Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Kraft Werks
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Camaro DIY & HOW-TO instructions & discussions

Camaro DIY & HOW-TO instructions & discussions All DIY projects & discussions

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 12-05-2011, 07:27 PM   #1
JDP Tech

 
JDP Tech's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/RS 429 LSX/F1X
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 427
JDP Motorsports' 2010+ Camaro SS Fuel Line Retrofit DIY

The JDP Motorsports 2010 and up Camaro SS Fuel Line Retrofit Kit is now available, and here is the do-it-yourself instructions for installation

This retrofit of a new fuel line is an excellent way of making your engine bay cleaner and look more like a muscle car engine bay! This, in addition to the JDP Motorsports' 2010-11 SS Heater Hose 2012 Update will make your Camaro SS's engine bay look the best on the block, with an actual good looking engine staring at you!

Tools needed:
3/8" AC/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool (Optionally included with kit)
10mm 1/4" Deep Socket
8mm 1/4" Socket
1/4" Ratchet
Torque wrench and socket is highly suggested
  1. Remove the engine cover (if present) by removing the oil filler cap, lifting the front of the cover, and pulling forward and up. Reinstall oil cap.

    .
  2. On the passenger side of the engine, you'll see where the fuel line connects to the main body fuel line. Remove the clip that holds it locked on. Using a screw driver to pop the top part out, then push down and out to completely remove.

    .
  3. Using the AC/Fuel line tool, disconnect the engine fuel line from the main fuel line, above the passenger side frame rail (Do not disconnect it from the engine side yet). Insert the tool onto the line, push tool into the connection fitting, push the engine fuel line into the tool, then pull the engine fuel line out and off. Fuel will spill out, so you can have a rag or something to catch it, but it will evaporate quickly. Just make sure you don't drip it onto the coils, spark plug wires, or headers. Position the line to allow it to continue dripping safely.

    (Pictures are for a representation)



    .
  4. Now with a 10mm deep socket, remove the nut holding the fuel rail on the passenger side of the intake manifold, and unclip the plastic clip on the drivers side.

    .
  5. Now disconnect the fuel rail at engine, on the drivers side using the same method. You'll want to use a rag to catch the fuel that comes out (there will still be a lot). You don't want fuel to get on the coils if at all possible.

    .
  6. When the rail is completely disconnected, leave the rag there, as fuel will continue to come out of the rail, and remove the rail completely, taking care to not spill fuel.

    .
  7. The injector wiring harnesses are attached to the fuel rail at 4 points, two on each side. Pop these attachments out of the fuel rail. Most will just pull out, but you can use a tool to pry them out easier.

    .
  8. Now disconnect all fuel injector electrical plugs.

    First, slide the lock upward.

    Then push the button, and pull off.

    .
  9. Now if applicable, you need to remove the rear cross-ladder type thing on the back of the intake manifold. With a 10mm socket, remove the nut on the front of it.

    .
  10. With the nut gone, pull up on the drivers side, and pull off from the passenger side rail.
    .
  11. Now with an 8mm socket, completely loosen the 4 rear bolts on the intake manifold (2 on each side).


    .
  12. Now if applicable, Remove the 8mm intake manifold bolt, 10mm fuel rail studded bolt, and ground bracket on the drivers side.

    .
  13. Now remove the fuel rail by removing the remaining 3 10mm studded bolts that hold the fuel rail, then wiggle and pulling on the rails, if needed, you can gently pry the rail up with something, but ensure you don't crush whatever you pry against! The injectors will come with the rail. The rail will have to come out from underneath the rear brackets.


    .
  14. Make sure all injectors have the bottom o-rings on them; if any are missing, retrieve them from the engine (they will usually be sitting in the injector hole) and reattach to the injectors.

    .
  15. Now, if applicable and if you want, remove the intake manifold clamshell by lifting it up and off.

    .
  16. Now loosen and remove all intake manifold bolts. The rear 2 bolts will not come out. If you do not have a torque wrench available to you, you can feel how tight these bolts are, for later use.

