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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 04-07-2011, 10:31 PM   #351
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I have run the GTO res for 1 1/2 year now, it hold more all the fluid you need, grate mod and for less the $30.
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:04 AM   #352
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Same here. One of the best mods you can do to your car.
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:15 AM   #353
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Thanks for the feedback guys and all you research to provide the rest of us a good solution!
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:59 AM   #354
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My bracket

I got a lot of requests about making the bracket I used to mount my reservoir. I made mine by hand with a pc of 1/8" thick aluminum and a grinder. It's really not something that could be produced in a small quantity for a reasonable price so I had my draftsman do a drawing for you guys to copy if you'd like. It should transfer in proportion but I had her include a bunch of numbers on it just in case. I would get your fasteners before you drill the top 2 holes as the size may need to be adjusted.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:36 PM   #355
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Quote:
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I got a lot of requests about making the bracket I used to mount my reservoir. I made mine by hand with a pc of 1/8" thick aluminum and a grinder. It's really not something that could be produced in a small quantity for a reasonable price so I had my draftsman do a drawing for you guys to copy if you'd like. It should transfer in proportion but I had her include a bunch of numbers on it just in case. I would get your fasteners before you drill the top 2 holes as the size may need to be adjusted.
You have a draftsman?!

Thanks for the drawing.
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:38 PM   #356
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I own a commercial roofing company, she does our shop drawings.
Royal-West Roofing.com if anybody needs a roof!
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:47 PM   #357
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That is awesome TC. One comment. She should have made it to scale so we could trace onto a piece of aluminum and just cut instead of having to measure.
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:50 PM   #358
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or provide the cad file...
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:57 PM   #359
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Print it out and it will be.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:09 PM   #360
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Looks grate thank you, Now i have to go get some 1/8" thick aluminum.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:36 PM   #361
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Jeez just read this whole thread and I believe I've confused myself... Defininately going to look into doing this soon!
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Seems like just yesterday I spent $450 for a Roto Fab CAI!!! What the hell happened.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:51 PM   #362
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hopefully I don't see any of you jokers selling these now.
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Old 04-20-2011, 04:32 PM   #363
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No but updating the look.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:59 AM   #364
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Quote:
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I got a lot of requests about making the bracket I used to mount my reservoir. I made mine by hand with a pc of 1/8" thick aluminum and a grinder. It's really not something that could be produced in a small quantity for a reasonable price so I had my draftsman do a drawing for you guys to copy if you'd like. It should transfer in proportion but I had her include a bunch of numbers on it just in case. I would get your fasteners before you drill the top 2 holes as the size may need to be adjusted.

Awesome, thanks for the drawing. I have all the parts, but was still having trouble deciding how to mount it until I saw your pics. I think I'll pick up some aluminum and give this a shot.
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:47 PM   #365
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Just got all of the various pieces for my GTO reservoir. Thank you to @flht99b and @2SSRS! Hopefully install will be finished tomorrow and I'll post some pics. This and a Barton shifter are the first mods since my stereo equipment went in.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:02 PM   #366
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Hope to see them.
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Old 05-07-2011, 12:22 AM   #367
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@2SSRS, @flht99b - I got my kit in the other day. Thanks so much for all of it, It was such a great idea! I went with flht99b's mounting location because it just seems to look much better that way. I haven't actually finished putting the clutch hose on it because I can't find a good way to get the fluid out of the reservoir.

Also, I had a question about bleeding the system. You switched out all your fluid in both the brakes and the clutch system, how exactly did you go about that? I would think you would just bleed all the fluid out of each wheel individually and fill it all up. Once filled bleed again to remove air from the system. I'm not too worried about the clutch system since I intend to swap the fluid regularly. Let me know if I've got the right idea, maybe even throw up a step-by-step if you feel like it

Also - is there any advantage to using DOT4 vs. DOT3? Other than the slightly higher boiling point?
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:12 PM   #368
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I'm in the midst of ordering this setup.... However locating a resevoir is ridiculiously hard!! I'm down to having to order one from my dealer and pay a shipping charge of 15.00 on top if it being 22.00. I have an email into GMpartsdirect.com to see if they have in stock, considering they're only about 100 miles from me, shipping shouldn't be too bad.
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:30 PM   #369
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I bought the GTO resevoir online from "Nook and Tranny". They cost a bit more that way but you can get your hands on it right now. I tried all the usual places but came up with no availabillity. Kind of hard to find on the web site but if you search for "RES-GMRCLUTCH" you will be able to load it in the cart.

OR keep searching for a better price elsewhere.

