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Old 05-03-2011, 12:03 AM   #201
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ordered a set of Nitto 555Rs today, 305s. they should be in later this week! found out the CF hood is a little further on backorder than expected, 6 WEEKS! but good new is that my CF guage pod and center bezel will ship next Friday .

cutouts will go on next week along with my new set of mufflers. Roll cage and harnesses should also be ready to go for the AutoX in marina on the 15th.

spoke more to my shop about getting a new engine. right now im probably gunna be getting a 418 stroker LS3. but i found out that since its a bigger engine the blower wont do as much as it is now. if i go down to smaller pulleys.....probably have about the same rwhp as now. so now i gotta look at switching to TT or a bigger supercharger. i see lots of people running prochargers, but then i would lose my tq #s as well. I love how the maggie has an even distro of hp and tq. also someone is running a 427 TT and has 793hp/8??tq. gotta do some more research.....any input?
The Auto-X is on the 21st, trying really hard to get my car ready.

I say that you should get a your bottom end built to boost specs so you can run 10 or more PSI. The maggie should be good to close to 1000hp I think!
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:22 AM   #202
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The Auto-X is on the 21st, trying really hard to get my car ready.

I say that you should get a your bottom end built to boost specs so you can run 10 or more PSI. The maggie should be good to close to 1000hp I think!
it says AutoX is on the 15th? do i have the right sight?

http://www.norcalufo.org/main/index....ents&Itemid=59

and btw im gunna call magnusen tomorrow and find out what i can do about swapping to the 10 rib setup with the smallest pulley setup they have....i no a couple people are running into belt slip problems.....yes i can go to 700-750 on the LS3 built, but it would be nice to do a stroker or something different....
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:15 AM   #203
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went out to the drag strip last night. made my first pass ever and got a 13.060, missing a gear with a HORRIBLE R/T. made a second pass and (i think) completely blew my clutch (hopefully thats all!). couldnt drive it at all so had to get it towed back to Blu808. my shop is in Atlanta for a FormulaD event and wont be back till Monday night. My car was scheduled to go in for work on tuesday anyways. As of right now, by the time i get my car back on the 14th, i'll have:

new clutch
roll cage
Sparco harness belts
electronic cutouts
new mufflers
steel braided brake lines
cross drilled/slotted rotors
carbon fiber center console bezel
carbon fiber dual gauge pod
Autometer AFR Gauge, Wideband meter
Nitto 555R Drag Radials
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:31 AM   #204
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Ouch, what rpms was you launching at? Also if you dont have a driveshaft loop on there yet for safety, you need one with that power & tracks require it. Good luck with the upgrades, sweet car man
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:52 AM   #205
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Ouch, what rpms was you launching at? Also if you dont have a driveshaft loop on there yet for safety, you need one with that power & tracks require it. Good luck with the upgrades, sweet car man
didnt look, but nothing higher than 2500 (for a split second), than got into it and it broke. that was my first time just flooring it from pretty much a stop. they told me i need a flameproof jacket and driveshaft safety loop before i come back.....
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:06 PM   #206
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finally decided on the type of engine im going with . its gunna be a 418 stroker LS3 with twin turbos. I decided on the 418 over the 427 because Texas Speed mentioned the 418 is moer applicable for boost rather than the 427, which is used more for N/A (at least the aluminum block is). Its not all going to happen at once, but ill have the engine built, installed, then sell my current block, sell the supercharger, then buy the twin turbo setup. For the twin turbo setup, i spoke with hellion and will be getting 61mm or 64mm ball bearing turbos to cut down on the turbo lag. The 61mm supports up to 1000hp, and the 64mm handles up to 1200rwhp. The injectors will need to be at least 80ft/lbs; more than likely ill go with 90 to be safe....more details to come later.....
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Old 05-06-2011, 05:48 PM   #207
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Originally Posted by pyr0b0y View Post
finally decided on the type of engine im going with . its gunna be a 418 stroker LS3 with twin turbos. I decided on the 418 over the 427 because Texas Speed mentioned the 418 is moer applicable for boost rather than the 427, which is used more for N/A (at least the aluminum block is). Its not all going to happen at once, but ill have the engine built, installed, then sell my current block, sell the supercharger, then buy the twin turbo setup. For the twin turbo setup, i spoke with hellion and will be getting 61mm or 64mm ball bearing turbos to cut down on the turbo lag. The 61mm supports up to 1000hp, and the 64mm handles up to 1200rwhp. The injectors will need to be at least 80ft/lbs; more than likely ill go with 90 to be safe....more details to come later.....
Very nice Josh!!
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Old 05-06-2011, 06:16 PM   #208
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hoping to get 1000 by my 21st bday in august lol
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Old 05-06-2011, 06:21 PM   #209
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hoping to get 1000 by my 21st bday in august lol
That's just crazy!! 1,000 at the crank or 1,000RWHP? Either way you're crazy.

Not that there is anything wrong with being crazy.
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Old 05-06-2011, 06:25 PM   #210
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1000hp @ the crank for sure! well have to see if my bank account has enough zeros left to get me up to 1000rwhp
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:27 PM   #211
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Just signed up this afternoon for the Spectre 341 Challenge in Virginia City, NV. I plan on driving over there in a couple weeks to just drive the course and get a feel for it. Apparently Aaron Pfadt also entered the race as well as LG Motorsports. I'm really pumped to do this race!

http://www.spectre341challenge.com/

I'll also be stopping by Blu808 after work to find out how badly my car's messed up.....
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:08 PM   #212
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Just signed up this afternoon for the Spectre 341 Challenge in Virginia City, NV. I plan on driving over there in a couple weeks to just drive the course and get a feel for it. Apparently Aaron Pfadt also entered the race as well as LG Motorsports. I'm really pumped to do this race!

http://www.spectre341challenge.com/

I'll also be stopping by Blu808 after work to find out how badly my car's messed up.....
You better check their helmet spec, they might require an SA rated helmet! That sounds like fun.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:51 PM   #213
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Car ended up with a broken axle.

