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Old 04-17-2012, 07:28 PM   #1
1BAADSS
 
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REAR STRUT SPACERS

My car is lowered with PFADT drop springs and I wanted to raise the rear about 1/8" to 3/16". I spoke with Justice Pete about adding a plate between the frame and the upper strut mount and he informed me he has seen people do this and didn't think it would create any issues. He did request that when I did it I take some pix of the process so here it is. I'm not going to get into a ton of explanation because it is fairly straight forward but if you use any of the drop coil/strut install threads along with this it may clarify any questions regarding the removal and install of the struts.

First I jacked up and blocked the rear of the car and removed the rear wheels.
Next while supporting the lower control arm with a small hydraulic jack I removed the 4 upper attachments on the strut.
Then I removed the Sway bar to lower control arm attachment.
Next I removed the lower control arm to spindle attachment to allow the control arm to drop lower.
Then I slowly lowered the jack under the lower control arm until the top of the strut drops out of the frame.
Next I used a compass to draw and cut a 5 inch diameter circle out of a 8.5 X11 sheet of paper.



Then I slipped the piece of paper over the upper strut mount and traced out the outer shape of the of the upper flange.



Then I removed the paper and cut the outer shape that I traced.



Then I taped it to a thin piece of cardboard and transfered the inner circle and outer shape and cut it out. This way I had a stiffer template to work with.



Next I slipped the cardboard template over the upper strut mount and aligned the outer shape and taped it to the mount.



So I could come in from the bottom and trace the slot locations in the upper mount and removed the template.





I then took 2 sheets of aluminum stock and screwed them together so I could cut and drill both out at the same time.



First I drilled out the slots and then cut the outer periphery. I then filed, sanded and painted the plates.



There was not quite enough room to slide the plates in place over the top of the strut.



You have to remove the lower control arm to strut attachment and lift the bottom of the strut out of the control arm to drop the strut enough to slip the plate into place on top of the strut.


[IMG][/IMG]



You then have to re-attach all the lower attachments finger tight and then you can use the jack under the lower control arm to raise the assembly up until the upper attachment flange meets the frame so you can start the upper flange bolts.
Now you can tighten all the bolts to the proper torque specs and install the wheels
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Old 04-17-2012, 08:11 PM   #2
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Nice work...
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:27 AM   #3
axis
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That is extremely cool. Even nicer that you have some the equipment to do this. For the masses, it would just as easy to get a set of BMR 1in drop springs for the rear. At $120ish for the set, I think it would do about the same thing. I do applaud your ingenuity and skills. It's great to make things yourself.
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:42 AM   #4
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Axis,
Thanks for the compliments. Call me picky but, the issue I was trying to resolve stems from the fact that everything has a tolerance and with drop springs every car will set a tiny bit different depending on how all the tolerances stack up on your specific vehicle. I have seen many cars that used the drop springs that sit at very different heights. With coilovers you can fine tune that static height but with drop coils you don't have that option and whatever it is...it is. This was simply an option to assist me in fine tuning my static suspension height. Grant it some of us may not have the capability to do this in our garages but, a large number of us that are this engaged in our cars either do have the capability or know someone who does. The entire task was really not that in depth and none of the dimensions are that critical when making the plates with the acception of the thickness. The periphery is not critical as long as there is no interference to anything and the holes can be hugely oversized. It was really just a resolve to my issue that I thought I would share as a possible option for some. The whole deal only cost me about $30. Thanks for checking it out.
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:23 AM   #5
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Nice mod and well done. We do something similar for other applications and actually considered this for the Fifth gen in 1/8", 1/4, and 3/8" increments. As you already mentioned, every car is a little different and springs don't always yield the exact same results from car-to-car. Plus shims help when adjusting corner weights to balance a car. People can shift corner weights with coil-overs but unless your coil-over has independent ride height and spring adjustments, you are also changing spring rate. The shims allow corner weights to be shifted without effecting spring rate.
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:58 PM   #6
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1BAADSS, how much did the shims raise your ride height? My Pfadt/Apex springs lowered the rear of my vert 1-1/2" on one side , and 1-5/8 on the other. I'm needing to raise it back up some, but I don't really want to get a different set of springs.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:35 PM   #7
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That would be a cheap, but time intensive, way to corner balance your car for ppl without coilovers. Just use washers until you get it right and then cut it like you did from the right thickness.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:45 PM   #8
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My current problem is scraping my exhaust when driving around town. With my current wheel/tire combo, it's almost 3 inches lower than stock in the rear. I don't want to raise it more than I have to, so the wheels don't look too small with a large fender gap. If the OP could post how much he raised his with the thickness he used, that would give me a ratio to work with.
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