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Old 04-01-2012, 07:42 AM   #29
Lonny Doyle
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It is amazing that OEMs have spent billions of dollars over the last 130 years designing engines, testing, measuring exhaust gas contamination, meeting increasingly tighter EPA restrictions about oil control, tearing apart countless engines for inspection at different time periods and none of them can figure out that you should be going wide open throttle after just a few Dyno pulls.

The Zl1 is a work of art, GM created this work of art, they know more about it than anyone. I personally have a hard time believing that Motoman knows more about care of the ZL1 during break in than GM.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:06 AM   #30
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I wasn't disagreeing with you. I just said that both of you guys make sense. I have seen stock racing four wheelers that were broken in differently and there was a huge difference in how they ran. I also have many close friends that race dirt track with 20-30k motors and they don't go through a 1500 mile break in period. This is a good topic. The way I took the information on the link is you don't beat on the engine. You don't run high rpms so I don't really see the problem with it. The recommended break in is similar in that you aren't supposed to maintain a certain speed or rpms. Jmo
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:14 AM   #31
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Racing engines are really different. You EXPECT to rebuild them after relatively low mileage. You want this one to last a couple of hundred thousand!
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:48 AM   #32
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Racing engines are really different. You EXPECT to rebuild them after relatively low mileage. You want this one to last a couple of hundred thousand!

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Old 04-01-2012, 10:09 AM   #33
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Maybe you plan on putting 200k on your Z, but not me! Lol
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:35 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonny Doyle View Post
It is amazing that OEMs have spent billions of dollars over the last 130 years designing engines, testing, measuring exhaust gas contamination, meeting increasingly tighter EPA restrictions about oil control, tearing apart countless engines for inspection at different time periods and none of them can figure out that you should be going wide open throttle after just a few Dyno pulls.

The Zl1 is a work of art, GM created this work of art, they know more about it than anyone. I personally have a hard time believing that Motoman knows more about care of the ZL1 during break in than GM.
Thank you for taking the time and sharing your many
years of exp concerning early engine wear. Discussions
and opinions such as yours are the reasons why this
website has grown in popularity over the past several
years.
I see you drive a firebird, one of my best memories of
buying a new car was my black 1977 Trans Am, followed
by my 1987 Buick Grand National. The ZL1 will be my
next great memory of purchasing a new car.
I look forward to reading your future posts on this
forum.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:17 PM   #35
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From the title I thought you had a robbery.
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2012 ZL1
2.55 upper, 10" lower pullies, Innovators west billet hub and sfi balancer, solid blower drive isolator, 50 mm idler kit, full length S/S headers no cats, comp cams custom grind cam, comp roller rocker trunion kit, comp push rods,dual valve springs retainers and locks, Injector dynamics ID850 inectors, Rotofab ZL1 cold air kit, Lingenfelter 160 thermostat, Rotofab intercooler reservoir, stock plugs, LS7 90mm throttle body, GTO clutch reservoir mod, my own custom catch can, Tuning by Jannetty, install by me.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:34 PM   #36
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I'd break the ZL1 in just like the CHEVY factory manual states before unleashing HELL at 1.5K miles. The whole point is to avoid ABUSING the machine while the components seat. I'm kind of a fanatic when it comes to breaking in a precision rifle barrel too. It may seem like voodoo to some folks, but it has ALWAYS worked for me & other friends who drive hard & shoot @ 1000m.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:08 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by stymie View Post
I'd break the ZL1 in just like the CHEVY factory manual states before unleashing HELL at 1.5K miles. The whole point is to avoid ABUSING the machine while the components seat. I'm kind of a fanatic when it comes to breaking in a precision rifle barrel too. It may seem like voodoo to some folks, but it has ALWAYS worked for me & other friends who drive hard & shoot @ 1000m.
You're a big shooter too? I do a lot of that as well. 100 yard sporters mainly but my cousin shoots a lot of 1000 yard stuff. The break in on barrels is almost as controversial as engines. Lol
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:49 PM   #38
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How do you break in a barrel, I just shoot, didn't even know there was a break in for rifle barrels.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:07 PM   #39
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I don't if any of us are going to be able to follow the break in as mentioned. I know most will want to but come on.. when you get into your 580HP beast are you really going to be able to resist. I doubt it..lol..
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
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How do you break in a barrel, I just shoot, didn't even know there was a break in for rifle barrels.
Oh yeah. Like I said. This is highly controversial as well. I know a lot of bench rest guys that just shoot them to break them in and say if they are lapped correctly you won't have any problems. Look it up on the Internet and you will see what I am talking about. Some of the guys are real fanatics about it and claim that if you don't break it in properly you will have a barrel that will foul very easily for the life of it
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:29 PM   #41
Lonny Doyle
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Maybe we all need to find some tree huggers to break our cars in for us, they will be too worried about the environment to stand in the gas.

The problem is I think they may all convert from tree hugger to motor head after driving something with a little more pep than a Prius.

Last edited by Lonny Doyle; 04-02-2012 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:57 AM   #42
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