Watch out for wheel hop guys!
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:51 PM   #214
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Best way to avoid wheel hop is trailing arms, diff mount, sub frame bushings, and what else?
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:58 PM   #215
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Best way to avoid wheel hop is trailing arms, diff mount, sub frame bushings, and what else?
I have all of that stuff and still get the wheel hop doing a burnout at the track in the wetbox area like many others. I'm find on the street and at the line.

Which axle was it and your VIN Josh, the older ones has lots of problems with the axles.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:14 PM   #216
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Toe Rods, Trailings Arms & outer bushings is a good start. Also a soft sidewall like a true slick would be ideal to absorb alot of the energy but not realistic for most of us. I guess its always a chance when your at the track, but with all the news about half shafts snapping I picked up some heavy duty ones just incase.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:27 PM   #217
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Toe Rods, Trailings Arms & outer bushings is a good start. Also a soft sidewall like a true slick would be ideal to absorb alot of the energy but not realistic for most of us. I guess its always a chance when your at the track, but with all the news about half shafts snapping I picked up some heavy duty ones just incase.
You can see my video of some wheel hop while doing a burnout on the street the other day, it doesn't look like the axle is really moving all that much. SOme have said that the lowered cars are more prone to breaking them, I don't know about that.

The thing is, you just create a new weaker link if you replace the axles. The transmission output shafts are probably next and then the rear gears followed my the driveshaft. There's a picture of a shredded rubber driveshaft isolator in this months Hot Rod magazine.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:49 PM   #218
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I agree, the power has to go somewhere till eventually the whole car is reinforced or your bank account is empty, ha. I havent had any wheel hop in my car yet that I have felt, but the axles still concern me as well as the shaft on the tranny. Ive heard all the horror stories and its something Ive came to accept if the time comes. The safest bet would be to keep street tires on the car, but whats the fun in that. I remember beating on my old camaros so much at the track and they seemed bulletproof compared to this one or maybe I was just more ignorant about what could happen then, ha.
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:23 AM   #219
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We ran the entire 2009 Formula Drift season on stock axles, sub frame bushings, diff, cv joints, trailing arms, control arms, ect. There are 2 causes of wheel hop. Harmonics and oscillating power delivery. Similar to when you get speed wobble on a skateboard. Once the hop starts it amplifies itself. The stickier the tire the more force and damage it can apply to the suspension, axles, and drivetrain.

It doesn't have to be a problem. It just needs to be dialed out of the cars setup. Properly valved suspension is the first step towards eliminating wheel hop, second would be to remove the factory rubber weblos from the drive shaft, then the sub frame bushings, and trailing arms. Axles are a good idea to add to reliability and overall power delivery capabilities.

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Old 05-11-2011, 10:41 PM   #220
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We ran the entire 2009 Formula Drift season on stock axles, sub frame bushings, diff, cv joints, trailing arms, control arms, ect. There are 2 causes of wheel hop. Harmonics and oscillating power delivery. Similar to when you get speed wobble on a skateboard. Once the hop starts it amplifies itself. The stickier the tire the more force and damage it can apply to the suspension, axles, and drivetrain.

It doesn't have to be a problem. It just needs to be dialed out of the cars setup. Properly valved suspension is the first step towards eliminating wheel hop, second would be to remove the factory rubber weblos from the drive shaft, then the sub frame bushings, and trailing arms. Axles are a good idea to add to reliability and overall power delivery capabilities.

Luke
Do you replace the rubber on the driveshaft with anything?
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:32 AM   #221
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looks like i still havent made my mind up.....again! i can only go so far on 91 octane....so more than likely, ill be sending my current block out to get rebuilt so i can run more boost. it will probably take a couple weeks so I'll be selling my supercharger and getting a twin turbo setup, hopefully have it arrive around the same time my block gets back and get everything installed at the same time. It'll free up more money, so i'm gunna get a new clutch and a 1400hp axel for sure, probably new fuel system as well.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:09 AM   #222
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looks like i still havent made my mind up.....again! i can only go so far on 91 octane....so more than likely, ill be sending my current block out to get rebuilt so i can run more boost. it will probably take a couple weeks so I'll be selling my supercharger and getting a twin turbo setup, hopefully have it arrive around the same time my block gets back and get everything installed at the same time. It'll free up more money, so i'm gunna get a new clutch and a 1400hp axel for sure, probably new fuel system as well.
There are place in Redwood City and Sunole that have varius octane levels up to 110, who knows how much it costs.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:14 AM   #223
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ya the one in redwood city is about 15 mins away, but i travel to LA a hell of a lot and 100 was $6.79 last time i checked, its probably $9 or $10/gallon!
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:23 AM   #224
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If your shooting for 1000hp+ I would really consider the full 9in rear kit. If I had the money I would of went for it. It will address the weak posi issue, driveshaft, and axle issue at the same time. A couple of places making some really nice kits now.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:26 AM   #225
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If your shooting for 1000hp+ I would really consider the full 9in rear kit. If I had the money I would of went for it. It will address the weak posi issue, driveshaft, and axle issue at the same time. A couple of places making some really nice kits now.
That and smaller brakes so you can get some good racing slicks on the back. Don't forget to order a line lock kit, you will need it to heat up the drag radials. The 555s are just a slippery as the stock tires when they are cold.
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