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Old 02-21-2011, 09:49 AM   #51
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Ok....one more question before I go to re-align the car this week. When you say loosen I'm assuming you mean like barely hand tight. Or, do you really mean loose like a thread or two showing?
The nut backed off so a thread or two is showing between the nut and the arm
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:34 PM   #52
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So could you check out my earlier post and offer ideas on a good allignment?I put a pick of my allignment settings on page 2
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:40 AM   #53
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For a good street alignment that corners and luanches well without unusual tire wear here is what I suggest.

Front
Camber -1.2 per side
Toe bring it to ZERO. It will help with turn in, but will not eat your tires

Rear
Camber bring it done to as close to -5 degrees as you can get. This will help with tire bite at luanch and dial out a bit of understeer.
Your 5th Gen had toe eccentrics when it left the factory. Have the tech set you rear thrust angle to ZERO at something like.12 as showing on you sheet. When the sides are matched the thrust angle will be ZERO
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:32 AM   #54
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Ok Pete.. give me your alignment setup for a person who is looking for street use only and the best tire wear. And will I be able to get this alignment without buying extra parts. Should be receiving your coils soon.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:26 PM   #55
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Ok Pete.. give me your alignment setup for a person who is looking for street use only and the best tire wear. And will I be able to get this alignment without buying extra parts. Should be receiving your coils soon.
Front
Camber -.75 per side
Toe .17

Rear
Camber bring it done to as close to -5 degrees as you can get. This will help with tire bite at launch and dial out a bit of understeer.
Your 5th Gen had toe eccentrics when it left the factory. Have the tech set you rear thrust angle to ZERO at something like.12 as showing on you sheet. When the sides are matched the thrust angle will be ZERO
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:57 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
For a good street alignment that corners and luanches well without unusual tire wear here is what I suggest.

Front
Camber -1.2 per side
Toe bring it to ZERO. It will help with turn in, but will not eat your tires

Rear
Camber bring it done to as close to -5 degrees as you can get. This will help with tire bite at luanch and dial out a bit of understeer.
Your 5th Gen had toe eccentrics when it left the factory. Have the tech set you rear thrust angle to ZERO at something like.12 as showing on you sheet. When the sides are matched the thrust angle will be ZERO
I dont understand the statement in red. Are you saying set the thrust at zero or .12 I didnt know if that was a typo or over my head talk lol
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:16 PM   #57
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Well....got my car re-aligned yesterday. Had him tune the bushings. The guy spent a good 2hrs doing everything and I watched as he loosened up everything.

My dad rode along with me because he didn't have anything going on. Funny thing was that he was commenting how springy it felt on the way to the shop.

Afterwards we both agreed that some to the springy feeling was gone. You still feel dips in the road but you are going to get that even from the factory with these cars.

All in All I'm very glad I had it done. What was even better is that he only charged me $100. I think that's because we started doing some bench racing while he was working. He has a C5 Z06 that he had just put a supercharger on. So, over the course of those 2 hrs or so we had some good talks about our cars and racing them at the track.
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:49 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
Well....got my car re-aligned yesterday. Had him tune the bushings. The guy spent a good 2hrs doing everything and I watched as he loosened up everything.

My dad rode along with me because he didn't have anything going on. Funny thing was that he was commenting how springy it felt on the way to the shop.

Afterwards we both agreed that some to the springy feeling was gone. You still feel dips in the road but you are going to get that even from the factory with these cars.

All in All I'm very glad I had it done. What was even better is that he only charged me $100. I think that's because we started doing some bench racing while he was working. He has a C5 Z06 that he had just put a supercharger on. So, over the course of those 2 hrs or so we had some good talks about our cars and racing them at the track.
Very cool in several ways.
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:51 PM   #59
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I dont understand the statement in red. Are you saying set the thrust at zero or .12 I didnt know if that was a typo or over my head talk lol
poor wording on my part. Set the toe to something moderate like .12. With both sides matched, both sides with the same tow reading, the thrusta angle will be zero.
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:15 PM   #60
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Gotcha. thanks!
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:06 PM   #61
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Oh.....I forgot to give Justice Pete a big .

Thanks for all your help! It's people like you that make this forum great......and very addictive.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:31 PM   #62
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so the caster and steer ahead doesnt matter or will those be ok in stock specs?
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:46 PM   #63
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so the caster and steer ahead doesnt matter or will those be ok in stock specs?
There is no factory castor adjustment so it is a fixed measurement, unless you have installed Pedders castor eccentric bolts
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:52 PM   #64
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or hit something really hard, evenly on both sides, once.
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:48 PM   #65
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OK here it goes, When my car had the stock Rims and tires and springs I could run it up to 125+mph or so and the car felt tight to the road, I changed the wheels/tires lowered 1in with springs, Now at 125 it feels loose in the front like it's walking side to side. Kind of scary. I took the settings pdfat gave for Performance street and the guy told me it would eat my tires off. Instead of arguing with him I just had set it to stock. Still feels lose at high speeds.