-Mark.
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:51 PM   #370
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All you had to do is PM me i have them all day long.
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:26 AM   #371
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If you decide to mount the GTO reservoir as I did, here are some installation tips / instructions.
Tools and supplies you’ll need are regular and needle nose pliers to get the factory clamps off the stock hose that runs from the clutch master/slave cylinder to the brake master cylinder reservoir. The clamp at the firewall ( clutch master cylinder ) can be a bit of a challenge but with patience it can be slid back on the hose. I used a medium sized needle nose pliers and plenty of light ( 53 year old eyes ) to release this clamp. You will re-use these clamps on the new hose, one at the new GTO clutch reservoir end, the other at the clutch master/slave cylinder end on the firewall.
You’ll need a right angle drill and a ¼” drill bit for the finish size holes ( 2 ) that you will drill in the factory vertical bracket that currently holds the positive battery cable. I started with an 1/8” pilot hole and then finished both holes with the ¼” drill bit. The mounting hardware with the shaft on it goes in from the front of the car side of the bracket that you drilled the holes in. In other words, the hardware parts I used with the shaft on it goes in so that the screws that screw in are on the GTO reservoir side. From the pictures I posted on the forum (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=34085&page=10 ) beginning with post # 237 you can see I made a template from sticky back paper by tracing the back of the GTO reservoir and put it on the positive battery cable mounting bracket perpendicular to the outer edge of the bracket so I could accurately locate the 2 mounting holes ( center punched so the 1/8” pilot hole would not wander ).
To temporarily remove the positive battery cable from the bracket, you undo the 3 snaps at the top ( red ) so the top part of the red cover comes off. Then you squeeze the black part of the plastic holder, squeeze the side closest to the firewall and pull up and the battery cable with the black plastic mount/cover slides up and off the metal bracket. I pushed it aside and wrapped it in a thick rag for safety. Once the GTO reservoir is installed, just slide the positive battery cable and it’s black holder back onto the bracket and snap the top red cover back on.
You’ll need DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, your choice. Factory is DOT3. I’ve upgraded both my brakes and clutch hydraulic systems to ATE Super Blue Racing DOT4 brake fluid for its higher boiling point. I have run 1 Autocross and 2 road courses with my car so I felt the higher boiling point of DOT4 was desirable.
You’ll need Phillips and/or flat head screw driver, the hardware I supply from Ace Hardware takes either type of screwdriver, you’ll use a screw driver at both ends of the mounting hardware. Once you see the hardware you’ll see what I mean. I also used a touch of blue Locktite on the mounting hardware for good measure.
You’ll need some method ( a motorcycle brake/fork syringe with a small hose on the end works best ) to remove the existing brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir. They can be found at motorcycle shops and I understand Wal-Mart carries them in the motorcycle section of the store.
You’ll need lots of rags, fender covers, paper, whatever to ensure brake fluid does not come in contact with any painted finish. You can get 99% of the existing brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir with the syringe very easily, there will be only a few drops of fluid left in the hose you are replacing so you can minimize the spillage of brake fluid to almost zero. Be sure NOT to pump the BRAKE pedal for any reason while you have the brake fluid removed from the brake reservoir, you could possibly introduce air into the system and then would have to bleed the master cylinder and/or entire brake system.
Once you’ve finished the installation, just top off the brake master cylinder reservoir and fill the new GTO clutch reservoir. Pump the clutch pedal several times, add fluid as necessary and you are good to go. There is no need to bleed the clutch or brake master cylinder unless you intend to flush all the fluid out of them.
There is no relocation of the battery cable with the mounting position and method I choose. If you are reasonably careful measuring and drilling the 2 reservoir mounting holes, the clutch reservoir will be dead level in both planes.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions. It’s really easy, just takes a bit of time and care. I spent weeks thinking about where and how I wanted to mount the reservoir ( wanted it to look OEM if possible ) and then more time tracking down the EPDM cap, EPDM hose and just the right hardware to mount the reservoir but the whole installation took less than 2 hours.
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:36 PM   #372
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TC and Imjaybird, (guys that mounted with brackets)....

Did you have to bleed any lines after modification? Any chance someone could give a how too for this? (sorry for noob question)
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:50 PM   #373
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TC and Imjaybird, (guys that mounted with brackets)....

Did you have to bleed any lines after modification? Any chance someone could give a how too for this? (sorry for noob question)
No....no need to bleed your lines unless you drain out all of your brake fluid. That's only optional if you wanted to change your fluid to a better brake fluid or something.

I didn't change my brake fluid or anything. Just took the hose off the mastercylinder, plugged it and then put the hose on the resivoir.
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:31 PM   #374
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I changed all the brake fluid, and all that i did was pump the brakes and the Clutch reservoir, Its been good for over a year+.
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:43 PM   #375
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ok, now the $37 question....

Will the ZL1 have separate reservoir or will this mod need to be done on this car as well?
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