    .
  17. We now need to lift and pull forward the intake manifold a few inches, so disconnect the throttle body electrical connector and the MAP sensor connector, and if wanted or needed, remove the the intake tube from the airbox. I did not need to remove it on this car, but others may require it. You may also want to disconnect the oil pressure sending unit immediately behind the manifold too, it can get in the way of the brake booster vacuum hose, especially if you leave the clamshell on. There is a gray locking tab on it that must be lifted up, then you can press the button and disconnect the sensor. Everything else seemed to give the needed length, but it may vary on other cars.

    .
  18. Lift the back end of the manifold first, as high as you can, then the front, then carefully pull the manifold forward a few inches. We're looking for enough clearance for the rear manifold bolt on the passenger side to come out. Once there, remove the bolt, remove the bracket it holds down, and reinstall the bolt in the same place. Leave the drivers side bolt and bracket as is.

    .
  19. Once the bracket is out, and bolt back in place, move the manifold back to position, then set it back down on the engine, making sure all hoses, wires, etc are out from underneath the manifold. The biggest area of concern I could see is the front drivers side where a wiring harness could get caught underneath. After its sitting, I like to gently lift it all up, and drop it back down a few times, and listen for any odd sound. All the gaskets are rubber, so you should hear a soft thud, as opposed to any click, rattle, or anything like that.


    .
  20. Now reinstall all manifold bolts and the ground bracket removed in step 12, and screw them all in about half way, but do not tighten yet. Also plug the throttle body and MAP connectors back in.

    .
  21. Reinstall the fuel rail assembly, but flipped around, so the fuel inlet is now on the passenger side, and the Schrader valve is on the passenger rear. Take care to get the bracket on the drivers side over the fuel rail. Make sure all injectors go into their hole, and pop into place. When down, you won't be able to easily see the o-ring on the injectors. Make sure the ground bracket sits on top of the fuel rail. You'll want the fuel inlet pipe to sit above the injector wiring harness.



    .
  22. Once completely down, you can install and tighten the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail on to 89 inch-pounds, which is not very much! Then plug each injector connector back in, and lock each connector by sliding the tab down. Give them a gentle tug to make sure they are fully on. Now you can reconnect the injector wiring harness to the fuel rail, as previously removed in step 7.
    .
  23. Now tighten all 10 intake manifold bolts in two passes, first pass all to 44 inch-pounds, second pass to 89 inch-pounds, in the specific order below. Again, these bolts are not very tight! Make sure you do not over-tighten, or you may be extracting a broken bolt, or replacing a cracked manifold! A torque wrench is highly advised, but if a torque wrench is absolutely not available, tighten them to about the same tightness as they were previously, which is barely hand-tight, with a 1/4" ratchet.


    .
  24. Now disconnect the engine side of the evap line that runs from the engine to the passenger frame area, next to the main fuel line. On the engine side, push the hose in further down, push the white tab in, and pull the hose off.

    .
  25. Pop off the 2 tabs which hold the wiring harness which sits over the coils on the passenger side, and route the evap hose underneath it, then reconnect the tabs, and reconnect the evap hose on the engine side. We want the evap hose underneath that wiring harness, so it sits away from the new fuel line, in case it rubs through.



    .
  26. Now take the new fuel line, and connect it to the fuel rail, and the main fuel line, then install both lock clips.


    .
  27. Now prime the fuel by turning the ignition on, but do not start the engine! With the ignition on, inspect the fuel rail, line, and each injector (top and bottom) for any leaks. Turn the ignition off for a few seconds, and repeat. Do this 2 or 3 times, and if no leaks are present, you are good to start the engine. Make sure you have a good fire extinguisher or water readily available, just in case. While the engine is running, again inspect for any leaks.
    .
  28. Now ready, set, you're done!

If you need any help, or have questions, feel free to call, PM, or email us anytime!

