), and when you are pulling into 2nd really quick, there is not enough time for the 2nd gear syncro to make gear speed.

The temperature thing: The viscosity of the tranny fluild is lower thus allowing the bearings and thus the gears to react faster.
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Last edited by RipperFox; 12-11-2010 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:23 AM   #39
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Very interesting! I'd like to try that on my car but the throttle body is off waiting for the CNC porting! I'll try it as soon as I can. In the mean time hopefully some other guys can try it! Good observation and I agree that it points to a syncro problem!
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:22 PM   #40
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the dealership called me and said they replaced the transmission and put a brand new one in. They said they tested it and the problem does not occur. I will be picking it up tomorrow, so hopefully they are correct.
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:26 AM   #41
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Hey guys, add me to the list. I'm having a serious problem with this also. Just e-mailed my dealership and we'll see what happens. My car has about 500 miles on it and I have been unable to quick shift into 2nd without grinding. I have the factory Hurst installed. In my other car I have grinded maybe twice in 100K, and already over 5 times in my camaro.....I wanted to attribute it to driver error, but after that many times I have to start blaming the car. I will post updates as I figure things out
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:39 AM   #42
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1,2 and 3 gear syncros are not carbon fiber, 4 5 and 6 are. Most likely cause is that the non carbon fiber syncros are not working properly when quasi power shifting. When upgrading syncros make sure to use the carbon fiber or the same result will happen soon.
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:47 AM   #43
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The only problem with that suggestion 2010 ss rs, is that you don't get to tell the dealership what to put in when the work is being done under the factory warranty.
I'll be picking my car up today in about an hour or so. I did talk to the mechanic, and he said before he replaced my transmission, he was able to get it to grind when shifting quickly from 1st to 2nd, at about 2500 rpm. He said now that he put a new tranny in, he can shift at any rpm and it does not grind any longer.
I'll comment back here after i get to try it myself.
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:56 AM   #44
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same exact thing has been happening to me from day 1.

its going to be hard to get a local dealer to treat me good because i got my car from scotty in WI

there are 4 chevy dealers in my area looks like ill be calling them all today.
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:59 AM   #45
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Exactly the problem I had 6bloodychuncks. Read my post above from '12-03-2010, 12:49 PM'. I have also been working with GM on this one and I reported that dealer as well. If you're getting resistance from that dealership then I would recommend contacting GM for sure. It's probably not a bad idea for anyone having this problem to report it to GM. They need to be made more aware of this problem.
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Old 12-15-2010, 07:24 AM   #46
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denster, any word on how the fix went for you?
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Old 12-15-2010, 07:43 AM   #47
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Well the problem seems to have gone away, however there are a few strange observations I made. First off, the new transmission seems a little less smooth going through the gears as opposed to the one that was in the car when it was brand new. The second strange observance is that the clutch pedal is so much easier to press down than it used to be. I have a call in to the mechanic that worked on it to ask his opinion why this could be. I'm wondering if they changed the pressure plate or maybe even forgot a return spring on the pedal or something. Not sure, but it doesn't seem to be a problem, just an observance.
I haven't really got on it yet at high rpm, because I was giving it a chance to break in a bit, but the grinding I used to get shifting at 2500 or 3500 appears to have gone away.
So the question is, was it the transmission that was bad, or something in the setup. What if everyone's problems are caused becuase the clutch slave cylinder isn't disengaging the clutch completly? You know, this would cause the same effect. Maybe just messing with it and re-installing it was the key?
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:14 PM   #48
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just took my car out. was able to get it to grind anywhere from 3k-4k, didn't go over that. The clutch was definitely all the way in....urgh. Can't get to the dealership until this weekend or next week at best, I will post updates as I go through the process.
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Old 12-22-2010, 01:13 PM   #49
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Exactly the problem I had 6bloodychuncks. Read my post above from '12-03-2010, 12:49 PM'. I have also been working with GM on this one and I reported that dealer as well. If you're getting resistance from that dealership then I would recommend contacting GM for sure. It's probably not a bad idea for anyone having this problem to report it to GM. They need to be made more aware of this problem.
And who are you contacting at gm for dealer problems? I have been on the phone with gm since april over car/dealership problems and customer care does not care, they love to side with dealerships. It took a personal favor for me to get any help and now Im dealing with the executive offices to get my p.o.s. fixed.
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Old 12-23-2010, 04:50 PM   #50
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nope^^^only if its ****ed already ,,,loook for your clutch to get stuck very soon..and drop the fluid SALVE CYNLINDER ACTUATOR about to go out on yours...trust
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