Started My Whipple Install - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

SSawdusty · 03-26-2012, 11:06 AM

Well now its time to pin the crank. I think I have everything that's required.

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The bolt came out fairly easy. Just use some heat to soften the loctite and rattle it out with an impact gun. Takes a bit, but it will work. Then clean the area and blow dry. Install the drilling jig and torque the bolt. I positioned it with the hole horizontal.....just gave you a better view when drilling.

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Holes drilled. No problems. Just use cutting fluid and clear the drill flutes often. Take your time and don't side load your drill bit, if you break it the projects on hold. Make sure you drill right till the step on the bit touches the face of the pulley, as explained in the directions. The holes have to be deep enough. Once you put the pins in and if there not, you got some work do do. Clean and blow dry the area. See the rust...kinda strange, must hold water in that area.

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Pins in. Tap the pin in with a small hammer and 3/16 pin punch. You will be able to tell when in bottoms out by listening to the sound when hitting the punch. Don't hit that rad on the back swing.

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Now its time to install the new crank bolt. Put some never sieze or other lube under the bolt head and washer and some loctite on the threads. Then torque the bolt. Of couse you already have the tranny in 4th (M6) E brake on and blocks under the rear tires......Right. You don't want roll you baby off those jack stands.

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MA2010SS · 03-26-2012, 11:31 AM

Good job so far, I thought the hardest part of the whipple install was bleeding the system, I wound up taking the reservior and holding it above my head for about ten minutes with the pump running and try to striaghten out the preformed hoses while doing that, alot of air gets trapped on those bends. Keep the pictures coming!

10aSSee D · 03-26-2012, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MA2010SS

Good job so far, I thought the hardest part of the whipple install was bleeding the system, I wound up taking the reservior and holding it above my head for about ten minutes with the pump running and try to striaghten out the preformed hoses while doing that, alot of air gets trapped on those bends. Keep the pictures coming!

Same here, had a lot of air in the hoses and I had to hold the tank up to get it out. But no biggie

Caswell239 · 03-26-2012, 09:10 PM

Awesome!!

SSawdusty · 03-27-2012, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MA2010SS

Good job so far, I thought the hardest part of the whipple install was bleeding the system, I wound up taking the reservior and holding it above my head for about ten minutes with the pump running and try to striaghten out the preformed hoses while doing that, alot of air gets trapped on those bends. Keep the pictures coming!

Thanks for the tip.

SSawdusty · 03-28-2012, 01:16 AM

Time to install the MSD BAP. Everything was pretty straight forward as laid out in the instructions. I put a cap on the battery post just in case.

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I also plugged the vacuum hose so no dirt got in there while threading the loom under the car.

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I removed the right rear wheel and inner fender. It made it easier to run the loom.

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After removing the plastic shield that covered the fuel lines and tiring to get the loom under it. I went to plan B. The plastic cover would not sit flat to the floor pan with the thickness of the loom under it. I did not like this so I ran the loom beside it holding it up with some clamps.

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Then instead of following the fuel lines I went to the other side and under the heat shield. This gave better protection from the headers when you crossed over further up.

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Then followed the O2 sensor wire up to the engine bay.

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pierre777 · 03-28-2012, 02:56 AM

man those headers look so sexy,great pics and awesome DIY keepem cominn bro

SSawdusty · 03-28-2012, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierre777

man those headers look so sexy,great pics and awesome DIY keepem cominn bro

Thanks pierre777. More pics coming

SSawdusty · 03-28-2012, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10aSSee D

Same here, had a lot of air in the hoses and I had to hold the tank up to get it out. But no biggie

Did you prefill the intercooler before installing?

bigsquirrel · 03-28-2012, 02:22 PM

Takes me back, have fun and great pictures. Could use a few more squirrels though.

JANNETTYRACING · 03-28-2012, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sawdusty

Did you prefill the intercooler before installing?

Thank you for the mention, and Great job on the install and pics.

We use a Vacuum Cooling system tool to fill both the engine and the intercooler systems, It is really the Best Way.

Ted.

MA2010SS · 03-28-2012, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Thank you for the mention, and Great job on the install and pics.

We use a Vacuum Cooling system tool to fill both the engine and the intercooler systems, It is really the Best Way.

Ted.

Best way to do it for sure, not cheap equipment though!

SSawdusty · 03-28-2012, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Thank you for the mention, and Great job on the install and pics.

We use a Vacuum Cooling system tool to fill both the engine and the intercooler systems, It is really the Best Way.

Ted.

Thanks Ted. Its always a pleasure doing busness with you. Don't have one of those fancy gizmos, so I'll have use the second best way. Will be contacting you soon with the paticulars for the tune.

