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Old 06-02-2010, 11:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dms View Post
does not actually affect the alignment that much but it can change the way the car handles. I.E. a split configured tire might look great, but the handling is reduced as compaired to having a oversized tires front and rear being equal.

What tires/tire size were you thinking of?

mike
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Took it to the dealer today for an alignment, 1" drop, 275/40 Pirelli's up front, 315/35 Nitti Invo's on the rear.
Gave them the recommendations from the site, street 75%/track 25% is what I was shooting for.
Front;
Camber -1.4
Caster 8.0
Toe 1/16" in

Rear;
Camber -0.9
Toe 1/16" in

When I picked it up, I see they got Camber and Toe very close to what I wanted, but Caster on the front is 6.0 with a note on the invoice saying caster is not adjustable. I thought that was just rear only on the non-adjustable caster.

Appreciate any input and whether I need to clarify the camber issue with the dealer.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scourage View Post
Took it to the dealer today for an alignment, 1" drop, 275/40 Pirelli's up front, 315/35 Nitti Invo's on the rear.
Gave them the recommendations from the site, street 75%/track 25% is what I was shooting for.
Front;
Camber -1.4
Caster 8.0
Toe 1/16" in

Rear;
Camber -0.9
Toe 1/16" in

When I picked it up, I see they got Camber and Toe very close to what I wanted, but Caster on the front is 6.0 with a note on the invoice saying caster is not adjustable. I thought that was just rear only on the non-adjustable caster.

Appreciate any input and whether I need to clarify the camber issue with the dealer.
Caster is not adjustable on the front. But Pedders makes an eccentric that will make it adjustable and will add 1.0 to 1.25 degrees caster. It does require slotting the hole which will take about .5 to 1.0 hours to complete

Reducing your rear camber to 50% of the front will reduce your plowing when driven very aggressively. Also taking the front toe to .1 degrees toe out each wheel will make a positive affect as well.

There is a signficant thread or 2 on the caster eccentrics.

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Old 06-03-2010, 12:02 AM   #28
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Guess I missed that one. I've seen the threads on the eccentrics and was waiting to see what I could get done with the alignment first.
I know it feels a lot better than it did before the alignment.
I may have upset a few neighbors as I was driving around the round-about just down the road.

Looking at hitting the track for the first time this weekend.
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:09 AM   #29
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Guess I missed that one. I've seen the threads on the eccentrics and was waiting to see what I could get done with the alignment first.
I know it feels a lot better than it did before the alignment.
I may have upset a few neighbors as I was driving around the round-about just down the road.

Looking at hitting the track for the first time this weekend.
Drag or roadrace?

mike
dms
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:38 AM   #30
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Road and maybe some 1/8 mile.
http://www.midamericamotorplex.com/2006/default.asp
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:56 PM   #31
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anyone have specs for eibach pro plus kit?? a pm with them would be great!! thanks
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:32 PM   #32
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Need a little help. Put on Pfadt trailing arms. Also have there lowering spring and sway bars. Before I put on the trailing arms had the front end alignment without any problems. Now went back to the same dealers and they tell me that the passenger rear is out of alignment. They got the drivers rear in psec but cant get the passenger due to the eccentric bolt is all the way out. Does this make any sense?
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:41 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Ice View Post
Need a little help. Put on Pfadt trailing arms. Also have there lowering spring and sway bars. Before I put on the trailing arms had the front end alignment without any problems. Now went back to the same dealers and they tell me that the passenger rear is out of alignment. They got the drivers rear in psec but cant get the passenger due to the eccentric bolt is all the way out. Does this make any sense?

Yep, I could believe that. I had Eibach springs installed on 10/25/10 at Rodgers Chevrolet (thanks again Becky, Gerry and Joe). While reading some more about alignments tonight I went and got my print out to refresh myself on what I have vs. what others are reporting. My rear passenger side is within spec. -0.6. However, the drivers side was at -2.7 before they started the alignment. The best they could get was -1.8. I plan to leave it for now while I decide if I want any further changes to my suspension stuff.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:31 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
Hey everyone! This is a great idea to get a thread together with everyone's recommendations. Below is an image of a downloadable PDF on our website, with our recommendations for various alignment settings according to end-use. Please let us know if you have any questions at all!

