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Old 04-05-2011, 08:29 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro View Post
So... I got all my parts in

I'm just confused about the vinyl tubing. I read what I have to do like 5 times and it's just not clicking. Could you explain the use/ what I have to do with it a little more in depth?
In order to attach the light tube on the far passenger side, you need to take the LED lamp out of the GM holder. Once I did that I sealed the metal contacts and resistor up with liquid tape.

You then take a small piece of vinyl tubing to attach the GM LED to the light tube.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=219
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Old 04-05-2011, 02:07 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro View Post
So... I got all my parts in

I'm just confused about the vinyl tubing. I read what I have to do like 5 times and it's just not clicking. Could you explain the use/ what I have to do with it a little more in depth?
hello bro, see above post and also this one, look at the 2nd pic, after you take off the housing, all you have is the led (with wire and resistor) slide a small piece of clear tubing (1/4 tubing) only about 1/3 inch long, over the led and slide the rod into the tubing also, so they are held together
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...63&postcount=9

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Old 04-08-2011, 10:25 AM   #103
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thanks guys for the help, i did that part now =)

btw, why do we tape the vinyl tube on the LED? my 1/4 vinyl tubing seems pretty stuck on the LED, without tape??
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:47 PM   #104
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First 2 mods done!

Thank you Gene for putting together such a good DIY and Ofer for shipping so quickly. With the ABL lighting and audio upgrade, my first 2 mods are done!
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:34 PM   #105
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Ok guys...


I got tired of having the light emitting more/less in certain areas and tried the rubber spacer method. No go. I had tiny shadows and the light tube wouldn't always get where I wanted it. Finally got tired of it and got some weather stripping. Hey, at $3.00 for a pack, it's worth the try, right?




Well?



IT WORKED.



Correct. The weather stripping method worked. It forces the insert to lay even all the way across teh dash, just like the insert is a single long piece. The attachments push and pull on certain parts, but the stripping actually creates a more even look.




For ANY of you doing this mod, you really have to give this method a go. I think Lupe hit the nail on the head. If you want even light with no sanding, you must buy weather stripping.

Forgot to say what size...I'll go look and post in a few.
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:43 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAG UR IT View Post



Ok guys...


I got tired of having the light emitting more/less in certain areas and tried the rubber spacer method. No go. I had tiny shadows and the light tube wouldn't always get where I wanted it. Finally got tired of it and got some weather stripping. Hey, at $3.00 for a pack, it's worth the try, right?




Well?



IT WORKED.



Correct. The weather stripping method worked. It forces the insert to lay even all the way across teh dash, just like the insert is a single long piece. The attachments push and pull on certain parts, but the stripping actually creates a more even look.




For ANY of you doing this mod, you really have to give this method a go. I think Lupe hit the nail on the head. If you want even light with no sanding, you must buy weather stripping.

Forgot to say what size...I'll go look and post in a few.
Thanks Tag and Lupe!

I've been waiting to do mine until this got sorted.

Appreciate everyone's hard work on this!
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:54 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAG UR IT View Post



Ok guys...


I got tired of having the light emitting more/less in certain areas and tried the rubber spacer method. No go. I had tiny shadows and the light tube wouldn't always get where I wanted it. Finally got tired of it and got some weather stripping. Hey, at $3.00 for a pack, it's worth the try, right?




Well?



IT WORKED.



Correct. The weather stripping method worked. It forces the insert to lay even all the way across teh dash, just like the insert is a single long piece. The attachments push and pull on certain parts, but the stripping actually creates a more even look.




For ANY of you doing this mod, you really have to give this method a go. I think Lupe hit the nail on the head. If you want even light with no sanding, you must buy weather stripping.

Forgot to say what size...I'll go look and post in a few.

