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Old 04-03-2009, 01:24 AM   #18
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nice subs how much
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:40 AM   #19
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those subs arnt that great lol.. walmart subs. probably 100 bucks a pop..
if you want some really good and cheap subs go with dc sound lab..
http://dcsoundlab.com/specs.html
contact them for some really good subs and the dustcaps can be special ordered any color..
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Old 04-03-2009, 09:45 AM   #20
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I've never been a fan of caps...like another post said, just masks the problem. I drive my system hard too so not too surprised this is happening.

My A/V guy wants to redo the system but of course that takes money which is all going towards my new SS/RS. Besides, anytime he touchs my vehicles the bill has never been less than a $1K.

I'm using the BA Pro components in my Avy now...tweets are just a bit "bright" but sounds good. If you want a system that will just blow your mind, sonically correct, and just sounds incredible you should listen to the DynAudio component setup....it is by far the best I've ever heard....but a bit pricy for most folks.
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Old 04-03-2009, 09:55 AM   #21
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A cap is completely garbage and a waste of time... better off buying a second battery and doing the big3.


AND NEVER EVER EVER connect the amps neg to the batt's neg all the way upfront.. thats asking for a fire... run a 150amp fuse from the power wire off the batt to the amp about 18 inchs from the batt. then ground off the amp as soon as possible to the body of the car.. sand down to bare metal..
http://www.kinetikaudio.com/default.asp
batts they will save you in the long run... caps are just a bandaid to the rest of your system..
You're serious? A capacitor is exactly the solution this guy needs to solve the problem of dimming lights. Battery's are not designed to be quickly discharged over and over. This kind of use quickly diminishes the battery's life, even if it is a deep cycle battery.

And since the battery for the Camaro is in the trunk right next to where his amps are going to be, he's not really risking a fire by connecting the ground to the battery's negative terminal because the ground wire won't be that long. I don't know if that'll harm the battery at all, though, because I'm not familiar with that kind of situation. I've never had a battery that close to my amps before to even try attaching the ground wire directly to the battery.
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Old 04-03-2009, 09:56 AM   #22
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Well if you want to start talking sounds i have alot to say. yes alot of people are right that amps will say 2000watts but really only 500 watts on a good day. now it all depends on what you want do you want clarity or ghetto base. now clarity i am talking rooling down the street with your windows up system cranked to 25 and you hear the lyrics and the base clearly. or you can go with just windows up and car rattiling and muffled sound. go check out www.hertzaudiovideo.com now these two brands are insane. pricey but worth it. i only have one 12" hertz es 300 running off a 6.900 arc audio amp and at 4 ohms i am only putting out 155 watts rms and people can't belive how loud it is. i hit 127dbs and you can also hear the lyrics clearly. like a home theater with out a sub clear and i am running avi components for that. check it out. also check out sightwaves.com for ordering any of the stuff
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Old 04-03-2009, 10:19 AM   #23
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You're serious? A capacitor is exactly the solution this guy needs to solve the problem of dimming lights. Battery's are not designed to be quickly discharged over and over. This kind of use quickly diminishes the battery's life, even if it is a deep cycle battery.

And since the battery for the Camaro is in the trunk right next to where his amps are going to be, he's not really risking a fire by connecting the ground to the battery's negative terminal because the ground wire won't be that long. I don't know if that'll harm the battery at all, though, because I'm not familiar with that kind of situation. I've never had a battery that close to my amps before to even try attaching the ground wire directly to the battery.
a cap does not send a clean power to the amp and if that cap gets below 11 voltWHICH IT WILL.. that amp will go up in smoke.. caps are just a bandaid..that link i posted are bats MADE for sound systems... right now i just ordered 4 batts from them for my new system... i had a 40 farad cap in my truck and the lights still dimmed with 2400 watts rms...
batt is the only safe way to go.. and it doesnt matter if the batt is 10 inchs away from the amp you always want the best possible ground you can get... and where do you get that... The body itself...
and read the little note on the site i posted... it will take 100 farads to equal ONE 600cell batt.. so you will spend 100 dollars on a 1 farad cap or 200 on a batt??? that is 100 times as powerfull i just bought 4 of the hc16s and there great... and lots of power..
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Old 04-03-2009, 12:14 PM   #24
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A battery cannot discharge as fast as a capacitor.

But isn't it true that you can remove a car battery after the car has been starting? So headlight dimming wouldn't be a battery issue it would be an alternator issue.
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Old 04-03-2009, 01:08 PM   #25
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A battery cannot discharge as fast as a capacitor.