MY question is if I have them set to pdfats setting will it fix the high speed problem? and will it make it eat the inside of the tires off faster?
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:55 PM   #66
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OK here it goes, When my car had the stock Rims and tires and springs I could run it up to 125+mph or so and the car felt tight to the road, I changed the wheels/tires lowered 1in with springs, Now at 125 it feels loose in the front like it's walking side to side. Kind of scary. I took the settings pdfat gave for Performance street and the guy told me it would eat my tires off. Instead of arguing with him I just had set it to stock. Still feels lose at high speeds.

MY question is if I have them set to pdfats setting will it fix the high speed problem? and will it make it eat the inside of the tires off faster?
A Camaro set to OE specs should not wander. Can you post your actual alignment numbers?
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:58 PM   #67
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A Camaro set to OE specs should not wander. Can you post your actual alignment numbers?
I have no idea, he gave me nothing. I changed to Toyo Proxes 4's All season would that matter?
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:11 PM   #68
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I have no idea, he gave me nothing. I changed to Toyo Proxes 4's All season would that matter?
Everything matters, but we are really shooting in the dark without actual alignment specs. Castor can cause a wander. Toe out can cause a high speed wander. The main issue we would have with an OE alignment is the 'green' range. The tolerance covers a wide range in an OE alignment. Tires can too. You can use Pedders, Hotchkis, Pfadt or even OE and they will all work IF the alignment is tight to the specifications. i.e. -.75 degrees negative front camber would mean exactly -.75 on both wheels and not -.25 on one and -1.1 on the other.

What I suggest you do is print off your alignment spec of choice for your 5th Gen and take it with you to the alignment shop. Tell them you want a Pedders spec alignment, a tight tolerance alignment, and want a before and after print out. Make it clear that you'll settle for nothing less and ask them what they will charge to do it this way. Getting a green range alignment takes the tech half or a third of the time. Doing it spot on dead nuts accurate will take longer. If it doesn't solve your problem then that would lead us to your tires. Sorting the too out starts with a really good alignment.
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:21 PM   #69
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Thanks for the Help, That's what I will do and see what happens, I'm going to try a different shop this time.
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:24 PM   #70
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Thanks for the Help, That's what I will do and see what happens, I'm going to try a different shop this time.
You are welcome. Forum members helping forum members is what we are supposed to do on Camaro5! Please post up your before and after alignment specs when you get them.
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Old 05-23-2011, 04:02 PM   #71
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So how do you time the bushings is that when loosen the suspension bolts and drive the car the align it an retighten the loosened bolts
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Old 05-23-2011, 04:40 PM   #72
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So how do you time the bushings is that when loosen the suspension bolts and drive the car the align it an retighten the loosened bolts
I wouldn't loosen them and then drive it. You have the alignment guy losen them, SLOWLY drive it around the parking lot or have them vigorously shake/move the car, then re-tighten and align.

I woudn't drive it with loose bolts. You don't want your suspension to fall off on the way to the alignment shop.

Make sure to find an alignment shop that knows what you are talking about when you say you want them to time the bushings. At least they should be familiar with the process if they use different terminology. If they say it's not necessary and won't make a difference....find another shop. Be prepared to pay more money than just a regular alignment. There is more work involved with timing the bushings.
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:48 PM   #73
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My car pulls hard to the right after three times to the alignment shop. Guys says he got them to exactly match the factory settings which doesnt seem right to me. Can anyone please help? Also, a rattle from the passenger rear when the rear suspension goes over a bump. Could this be the issue for the pulling?

Thanks
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:55 PM   #74
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My car pulls hard to the right after three times to the alignment shop. Guys says he got them to exactly match the factory settings which doesnt seem right to me. Can anyone please help? Also, a rattle from the passenger rear when the rear suspension goes over a bump. Could this be the issue for the pulling?

Thanks
If the car check out alignment wise I would not be concerned with the rattle being connected to the pull. It would really help if you could post the exact alignment specifications found on your Camaro. The reason is straight forward. The green range, the factory tolerances for alignment are 'generous'. You could be in the green range all around and create a pull. Please see if the Dealer will provide you with an alignment sheet so you can post it up.
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:47 PM   #75
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What's a good drag racing set up for stock suspension?
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