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Old 02-17-2011, 10:11 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth_Emma View Post
Great article, thanks, Spike.

I've just started reading about nitrous and meth injection. I understand both increase oxygen intake and cool things down to increase performance.

Can someone explain in noob terms what the differences are between meth and nitrous? I mean, I'm trying to figure out if one of these is better for my application and goals. Is mitrous better for TT cars, whereas meth is better for SC cars?

I've done some searching and I find articles on each set up, but I'd like to find something that compares them.
Meth and nitrous are two totally different animals.

Nitrous is an oxidizer that combined with fuel is a power adder. It cools the intake charge because it is cold when it comes out. You can make a lot of hp with it. I have a buddy who squeezes a 500 shot all the time and can go higher than that.

Methanol is a fuel that supplements more power. It is usually combined with water and together their rate of evaporation and latency help cool the intake charge. Also, methanol is like 120 octane. With the higher octane and cooler intake charge temperature you can add more timing and/or boost to make more power. Typically you can see up to 50 hp on a forced induction setup.
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:21 PM   #44
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I'm seriously thinking of putting nitrous on my 2010 SS (m6/ls3) but I'm curious as to how much I should be spraying. what supportin modifications i might need and how I'm supposed to tune it.
I have CAI and minor exhaust work. I also know that the LS7 fuel injectors that I have stock should be able to handle a decent load.
I'm good at tuning with a DST (DiabloSport Trinity) but I'm used to tuning turbo'ed applications. Never turned for nitrous before. I assume I will need to move on to another tuning system..

So I did go ahead and order the nitrous kit. I ordered a NX wet/plate system and the upgrade package.. I'm jetted for 150-shot and tuned with 5.5degrees of timing pulled and AFRs set. I have to say nitrous is the best bang for the buck. My entire kit with upgrades and wideband O2 only cost around $1,500... which beats the hell out of any turbo or supercharger kit.

The car takes the 150-shot great. (Though I think it would be better if I removed the converters out of my exhaust)

For the person that ask about where everyone is mounting switches.. I mounted both arming switches (master arm and bottle warmer) as well as the purge button along the side of the center console. (Yes this did require drilling).. works great for me.. I launch 1st gear then right after I grab second gear i reach down and flip the master arm back on.. car has a few traction issues with the nitrous.. hopefully this set of NT05Rs I just ordered will fix this.
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:44 PM   #45
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is the bottle warmer necessary for a place like Las Vegas? Should it be on whenever I want to spray, or just when I want to spray in the winter time?
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:30 PM   #46
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is the bottle warmer necessary for a place like Las Vegas? Should it be on whenever I want to spray, or just when I want to spray in the winter time?

On a full bottle probably not.. but as the bottle starts to get down to a half or lower it comes in useful. N2O is best at about 1,150psi. A full bottle at 90ish degrees for me is getting 950psi. Once the sun goes down and I'm in about the third round of an EFI shootout with only a half bottle left I can't get over 600psi without a bottle warmer.. (600psi isn't even enough to frost the air when I purge.. and would only give me like a 40hp - 60hp jump instead of the 150 I'm jetted for)

As far as when you have it on.. I have mine on whenever my bottle is open. I have the NX automatic heater. It keeps mine at 1,150psi. (just don't ever turn it on with the bottle closed)


On a side note. My Nitto NT05Rs did help with my traction issue.. I'm now launching on the bottle.. I cut a 1.83 60ft and went 9.76 in the 1,000ft. Tried to launch from a higher RPM to get my 60ft into the 1.7x range.. but unfortunatly my passenger side halfshaft disagreed with me... it got replaced this afternoon.
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:40 PM   #47
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If you search YouTube, you'll find way too many videos showing disastrous explosions on cars using Nitrous! These happen to people who know what they're doing...imagine what would happen if I tried it....LOL, no, that would not be funny!!!
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Old 04-16-2011, 01:19 AM   #48
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Only time I have ever seen them blow up was from back fire or leak. Sometimes even the people that know what they are doing try to push it a little to far with the timing.. Also leaking solenoids can flood the intake manifold with n2o and when you go to start the motor.. boom.

