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Old 01-08-2011, 10:06 PM   #1
meschwenk
 
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Speaker Install

I had a fun day. I installed some new 6x9 speakers. I used the new 6x9 adapters from http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Su...ers-clone.html

Remove the rocker panel.



Remove the back seat. Start with the bottom part. You will need to pull up on the front part of the seat and then pull forward.



To remove the seatback you will fold the seat down and then look at the hinge you will see what I saw in the second photo. You will need two people to do this because it has to be done at the same time on both sides. Just push the silver piece back and lift the seatback up and out.




Now it is time to remove the lower interior trim piece. I started at the bottom front and worked my way to the back.



Next remove the back window trim. When you pull this off be careful their is a black clip that needs to be removed after you get this off. I think it is part of the airbag system.



Now remove side window trim. You will need a 7mm socket and T50 torx bit. There are two screws. One is hidden under the "Airbag" piece above the seatbelt for the front seat and the other is by the back window. You will need the T50 torx to remove the front seatbelt. After you have all of the screws removed just pull on the piece and it will pop out.



Now the real fun beggins. The rear speaker deck. There are four push tabs on the front part that need to be removed. Once you have them removed get under the speaker deck in the trunk and you will see four push pins that need to pushed up.



Here is the underside, You can see the four blue push pins. This is what is holding this piece in place. I worked my hand between the deck trim and the sheetmetal and pushed up on the deck trim and they came out.



At this point the rear deck trim still did not want to come out. If you look at the photo (below). You can see three of the four tabs that hold this in place. I just had to pull hard to get this to come out.



Here is what it looked like after everything is out



You can see the factory speaker now. If you notice there is a big foam piece right next to each speaker. I'm not sure what this is for, but I think it helps to put pressure on the speaker deck. I would say do not remove this.



Installed Dynamat.



I installed the new speaker to the Subthump adapter. New and old.



Here is the speaker installed.



Just put everything back in the reverse order and your done. It took a few hours to do this, but it was worth it. The sound system sounded so much better. Next step will be amps and sub.

I hope this helps others who are thinking about doing this. I did shoot some video of this, so I will edit it and upload it later.
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Old 01-08-2011, 10:33 PM   #2
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Sweet thread!!!! looks like a lot of work. I hope it was worth it. Great job and thanks for sharing the pics.
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:17 PM   #3
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How did you go about wiring them in? Do you have the BA or non-BA system?
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:36 PM   #4
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It is the non-BA system. I just cut the speaker plug off the wires and used the wire adapters that came with the new speakers.
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:55 PM   #5
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Thanks for the walk-through! I'm doing the same thing next weekend.
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:45 AM   #6
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excellent write up, that really confirms that I dont want to do that job! I had been dreading it, now I know not to even try!
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:42 AM   #7
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Ya....What the hell, seems like alot of work. Good write up though. Like the guy above, now I know why I dont want to mess with it. I hate dealing with all that interior pins and tabs. Seems like they didnt want us to mess around back there. Maybe I will wait for Best Buy to have one of their "Free Installation" with purchase deals. I will buy the speakers and laugh as I leave, lol.
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:43 AM   #8
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WOW looks great..... thanks for all the info and walk threw
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:20 AM   #9
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Should post this in the DIY section or possibly a mod could move it there????
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:40 AM   #10
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thats alot of work to change the 6x9s...hard to tell from the pics but would there be a way to hang the 6x9s?mount them from the trunk so if you have to change a speaker again you dont have to rip the whoe back end of your car apart again...maybe an adapter to hang them if possible..hint hint subthump..
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Old 01-09-2011, 11:10 AM   #11
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It seems like a lot of work the first time that you do it, if I had to do it again it would take about a quarter of the time. I had never done this before so I went slow and it took most of the day to do. The new adapters from www.subthump.com did not come with any instructions, but it looked easy enough to install.



you could use this adapter from the bottom or the top because the screw holes for the adapter will go into the sheetmetal. If you use this adapter to mount underneath it is 3/4 of inch thick, so your speakers will hang lower and may get in the way of things. If you dont care I don't see why you couldnt.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:23 PM   #12
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This is a nice write up.

Couple of things:
1. Would you be willing to go back and edit your pics, specifically pointing out the clip locations and what not? You can use mspaint to do this.

2. Also did you mess any clips or break any fasteners when doing this?

I ask these two questions only because this looks like a major pain and this photo right up is excellent. With the addition of the fastener points it would make it perfect.

Cheers
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:22 PM   #13
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I would like to edit the photos, but they don't show the all the places where the trim tabs are located. I did shoot some video of the install. It shows some of the trim and what your looking for. I will try to edit it this week.

I will be installing an Alpine MRP-F300 amp this weekend to power the new Alpine 609s. I will try to reshoot the trim photos to show the clip locations and screws.

I did not break any clips or fasteners. I just worked slow and took my time pulling off the trim.
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Old 01-09-2011, 11:25 PM   #14
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Awesome, good write up!

I just want to replace my door speakers... How easy is the wiring to aftermarket speakers with a stock head unit?
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:58 PM   #15
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awesome

if its not to late please seal those mdf adapters,they will deteriate in that back glass with the heat,alot of work im sure you dont want to do again anytime soon lol...should sound great!
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:13 AM   #16
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Great write up . Now I know what I will be getting into once it warms up some.
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Old 04-01-2011, 06:28 PM   #17
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I can't get past taking out the top part of the backseat!!! Help please
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Old 04-01-2011, 06:33 PM   #18
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nice, what a PITA just to replace them..:(
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010SLVRBULIT View Post
nice, what a PITA just to replace them..:(
I have done a few installs but this is the hardest of any of them!! WTF
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:39 PM   #20
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Really cool. But, I wouldn't do that myself. No way.
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Old 04-02-2011, 12:24 AM   #21
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omg.... i never knew that changing out the rear speaker take that much work.....
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Old 04-02-2011, 04:39 AM   #22
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Honestly, it looks like a lot of work but it isn't really THAT bad. I've had my rear deck out several times over the last couple months and I can have it out in 20 minutes and back together in another 30. If you want new speakers, and don't want some bone-head at Best Buy to thrash your car, go for it. Its a fun project.
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Old 04-02-2011, 04:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Docknock View Post
I can't get past taking out the top part of the backseat!!! Help please
Pull the seat forward and look to the left and right of the base on the backside. You will see the pivot point and where the small arms rest in the carriers. As you hold the seat forward at a 45 degree angle, reach down there and push the mouth of one side open. Rotate the arm out of the carrier. While continuing to hold the seat, move over to the other side and repeat.

The trick is that the arms are notched to only come out of the carrier if the seat is rotated 45 degrees to the front.

Good luck!
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Old 04-02-2011, 09:25 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gill7784 View Post
Pull the seat forward and look to the left and right of the base on the backside. You will see the pivot point and where the small arms rest in the carriers. As you hold the seat forward at a 45 degree angle, reach down there and push the mouth of one side open. Rotate the arm out of the carrier. While continuing to hold the seat, move over to the other side and repeat.

The trick is that the arms are notched to only come out of the carrier if the seat is rotated 45 degrees to the front.

Good luck!

I finished it last night! Removing that part was the hardest because the rubber piece was sliding and covering the exit point.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:16 PM   #25
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Thanks for the write up and pictures.
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