- Jeremy

When performed correctly, and as shown, no problems should occur. However, JDP Motorsports is in no way responsible for any damage or injury received or produced by following these instructions.

Last edited by JDP Tech; 02-25-2013 at 01:22 PM.
JDP Tech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2011, 10:41 AM   #2
JDP Tech

 
JDP Tech's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/RS 429 LSX/F1X
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 427
Edited and added to, to accommodate different production differences.

- Jeremy
JDP Tech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2012, 02:27 PM   #3
full of days
 
full of days's Avatar
 
Drives: Camaro GT
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 725
excellent. Is there any problem or performance loss running without the clamshell cover?
__________________

Post Tenebras Lux


full of days is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 10:44 AM   #4
JDP Tech

 
JDP Tech's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/RS 429 LSX/F1X
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 427
Not at all, in fact there is probably a very slight improvement in performance, without the cover the intake will stay cooler, which means cooler air, which means better performance.
With the cover it will keep the manifold warmer, which would help in getting to operating temperature slightly quicker in case you drive it in cold weather, but really you wouldn't notice anything different going either way.

Feel free to call, email or PM anytime!
- Jeremy
JDP Tech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 04:06 PM   #5
ITGuy11
Burning up tires
 
ITGuy11's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1SS/RS
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Macomb Twp, MI
Posts: 718
Very nice! This is on my to do list in the spring.
__________________
Blower, cam, supporting mods 644RWHP 615RWTQ
My Build Thread COTW 11/19/12
Detroit 5th Gen Camaro Club
ITGuy11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2012, 10:46 AM   #6
JDP Tech

 
JDP Tech's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/RS 429 LSX/F1X
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 427
Just added a couple more things, particularly in step 17.
If you leave the clamshell on during intake manifold removal, the manifold cannot lift up enough to clear the oil pressure sending unit if plugged in, so you will have to disconnect the sensor to give you clearance.

Feel free to call, email or PM anytime!
- Jeremy
JDP Tech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2012, 02:48 PM   #7
ackeight

 
ackeight's Avatar
 
Drives: 10' 2SS/RS
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: DFW
Posts: 1,324
Just ordered a kit. Does it come with the fuel line tool or is it just "offered"? I didn't see it as an option to purchase. Thanks
__________________
ADM tuned 412HP/407RWTQ. Kooks 2" headers w/ cats, ADM race intake, Vmax TB, Pedders XA coilovers and ZL1 sways. 1le clone
ackeight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2012, 01:08 PM   #8
JDP Motorsports

 
JDP Motorsports's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 JDP Track Spec Camaro
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sandy, Utah
Posts: 3,230
Great info!

Kind regards,

Jordan Priestley
888.308.6007
__________________
JDP Motorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2012, 01:58 PM   #9
a.morblu
 
a.morblu's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 Sinister SS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 478
Added to the engine clean up list!!
__________________
a.morblu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2013, 07:13 PM   #10
maroman1138
 
maroman1138's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 SS/RS LS3
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Houston TX.
Posts: 442
What is the price of the kit with the tool?
__________________
2011 1SS/RS LS3 - Stage II Ported Heads, Stage II Comp Cam, Ported T.B., Hurst Shifter - 0BX LT Headers - CAT delete, Pype Bomb Axle-Back Exhaust - Muffler delete - 4.5 Resonated tips, Spectre CAI, - 480 RWHP 442 TRQ. Dyno tuned by ARD.
maroman1138 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2013, 01:00 PM   #11
JDP Motorsports

 
JDP Motorsports's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 JDP Track Spec Camaro
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sandy, Utah
Posts: 3,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by maroman1138 View Post
What is the price of the kit with the tool?
PM sent. Please feel free to call, email or PM me anytime with questions.