" SIZE does MATTER " now go check real quick and let us know !!!
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:10 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro View Post
thanks guys for the help, i did that part now =)

btw, why do we tape the vinyl tube on the LED? my 1/4 vinyl tubing seems pretty stuck on the LED, without tape??
Looks like they answered your previous question before I got back. But, yes, I did tape the tube to the LED. For me, this was also necessary to control the lighting coming out of the LED where it meets the tube.
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:11 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by ThePagelJrs View Post
Thank you Gene for putting together such a good DIY and Ofer for shipping so quickly. With the ABL lighting and audio upgrade, my first 2 mods are done!
No problem. I'm glad to hear you're taken care of!
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:12 PM   #110
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Originally Posted by TAG UR IT View Post

Correct. The weather stripping method worked. It forces the insert to lay even all the way across teh dash, just like the insert is a single long piece. The attachments push and pull on certain parts, but the stripping actually creates a more even look.
.
I'm curious as to how this weatherstripping forces the insert to lay a certain way. I thought it was for having the tube lay on top?
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:17 PM   #111
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I've got another trick for shimming the trim piece to get the proper gap.
I used clear hockey tape.
I layed layer after layer onto itself kind of like a deck of cards and cut it to the size I needed. About 20 layers was perfect. With the tape I could keep adding layers, or take some away to get the gap thickness right. It cuts easily with a razor blade. The pieces were about 3/4" square.
If a shadow showed up I just trimmed the tape pile smaller.
It worked really good.
I didn't think of taking any pictures, and don't want to tear it apart again, as it looks good and is all back together.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:29 AM   #112
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I'm curious as to how this weatherstripping forces the insert to lay a certain way. I thought it was for having the tube lay on top?
hello gene, for me, i did use the weather stripping to actually hold the tube from falling or sagging, it turn, it holds the tube where you want it and the tube creates the correct gap (space).

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Old 04-10-2011, 12:52 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Culley View Post
I'm curious as to how this weatherstripping forces the insert to lay a certain way. I thought it was for having the tube lay on top?
Well, ...it does (trying to think of the best way to explain this). The weather stripping forces the light pipe to stay up higher (when behind the dash insert). The light pipe sits against the dash and the insert. I'm sure the weather stripping that is attached to the back of the insert is also sitting against the dash (imagine a triangle with the light pipe forced up into the top of the corner with the weather stripping holding it up there. The higher the weather stripping, the higher the light pipe sits. Eventually, the weather stripping is going to be touching the dash too, right?

Ah hell....I'll remove it and just take pix tomorrow....lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS View Post
I've got another trick for shimming the trim piece to get the proper gap.
I used clear hockey tape.
I layed layer after layer onto itself kind of like a deck of cards and cut it to the size I needed. About 20 layers was perfect. With the tape I could keep adding layers, or take some away to get the gap thickness right. It cuts easily with a razor blade. The pieces were about 3/4" square.
If a shadow showed up I just trimmed the tape pile smaller.
It worked really good.
I didn't think of taking any pictures, and don't want to tear it apart again, as it looks good and is all back together.
And I know exactly what you are talking about because I did the same exact thing.

The problem I found was that I was taping the problem areas...which led to taping more problem areas that came up due to the first problem areas being taped. Next thing I knew, I had pulled the part out 5 times trying to tape new area behind the insert and it getting to be a pain in the butt.

Using weather stripping from Home Depot has really been the perfect solution thus far. It took me all of 4 minutes to open the package, remove the insert, cut 3 to 4 inch pieces to go between each "rail," and snap it back together against the dash. I had to take off the insert one time...to move all of the weather stripping pieces up to hold the light pipe up higher (which pushed the insert out just enough so that more space was made for more light to come out).
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:43 AM   #114
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Thanks for the explanation guys. That does make sense to me that the tube would now act as a spacer since it is higher up. Pictures would be great though! And exactly what weatherstrip material are you guys buying?
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:49 AM   #115
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Thanks for the explanation guys. That does make sense to me that the tube would now act as a spacer since it is higher up. Pictures would be great though! And exactly what weatherstrip material are you guys buying?
hello Gene, its home depot 1/4 inch weather stripping, sticky on one side. look again at the video i posted, you can see the stripping stuck to the trim. i found this link from home depot, not the same size but same kind
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053

lupe
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:52 PM   #116
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hello Gene, its home depot 1/4 inch weather stripping, sticky on one side. look again at the video i posted, you can see the stripping stuck to the trim. i found this link from home depot, not the same size but same kind
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053

lupe
Same stuff I used to keep my rear deck from rattling because of the sub. LOL Home Depot is making a killing off Camaro modders.
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:38 AM   #117
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Looks like they answered your previous question before I got back. But, yes, I did tape the tube to the LED. For me, this was also necessary to control the lighting coming out of the LED where it meets the tube.
ahh I see... I might do that one day, but I actually like the look of having the two ends brighter lmao

