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Old 01-16-2011, 03:55 PM   #800
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Does P0650 reset if you clear it and then restart and run the engine a couple times?

Is the check engine light working? With those 3 codes it should be on. It should also do a bulb check at first key on.

That MIL code means either there is a problem in the circuit to the MIL lamp, or an ECM problem.

If P0650 comes back after clearing, I think that's the key to whatever is wrong.
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:02 PM   #801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huggerorange73 View Post
Damn, you guys made me drag out all my notes and books from my classes I took

When a car is started, the computer is in open loop until certain criteria is met. The o2 sensors need to be heated to work properly, so this is the main reason there is a delay.

After the sensors are heated up, the car goes into closed loop and the O2 sensors make their corrections.

The computer will go back into open loop under a variety of conditions. Throttle Position (TP) is one way.

There are parameters in the computer that determine what the TP is for Open Loop, and other things.

When that TP is reached, and the car goes open loop, and richens up.


In closed loop fueling, the computer takes readings from the oxygen sensors which read +/- of 14.64 AFR (Stoich) and makes corrections for it. If your car is idling @ 13.5 AFR, the 02s can see this, and will know to pull out enough fuel to get back to stoich.

In open loop, the fueling is purely based off the MAF transfer function and the open loop fuel table. This table has to be calibrated any time you make MAF changes, and changes that affect the airflow of the MAF.

With that being said.....as long as the 02 sensors are warm, he's in the loop..given the fact they are heated, it's likely the car is in fact in closed loop.
ok, gotcha now

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Sometimes when you buy stuff from ted, he will give you a free tune!!!!! Maybe give him a call and see what he has to get you going......kinda like buying a tune and getting a free toy!
he didn't buy it from Ted - it was one of Ted's customers

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Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
That almost sounds like the MAF isn't reading the airflow. I've worked on a few cars that knocked like crazy off idle, and they turned out to be bad MAFs. On some cars you can turn the key off, unplug the MAF, then restart the engine. And if it idles perfectly with the MAF unplugged, something is wrong with the MAF or wiring. The ECM will use a default value if the MAF is unplugged. I've never tried that on a Camaro, but it has worked on every other car I've suspected a bad MAF.

The arrow on the MAF is pointing toward the engine? It can go in backwards.
is the MAF in a different location than stock with the Fastlane? that could also be throwing off the canned Maggie tune

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Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
Seems though - if the actuator was opened, stock injectors, and OE tune it should idle normally if nothing else was wrong.
actuator is now tied open, using the bigger injectors, and the OE tune wouldn't be that great with that huge intake & catless LTs

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Originally Posted by camaro1 View Post
have you even invested in a scan tool yet,, pick one up at your local parts store,, at least one that has live data,, it will at least give you the basics of what is going on

look at your LTFT and STFT (long and short term fuel trims) and see what they are doing,, this will tell you alot!!

what did you use to extend your map sensor harness to the rear of the supercharger intake, did you use your original map sensor from your intake manifold or was there a map already installed on the supercharger, and is it also reading correct on the scan tool. and is the small vacuum port plugged on the back of the supercharger by the map sensor
the SCT acts as a scan tool, if i remember right
the boost gauge port is plugged for now
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:36 PM   #802
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They only turned the rear O2 sensors off right? I thought I read that earlier. The fronts have to remain on in order to work. the multiple cylinder misfire is common on SC applications and can be turned off by your tuner. The lean sensor is the one that is the problem. Once you finally get your car to a tuner then it is probalby only 15 min away from running the way you want. Crazy that there are none in your area but I would not just go to the closest and available guy out there. The tuning is so vital to the safety of your engine and must be done by someone with a good rep. Even if it means you have to load it up and drive to get to one. It will be worth it and mean fewer problems down the road. I went thru two months while building mine so I totally know the frustration and brain thoughts you must be having. But it will be worth it.
Just waiting to find a tuner and get a trailer and truck. Gotta know where I"m taking it and when.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
Does P0650 reset if you clear it and then restart and run the engine a couple times?

Is the check engine light working? With those 3 codes it should be on. It should also do a bulb check at first key on.

That MIL code means either there is a problem in the circuit to the MIL lamp, or an ECM problem.

If P0650 comes back after clearing, I think that's the key to whatever is wrong.
I'll clear it for now just for the hell of it.

I'm just in waiting mode now till a tuner can get ahold of it.