Andy@AMSOIL · 03-28-2012, 08:50 PM

How did you like it ,, did you get it tunned

SSawdusty · 03-28-2012, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy@AMSOIL

How did you like it ,, did you get it tunned

Still in the process of installing. Not in any real hurry, weathers still on the wintery side. Doing a few other mod and just enjoying myself. Nice to work on something that's clean for a change.

SSawdusty · 03-29-2012, 12:30 AM

Time to separate the supercharger from the manifold so it can be installed on the engine. Shaft cover, bypass assembly and actuator removed.

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Then separate the supercharger from the manifold.

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Don't forget to fill with oil and coolant as described in the instructions. No you don't do it upside down.

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I installed my new ZR1 map sensor along with the two wiring extensions.

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O rings installed on the manifold. As stated in the instructions make sure they are not twisted or you will have a vacuum leak.

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Manifold installed and torqued.

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Supercharger up and ready to be installed. Rear intercooler hoses on. Its heavy so be careful you don't want to dent up that intercooler or tear the O ring on the manifold. So time to get some help lifting it in.

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Its in

Was a tight squeeze under the cowl until the intercooler dropped in. Now time to reinstall the actuator and bypass assembly and torque it all down

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SSawdusty · 03-29-2012, 12:39 AM

Well time to install a little bling. Got these from Billet Custom Product. Bruce and his crew make a top quality product. Racked up the phone bill just shootin the breeze with him.

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Heres a sneak preview. Still more to do. But they look pretty sweet.

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pierre777 · 03-29-2012, 04:17 AM

looking good

MA2010SS · 03-29-2012, 05:30 AM

Looks great, a little advise...if you are installing a boost guage now is the time to do it. You have to separate the fuel rail on the drivers side to access the bung on the lower manifold. I did it after the install and just makes for a smelly garage with fuel coming out of the rail while tapping into that bung on the drivers side.

SSawdusty · 03-29-2012, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MA2010SS

Looks great, a little advise...if you are installing a boost guage now is the time to do it. You have to separate the fuel rail on the drivers side to access the bung on the lower manifold. I did it after the install and just makes for a smelly garage with fuel coming out of the rail while tapping into that bung on the drivers side.

Thanks for the advise. Got a boost and air/fuel gauges on the way. Should be here in a few days. Was wondering where the boost gauge tapped into.

RSBAD454 · 03-29-2012, 09:39 AM

A lot of parts to a Whipple install. Great pics......

SLEEPER SS · 03-29-2012, 12:41 PM

look real good man

BLACK10 · 03-29-2012, 01:31 PM

We also use the vacumm system to fill the rad and exchanger. Makes it very fast to fill.

You can always lower the front cradle a little to give the sc more room to slide in

Ject · 03-29-2012, 01:43 PM

Awesome job man, This will def. help if I go the same route!!

sleeptyt · 03-29-2012, 03:56 PM

This is a beautiful setup!!! What are your HP goals?

03-26-2012, 11:06 AM	#26
SSawdusty "Jewel" Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Cowichan Valley, BC Posts: 270	Well now its time to pin the crank. I think I have everything that's required. The bolt came out fairly easy. Just use some heat to soften the loctite and rattle it out with an impact gun. Takes a bit, but it will work. Then clean the area and blow dry. Install the drilling jig and torque the bolt. I positioned it with the hole horizontal.....just gave you a better view when drilling. Holes drilled. No problems. Just use cutting fluid and clear the drill flutes often. Take your time and don't side load your drill bit, if you break it the projects on hold. Make sure you drill right till the step on the bit touches the face of the pulley, as explained in the directions. The holes have to be deep enough. Once you put the pins in and if there not, you got some work do do. Clean and blow dry the area. See the rust...kinda strange, must hold water in that area. Pins in. Tap the pin in with a small hammer and 3/16 pin punch. You will be able to tell when in bottoms out by listening to the sound when hitting the punch. Don't hit that rad on the back swing. Now its time to install the new crank bolt. Put some never sieze or other lube under the bolt head and washer and some loctite on the threads. Then torque the bolt. Of couse you already have the tranny in 4th (M6) E brake on and blocks under the rear tires......Right. You don't want roll you baby off those jack stands. __________________ Whipple SC with 3.875 pulley. MSD BAP. ZR1 MAP Sensor. Granatelli Wires. 160 T Stat. ADM CAI & Scoop. Vmax Ported Throttle Body. Ceramic Coated LG Motorsports Super Pro Headers and Mufflers. Cat Delete. BCP Valve Covers. Roto-Fab W/W Bottle. RX Catch Can & Breather. Elite Tunnel Brace. MGW Shifter . Prosport EVO Boost & A/F Gauges. Autometer Pillar Gauge Pod. Spohn CM Del-Sphere Trailing Arms & Toe Links. BMR Bushings. Foose Speed Wheels. Pirelli 275/305 Tires. New paint by GTC. Tuned by Jannetty Racing.

