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Old 12-08-2010, 12:53 PM   #35
denster
 
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well i took it to a different dealer and they noticed the problem immediately. they took it in the shop and are currently working with GM to fix it. they said they're gonna change either the synchronizers, or the entire trans. i'm not sure yet. The one thing that I don't understand is since my car only had 1600 miles on it, you would think my synchronizers were new already. I don't see what the difference would be of putting new ones in. Are there any transmission experts that could explain. No guesses, only qualified manual transmission experts please.
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Old 12-08-2010, 01:21 PM   #36
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From what I have read it's all about tollerance. Some Tremecs are tighter than others. GM must have a loose spec on thier syncro tolerances for the assembly proccess. I've also heard that some guys are having their mechanics make adjustments to the syncros. Of course that would not be a warranty repair. I would ask the dealer doing your work to make sure the tolerances of the replacement syncros are dead nuts in the center of the spec, if they can! Hope this helps, and I'm glad you found a dealership to help you out!
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Old 12-08-2010, 01:46 PM   #37
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interesting. I just recently spoke to someone about this also and they stated that the replacement synchros may have a taper that the factory ones didn't.
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:46 AM   #38
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I have been having the same issues as all of you.

1. Grinds 1st to 2nd at higher RPM's
2. Tried a new shifter (Hurst), got no better, maybe worse. Probably cause it shifts even faster.
3. Change the fluild to Mobile Syn. No improvement.
4. Noticed that is happens alot more when tranny temp is colder. Above 75-80F, nearly goes away.
5. I can get it to do in the garage too.

In the garage, I notice that if I go from neutral ALMOST into 1st. (just to the point of resistance) and hold it there. Then pull back into second really quick it will grind. No clutch involved at all. Pedal to the floor, car at idle.
Now, let me say that again. I get the exact same grind, from 1st to 2nd, if I push the clutch tothe floor, just nearly push it into 1st, hold or a couple of seconds, and pull back into 2nd (as if speed shifting), and it will grind. Car is at 500-700 RPM the whole time, clutch is on the floor, the whole time. Give it a little gas (say 2-3K RPM) and it will grind like speed shifting at 6K.

Someone else try this and see what results you get. PM me or post here.

This is why I know it is the syncro's: RPM, clutch are not involved in this test. Syncro's are not match gear speeds quick enough for these gears. That is why slowing down your shift fixes the situation. I do believe that the tappered syncro's could be the cure for this.

I think what is happening in the garage is: The syncro's are matching speed to first gear (just at the edge of the entry gate), and when you are pulling into 2nd really quick, there is not enough time for the 2nd gear syncro to make gear speed.

The temperature thing: The viscosity of the tranny fluild is lower thus allowing the bearings and thus the gears to react faster.
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Last edited by RipperFox; 12-11-2010 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:23 AM   #39
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Very interesting! I'd like to try that on my car but the throttle body is off waiting for the CNC porting! I'll try it as soon as I can. In the mean time hopefully some other guys can try it! Good observation and I agree that it points to a syncro problem!
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Old 12-12-2010, 07:22 PM   #40
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the dealership called me and said they replaced the transmission and put a brand new one in. They said they tested it and the problem does not occur. I will be picking it up tomorrow, so hopefully they are correct.
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:26 AM   #41
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Hey guys, add me to the list. I'm having a serious problem with this also. Just e-mailed my dealership and we'll see what happens. My car has about 500 miles on it and I have been unable to quick shift into 2nd without grinding. I have the factory Hurst installed. In my other car I have grinded maybe twice in 100K, and already over 5 times in my camaro.....I wanted to attribute it to driver error, but after that many times I have to start blaming the car. I will post updates as I figure things out
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:39 AM   #42
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1,2 and 3 gear syncros are not carbon fiber, 4 5 and 6 are. Most likely cause is that the non carbon fiber syncros are not working properly when quasi power shifting. When upgrading syncros make sure to use the carbon fiber or the same result will happen soon.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:47 AM   #43
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The only problem with that suggestion 2010 ss rs, is that you don't get to tell the dealership what to put in when the work is being done under the factory warranty.
I'll be picking my car up today in about an hour or so. I did talk to the mechanic, and he said before he replaced my transmission, he was able to get it to grind when shifting quickly from 1st to 2nd, at about 2500 rpm. He said now that he put a new tranny in, he can shift at any rpm and it does not grind any longer.
I'll comment back here after i get to try it myself.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:56 AM   #44
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same exact thing has been happening to me from day 1.