But isn't it true that you can remove a car battery after the car has been starting? So headlight dimming wouldn't be a battery issue it would be an alternator issue.
a batt can discharge faster if you buy a 16v batt but the speed that is required to discharge is not needed for sound systems..
and yes you can unhook them but you will most likely FRY the electric system.. the first tip is to run a bigger batt up front(or in back for this case) and a bigger one in the back.. then upgrade the alt to something like a 250amp (300 or above is way to hard to spin and keep cool)... or if you get h.i.ds you wont get that much of a dim because the hids require almost half the power (35 volts compared to 55)

This is a team mates hhr and its load thats a hifonics TEN THOUSAND WATT RMS AMP..
look at how many batterys he needs.. NOT ONE SINGLE CAP.
and he hits 149.9 db daily.. he is pushing 155db...



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Old 04-03-2009, 01:55 PM   #26
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the MTX sledgehammers i want to put in the Camaro wont fit. It runs 800 rms combined, would be destruction. but with the rear speakers, you only have about 13 and a half inches of clearence for a box, im going to have to go custom now for my Camaro
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:20 AM   #27
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well hate to say it but hifonics is cheap and i know that that amp is not pushing 10,000 watts rms more like 10,000 giga watts. all the battery is good for is how long you plan on playing your system with out the car on. second yes upgrade the alt and that is one way to get rid of dimming lights. what is happening is your system is pulling more voltage then your alt can put out which is going to cause your battery to drain and die also your alt is going to give out cause you are pulling to much from it. and 155.db is nothing for 4 subs. like i said i am pushing 127db with one 12" with only 155watts guess set up and brand makes a difference
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:35 PM   #28
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well hate to say it but hifonics is cheap and i know that that amp is not pushing 10,000 watts rms more like 10,000 giga watts. all the battery is good for is how long you plan on playing your system with out the car on. second yes upgrade the alt and that is one way to get rid of dimming lights. what is happening is your system is pulling more voltage then your alt can put out which is going to cause your battery to drain and die also your alt is going to give out cause you are pulling to much from it. and 155.db is nothing for 4 subs. like i said i am pushing 127db with one 12" with only 155watts guess set up and brand makes a difference

HiFonics used to be the best and most powerful amps back in the 90's. The 2nd gen amps as shown in that pic were not the best, but I do not doubt the 10k RMS rating.

As an example I hit 144db with 2 12" JL-W3's in my Firebird with only a "500 watt" 1st gen HiFonics amp.
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:28 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by 1_2Many View Post
HiFonics used to be the best and most powerful amps back in the 90's. The 2nd gen amps as shown in that pic were not the best, but I do not doubt the 10k RMS rating.

As an example I hit 144db with 2 12" JL-W3's in my Firebird with only a "500 watt" 1st gen HiFonics amp.
Wow. Well whatever you, and all the others on this thread, end up doing, PLEASE put in in that new member journal section, so i can copy your work, as i know nothing about systems.
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:59 AM   #30
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you know for some reason i never really hear about ma audio but i got one of their amps like 2 years ago and its an amazing amp. its 1400 watts rms at 2 omhs and 17.7 volts and it has a digital readout of volts, output, and temp and i bought the amp for only like 175 brand new, yeah its not the greatest or best brand but for the money it was a pretty good buy
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:03 PM   #31
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I'm going with 2 of these in the trunk of my Camaro

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/ca...product_id=374

They are 12" subs with tuned passive radiators...each one puts out the power and db of a 15" sub. Two of these babies is going to be just ridiculous. I'll have 400 watts RMS per sub going to them for now and if that's not enough I'll upgrade.

I figure these are perfect for the Camaro considering the small trunk opening. I'll put one in at a time and position them in the best sounding spot.

How much?
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Old 04-28-2009, 01:31 AM   #32
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Depends upon what you are trying to achieve, SQ or SPL. Start with quality components up front, anchored by a deep, tight low end. Boston Pros are nice, but I prefer the Rally Series. Probably go with BA or MB quarts up front, Diamonds in the back. I have a few amps in my arsenal as well...
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Old 04-28-2009, 11:43 AM   #33
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i'll be running 2 of these:
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:03 AM   #34
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If you're looking to upgrade the system I would recommend the system that GM is going to offer from MTX as an upgrade. From what I've read about it it sounds extremely bulletproof and for the price it would be hard to get a better custom system installed.

If you're looking to increase your electrical system I recommend adding a Kinetik battery over a cap or yellow top. Yellow tops have a higher resting voltage making it normally difficult for a factory charging system to ever fully charge the battery causing the battery to fail prematurely and really damper the performance of your system. Kinetik offers all sorts of sizes and power of batteries so if you don't have the room for a full size extra battery you can go with something smaller. A good example is that their smallest battery is the HC600 which is a bit more power of the Optima red top at half the size and 100x more powerful than a 1 Farad cap.

I'll try to get more info on that MTX system tomorrow
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