Kind regards,

Jordan Priestley
888.308.6007
__________________
JDP Motorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2013, 02:26 PM   #12
IOM Black Diamond
HT5 COTW 1/21/13
 
IOM Black Diamond's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro Inferno 2SS RS 6M
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Pleasant Hill, Or
Posts: 2,491
Very nice DIY thank you
__________________
IOM Black Diamond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2013, 09:13 PM   #13
Rocky1974

 
Rocky1974's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS M6 Camaro
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Garrison,KY
Posts: 1,028
Looks much better, but doesn't rotating the fuel rails 180 degrees put the fuel pressure test port back against the firewall?
__________________
2010 RJT 2SS M6, Kooks Long Tubes, CAI Cold Air w/Jannetty Scoop, RotoFab Washer Bottle, Elite Engineering Catch Can, MGW Shifter w/ZL1 Shaft and Knob, 2012 Heater Hose Conversion, 2012 Power Seat Conversion, RS Head Lights w/Gen5DIY RS Conversion Harness, Gen5DIY LED Fog lamp Bulbs, Heritage Grille w/Retro SS Emblem, NLP Spoiler, Custom Painted White Stripes, WCC LS3 Emblems, Blacked Out Tail Light Panel w/Retro SS Emblem, 416 RWHP, 411 RWT, Tuned by BlueCat.
Rocky1974 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2013, 07:18 AM   #14
ackeight

 
ackeight's Avatar
 
Drives: 10' 2SS/RS
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: DFW
Posts: 1,324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky1974 View Post
Looks much better, but doesn't rotating the fuel rails 180 degrees put the fuel pressure test port back against the firewall?
Yes but it's still accessible and how often do you use it?
__________________
ADM tuned 412HP/407RWTQ. Kooks 2" headers w/ cats, ADM race intake, Vmax TB, Pedders XA coilovers and ZL1 sways. 1le clone
ackeight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2013, 08:30 PM   #15
Rocky1974

 
Rocky1974's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS M6 Camaro
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Garrison,KY
Posts: 1,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by ackeight View Post
Yes but it's still accessible and how often do you use it?
I've never used it, but I figure one of these days........ and the way my luck goes, that day will be the next day after I rotate my fuel rail 180 degrees.
It looks like you would need a fuel pressure gauge with a 90 degree fitting and I think mine has a 45.
__________________
2010 RJT 2SS M6, Kooks Long Tubes, CAI Cold Air w/Jannetty Scoop, RotoFab Washer Bottle, Elite Engineering Catch Can, MGW Shifter w/ZL1 Shaft and Knob, 2012 Heater Hose Conversion, 2012 Power Seat Conversion, RS Head Lights w/Gen5DIY RS Conversion Harness, Gen5DIY LED Fog lamp Bulbs, Heritage Grille w/Retro SS Emblem, NLP Spoiler, Custom Painted White Stripes, WCC LS3 Emblems, Blacked Out Tail Light Panel w/Retro SS Emblem, 416 RWHP, 411 RWT, Tuned by BlueCat.
Rocky1974 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2013, 07:10 AM   #16
chevy 3
NEcamaro5
 
chevy 3's Avatar
 
Drives: Black 2ss rs 1LE
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: mass
Posts: 3,859
How much for the line and tool please. This is on my do list this winter
__________________
chevy 3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2013, 10:57 AM   #17
JDP Tyler

 
JDP Tyler's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 6,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy 3 View Post
How much for the line and tool please. This is on my do list this winter
PM has been sent! Let me know if you have any questions!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007
__________________

Click HERE to send me a PM | Sales@jdpmotorsports.com | www.jdpmotorsports.com | 888.308.6007
JDP Tyler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 06:48 AM   #18
jman17
 
jman17's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 SS-2/1969 SS
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 121
Tyler,

What do the SS Fuel line retrofit kit and heater hose update run pricewise?