Anyone know where I can get one of these? I'll call Magnuson and order one but I was hoping to get one locally. Went to 2 different Orileis, an Auto Zone, Car Quest, Advanced auto, and and a couple others today. Nobody even knows what the hell I'm talking about.

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Old 01-16-2011, 05:46 PM   #803
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Originally Posted by PQ View Post
Just waiting to find a tuner and get a trailer and truck. Gotta know where I"m taking it and when.

I'll clear it for now just for the hell of it.

I'm just in waiting mode now till a tuner can get ahold of it.

Anyone know where I can get one of these? I'll call Magnuson and order one but I was hoping to get one locally. Went to 2 different Orileis, an Auto Zone, Car Quest, Advanced auto, and and a couple others today. Nobody even knows what the hell I'm talking about.

Attachment 198940
Man, this is turning out to be a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong mod install...
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:46 PM   #804
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If you're trying to block off that port, you'll need a 1/8" pipe plug, I think. I think you could use that port for a fuel pressure gauge, too. If you're pointing to that whole block, then, then, no you're not going to find it locally. It's a custom piece made for the Magnuson fuel rails.
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:54 PM   #805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KILLER74Z28 View Post
Man, this is turning out to be a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong mod install...


It's just the tune. I underestimated my mods not working with the stock Maggie tune.

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If you're trying to block off that port, you'll need a 1/8" pipe plug, I think. I think you could use that port for a fuel pressure gauge, too. If you're pointing to that whole block, then, then, no you're not going to find it locally. It's a custom piece made for the Magnuson fuel rails.
I have the plug. I took it out to match the theads, but the schrader type valve that goes on it is what the fuel pressure gauge hooks to. I have a new gauge, but need the valve to fit it to. Just the valve. Not the whole braket.
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:10 PM   #806
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Can you take the schrader valve off your stock rails?
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:17 PM   #807
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Can you take the schrader valve off your stock rails?
Nope. It's not removeable.
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:45 PM   #808
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PQ, does Your FP gauge sending unit have a male end? What brand is it? I may have some fittings laying around from a previous build that could make it work.

Jed
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:00 PM   #809
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PQ, does Your FP gauge sending unit have a male end? What brand is it? I may have some fittings laying around from a previous build that could make it work.

Jed
Bought this one.

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16174

It doesn't have the male end I need to go into the fuel rail.
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:11 PM   #810
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Bought this one.

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16174

It doesn't have the male end I need to go into the fuel rail.
Damn. If I knew exactly how that FP tester tied in I could do some searching on summitracing and find the fittings that you would need.
I'm still trying to find the schrader valves that screw into 1/8"NPT. Isn't that what you would need?
I think Chevy's schrader valve size is -4an if that helps. I'll look some more tommorow and I'm sorry If none of this helps.

Jed
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:27 PM   #811
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Damn. If I knew exactly how that FP tester tied in I could do some searching on summitracing and find the fittings that you would need.
I'm still trying to find the schrader valves that screw into 1/8"NPT. Isn't that what you would need?
I think Chevy's schrader valve size is -4an if that helps. I'll look some more tommorow and I'm sorry If none of this helps.

Jed
No sweat. Basically it looks like a fat tire valve. The stock Camaros all have one on the end of the drivers side fuel rail. It's just not removeable. The end of the tester hose just screws onto the valve.
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:53 PM   #812
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On my 4th gen, I used a 1/8" NPT 90° elbow from Earl's and mounted a small Autometer fuel pressure gauge right to the rail:
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:59 PM   #813
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On my 4th gen, I used a 1/8" NPT 90° elbow from Earl's and mounted a small Autometer fuel pressure gauge right to the rail:
So where do I find that fitting?

OH, and DAMN that looks pretty.
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:04 AM   #814
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Thanks! Unfortunately, I had to sell the 4th gen to buy the 5th gen. Oh well, it was a great choice in my mind!

Here is a link to the fitting info:
http://www.holley.com/991401ERL.asp
Summit and Jegs both stock Earl's.

Here's a link to the gauge:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...earch&gid=2808
Also available at Summit and Jegs.
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:08 AM   #815
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Actually, if there's room, you could screw the gauge directly into the hole on the Magnuson fuel block. The inlet of the Autometer gauge is 1/8" NPT.
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:22 AM   #816
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I need this. Only not red.



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