|08-09-2011, 04:18 PM||#26|
I will go with the Hawk HP pads once my stockers wear a little more. Less brake dust and they will eliminate the roller skates so I can fit 18 inch wheels.
|08-31-2011, 07:50 PM||#27|
Bringing the SS to my first car show ever. I did not think I would ever do this but it could be fun. So I decided to try spiffing things up a little.
I really like the engine without the cover, but then the cover is sort of like a blank canvas. I may have over done it.
Next orange bumble bee stripes. Vinyl prices have come way down.
|09-04-2011, 08:36 PM||#28|
I drove around for a while and took a few curves. No more push! Now i will have to be careful exploring the limits of my SS the next time at the track. But the improved cornering feel is worth it.
Now I wonder. If i do later go to the same size tire front and rear would I go back to the middle sway bar setting?
|09-08-2011, 05:17 PM||#29|
Bumble Bee Stripes
I added stripes to my very plain black SS.
I would not have done this if they were not so cheap.
Under $200 installed.
The local Sign A Rama did the install. The stripes are not a perfect fit over the spoiler. And the gills look a little too large for the indentations. Was it the stripes or the installer? Not sure. Quite a few little bubbles. The installer said these would disappear once the car sees some sun. The stripes are well aligned and the price was right.
If I tire of this look I can always take them off. But for now it looks good from a distance. Tons of likes and comments on my Facebook page. The bright orange was a scary choice.
Next, IOM door and dash panels?
|10-09-2011, 08:44 PM||#30|
For several months now I have been running LTs and high flow cats on my LS3 with the stock catback. At first I was very happy. But over time a few things bothered me:
I did not want my exhaust to be overly loud and definitely no drone. With LTs you have to be careful if you want to keep the volume low. I enjoy long trips and not waking up the neighbors and my dogs late at night.
So i researched and listened to more clips. At the end I chose the MagnaFlow Street series Axle back. This system is reasonably priced and came highly recommended. The other axle back I considered was the Borla Touring which is also the street GMMP axle back. I chose the Magnaflow because I could find it cheaper than the Borla.
So I ordered it. Several days later the box arrived. The installation went smoothly. I was afraid to cut my mid-pipes too short so I made the first cut with the Sawzall close to the mufflers. Then I mounted the muffler with the extra connector pipe so I could mark the exact spot to cut on each side.
I used lithium spray grease on those pesky rubber connectors to make things easier. Then I made the last two final cuts and put on both mufflers and connector pipes. After that I went to the back of the car and made sure both tips were in the right spot and evenly matched. Finally I tightened down all the bolts.
Fitment was perfect and all the parts looked high quality. The only tight spot was on the drivers side where the pipe came pretty close to the BMR sway bar grease fitting.
After starting up the car I loved the improved sound. Much deeper and less raspy. THen I took the SS out for a long drive to visit my aunt and uncle out by the Mullica river.
Last edited by Fraxum; 10-22-2011 at 09:14 PM.
|10-22-2011, 09:13 PM||#31|
The Drone is here
To follow up on this install....
After driving around for a bit I found the Magnaflow install has pulled the exhaust lower and it was up against the rear edge of the tunnel brace. So I went to Lowes and bought longer bolts and a couple boxes of washers. I think it took seven washers on each bolt to get it low enough.
There may be better solutions, but this was simple and cheap.
As far as gas milage goes over time I have seen no real change. I have not replicated that first trip. My car must have been running a bit lean and now the computer has things right back to where they were before the install.
Also the performance is back too. Power shifting into second now brings on the traction control big time. I should really get out to the track to see what it will do.
Now the bad. Drone. It is there. My first rides were with the windows were down and I did not notice the dreaded drone. Now that the weather is cooler and the windows are up the drone is noticeable. The other day I was out with three passengers and the drone was pretty bad. in sixth gear from 50-70 and especially bad going uphill.
Shifting down to fifth is better. With just me in the car it is not quite as bad, but still there.
So what next? Maybe the Helmholtz solution. Or maybe some gears. I still have the LS3 resonators on, maybe they are the culprit.
Last edited by Fraxum; 01-03-2012 at 09:01 PM.
|11-08-2011, 08:00 AM||#32|
Drives: 2011 2SS L99, 2010 LT RS
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: NY (USA) ZH (Switzerland)
Hey - what's up? Was wondering if you already installed the Resonated X-pipe to eliminate the drone?
|01-03-2012, 07:01 PM||#33|
A quiet exhaust solution
Lately I have seen a few posts here about having long tubes with a semi-quiet exhaust system. So i want to share my experience with my LS3 and a similar quest.