Thanks,

James
__________________
1969 SS: SS/DA 427 CI/Auto

2011 SS-2 LS3 M6 MODS: 470 rwhp/437tq; Cam: Pat G designed/EPS Ground (228/234 .629”/.629” 114 LSA +4 advance), Lethal Racing ported throttle-body and intake manifold, Kooks 1 7/8” Long Tube Headers, Dynomax Bullet Cat-Back System, Cold Air Induction CAI system, RX Performance Catch-Can, Skip Shift Eliminator
jman17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 11:32 AM   #19
JDP Tyler

 
JDP Tyler's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 6,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by jman17 View Post
Tyler,

What do the SS Fuel line retrofit kit and heater hose update run pricewise?

Thanks,

James
A PM has been sent! Let me know if you have any questions!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007
__________________

Click HERE to send me a PM | Sales@jdpmotorsports.com | www.jdpmotorsports.com | 888.308.6007
JDP Tyler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2013, 10:24 PM   #20
was619
Billy The Kid
 
was619's Avatar
 
Drives: Cyber Grey 2SS/RS
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 611
So I'm a little confused on why you only removed the passenger side rear bracket on top of he manifold. Does the drivers side hold something else in or did you just decide to leave because..

Thanks!
Great simple mod otherwise! And a good step by step guide as well
__________________
CGM 2SS/RS[SIZE="1"]
Performance: LT Headers/Stainless Works cat-back, 225/233 Cam, 1LE 3.91 gears, Custom Tune, BMR suspension,
MGW Shifter, Stainless brake & clutch lines, Ideal G Master Cylinder, 275s on all 4 corners
Aesthetics: ZL1 Spoiler, DIY LED marker lights, AACPlasma DRL, Yellow Calipers, painted factory wheels
was619 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2013, 11:52 AM   #21
JDP Tyler

 
JDP Tyler's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 6,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by was619 View Post
So I'm a little confused on why you only removed the passenger side rear bracket on top of he manifold. Does the drivers side hold something else in or did you just decide to leave because..

Thanks!
Great simple mod otherwise! And a good step by step guide as well
The Passenger side is removed for clearance. The drivers side doesn't have to be removed, but you probably could if you wanted to.

Thanks for the feedback and feel free to call, PM or email us with questions!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007
__________________

Click HERE to send me a PM | Sales@jdpmotorsports.com | www.jdpmotorsports.com | 888.308.6007
JDP Tyler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2014, 09:38 AM   #22
GTUPONIT
 
GTUPONIT's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 45th Anniversary
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 241
Tyler, can you send me the link to purchase the retro kit? Link at the top does not work.
__________________
I usually don't drink milk but when I do, I prefer "dos boobies". Stay thirsty my friends.
GTUPONIT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2014, 08:16 AM   #23
PalmerGA


 
PalmerGA's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 SIM 1SS/RS L99
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Southwest GA
Posts: 6,009
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDP Tech View Post
Now ready, set, you're done!
You left out the final step - CLEAN THAT NASTY ENGINE & ENGINE BAY!

Seriously though, nice write up. Thanks.
__________________
2013 1SS/RS Coupe L99
CAI Air Intake w/ Apex Scoop
VMAX CNC Ported Throttle Body
Solo Axle-Back Exhaust w/ J-pipes
RX Catch Can
Husky Splash Guards
Heritage Grille
Oracle Chrome Turn Signal Bulbs
Emblem Pros Retro SS Badges
Emblem Pros Custom Retro SS Kickplates
Emblem Pros Under-hood Bowtie
PalmerGA is online now   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Transcript of Camaro ZL1 Q&A Webchat with Chevrolet Tran Camaro ZL1 Forum - ZL1 Specific Topics 38 02-17-2012 12:45 AM
SEMA Show 2010 - New Camaro Products Showcase - pictures & descriptions! Sean@Phastek Camaro Photos | Spyshots | Video | Media Gallery 59 06-23-2011 12:56 PM
Latest Camaro Products - March 2010 Sean@Phastek V8 Bolt-Ons & Tunes 26 08-04-2010 04:42 PM
Stock Injectors vs Magnuson Kit Injectors Mark-HD Forced Induction - V8 24 01-27-2010 08:04 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.