Here is a link to the PDF: Alignment Settings



Ok, I hope to not sound dumb, but are these numbers for total Camber or are they for each side individually??



Thanks.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:24 PM   #35
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Ok, I hope to not sound dumb, but are these numbers for total Camber or are they for each side individually??



Thanks.
The numbers will be for each corner, respectively. No worries at al, glad we can help.
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:18 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
The numbers will be for each corner, respectively. No worries at al, glad we can help.
Thanks!
Can you recommend good alignment numbers for the rear only that would be best for drag racing? I want the tires to get the biggest possible contact patch when the rear squats off the line.
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Old 01-15-2011, 10:25 PM   #37
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I am about to install rear cradle inserts,trailing arms, and non adj toe rods. I also had my car lowered about 5k miles ago but did not time bushings. So I need to time the bushings as I will be getting another allignment after all of this. I need more specific diagrams showing the bolts that need to be loosend for timing. I did see the torque specs for bolts but not sure if that shows the ones I need to time. My car will have factory rear tire size with 1'' eibach drop, rear cradle inserts, trailing arms and non adj toe rods. I do not wish to spend money on essentrics. Could you offer me recommendations for allignment for street use and good tire wear but performance as possible with this setup?

This is a diagram of my allignment when I went in to have it done after spring installation and then how they corrected it at the bottom.
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Last edited by jsharp; 01-16-2011 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:31 AM   #38
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Ok I have a question for PFADTS, I just the 1" drop springs and was wondering are the alignment spec you posted for street use recommand for best tire wear or mix of performance and tire wear but still good wear.
Cuz I just aligned it and set it to be in spec with the alignment machine we have in the store for the Camaro, is that still good specs for wear?
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:03 PM   #39
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anyone have the alignment recommendations for EIBACH PRO PLUS kit ? I have a V6 RS, mine seems to be hitting something because I hear a popping noise when going over bumps, even at low speeds, taking it back to shop this weekend but need some more info to make sure they do it correctly this time. Thanks
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:51 PM   #40
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anyone have the alignment recommendations for EIBACH PRO PLUS kit ? I have a V6 RS, mine seems to be hitting something because I hear a popping noise when going over bumps, even at low speeds, taking it back to shop this weekend but need some more info to make sure they do it correctly this time. Thanks
The first thing to have them check are the endlinks. They can appear to be tight, but still make noise. Make sure they double check them.

Alignment Specifications are user dependent. Allow me to ask a few questions.

1. Are you more interested in long even tire wear or handling?
2. Is this your daily driver?
3. Do you take your 5th Gen to the track?
4. What is your RWHP?
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:33 AM   #41
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The first thing to have them check are the endlinks. They can appear to be tight, but still make noise. Make sure they double check them.

Alignment Specifications are user dependent. Allow me to ask a few questions.

1. Are you more interested in long even tire wear or handling?
2. Is this your daily driver?
3. Do you take your 5th Gen to the track?
4. What is your RWHP?
1. Handling
2. Yes daily driver
3. No track days ( dont have time :( )
4. 265

Had the car aligned twice already but the squeak still sounds anytime I hit a bump and it gets really annoying at some roads with uneven pavement cause all I hear is squeak squeak squeak ....... is it possible that maybe the new shorter spring it hitting something since the stock shocks are longer ?
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:37 AM   #42
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1. Handling
2. Yes daily driver
3. No track days ( dont have time :( )
4. 265

Had the car aligned twice already but the squeak still sounds anytime I hit a bump and it gets really annoying at some roads with uneven pavement cause all I hear is squeak squeak squeak ....... is it possible that maybe the new shorter spring it hitting something since the stock shocks are longer ?
Squeaks -- Not to be a ssmart axx, but I just replaced a set of Eibachs with Pedders Supercar Coilovers. The coils used an unusual wrap that is similar to heat shring tubing. I don't recall if it was on both the front and rear coils. The wrap is there to eliminate coil pops. It iss possible your squeak is coming from the plastic tubing rubbing against the same material on a lower coil.

Next Step -- Check all four coils and identify which coils have wrap. Spray the wrap with silicone spray. This is a test. If the noise goes away when the coilo wrap is soaked with silicone we know where the problem is. Give it a test and please report back here.