Some of us like to hear our motors but in a subdued way. While we like speed we also want to take our cars on long trips with our families and be able to listen to and enjoy music and books on tape. And there is a special kind of fun in having a fast car that doesn't sound fast or attract attention.
My car is an LS3 and i was looking to add long tubes and high flow cats while avoiding a loud exhaust and hopefully not spending a lot of money.
For starters I found a great deal on a set of used 1 7/8 Bigflow stainless LTs with a pair of high flow cats. I installed these myself in my garage. I started out by keeping the stock catback. I was hoping that this combination would keep things quiet while spending the least dollars.
One strange thing about the BFE cats is they are longer than most and require you to cut your stock sized cutback to install. But since I would only be cutting the stock pipes, I did not see this as a problem.
My results with the LTs and stock cutback:
The Good -
I did not want to buy an expensive cat back and then cut it to install. So I looked around and decided to install one of the quieter axle-backs, the Magnaflow Street. This seem to be ideal. It would keep the car quiet, while saving some weight replacing the huge stock muffler cans.
My results with the Magnaflow axle-back:
The Good -
I put up a post talking about the drone and a vendor suggested I try the Magnaflow X-Pipe. This pipe (which looks like a muffler) replaces the stock LS3 H pipe and is also part of the Street Series cutback.
So I bought the pipe and had it installed in a local muffler shop today. It replaces the stock H-pipe and leaves the stock LS3 resonators. While they were at it they fixed a couple of exhaust leaks and let me know one of my sway bar brackets fell off. They also moved things around to give me a little more clearance over the rear tunnel cross brace.
My results with the X-pipe:
The good -
For anyone looking for a quiet LT set up I can recommend LTs with the Magnaflow Street Series products. With the X-Pipe install cost I ended up spending almost as much as a full cat-back. If i were to do it over I would probably just buy the Street series cat-back and then cut it to fit the BFE cats. However then I would lose the LS3 resonators which may be the things that makes my setup work for me. Then again they may be contributing to the drone.
|01-03-2012, 07:02 PM||#34|
|01-03-2012, 08:32 PM||#35|
Drives: 1968 Camaro & 2010 Camaro 2SS
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Chalmers, Indiana
Nice build and great detail to perfection! Nothing at all wrong with doing it the right way!! That means not having to do it over......
True Blue Beauty
|01-19-2012, 09:10 AM||#36|
Drives: 2011 2SS L99, 2010 LT RS
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: NY (USA) ZH (Switzerland)
congrats! According to your older posts the Magnaflow resonated X-Pipe seems to be the perfect fix!
Looking forward to hear your feedback after some more miles.
(Setups tend to get a lil louder with some more miles).
|03-31-2012, 08:50 AM||#37|
1LE is coming! But continuing to enjoy my SS.
I am really excited about the 1LE. If you have not heard about it yet see here:
I hope to be ordering one once I get our RAV4 paid off. This is exactly what I was trying to build. I know some who are waiting for the next Z28 are disappointed, but to me the 1LE is the next Z28 minus some extra HP. And that is easy to fix with the LS3.
The 1LE has a more long term track history than the Z28 since for years the Z28 was just the V8 Camaro. In in those years the 1LE was the track version of the Z28. So for those years Z28 < 1LE. But the Z28 is a much cooler name and in the Camaro Gen 1 days it was a legend. The 1LE never got a rep mostly because no one knew about it. And the racing it participated in never was as popular as the old Trans Am series.
But none of this is the fault of the Z28. Dragging the Z28 name through the mud was the fault of the "old" GM. The new GM is much more serious about building cars for the enthusiast. Us! So when a new Z28 comes out I am sure it will be worthy of the name.
So while I am looking forward to my next Camaro, I will keep enjoying the Camaro I have. Happiness is planning for the future, but living in the moment. This took me years to learn, but learning is what life is is all about.
Back the the moment.
I am still having problems with wheel hop and the more knowledgable than me crowd has suggested Trailing Arm Outer bushings and a wheel alignment. that thread is here:
I bought the BMR OTA bushing and also the BMR front bushing kit all of which I plan to do myself when I can find the time. A shout out to Apex Chase, great Service. I already made one attempt at installation here:
I will try again.
