My long awaited cam install has begun

[thahemp]

Yeah that would ruin that idea. I didn't know you had to take the heads off to get the lifters out. That's kind of a bummer.

[IDEALG]

So after a whole bunch of checking and modifying my dial indicator to sit straighter i come out real close to 109 icl. I noticed my lifter was bleeding very slightly at max lift so its probably screwing up my measurments. I have good clearance on my intake valve up to top dead center then after top dead center about 10 degree after it gets close with only like .030" left between the valve and piston.

I still need to check the exhaust clearance.

[thahemp]

Well that's good news. Nice progress all of the sudden.. hopefully you'll have smooth sailing from here on out. You deserve it.

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by thahemp

Well that's good news. Nice progress all of the sudden.. hopefully you'll have smooth sailing from here on out. You deserve it.

I just checked the exhaust valve I think i'm good. i have to run out now so i'll check it tomorrow morning. need to check the exhaust in a few more spot to be sure. if its good then i'm going for it.
Can't wait to get this thing rumbling.

[thahemp]

Man.. i hope everything works out. I wouldn't have learned anything from a smooth install. This was pretty priceless for people like me.

[thahemp]

I don't really know anything about the ECU's on these cars yet, but my last car was a Scion. Toyota's ECU is no good for a mod crowd. Mine wasn't at least. Piggyback was my best option.

Anyways... the point is... Couldn't some of these positions be discerned from ECU data? Is there no way to turn the computer on and use it to figure out when you're at TDC or BDC?

[thahemp]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48639

Pin 64 & 68 on the X2 pinout look promising.

64 D-BU/WH Camshaft Position Signal
68 WH/BK Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal

A simple ADC would probably yield data that could be used to polish installs like this.

[thahemp]

Ok... last spam post, I promise, but

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf

By comparing waveforms between signals, you should be able to discern what position the engine is in. It may be a little harder to generate a pattern on a scope when the engine isn't spinning quickly (idle for the engine, but faster than we can hand crank it). It has me curious at least.

[IDEALG]

never take a computers word for it. your going to have the engine ripped apart anyway always check it by hand.

[thahemp]

Originally Posted by IDEALG

never take a computers word for it. your going to have the engine ripped apart anyway always check it by hand.

You're probably right... especially in your situation where it's someone else's car and HAS to be right.

[IDEALG]

installing my new springs, retainers, seals and locks now

[thahemp]

Originally Posted by thahemp

You're probably right... especially in your situation where it's someone else's car and HAS to be right.

Oops. It is your car. I don't know why I got that spun around in my head. My mistake.

Springs look nice btw. Pretty slick.

[IDEALG]

I can't get the shims behind the oil pump as needed, btw oil pump went right back on lol. only reason it did though was because i have to take the oil pan out now anyway

I need to loosen the pick up tube and bend the bracket so the oil pump will move forward so i'm going to cut the sub frame brace so i can remove the oil pan with ease and then weld it or bolt it back in later. and then i can replace the oil pan gasket too so i won't be worrying about leaks later.

[thahemp]

Why does your cam install seem to be so much more complicated than it gets made out to be by most of the threads I've read? Is it the size of the cam? The timing assembly? Diligence?

It doesn't come off as intimidating... quite the opposite actually. Just goes to show you can work through anything if you're committed.

[NC-V]

Originally Posted by IDEALG

I can't get the shims behind the oil pump as needed, btw oil pump went right back on lol. only reason it did though was because i have to take the oil pan out now anyway

I need to loosen the pick up tube and bend the bracket so the oil pump will move forward so i'm going to cut the sub frame brace so i can remove the oil pan with ease and then weld it or bolt it back in later. and then i can replace the oil pan gasket too so i won't be worrying about leaks later.

Yeah, That is what makes the double chain a pain while in the car, the timing cover adjustment is the easy part. I usually only use doubles on stand built, Large cam motors but it's never a bad thing for added insurance.

What makes his more complicated is first like you said the size of the cam with stock heads and pistons for PTV clearance. The timing set is also a big factor. Being a double roller, the oil pump needs to be spaced out to clear the wider chain, and with the oil pump further forward now the pickup tube needs to be adjusted forward along with the timing cover needing clearancing.

[Rod10269]

shims? what shims are you speaking of..when i did the cam swap there was no shoms for the oil pump that i can remember. I had to drop the oil pan to replace the pickup tube seal ...seeing as when i cranked it for the first time no oil pressure so i cut out that brace you talking about an welded it back in.I think this is the best way to do it if you are going to replace the timing chain...so difficult to get the oil pump back on with the oil pan dropped an inch.

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by thahemp

Why does your cam install seem to be so much more complicated than it gets made out to be by most of the threads I've read? Is it the size of the cam? The timing assembly? Diligence?

It doesn't come off as intimidating... quite the opposite actually. Just goes to show you can work through anything if you're committed.

because i didn't buy a bolt in cam kit from someone and my timing gear set requires a little more work to install

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by NC-V

Yeah, That is what makes the double chain a pain while in the car, the timing cover adjustment is the easy part. I usually only use doubles on stand built, Large cam motors but it's never a bad thing for added insurance.

What makes his more complicated is first like you said the size of the cam with stock heads and pistons for PTV clearance. The timing set is also a big factor. Being a double roller, the oil pump needs to be spaced out to clear the wider chain, and with the oil pump further forward now the pickup tube needs to be adjusted forward along with the timing cover needing clearancing.

^ what he said

[thahemp]

That's kind of what i figured. You've done a great job keeping your cool. I think i'll stick with the single timing chain when i do mine.

[thahemp]

Out of curiosity... What is the reason for going with the double chain timing setup? Obviously it's going to be stronger, but it seems like overkill for some reason.

[IDEALG]

i only went with it because the price was right and i could advance/retard the cam up to 8 degrees

[IDEALG]

Trunion upgrade time. The trunion tool i bought from summit racing makes life easy.

[IDEALG]

Well trunion bearings are all done, valve springs are all on. I got one header on so far. i checked my pushrod length again becuase I didn't like what i came up with before and I'm going to send the 7.450 pushrods back and order 7.425 pushrods. So once i get those and my oil pan and timing cover gaskets i can finish putting this back together.

[thahemp]

Very eager to hear this monster you're creating. I should be doing my headers/cats in the next couple weeks. Can't wait!

[IDEALG]

Still getting it back together. Got the rockers torqued down, just got all my gaskets in today. hopefully will have it running tomorrow if i have enough time to get it back together.