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View Poll Results: T Tops or Carbon Fiber?
T Tops 14 73.68%
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:27 PM   #211
pyr0b0y
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Just signed up this afternoon for the Spectre 341 Challenge in Virginia City, NV. I plan on driving over there in a couple weeks to just drive the course and get a feel for it. Apparently Aaron Pfadt also entered the race as well as LG Motorsports. I'm really pumped to do this race!

http://www.spectre341challenge.com/

I'll also be stopping by Blu808 after work to find out how badly my car's messed up.....
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:08 PM   #212
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Originally Posted by pyr0b0y View Post
Just signed up this afternoon for the Spectre 341 Challenge in Virginia City, NV. I plan on driving over there in a couple weeks to just drive the course and get a feel for it. Apparently Aaron Pfadt also entered the race as well as LG Motorsports. I'm really pumped to do this race!

http://www.spectre341challenge.com/

I'll also be stopping by Blu808 after work to find out how badly my car's messed up.....
You better check their helmet spec, they might require an SA rated helmet! That sounds like fun.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:51 PM   #213
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Car ended up with a broken axle.

Watch out for wheel hop guys!
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:51 PM   #214
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Best way to avoid wheel hop is trailing arms, diff mount, sub frame bushings, and what else?
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:58 PM   #215
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Best way to avoid wheel hop is trailing arms, diff mount, sub frame bushings, and what else?
I have all of that stuff and still get the wheel hop doing a burnout at the track in the wetbox area like many others. I'm find on the street and at the line.

Which axle was it and your VIN Josh, the older ones has lots of problems with the axles.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:14 PM   #216
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Toe Rods, Trailings Arms & outer bushings is a good start. Also a soft sidewall like a true slick would be ideal to absorb alot of the energy but not realistic for most of us. I guess its always a chance when your at the track, but with all the news about half shafts snapping I picked up some heavy duty ones just incase.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:27 PM   #217
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Toe Rods, Trailings Arms & outer bushings is a good start. Also a soft sidewall like a true slick would be ideal to absorb alot of the energy but not realistic for most of us. I guess its always a chance when your at the track, but with all the news about half shafts snapping I picked up some heavy duty ones just incase.
You can see my video of some wheel hop while doing a burnout on the street the other day, it doesn't look like the axle is really moving all that much. SOme have said that the lowered cars are more prone to breaking them, I don't know about that.

The thing is, you just create a new weaker link if you replace the axles. The transmission output shafts are probably next and then the rear gears followed my the driveshaft. There's a picture of a shredded rubber driveshaft isolator in this months Hot Rod magazine.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:49 PM   #218
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I agree, the power has to go somewhere till eventually the whole car is reinforced or your bank account is empty, ha. I havent had any wheel hop in my car yet that I have felt, but the axles still concern me as well as the shaft on the tranny. Ive heard all the horror stories and its something Ive came to accept if the time comes. The safest bet would be to keep street tires on the car, but whats the fun in that. I remember beating on my old camaros so much at the track and they seemed bulletproof compared to this one or maybe I was just more ignorant about what could happen then, ha.
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:23 AM   #219
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We ran the entire 2009 Formula Drift season on stock axles, sub frame bushings, diff, cv joints, trailing arms, control arms, ect. There are 2 causes of wheel hop. Harmonics and oscillating power delivery. Similar to when you get speed wobble on a skateboard. Once the hop starts it amplifies itself. The stickier the tire the more force and damage it can apply to the suspension, axles, and drivetrain.

It doesn't have to be a problem. It just needs to be dialed out of the cars setup. Properly valved suspension is the first step towards eliminating wheel hop, second would be to remove the factory rubber weblos from the drive shaft, then the sub frame bushings, and trailing arms. Axles are a good idea to add to reliability and overall power delivery capabilities.

Luke
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:41 PM   #220
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We ran the entire 2009 Formula Drift season on stock axles, sub frame bushings, diff, cv joints, trailing arms, control arms, ect. There are 2 causes of wheel hop. Harmonics and oscillating power delivery. Similar to when you get speed wobble on a skateboard. Once the hop starts it amplifies itself. The stickier the tire the more force and damage it can apply to the suspension, axles, and drivetrain.

It doesn't have to be a problem. It just needs to be dialed out of the cars setup. Properly valved suspension is the first step towards eliminating wheel hop, second would be to remove the factory rubber weblos from the drive shaft, then the sub frame bushings, and trailing arms. Axles are a good idea to add to reliability and overall power delivery capabilities.

Luke
Do you replace the rubber on the driveshaft with anything?
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:32 AM   #221
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looks like i still havent made my mind up.....again! i can only go so far on 91 octane....so more than likely, ill be sending my current block out to get rebuilt so i can run more boost. it will probably take a couple weeks so I'll be selling my supercharger and getting a twin turbo setup, hopefully have it arrive around the same time my block gets back and get everything installed at the same time. It'll free up more money, so i'm gunna get a new clutch and a 1400hp axel for sure, probably new fuel system as well.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:09 AM   #222
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looks like i still havent made my mind up.....again! i can only go so far on 91 octane....so more than likely, ill be sending my current block out to get rebuilt so i can run more boost. it will probably take a couple weeks so I'll be selling my supercharger and getting a twin turbo setup, hopefully have it arrive around the same time my block gets back and get everything installed at the same time. It'll free up more money, so i'm gunna get a new clutch and a 1400hp axel for sure, probably new fuel system as well.
There are place in Redwood City and Sunole that have varius octane levels up to 110, who knows how much it costs.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:14 AM   #223
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ya the one in redwood city is about 15 mins away, but i travel to LA a hell of a lot and 100 was $6.79 last time i checked, its probably $9 or $10/gallon!
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:23 AM   #224
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If your shooting for 1000hp+ I would really consider the full 9in rear kit. If I had the money I would of went for it. It will address the weak posi issue, driveshaft, and axle issue at the same time. A couple of places making some really nice kits now.
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