Anyway I also bought the BMR Tunnel Brace to replace my stock brace with all the washers:
Since the local muffler shop tidied up my exhaust kludge and raised the cat-back I can now use the BMR brace with only a few washers. The BMR brace does provide a little additional clearance.
Last edited by Fraxum; 02-13-2015 at 05:56 PM.
|03-31-2012, 08:56 AM||#38|
It has a nice deep idle and wide open the car sings. I can hear some intake noise (a deep breathing sound) and the exhaust sounds sweet with none of that stock can blattiness. (New word, blat is the stock cat-back sound I was trying to describe earlier)
Now I am wondering, if I buy a 1LE do I use the same cat-back and LT system I have now or order the optional SS exhaust flaps? Option 1 will be at least $1,000 cheaper. I need to hear the new exhaust with LTs.
|04-01-2012, 11:40 AM||#39|
Drives: 2010 SS Camaro Carbon fiber gray
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Corona Ca.
I think the underlying isshue is still the weight problem. And I havent heard very much about how to solve it, other then carbon fiber, or lighter wheels. If some creative minds can come up with a sallution for the weight problem, I think the Gen5 camaro would handel better then the mustang. With the camaro haveing an independent rear and the mustang having a solid, loosing the weight would make the comaro quicker and better handeling Imo.
|04-16-2012, 07:22 PM||#40|
Upgraded BMR suspension creaks (Install Issue?)
Edit: I am just about certain the creaks were due to the sway bars. Once I took them off the the car the creaks disappeared. Some well place lube would have cured.
Last weekend I added outer Trailing Arm Bushings to my suspension build. While doing that I found the source of the creaking sound I have been hearing. So I recorded a video:
The squeaking was there before I did the Trailing Arm outer bushings.
Any theories? The rides seems a bit stiffer after all the bushings.
Could it be they were not "timed"? (I did not do the install.)
Could it be they were not lubed?
Also after my test drive it seemed to me the suspension compliance suffered a little. I wonder about binding....
As to the outer Trailing arm bushings I did this:
1. I Loosely tightened the 4 outer through bolts on the jackstands. I needed to also unbolt the Lower Control Arm on both side and raise the trailing arm to pull out the TA bolts.
2. I put the wheels back on and drove the back end up a set of ramps.
3. Since I could not get my prehistoric torque wrench in there I pulled on an 8 inch box end pretty hard. Think I could over shoot 80 lbs? I do hit the gym on a regular basis.
4. Even if i did overshoot a little doesn't the outer link bushing design preclude binding?
Loving the handling and the overall neutral feel of the car. And no more wheelhop or step-out with the outer TA bushings.
But creaking and worring baout binding? :(
Last edited by Fraxum; 07-24-2013 at 08:14 AM.
|04-16-2012, 07:39 PM||#41|
A very informative thread and a very cool car. But Doc has invested big $$.
I can tell you this, while lighter is better, the the Camaro can be built to out handle the Mustang as you said. IRS and a very stiff chassis gives the Camaro advantage. Case in point, the very heavy ZL1 carries more speed though the corners at VIR than a Boss LS.
When I took my car to the track last year my biggest problem was me. When my instructor took my car over she was running down a base C6 Vette (looked stock, perhaps an auto) and a 2010 Roush Mustang. She was grinning the whole time and remarked the car was an aircraft carrier compared to her track Miata, but she was very impressed. Big speed, composure, and good brakes.
Now my car has more power, almost no understeer (I adjusted my rear sway bar to the max setting), and installed more bushings to get rid of wheelhop and the little bit of step out that was left. Looking forward to going back to the track.
Last edited by Fraxum; 09-16-2012 at 08:00 AM.
|04-16-2012, 08:22 PM||#42|
New pics. These were before I put the car on jack stands for two days.
Last edited by Fraxum; 02-13-2015 at 05:58 PM.
|04-16-2012, 08:39 PM||#43|
Outer Trailing Arm Bushings Install
My Bushing Adventure repost:
445 rwhp is 24% driveline loss. Too high for even for an auto.
Fact: ZL1 > CTS-V (by at least a little)
It funny how many say they can build a car that performs as well as a ZL1 for less. But will it be as refined? Will it have a warranty? And the modded car is still only as worth as much as an unmodified SS.
Are we modding to save money?