03-26-2012, 11:31 AM	#27
MA2010SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Somerset MA Posts: 493 View My Garage	Good job so far, I thought the hardest part of the whipple install was bleeding the system, I wound up taking the reservior and holding it above my head for about ten minutes with the pump running and try to striaghten out the preformed hoses while doing that, alot of air gets trapped on those bends. Keep the pictures coming! __________________ 2010 Camaro SS Whipple SC, CAI Inc Intake, JRE 4.11 Gears, TSP 1 7/8" LT headers no cats, 3" magnaflow exhaust, HPT, RX Catch Can, LSR Toe Rods, LSR Trailing Arms, ALKY Control Meth, McLeod RXT Twin Disc, DSS 1000HP alxes, DSS aluminum DS, ZL1 fuel pump, Tuned by SLOWHAWK Performance Bridgewater MA 577RWHP

03-28-2012, 01:16 AM	#31
SSawdusty "Jewel" Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Cowichan Valley, BC Posts: 270	Time to install the MSD BAP. Everything was pretty straight forward as laid out in the instructions. I put a cap on the battery post just in case. I also plugged the vacuum hose so no dirt got in there while threading the loom under the car. I removed the right rear wheel and inner fender. It made it easier to run the loom. After removing the plastic shield that covered the fuel lines and tiring to get the loom under it. I went to plan B. The plastic cover would not sit flat to the floor pan with the thickness of the loom under it. I did not like this so I ran the loom beside it holding it up with some clamps. Then instead of following the fuel lines I went to the other side and under the heat shield. This gave better protection from the headers when you crossed over further up. Then followed the O2 sensor wire up to the engine bay. __________________ Whipple SC with 3.875 pulley. MSD BAP. ZR1 MAP Sensor. Granatelli Wires. 160 T Stat. ADM CAI & Scoop. Vmax Ported Throttle Body. Ceramic Coated LG Motorsports Super Pro Headers and Mufflers. Cat Delete. BCP Valve Covers. Roto-Fab W/W Bottle. RX Catch Can & Breather. Elite Tunnel Brace. MGW Shifter . Prosport EVO Boost & A/F Gauges. Autometer Pillar Gauge Pod. Spohn CM Del-Sphere Trailing Arms & Toe Links. BMR Bushings. Foose Speed Wheels. Pirelli 275/305 Tires. New paint by GTC. Tuned by Jannetty Racing.

03-28-2012, 02:56 AM	#32
pierre777 HT5 COTW 9/3/2012 Drives: Cyber Bullet Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: lebanon Posts: 4,003 View My Garage	man those headers look so sexy,great pics and awesome DIY keepem cominn bro __________________

03-28-2012, 02:22 PM	#35
bigsquirrel My car runs on acorns.... Drives: 2010 SS RS Inferno Orange Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 1,334 View My Garage	Takes me back, have fun and great pictures. Could use a few more squirrels though. __________________ My car runs on acorns, the tears of ricers and these other slightly less important things... 2.9 Polished Whipple, Kooks LT 1 7/8 headers, HiFlow Cats, Kooks Sleeper catback, Cooling Mist Methanol Injection, PFADT Sport Sways, PFADT Springs, PFADT rear trailing arms, ADM intake, JDP stainless brake lines, Jegs Catch can, Stock SS wheels widened to 10 3/4, Hawks HPS Pads, Pedders Rear Subframe Bushing Inserts, BMR Center Brace, MSD BAP, AAC side markers, Emblem Pro's Custom Lighted Door Sills, Dash-Floor-Cupholder ABL lighting and other stuff....

03-26-2012, 09:10 PM	#29
Caswell239 Drives: 2011 2ss/rs Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Canada Posts: 814	Awesome!!

03-28-2012, 08:50 PM	#39
Andy@AMSOIL Account Suspended Drives: 4 wheels Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Digging for OIL Posts: 266	How did you like it ,, did you get it tunned

03-29-2012, 12:30 AM	#41
SSawdusty "Jewel" Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Cowichan Valley, BC Posts: 270	Time to separate the supercharger from the manifold so it can be installed on the engine. Shaft cover, bypass assembly and actuator removed. Then separate the supercharger from the manifold. Don't forget to fill with oil and coolant as described in the instructions. No you don't do it upside down. I installed my new ZR1 map sensor along with the two wiring extensions. O rings installed on the manifold. As stated in the instructions make sure they are not twisted or you will have a vacuum leak. Manifold installed and torqued. Supercharger up and ready to be installed. Rear intercooler hoses on. Its heavy so be careful you don't want to dent up that intercooler or tear the O ring on the manifold. So time to get some help lifting it in. Its in Was a tight squeeze under the cowl until the intercooler dropped in. Now time to reinstall the actuator and bypass assembly and torque it all down __________________ Whipple SC with 3.875 pulley. MSD BAP. ZR1 MAP Sensor. Granatelli Wires. 160 T Stat. ADM CAI & Scoop. Vmax Ported Throttle Body. Ceramic Coated LG Motorsports Super Pro Headers and Mufflers. Cat Delete. BCP Valve Covers. Roto-Fab W/W Bottle. RX Catch Can & Breather. Elite Tunnel Brace. MGW Shifter . Prosport EVO Boost & A/F Gauges. Autometer Pillar Gauge Pod. Spohn CM Del-Sphere Trailing Arms & Toe Links. BMR Bushings. Foose Speed Wheels. Pirelli 275/305 Tires. New paint by GTC. Tuned by Jannetty Racing.

