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Old 12-19-2011, 04:54 PM   #15
JusticePete
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Now comes the fun part. We're going to lube the hell out of everything - the backs of the pads, the pinholes, the pins and spring, and don't forget the caliper. Any place where metal meets metal and has the potential to vibrate, we're gonna' lube it. And lube it like we mean it. When you're finished lubing, it should look like a second grader did it.

I know JusticePete doesn't think this is going to work, but I've put 18,000 miles on this job in the last year, and my brakes are still quiet. And I drive it hard, too (at the track and on the street).
I do think it will work! Most of the GM Dealers I work with use it on EVERY brake job. However, if you run a track day hard it disappears, evaporates, melts

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Old 12-19-2011, 05:01 PM   #16
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Exclamation STEP EIGHT

Pre-load the pads into the caliper (if you have enough lube on there, they should stick in place) and slide the caliper over the rotor.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:05 PM   #17
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Exclamation STEP NINE

Line up the mounting holes, and use a reliable torque wrench to tighten your new bolts to 30 ft-lbs (33 for the fronts).

Next use a braker-bar (you're gonna' need it) to torque each bolt another 90 degrees (torque-to-yield specs per GM). This is easily measured if you start with your bar at the vertical and pull to the horizontal, or vice-versa.

Now would be a good time to enjoy another frosty brew.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:13 PM   #18
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Exclamation STEP TEN

Now set your beer down and reinstall the spring and pins.

Hammer the lower pin into place, and slide the lower end of the spring behind it. Next, depress the upper end of the spring with your hand to keep the tension off the upper pin until you work it into the hole on the outboard side of the caliper.

Once it's in the hole, hammer it until you detect a change in the sound from the hammer (this is how you know it's properly seated).
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:21 PM   #19
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Exclamation STEP ELEVEN

Mount the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 140 ft-lbs.

When you do this on the fronts, it will be necessary to lower the wheels to the deck, or have someone hold their foot on the brake pedal. Either way, you'll need to complete the brake job on both sides first.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:33 PM   #20
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Exclamation STEP TWELVE

Lift the differential enough to remove your jack stands. Don't forget your hockey pucks or they'll go flying across the autocross course (trust me on this one ).

Lower the rear wheels and move to the fronts.

You may need a low profile jack to reach the forward cross-member, which is a good place to lift the vehicle.

There are some slots on the aft cross-member (just inboard of the sub-frame rails). These make a convenient place to install your homemade jackstand pads.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:37 PM   #21
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I don't like to be the guy bringing a black cloud to a thread, but the Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube will not last anywhere near that long if the car is driven hard. I am actually surprised this isn't being used when customers drive into a GM Dealership. It is a standard practice at places like Rodgers Chevrolet.
What do you think is the longest lasting lube?
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:43 PM   #22
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Exclamation STEP THIRTEEN

Now repeat the same drill you did on the rear brakes.

NOTE: You will need to turn the wheel (this can be done with the pump static as long as you turn the ignition key to unlock the steering) all the way inboard to facilitate pulling your braker-bar through 90 degrees. This will also make the caliper more accessible.

EDIT: See those weights GM installed on the caliper? Get rid of 'em. If they worked, you wouldn't be looking at this thread.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:51 PM   #23
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Exclamation STEP FOURTEEN

Enjoy your non-squealing brakes. I know JusticePete is very knowledgeable about this stuff, and I certainly value his comments, but my fix has lasted 18,000 hard miles, and I tried everything under the sun to resolve this issue. I changed rotors and pads. I removed weights. I added weights. This was the only fix that actually cured the problem.

I hope it works for you as well.
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Last edited by kmcd; 12-19-2011 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:38 PM   #24
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how long exactly have you been sitting on this information?


but anyways...

Sorry, stieger. I know all about your squealing brakes ordeal, but I think you had already traded your car in before I did this.
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:58 PM   #25
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Sorry, stieger. I know all about your squealing brakes ordeal, but I think you had already traded your car in before I did this.
Oh no I'm not complaining. Those squealing brakes got me a new 2011 Camaro. I just think it's funny that Chevrolet can't figure out a $30 fix.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:50 PM   #26
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What do you think is the longest lasting lube?
I'm open to suggestions as well.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:06 PM   #27
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Make sure to open the bleeder when compressing the caliper or else you are pushing the nasty brake fluid back into the master..
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:16 PM   #28
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I'm open to suggestions as well.
That'd be Gun Oil. It's a silicon based lube
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