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Old 11-13-2009, 08:29 AM   #26
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a plus for living in georgia, no need for a front plate
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Old 11-25-2009, 05:33 AM   #27
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I'm looking at getting the motorized plate, but would like to wire it so that it pops up/out when I turn the car on and tucks in/away when I turn the car off. Kinda like the old school antennas used to... any ideas as to what I can splice into in order to make this happen?
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:19 PM   #28
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i live in L.A.

every cobra, camaro, corvette, etc rolls around with tinted windows, NOS bottles, no-cat exhaust, 130db sounds systems,

its illegal in california to roll without a license plate but cops dont even get you for that anymore around here
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Old 01-01-2010, 06:37 PM   #29
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I just want to say thanks for this thread as I just installed mine today on my car and I love this feature. I will admit the hide away plate is somewhat pointless, but it is fun and cool. Once I get a chance I will post some pictures of what I did for mine. Thanks again, great info and fairly easy install!
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:49 PM   #30
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I would also like to connect to be automatic with start-up. Anyone have any ideas what to splice into so we don't have to use a remote or push a btton?
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Old 02-13-2010, 09:20 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradosaurus View Post
Unless you show your car I don't get the hide-away function.

If the front plate is required by law then just mount on front and be done with.

Actually with a personalized license plate I want to showcase it on the front.

To each their own.

I bought the manual one because I wanted something that mounted on the bottom, where the holes wouldn't be visible. I just can't bring myself to drill holes in the front bumper.
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:30 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYG71 View Post
Good write-up. I just installed mine this afternoon. Took 2 hours, very simple. Now I am legit.
How is it working out for you?
Do you have pic's of it installed?
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Old 05-27-2010, 07:52 PM   #33
rdono
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I have one I am not going to use as it will not work with GFX. never installed, new in box - send me a PM if you want it, I will make you a long deal.
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Old 07-05-2010, 10:41 PM   #34
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please take a picture of it in hide away mode, looking down on bumper

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmicro_SS View Post
Well, I waited a few weeks for this product because I was told it was so busy that they were on Back Order. It was $150.00 shipped. From Here: http://www.swiftmotorsports.com/prod...9f31e771cba318

Here is the Video of my car, Note:The Plate frame is bouncing when lowering due to extra weight of Chrome Plate frame I installed:



This project only took about 2 hours, but that is because of placement decisions and some Camaro Specific things that were not on the directions. So I thought I would post what I did and how it came out here, to help my fellow Camaro Brothers out. Here are the Steps I took. And you can see the descriptive pics I put below to support what I write here.

1 - Open Hood, Put double Sided Tape on Back of Module
2 - Place on left Sidewall, Under hood(See pics)
3 - Drop Control Wires down to the ground (double wire with clip on end) to inside of wheel well cover
4 - Jack car up at this point
5 - Place Masking tape under car where installing to mark area to drill
6 - Pull Plate holder slowly forward so it pops up
7 - Find Placement and mark three holes (as per instructions)
8 - Drill Holes (per Instructions)
9 - Run the wire through, from back to front, between the black plastic lip and painted fascia on the left side
10 - Properly Place wires on motor connectors (as per directions)
11 - Cap Wires and Motor, using supplied cover, and use ZipTie (Per directions)
12 - Remove the two Fascia Bolts under the front fascia (SS MODEL)
13 - Use the Black Screws and the Black Rectangular Flat Nuts to install...Not the stupid rubber sleeves they tell you to use!!
14 - Place your hand , while holding Flat Nut, through the dropped lower lip and hold over the very front drilled holes.
15 - screw through the frame holes into the flat nuts, your holding, to get good secure attachment.
15 - Adjust frame as needed (front to back so that the plate stands up straight and screw tight.
16 - Replace 2 Factory, under Fascia Screws back
17 - Tuck Wire under Black Lip hanging from fascia, nice and neat (See pics)
18 - Let's Wire it up. Lower Car and remove Jack.
19 - First the ground. Attach the black groud wire to the screw holding the plastic radiator surround in (See Pics). Remove the screw completely and put the ring connector under the plastic.
20 - Very Important to make sure the INSIDE OF THE RING TERMINAL MAKES CONTACT WITH THE SCREW as you put the screw back!!!! Or you will not get ground and therefore no power!!
21 - Open the Fuse box and attach the red lead to the main hot terminal by unscrewing slightly and slipping the terminal under it enough for it to bite. The terminal connector will NOT fit over the post so no reason to remove the nut on there completely! Close the fusebox.
22 - Use the supplied wire harness wrap to wrap up all the extra wire and use electrical tape to secure it to the factory harness. You can also use a zip tie to pull up the excess wire going down to the frame and zip tie it to the harness you just created.
23 - Run the little wire antennae between the two body panels that go toward the strut towers (see pic).
24 - Use the remote to test and see if the frame is working. If not, check the ground.....Make sure it is making contact with the screw. You may need to bare the screw slightly with some sandpaper if you are not getting proper ground.
25- Position the foam stopper on the back of the plate holder as per directions!

You are done! Enjoy and I hope this helped!
Do you have a picture of it, in hide away mode looking right
down on it so I can see how far it comes out?
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Old 10-10-2010, 10:45 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro68 View Post
Do you have a picture of it, in hide away mode looking right
down on it so I can see how far it comes out?
Look straight down from the SS badge and you can see how far it sticks out...not much if you mount as far back as possible.