I know alot of people that have been spraying motors for years.. one of them has an LS2 on a 350 shot. He has never had a nitrous backfire.
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:12 AM   #49
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Just got a zex kit for my SS, we will see what happens.. I'm holding off on the install until I grab a cam, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, ported oil pump and axles.

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Old 09-12-2011, 01:33 PM   #50
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Need Help!

I'm thinking of putting a Nitrous Plate System on my 2010 SS. (150 shots)
My question is Can I use NItrous Outlet Progressive Controller (part# 202-00-6101) to correct the timing and the airfuel?
or do I have to get a Time Delay Box ?
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:35 PM   #51
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I have the NO Progressive and it does not adjust timing or fuel. To adjust the fuel you change jets. And to adjust timing you can reflash the PCM, use the IAT resister mod, EFIL COS or the LNC-002(or similar timing box).

The progressive does have a built in electronic TPS, window switch, progressive nitrous ramp and gear lockout though which are very helpful if you have traction problems.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:13 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRT10KLLR View Post
I have the NO Progressive and it does not adjust timing or fuel. To adjust the fuel you change jets. And to adjust timing you can reflash the PCM, use the IAT resister mod, EFIL COS or the LNC-002(or similar timing box).

The progressive does have a built in electronic TPS, window switch, progressive nitrous ramp and gear lockout though which are very helpful if you have traction problems.
Hmmm...So pretty much I need a 'Delay Box' if I dont want to reflash my PCM. How does the tuning work when your not on the bottle?
Would a 'nitrous outlet mini digi-set time delay' work? is there a device that will pull my timing before a run, and put my timing back to stock

Last edited by jlugo; 09-13-2011 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:15 PM   #53
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As for the nitrous backfire a friend of mine ran a 150 shot in his mustang older stock 5.0 every day all the time his bottle was filled no problems at all when his car passed 200000 mile mark he had his nos on just for kicks that car never had a problem sold the car running great pure stock 5.0 his was a wet kit he did tell me only go with a wet kit they are the best and safest? I plan to put a 150 shot on my 2010 camaro 2s pure stock a 150 wet kit should be fine without any worries.
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:16 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by jlugo View Post
Hmmm...So pretty much I need a 'Delay Box' if I dont want to reflash my PCM. How does the tuning work when your not on the bottle?
Would a 'nitrous outlet mini digi-set time delay' work? is there a device that will pull my timing before a run, and put my timing back to stock
Never used it and had not even hear of it till now. But, it looks like it delays when the nitrous activates vs actually pulling timing.

If you don't want to reflash the PCM then you will need a timing box like the one I posted.

You could use the IAT trick but you would still need to set it up in your tune.
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:23 PM   #55
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I want to kill my last write up two messages ago the old mustang did have forged pistons after researching my camaro ss i see the pistons are pretty crappy for nos I would not do it with cast pistons just a fruit for thought after reading they are cast i immediatly thought damn i hope my writeup did not make somebody go try this I have learned that the stock pistons in the camaros L99/Ls3 engines have problems with cracking the powdered rods should be ok if you are running stock pistons cause the pistons will break first but I will say I just would not try it I work with castings and forgings and know how they are and will only say forgings are great casting have a high percent that dont pass pmi for internal cracks. I would like to hear from anyone useing nos on the stock motor and how much you are getting away with for now? I have been searching for a dropin piston kit for these motors with no luck yet. my goal is to change the rods and pistons and run a 175 shot with a tune pretty simple the stock crank is fine now is not so hard on cranks they are much stronger than rods and pistons.
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Old 09-24-2011, 07:44 PM   #56
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WOW, Great info everyone. I started reading and by the time I finished ALL my questions about running nitrous have been answered.
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