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Old 02-24-2011, 12:40 PM   #15
Jaysin
 
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Very nice writeup. Thanks for the effort.
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:25 PM   #16
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i like the write up good work
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:46 AM   #17
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Sorry if i missed this but I didn't notice it anywhere. What is the mounting depth for the 6.5 and what size tweeter fits into that factory bracket? Thank you very much for sharing your install.
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:51 PM   #18
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What speakers did you use? Coudl you point me in the direction. They are Kickers I see but just curious which ones you used. Also, do you need a crossover for each door ie. each front speaker? And Ive never done this to a car before except replace stock speakers out of my Explorer but what does a crossover do? Im looking to add subs to my car via ******** so I may also just do a complete system redo minus the headunit.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:09 PM   #19
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Nevermind, I went to crutchfield and found these:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DS62...-2.html?tp=106

By the pic of the crossover, I think these may be what you have. So the system is really that much better vs. stock that its night and day like you said?
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:21 PM   #20
Darth Martel
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These are the model speakers and head unit I used.

Kicker 07DS6502 DS-Series 6.5-Inch Component System with 20mm Tweeter

Kicker 07DS6930 DS-Series 6-Inch x 9-Inch 152mm X 229mm 3-Way Speaker

Pioneer AVH-P3300BT

The crossovers come with the speakers. When you're using component speakers, a crossover is needed to filter the lower end signal out as the tweeters are just for higher audio spectrum signals. Subs are for very low spectrum signals and generally there's a separate crossover to pass only the low end signal to the sub. High-pass filter for tweets. Low-pass filter for subs. Everything else can go to your front and rear speakers.

If you're going to replace anything, replace the head unit. It will make the stock speakers sound halfway decent. The stock speakers aren't rated very highly as far as power and that's why I swapped them out for the Kickers. I like to crank my music up, roll the windows down, and jam out as I'm cruising.

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Originally Posted by bigwayne3000 View Post
What speakers did you use? Coudl you point me in the direction. They are Kickers I see but just curious which ones you used. Also, do you need a crossover for each door ie. each front speaker? And Ive never done this to a car before except replace stock speakers out of my Explorer but what does a crossover do? Im looking to add subs to my car via ******** so I may also just do a complete system redo minus the headunit.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:48 PM   #21
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Thanks man. I would replace the head unit but honestly, Im really not a fan of any of the Metra kit and the Alpine kit whenever thats released isnt much better. Another question I have than is since I will be running 2 10" subs from ******** eventually depending on what I do first (speaker replacement or subs) would I have to run anything from the crossovers to the subs or would I just hook up the subs like I normally would?
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Old 04-21-2011, 02:27 PM   #22
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You wouldn't need to mess with these Kicker crossovers at all. They're JUST for the front tweeters. I'm not sure how adding subs works on a stock system but, I think you end up splicing into the wires going to the rear speakers and adapting them for the subs. ******** does have what you need for all that. Honestly though, a new head unit has sub outputs already built into it and it handles the crossover so, it's practically plug n play. If you're not into what kits are available though then I don't know what else to tell you. Upgrading the speakers and adding a sub is doable and will probably sound ok but, it's far from ideal.
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:48 AM   #23
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I showed these pics to a local install shop and they had similar comments about the crossover placement. I washed my car today with a hose (not power washer) and then started on the install. I had moisture on the inside of the door, where the moisture barrier is glued to teh inside structure of the door. I think there's no good reason to put the crossover out there to rust. Living in Cali, I can tell you it will start to corrode when there's moisture around.

I found there's tons of room inside the door panel. If you look on the same side as the door lock arm (top right on passenger side) and then at the bottom, there's tons of room there. Heck if you're bored with lots of time, put it in the foam block.

My top part didn't really pop cleanly out. So half the cllips up near the window came off with the door panel. Anyone else have this problem and how did you put it back? I think the clip goes on the door first, then the weathersealslips down on top, and then the door pops on....however it doesn't look right this way.

Any help would be great!!

I'll probably post up a thread with specifics on how I got Hertz Hi-Power HSK 165's to fit using the factory adapter for the mid and adapting the tweeter's ring to work with the single phillips screw that hold the pod in place (while allowing the other side to pop into the tabs).
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Old 05-26-2011, 05:24 PM   #24
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The pics and writeup are for the passenger side. How did you get the driversside rear trunk wire harness off? The others are standard clips but the rear hatch release isn't letting go.
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:17 AM   #25
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Well, guess I'll answer my own questions just to help the next guy:

If the clips come off, there are inserts along the top of the door. They're easy to miss, but there are about 9 small slits along the top. Start with the top, closest to the door lock knob. Now, skip every other slit. Once that's in you can slip the rubber seal back along the top lip of the door.

I'm not sure how it popped out, but while manuevering the rear hatch harness released. There is a very small little rubber plunger between the button and the harness. If you're not paying attention IT WILL FALL OUT UNNOTICED. I can attest to this firsthand. I got it back together and realized the button just flops around. I never saw a piece fall and figured I'd be making a trip (ended up anyway) to the parts. Fortunately, I found it a couple hours later under the car (I'd test driven a few times), on the driveway. I'll put it in when I pull the door for replacing the window switch..which leads to...

Last lesson learned. When your wife and kids are yelling for you to hurry up, don't get in a hurry with the harnesses. The harness for the side mirror adjustment WILL FIT into the window motor levers. I had the system on as I was multitasking (system check, etc) to try and get done faster. Let the smoke out and now the driver's side window switch is inop. The motor's ok because the window auto-cracks for opening/closing, and the passenger window switch still works on the driver's door.

First time I've seen a GM door with harnesses that if crossed would smoke something, then again I haven't been installing in about 15 years.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:35 AM   #26
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This might be a dumb question but how would u seal the ******** adapters and what would u do it with and where? And why would they need to be sealed? Im new to car audio installation..much thanks
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopper View Post
This might be a dumb question but how would u seal the ******** adapters and what would u do it with and where? And why would they need to be sealed? Im new to car audio installation..much thanks
Check out one of my posts, I did a write up on how to do this.

You can use primer and paint, you can use a mixture of resin and a thinner of sorts (I forget but its readily available) sand then paint. You can plastidip.

You would do the whole adapter. Reason you do this is MDF is basically compressed sawdust (layman's terms) when it gets wet or draws moisture it gets brittle, swells and turns into a pile of crap. You seal it and it is a very good inexpensive solid product.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:17 PM   #28
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just what I was looking for.. thanks
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