Follow the directions from Xmicro_SS. He was spot on.
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Old 01-20-2011, 07:42 PM   #36
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Thanks it dose work great, when
I get a chance I will post a thread
with pictures of it.

Thanks again fellows
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:13 PM   #37
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Thanks man, I have been trying to get a good ground for my motorized plate for the last 4 hours and I could not find a good ground then came across your thread and tried the ground you used and works like a charm,

I have the GFX and I works and looks fine BTW.
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:21 PM   #38
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Amazing how a thread is a gift that keeps on giving. Glad I could still be helping members over a year later.
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:47 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markssylver View Post
can that be mounted in the middle?

You can always tell a states intelligence by whether or not they have two plates/tags or just one. Duhhhhhh....I wonder which would cost the state less money? IDIOT STATES!!!
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Old 04-08-2011, 04:09 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIVE-O View Post
You can always tell a states intelligence by whether or not they have two plates/tags or just one. Duhhhhhh....I wonder which would cost the state less money? IDIOT STATES!!!
Government and Logic/Intelligence rarely go hand-in-hand unless you're a Corporation.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:42 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmicro_SS View Post
Well, I waited a few weeks for this product because I was told it was so busy that they were on Back Order. It was $150.00 shipped. From Here: http://www.swiftmotorsports.com/prod...9f31e771cba318

Here is the Video of my car, Note:The Plate frame is bouncing when lowering due to extra weight of Chrome Plate frame I installed:



This project only took about 2 hours, but that is because of placement decisions and some Camaro Specific things that were not on the directions. So I thought I would post what I did and how it came out here, to help my fellow Camaro Brothers out. Here are the Steps I took. And you can see the descriptive pics I put below to support what I write here.

1 - Open Hood, Put double Sided Tape on Back of Module
2 - Place on left Sidewall, Under hood(See pics)
3 - Drop Control Wires down to the ground (double wire with clip on end) to inside of wheel well cover
4 - Jack car up at this point
5 - Place Masking tape under car where installing to mark area to drill
6 - Pull Plate holder slowly forward so it pops up
7 - Find Placement and mark three holes (as per instructions)
8 - Drill Holes (per Instructions)
9 - Run the wire through, from back to front, between the black plastic lip and painted fascia on the left side
10 - Properly Place wires on motor connectors (as per directions)
11 - Cap Wires and Motor, using supplied cover, and use ZipTie (Per directions)
12 - Remove the two Fascia Bolts under the front fascia (SS MODEL)
13 - Use the Black Screws and the Black Rectangular Flat Nuts to install...Not the stupid rubber sleeves they tell you to use!!
14 - Place your hand , while holding Flat Nut, through the dropped lower lip and hold over the very front drilled holes.
15 - screw through the frame holes into the flat nuts, your holding, to get good secure attachment.
15 - Adjust frame as needed (front to back so that the plate stands up straight and screw tight.
16 - Replace 2 Factory, under Fascia Screws back
17 - Tuck Wire under Black Lip hanging from fascia, nice and neat (See pics)
18 - Let's Wire it up. Lower Car and remove Jack.
19 - First the ground. Attach the black groud wire to the screw holding the plastic radiator surround in (See Pics). Remove the screw completely and put the ring connector under the plastic.
20 - Very Important to make sure the INSIDE OF THE RING TERMINAL MAKES CONTACT WITH THE SCREW as you put the screw back!!!! Or you will not get ground and therefore no power!!
21 - Open the Fuse box and attach the red lead to the main hot terminal by unscrewing slightly and slipping the terminal under it enough for it to bite. The terminal connector will NOT fit over the post so no reason to remove the nut on there completely! Close the fusebox.
22 - Use the supplied wire harness wrap to wrap up all the extra wire and use electrical tape to secure it to the factory harness. You can also use a zip tie to pull up the excess wire going down to the frame and zip tie it to the harness you just created.
23 - Run the little wire antennae between the two body panels that go toward the strut towers (see pic).
24 - Use the remote to test and see if the frame is working. If not, check the ground.....Make sure it is making contact with the screw. You may need to bare the screw slightly with some sandpaper if you are not getting proper ground.
25- Position the foam stopper on the back of the plate holder as per directions!

You are done! Enjoy and I hope this helped!
Great job
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:19 AM   #42
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I tried installing this on my car. I wasn't impressed on how far the track stuck out the front.
If anyone would like to purchase this from me, PM me and I'll sell it cheaper than what I bought it for + shipping. It does have an extra hole in the track for mounting.
I zip tied the front plate holder on and can remove it for shows.
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:51 PM   #43
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i seen one on a camaro with the ground effect on youtube
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Old 10-29-2011, 04:27 PM   #44
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Quote:
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i seen one on a camaro with the ground effect on youtube
Has anyone else installed this with the GM gfx?
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Old 07-06-2012, 10:31 PM   #45
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And I hate to drag threads from the dead, but....

Anyone ever come up with a pulse idea to trigger an open/close event with key on/off?

Just didn't want to reinvent the wheel if some ELSE already did it!
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