We'll get to alignment as soon as we sort the squeak.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:49 AM   #43
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If it's coming from the front the spring may need to be 'repositioned' also.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:00 AM   #44
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I have a couple alignment questions that hopefully someone here can help with.

After I lowered my car I had it aligned and asked them to loosen the bushing points, drive the car slowly, and then align. They told me that they do that but don't drive they car, the just shake it a little. I don't remember seeing them do this but I wasn't watching the whole time.

The car does ride a bit rough sometimes. I think part of it is just being a performace car but I'm not sure that some of the bounce isn't coming from the bushings not being done right. It's to the point that I'm thinking about paying to have an alignment done again but obviously I don't want to waste my money.

Can anyone give me a little more specifics on which bolts need to be loosened and if just shaking the car is good enough? I would like to take a copy of whatever is posted to the alignment guy and show them what is suggested so that we will be on the same page. I haven't found a thread out there that gives the specifics on what to do.


My other questions is that I'm thinking about putting the OEM 20x9 and 275/40 on all four corners. Do you think it's necessary to align after doing that?
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:11 AM   #45
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I have a couple alignment questions that hopefully someone here can help with.

After I lowered my car I had it aligned and asked them to loosen the bushing points, drive the car slowly, and then align. They told me that they do that but don't drive they car, the just shake it a little. I don't remember seeing them do this but I wasn't watching the whole time.

The car does ride a bit rough sometimes. I think part of it is just being a performace car but I'm not sure that some of the bounce isn't coming from the bushings not being done right. It's to the point that I'm thinking about paying to have an alignment done again but obviously I don't want to waste my money.

Can anyone give me a little more specifics on which bolts need to be loosened and if just shaking the car is good enough? I would like to take a copy of whatever is posted to the alignment guy and show them what is suggested so that we will be on the same page. I haven't found a thread out there that gives the specifics on what to do.


My other questions is that I'm thinking about putting the OEM 20x9 and 275/40 on all four corners. Do you think it's necessary to align after doing that?
It is difficult, though not impossible, to bounce a car through the full range of articulation. Going over the bumps in a shop driveway starting with the transition from shop floor to driveway is more thorough.

Which Bolts to Loosen

Front Inner Lower
Front Radius

Rear Inner Lower
Trailing Arm Knuckle
Trailing Arm Front
Toe Link -- both ends
Lower Rear Strut

Changing wheels does not require a new alignment.

Some companies dirrect you to cut bumpstops. If the instructions say cut and the installer doesn't cut them that can create a poor ride quality. Before we re-engineer or re-build the suspension it would make sense to get the bushes re-timed and the car re-aligned.

Once other question. Are you on OE wheels and tires? If not please post the details of your setup.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:17 AM   #46
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Thanks......this is what I was looking for.

I have the Hotchkis springs and cutting the bumpstops was not one of the requirements. I did not want to do that which is one of the reasons why I did not go with a Mfg that required me to do so.

I am on the OEM wheels and tires. At the moment I'm planning on adding some 20x9 rear OEM wheels/tires to the front. Doing that mostly so that I can rotate my tires to get a little more life out of them. I do the occassion burnout (on an empty back road of course) so I think roating will help me out. Plus that should free up my front 20x8 for some drag radials when I go to the drag strip a few times throughout the year.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:29 AM   #47
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You're welcome. Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:16 PM   #48
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My post got skipped above!
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:20 PM   #49
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My post got skipped above!
Sorry man. I posted out of order.
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Old 02-21-2011, 12:35 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
It is difficult, though not impossible, to bounce a car through the full range of articulation. Going over the bumps in a shop driveway starting with the transition from shop floor to driveway is more thorough.

Which Bolts to Loosen

Front Inner Lower
Front Radius

Rear Inner Lower
Trailing Arm Knuckle
Trailing Arm Front
Toe Link -- both ends
Lower Rear Strut

Changing wheels does not require a new alignment.

Some companies dirrect you to cut bumpstops. If the instructions say cut and the installer doesn't cut them that can create a poor ride quality. Before we re-engineer or re-build the suspension it would make sense to get the bushes re-timed and the car re-aligned.

Once other question. Are you on OE wheels and tires? If not please post the details of your setup.
Ok....one more question before I go to re-align the car this week. When you say loosen I'm assuming you mean like barely hand tight. Or, do you really mean loose like a thread or two showing?
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