its going to be hard to get a local dealer to treat me good because i got my car from scotty in WI

there are 4 chevy dealers in my area looks like ill be calling them all today.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:59 AM   #45
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Exactly the problem I had 6bloodychuncks. Read my post above from '12-03-2010, 12:49 PM'. I have also been working with GM on this one and I reported that dealer as well. If you're getting resistance from that dealership then I would recommend contacting GM for sure. It's probably not a bad idea for anyone having this problem to report it to GM. They need to be made more aware of this problem.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:24 AM   #46
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denster, any word on how the fix went for you?
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:43 AM   #47
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Well the problem seems to have gone away, however there are a few strange observations I made. First off, the new transmission seems a little less smooth going through the gears as opposed to the one that was in the car when it was brand new. The second strange observance is that the clutch pedal is so much easier to press down than it used to be. I have a call in to the mechanic that worked on it to ask his opinion why this could be. I'm wondering if they changed the pressure plate or maybe even forgot a return spring on the pedal or something. Not sure, but it doesn't seem to be a problem, just an observance.
I haven't really got on it yet at high rpm, because I was giving it a chance to break in a bit, but the grinding I used to get shifting at 2500 or 3500 appears to have gone away.
So the question is, was it the transmission that was bad, or something in the setup. What if everyone's problems are caused becuase the clutch slave cylinder isn't disengaging the clutch completly? You know, this would cause the same effect. Maybe just messing with it and re-installing it was the key?
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Old 12-15-2010, 07:14 PM   #48
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just took my car out. was able to get it to grind anywhere from 3k-4k, didn't go over that. The clutch was definitely all the way in....urgh. Can't get to the dealership until this weekend or next week at best, I will post updates as I go through the process.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:13 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denster View Post
Exactly the problem I had 6bloodychuncks. Read my post above from '12-03-2010, 12:49 PM'. I have also been working with GM on this one and I reported that dealer as well. If you're getting resistance from that dealership then I would recommend contacting GM for sure. It's probably not a bad idea for anyone having this problem to report it to GM. They need to be made more aware of this problem.
And who are you contacting at gm for dealer problems? I have been on the phone with gm since april over car/dealership problems and customer care does not care, they love to side with dealerships. It took a personal favor for me to get any help and now Im dealing with the executive offices to get my p.o.s. fixed.
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:50 PM   #50
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nope^^^only if its ****ed already ,,,loook for your clutch to get stuck very soon..and drop the fluid SALVE CYNLINDER ACTUATOR about to go out on yours...trust
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:48 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RipperFox View Post
I have been having the same issues as all of you.

1. Grinds 1st to 2nd at higher RPM's
2. Tried a new shifter (Hurst), got no better, maybe worse. Probably cause it shifts even faster.
3. Change the fluild to Mobile Syn. No improvement.
4. Noticed that is happens alot more when tranny temp is colder. Above 75-80F, nearly goes away.
5. I can get it to do in the garage too.

In the garage, I notice that if I go from neutral ALMOST into 1st. (just to the point of resistance) and hold it there. Then pull back into second really quick it will grind. No clutch involved at all. Pedal to the floor, car at idle.
Now, let me say that again. I get the exact same grind, from 1st to 2nd, if I push the clutch tothe floor, just nearly push it into 1st, hold or a couple of seconds, and pull back into 2nd (as if speed shifting), and it will grind. Car is at 500-700 RPM the whole time, clutch is on the floor, the whole time. Give it a little gas (say 2-3K RPM) and it will grind like speed shifting at 6K.

Someone else try this and see what results you get. PM me or post here.

This is why I know it is the syncro's: RPM, clutch are not involved in this test. Syncro's are not match gear speeds quick enough for these gears. That is why slowing down your shift fixes the situation. I do believe that the tappered syncro's could be the cure for this.

I think what is happening in the garage is: The syncro's are matching speed to first gear (just at the edge of the entry gate), and when you are pulling into 2nd really quick, there is not enough time for the 2nd gear syncro to make gear speed.

The temperature thing: The viscosity of the tranny fluild is lower thus allowing the bearings and thus the gears to react faster.
Are you saying you have the engine running, clutch pedal to the floor and shifting from 1st to 2nd WHILE you have the clutch pedal to the floor and it grinds? While the vehicle is stationary? If this is what you're stating, then it's your clutch and not the transmission. When you have the clutch pedal to the floor, the input shaft of the transmission should be stopped (unless the clutch is dragging) so all the internal parts of the transmission should NOT be turning. If you hear it grinding that mean the internal parts are STILL moving.
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