Thanks for the info
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:46 PM   #118
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hello Gene, its home depot 1/4 inch weather stripping, sticky on one side. look again at the video i posted, you can see the stripping stuck to the trim. i found this link from home depot, not the same size but same kind
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053

lupe
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Same stuff I used to keep my rear deck from rattling because of the sub. LOL Home Depot is making a killing off Camaro modders.
Thanks guys. I'll have to check it out and play around with it.
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:46 PM   #119
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ahh I see... I might do that one day, but I actually like the look of having the two ends brighter lmao

Thanks for the info
I understand. I wanted mine to be more even and not brighter on each end, but either way is good!
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:58 AM   #120
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so Ofer's drill method will result in the trim piece being flush like normal against the dash and not sticking out the 2-3mm that the no-drill method has?

Also, waiting to see what this weather stripping business is and how that helps the light comes through... I'm guessing you're using the sticky side on the dash to hold the light tube correctly all the way across the dash and have equal light emitting because the tube is not uneven with the white reflector in it?

there are multiple version of this DIY and I'm trying to find a way to combine them all for the best result
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:43 PM   #121
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so Ofer's drill method will result in the trim piece being flush like normal against the dash and not sticking out the 2-3mm that the no-drill method has?

Also, waiting to see what this weather stripping business is and how that helps the light comes through... I'm guessing you're using the sticky side on the dash to hold the light tube correctly all the way across the dash and have equal light emitting because the tube is not uneven with the white reflector in it?

there are multiple version of this DIY and I'm trying to find a way to combine them all for the best result
The only way to really get the light to shine up through is to have it sticking out 2-3mm. People have been putting the weatherstrip, sticky side, on the actual ABL panel. All it is doing is holding up the tube so it doesn't fall down.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:52 AM   #122
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The only way to really get the light to shine up through is to have it sticking out 2-3mm. People have been putting the weatherstrip, sticky side, on the actual ABL panel. All it is doing is holding up the tube so it doesn't fall down.

So sanding down the paint off the top edge wont either?
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:47 PM   #123
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So sanding down the paint off the top edge wont either?
I've had several customers call me recently and tell me that the sanding results in new panels, lol.

But, let's just say you sand the panel. I can see getting the passenger side panel to fit flush, but there's no way you're getting the left side flush. I also don't think it will look as good as shining behind the panel either, but that is my own opinion.
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:13 AM   #124
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I've had several customers call me recently and tell me that the sanding results in new panels, lol.

But, let's just say you sand the panel. I can see getting the passenger side panel to fit flush, but there's no way you're getting the left side flush. I also don't think it will look as good as shining behind the panel either, but that is my own opinion.
Interesting. Yeah my passenger side lays flush, but hardly any ligt gets through I figured sanding would help it as that edge has paint on it so if the paint was off it would shine through better. As far as the driver side, the tabs that hold it need to be ground out like mentioned a while ago and it would allow the light pipe to lay down further thus allowing the panel to lay flush to teh dash, and sanding that edge again to me would allow light through, just the way when you sand the last 3-4 inches of the door to allow the light through, that would look more natural and OEM to me personally. I am going to wait though until I get around to sanding the doors, and see how it's done over there, better. Probably won't get to it for a few more days still, but I did get the pipe installed and the lights plugged in yesterday as my power was out, so I was unable to work in the house, it forced me to go outside and do it LOL perfect!

Anyway thanks Gene for the reply.

Question, can just the passenger piece be bought by itself? I may try to sand it and see the result, if it goes bad it would be cheaper to replace that one piece.
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:04 PM   #125
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Anyway thanks Gene for the reply.

Question, can just the passenger piece be bought by itself? I may try to sand it and see the result, if it goes bad it would be cheaper to replace that one piece.
Yes, you can buy them separately. They are like $60 or $70 I think, off the top of my head.
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