The last time I checked, not. But still it's so much fun. Just last night I stripped a thread on my Trailing Arm putting in the outer bushing. And no other car at home. I frantically rode around on my daughters bicycle risking my life, hoping to find a parts store open. Auto Zone was open but they were out of my stripped nut. Pep Boys was closed. I gave up, not wanting to risk further busy road cycling at night with no lights or helmet.
And what would have happened if I wound up in the hospital? I had no insurance card. I looked greasy and homeless in my gym shorts and Run for Haiti T-shirt. And I forgot to check before I left if my underwear had any holes in it. My wife would have been mortified. Lucky for her she was out of town.
The threads on those suspension bolts are weird they start out with an easy spin then tighten up. I hope I can find a nut today that will work somewhere on a Sunday. My oldest daughter is coming over with a car.
See, this is why I mod, not to save money, I mod for the adventure. I think now my car would fare well against a Boss with a better driver than me. I did not save any $$ as I have spent Boss money on my SS. But I feel good about my car and content knowing I did a good portion of the work myself.
************************************************** ***********Anyway here are a few pics.
I used the Gear puller method to push out the bushings. But see that nut on the end of the puller? That is the nut used to hold on the Outer Trailing Arm and I stripped it!
This is what I went out looking for at 8 PM on a Saturday night. Did not finally get one until Sunday afternoon. Many thanks for Sears Hardware! All of the auto stores, Auto Zone, Pepe Boys, and Advance Auto parts had really weak bolt selections. Lame.
Now I have backups.
Here are the soft stockers....
Last edited by Fraxum; 02-13-2015 at 06:00 PM.
|05-12-2012, 05:24 AM||#44|
Spare Tire Neurosis
Edit: Randy's email address: firstname.lastname@example.org
The lack of a spare with the SS has been nagging in the back of my mind since buying the car. I know I have AAA and perhaps free towing to the nearest Chevy dealer. But when you take a trip far from home (like a daughter going to college 350 miles away and friends with mountain cabins) these resources can be an impossible distance away. Not to mention the unlikely availability of a local suitable tire replacement. Even more so with a Zl1 or a 1LE. Be sure to read the horror tire stories posted elsewhere on Camaro5. And for me traveling in a newish car with no worries about the ride is part of the charm.
Then the other day my left rear tire took on a nail. My low tire pressure light came on again one day after it came on the first time. Each time only a few pounds low. This must be a slow leak but I could not find any problems with the tire on the car. So I took the tire off to examine it more closely. There was a small finishing nail on the outside tread of the tire. Aha! A quick trip to Pep Boys for the free plug put me back on the road. Luckily just the weekend before I chose to the wife's Rav4 on a long trip to Ithaca NY. This nail was most likely in the tire even then. Potential disaster averted!
I was now ready for my next mod. I had already researched Camaro5 for SSpare solutions and I knew of a guy who put together spare kits for cars without spares. A resourceful business person filling a need! His name is Randall Maddox from Tucson, AZ. PM me if you want his email address and other info. Randy is great to work with and gives great service and supports his packages. I got in touch with Randy and ordered an SS Kit. He assured me it would clear my roller skates. (Another mod for another day to get rid of those.)
He shipped right away and a few days later the kit arrived.
One thing the kit did not have was wedges to place under the tire when you are changing to the spare. I added a pair from Pep Boys. They are in the pic below. Randy included a really nice tire iron. You will need both of those sockets. They are double sided so they should work on almost all lug nuts. And notice the well made custom spacer. Randy also included helpful instructions. Nice package:
And of course the spare itself:
I decided to try the spare out. This way no surprises in the field. Notice the tire wedges in the back. I out one on either side of the tire. Recently I was taking a tire off the student shuttle Jetta and the car fell over on the jack. Luckily there was no harm done to me or the car but I scared myself almost to the point of losing my fecal retainment capabilities. I was careless and did not have the car properly wedged. Don't let this happen to you. Notice the placement of the jack. The Camaro has four scissor jacking points. See your owners manual. As I jacked up the car I was ready to ditch the scissors jack supplied by Randy. It was very difficult to raise the car. But after I removed the jack I looked at it for signs of stress or damage. It looked fine. Then I noticed the threads were bone dry. Aha! I applied grease to both ends of the threads at the female thread point and worked the jack up and down a few times. Later when using the jack to remove the spare the action was much better. I still have the feeling the jack is a little overmatched by the weight of the SS, but it seems to do the job.
