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Old 02-20-2011, 03:02 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Gene Culley View Post
You're looking at about $40 for the splitter and light pipe and $35 - $40 for 3 LED's. Vinyl tubing is only a couple of dollars. This is just off the top of my head.
K THX.

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Old 02-20-2011, 03:24 PM   #16
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Before going this route, I've had one concern. I would think that the light would look like it's coming from behind the panel, not through the panel as it is on the doors. How would you say it looks in person?
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:16 PM   #17
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Good job

Excellent step by step.Will definitely help out when we do our own.Thanks for the write up & heads-up on some of the obstacles.
Thanks to offer,tag, and you for pioneering this modification.Job well done !
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 19K3SS View Post
Before going this route, I've had one concern. I would think that the light would look like it's coming from behind the panel, not through the panel as it is on the doors. How would you say it looks in person?
I was wondering the same thing.

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Old 02-20-2011, 04:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19K3SS View Post
Before going this route, I've had one concern. I would think that the light would look like it's coming from behind the panel, not through the panel as it is on the doors. How would you say it looks in person?
When you're in the dark, you can't tell that the light is coming from under the door panel as opposed to behind it. So what I mean is, sitting in the vehicle, everything looks good. You can do a 180 look from side to side and it all looks uniform and the concern is not really whether it is coming from under a panel or behind it, if you know what I mean.

Also, like I said, it is really hard to photograph, but the light does also shine through the front of the panel, since I already have the ABL panels.

You could sand the top of the dash panels and have it shine through the front of the panel only, but then you're looking at drilling and cutting so that you can actually fit the light pipes behind the panel with the panels fully pushed in.
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:46 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by buzzy56 View Post
Excellent step by step.Will definitely help out when we do our own.Thanks for the write up & heads-up on some of the obstacles.
Thanks to offer,tag, and you for pioneering this modification.Job well done !
Thank you. It took me like 3 hours to do all of the pictures and write everything up and post it, so once I get a chance to step back and read it again I may do better.
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:05 PM   #21
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Thanks for the write up. It looks really nice. Just for clarification re: the drill vs. no-drill method.. The no-drill method has the light bar sticking out about 2-3 mm, which is hardly noticeable, and with the drill method, a person has to sand the top of the dash, drill a little bit so the light bar will go behind the dash?

The drill method would more closely resemble the ABL in the doors, but the no-drill method is quicker/easier. Do I have this right?
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:34 PM   #22
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what would be the drive from harrisburg up to where you are soo i can get this done lol
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:57 PM   #23
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First hat tip to Gene Culley for a hell of a thread.
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzy56 View Post
Excellent step by step.Will definitely help out when we do our own.Thanks for the write up & heads-up on some of the obstacles.
Thanks to offer,tag, and you for pioneering this modification.Job well done !
If you wanted some assistance and/or want to see mine let me know!

Quote:
Originally Posted by anglwngss View Post
Thanks for the write up. It looks really nice. Just for clarification re: the drill vs. no-drill method.. The no-drill method has the light bar sticking out about 2-3 mm, which is hardly noticeable, and with the drill method, a person has to sand the top of the dash, drill a little bit so the light bar will go behind the dash?

The drill method would more closely resemble the ABL in the doors, but the no-drill method is quicker/easier. Do I have this right?
I did mine in a slightly different method. Kind of a combination method, no drill, but I sanded.

To get the trim to go back into place for my method you will need to trim the clips a bit. If you look at the trim you will see that the 2 ends and the center clip are in the way, and this is the reason the trim sticks out with the tube behind it. Here is KTCAM's pic showing that.


In fact if you have a late model 2010, or a 2011 lighting the dash is far easier than fishing to the gauge cluster, since you can tap the purple black wires going into the door at the kick panel.

If you click the link for my car you will see I did a no drill solution for the glovebox light using the second GM light that I was going to use near the gauge cluster.

Oh and the GM door lamps will fit into the footwell lighting area as well.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:11 PM   #25
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Great DIY.

I need to tackle this project myself
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:15 PM   #26
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Great DIY.

I need to tackle this project myself
Are you and you car coming to CF2 If so i will give a light pipe if we can do a DYI with your car.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:22 PM   #27
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I've read Ofer's thread numerous times and then read this and honestly this makes it much easier for me to understand. Not sure why but it just does haha. Thank you for writing this up. Now w/ me having an '11 LS I need to order some new panels for my car. Looking for orange. Cant find them anywhere though.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:23 PM   #28
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Are you and you car coming to CF2 If so i will give a light pipe if we can do a DYI with your car.
Uhm.... lemme think....

DONE!



Let me know what you need from me.

COOL!
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