03-29-2012, 12:39 AM	#42
SSawdusty "Jewel" Drives: RJT-2SS-RS-6M Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Cowichan Valley, BC Posts: 270	Well time to install a little bling. Got these from Billet Custom Product. Bruce and his crew make a top quality product. Racked up the phone bill just shootin the breeze with him. Heres a sneak preview. Still more to do. But they look pretty sweet. __________________ Whipple SC with 3.875 pulley. MSD BAP. ZR1 MAP Sensor. Granatelli Wires. 160 T Stat. ADM CAI & Scoop. Vmax Ported Throttle Body. Ceramic Coated LG Motorsports Super Pro Headers and Mufflers. Cat Delete. BCP Valve Covers. Roto-Fab W/W Bottle. RX Catch Can & Breather. Elite Tunnel Brace. MGW Shifter . Prosport EVO Boost & A/F Gauges. Autometer Pillar Gauge Pod. Spohn CM Del-Sphere Trailing Arms & Toe Links. BMR Bushings. Foose Speed Wheels. Pirelli 275/305 Tires. New paint by GTC. Tuned by Jannetty Racing.

03-29-2012, 04:17 AM	#43
pierre777 HT5 COTW 9/3/2012 Drives: Cyber Bullet Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: lebanon Posts: 4,003 View My Garage	looking good __________________

03-29-2012, 05:30 AM	#44
MA2010SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Somerset MA Posts: 493 View My Garage	Looks great, a little advise...if you are installing a boost guage now is the time to do it. You have to separate the fuel rail on the drivers side to access the bung on the lower manifold. I did it after the install and just makes for a smelly garage with fuel coming out of the rail while tapping into that bung on the drivers side. __________________ 2010 Camaro SS Whipple SC, CAI Inc Intake, JRE 4.11 Gears, TSP 1 7/8" LT headers no cats, 3" magnaflow exhaust, HPT, RX Catch Can, LSR Toe Rods, LSR Trailing Arms, ALKY Control Meth, McLeod RXT Twin Disc, DSS 1000HP alxes, DSS aluminum DS, ZL1 fuel pump, Tuned by SLOWHAWK Performance Bridgewater MA 577RWHP

03-29-2012, 09:39 AM	#46
RSBAD454 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Somewhere Posts: 286 View My Garage	A lot of parts to a Whipple install. Great pics...... __________________ 2010 ABM RS/SS with a Procharged LS3, Flowmaster exhaust.

03-29-2012, 12:41 PM	#47
SLEEPER SS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: DA BOTTOM Posts: 345	look real good man __________________

03-29-2012, 01:31 PM	#48
BLACK10 POWER TECH Drives: 2010 CAMARO. 10.04@133mph, 1.4 60' Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Lafayette, Louisiana Posts: 4,379	We also use the vacumm system to fill the rad and exchanger. Makes it very fast to fill. You can always lower the front cradle a little to give the sc more room to slide in __________________ LETHAL RACING.COM 337-258-7692

03-29-2012, 01:43 PM	#49
Ject aka Patrick Drives: '10 Camaro 2SS '04 Silverado Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Derby Kansas Posts: 2,951	Awesome job man, This will def. help if I go the same route!! __________________ 12.49 @ 110.89 mph 1.598 60' - with 3600 converter Current Modifications: C.A.I. Inc. CAI, UD Pulley, Vmax Ported TB, TSP Ported Heads, Dynatech Headers, Flowmaster AMT Cat Back, Pfadt Drop Springs / Trailing Arms / Swaybars & End Links, Hotchkis Max Brace Proud user of Adams Polishes

03-29-2012, 03:56 PM	#50
sleeptyt Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Mckinney, TX Posts: 33	This is a beautiful setup!!! What are your HP goals? __________________ 2010 2ss/rs - Built by ADM Performance - 2" American Racing Headers (Ceramic Coated), 2 1/2" Magnaflow competition series catback, ADM race intake, ADM stage II blower cam, MTI six shooter shifter, ADM custom tune -- 450rwhp/430rwtq

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