Once you get the tire off you need to attach the spacer. Use the applicable socket and small lug nuts supplied with the spacer to bolt on the spacer. These lug nuts need to be tight. Notice I used the jack handle to lock the free spinning hub in place while tightening the spacer lugs. When taking the spacer off use the jack handle on the bottom of the caliper.
Tada! The spared SS. Note that the spare supplied by Randy is 25.5 inches in diameter. Randy says this is the the tallest spare that will fit in the SS tire well. I am not so sure. This is 2.5 inches shorter than the stock SS SUV tire and wheel setup. So the spare must be mounted only on the front of the car. If you put it on the rear you will risk damage to the differential. So it does not take a rocket scientist to figure out if you get a flat in a rear tire you will need to make two tire changes to swap a front to rear tire and then put the pare on the front. In the future my SS will have a preferred square tire setup. Mod Gods willing.
You know, I kind of like the look of black steelies on the car. If the tire was wider it would look bad ass.
One more thing. If you have not done it already make sure the spare is properly inflated. My tire says 60 pounds is the inflation best practice. It was closer to 50 so I inflated the tire up to spec. I noticed also the tire warns you the max speed with this tire is 50 mph. For more reasons than just the tire you will want to observe this notice. Slow down with the spare on. Enjoy the ride, smell the roses.
So now for the spare driving test. I took the SS out for a short spin to check out the drivability. The first thing i noticed was the light show on the dash. See the pic. All that was caused by the shorter tire. Except for the check engine light. That light is my friend who occasionally reminds me that my rear O2 sensors do not send happy signals all the time. But it really reminds me that I love the wheel spinning power the LTs help provide.
Out on the road the car pulled only a little. This could have been because I chose the driver side tire and the crown of the road helped the car go relatively straight. Perhaps a passenger side spare would pull a little more. So driving with the spare was a pace of cake!. Then I decided to hit the brakes a bit hard. Big time pull to the left. Keep the speed under 50, be cautious and you will be fine.
A side note: Once you put the real tire back on these lights all go out in the first 20 feet of the drive. Except for the CEL of course.
Time to pack everything up. At first i wanted to get a tool bag and keep all the loose part in it. This is not practical since once packed the bag will not fit under the spare. I know I tried. I bought a bag from Pep Boys and immediately retuned it. The elder cashier was so overjoyed to see me again so soon. But Randy's kit does help out here. The cool lug wrench set up comes with a plastic bag which was just large enough to hold all the smaller parts. So I used that and wrapped the jack, spacer, and wheel chocks in shop rage. This way they will remain quiet back there and I have rags at the time of the spare swap. Neat. I tucked everything in as it all fit,
I did have an additional complication with my amp/sub setup and had to move some wires and ground terminal around to get the spare to lay flat.
The spare now fits nicely.
My SSpared Camaro trunk still looks as normal. A successful mod. Now about the weight I added:
Spare Kit total weight: 45 lbs
Stock compressor weight: 6 lbs
So the total weight added was 39 lbs. A small price to pay for peace of mind. I have already subtracted some weight by swapping out the stock mufflers and manifolds. But I added some weight with the sub, amp, sub box, and now the spare. So I probably have added a net weight of 25 pounds to me SS. You can check my inexact math. But I know I can easily shed 39 lbs when I go to the track. One of my planned mods is a lighter wheel and tire setup. So I should be back pretty close to stock weight with good tunes and the peace of mind I get with a spare tire. Priceless.
Last edited by Fraxum; 02-13-2015 at 06:03 PM.
|05-22-2012, 01:54 PM||#45|
There's an excellent DIY thread on the spare topic here:
|05-28-2012, 09:07 PM||#47|
Radius Rod Inserts
Installed Padders HD Radius Rod Inserts today. I chose the RR inserts over full bushing replacement purely for the easier install. And while there are different opinions on this the benefit of the inserts it is in the same league and the full bushing replacement. I have not tried both and I am not a serious road/autocross tracker so I cannot comment on the difference. I do know you can feel a difference with the inserts.
Great thread on this install by Caverman here:
I too had a race scoop. This was removed to make enough room for the RR bolts. Removing and reinstalling the scoop was the most time consuming part of the task.
A few additions to Cavermans RR insert install. The Pedders instructions asks you to put the car on jack-stands. I took a shortcut and just used ramps. Easy.
Also I recommend lightly greasing the outside of the inserts before reinstalling the front of the rods. On my first one (Left) I had to use my hydraulic jack to push up the wider bushing package. On the right side I tried the grease and it slipped into the rail like butter.
My RR bolts were easy to get off I only had one 21 MM socket so I had to improvise. You have to play around a bit to get a good angle to start loosening the nuts. Those with a complete set of 1/2 inch socket tools will have no problem.
Then I took a short country drive to evaluate the change. I did notice the tighter steering. The movement of the steering wheel now has a more immediate affect on the wheels and the direction of the car. The steering has about the same feel other wise. I felt no difference in braking as reported in other threads.
I have seen elsewhere also that the HD RR inserts make the biggest difference when running hard at the track. Hopefully I will experience this myself.
I am also looking for more lively steering. This may have to wait until I buy lighter wheels, better tires, and get a handling friendly wheel alignment. Every time I pull a wheel off this car I am reminded of the boat anchor stock setup.
So even though there may not be a huge street advantage to this mod I recommend it. It is so easy, cheap and give a noticeable result.
|09-03-2012, 12:17 PM||#48|
At the Drags
The 5th Gen Camaro is an awesome fun generator. It is equally at home on a road track or at the drags.
So I finally got around to running at Atco. My thread asking for help is here:
For anyone ever thinking of trying this if you have a track near you it can be a night of big fun at a Test & Tune. At Atco it is $10 to watch and $15 to run. And it does not matter what you have. Everyone has fun. The range of T&T streets cars runs from 10 second flat Nissan GT-Rs to 20 second tow trucks.
At the track I was nervous at first, but then after a while I started to focus on the things that make you faster. Leaving on the third yellow for example will not help your ET, but it will help you beat the car next to you (if that is possible).
The biggest problems are keeping heat soak down and the launch (LS3s). Shifting consistency is next. And then should you shift into 4th? Other Camaro LS3s at the drags seem spilt on this. I could not trap higher than 110 until I started shifting into 4th. I would hit the rev limiter and the car would hit a wall.
Another thing fun about this is you can correct your times to an optimal DA. Since humidity and temperature affect power you will run faster or slower depending on weather conditions. But if you go to this website you can (theoretically) correct for this.
It is not good form to say you ran the corrected times, because you did not. But you can track your mods with this and compare (somewhat) apples to apples in your ET improvements.
My fastest run so far is in the 12s! 12.999 (car 3101) to be exact And my highest trap is 111. I know my car is still faster than me. In good air my SS should be running at least 12.5s around 113. This gives me something to shoot for. Then maybe some DRs will be my next drag mod.
For now I need to work on my RT and 60 foot.
If you are thinking about running, do it!
Last edited by Fraxum; 02-13-2015 at 06:05 PM.
|09-16-2012, 08:10 AM||#49|
Before going to the drags I installed the Vararam Wedge. I was very skeptical of this mod and still am not sure the benefit. I did not feel much, if any difference.
Here is a re-post of my interpretation of a day drag racing with other C5s:
Could be DA was a factor slowing us down, it was 1492. My best run today converted to: 12.968 @ 111.245 and that was with a 2.246 60 foot. My best run ever converted to 12.875. So assuming I could improve my 60' to 2 flat (doable I hear on stock Pirellis) a 12.7 corrected is within reach. Still, with all my mods including suspension work, I should be faster. I will keep going back and try to improve.
Today I was a little faster than tuned LS3s.
So I am thinking scoop, ported TB, + wedge > tune
IMO scoop + ported TB = extra HP from tune. So my feeling is the wedge was the difference. Most of us were new track drivers, except for one guy who owned a speed shop. His LTed, tuned, LS3 could do no better than 13.3 today.
I think my car was stronger on the top end than the others. I did run 111 once before and I was running 110 today where the others were running 108s. I am leaning towards the Wedge making a difference.
One interesting thing, I ran a brand new 2013 GT500 at the end of the day and he was struggling to get into the 12s. I knew i had a shot of beating him with a picture perfect run. He ran a 12.85 @120. I started in second (Doh!) and missed third gear.
This fourth run was an outlier and happened after everyone else left. So the Wedge was no help here.
I sure wish I was on my toes running that GT 500. I ran a 15.3. Double Doh!
There may have been some benefit to adding the Wedge. Still not sure, but like the Ported TB, for the money it's fun to try.
|12-23-2012, 10:20 AM||#50|
The punching cat
Drives: '10 Camaro SS Black W/Hugger&W/IOI
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Torrance, CA
You car is lookin good sir!
My car build (COTW 7/23/12) - - - - - - > CLICK HERE! : http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80725
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