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Old 04-23-2012, 12:51 AM   #15

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it's threads like this that scare me. I have a set of RR bushings, but i am sending them back. I am going to try RR inserts first. Anyone have an idea of the relative benefit versus going with full on bushings?

But I also wonder this, if you can lower the RR why can't you just replace the bushing with the RR still attached? I was able to push out the rear trailing arm bushing with a much smaller clearance using a technique from a thread here. These same ideas will not work with the RR bushings?
M6, Pray Ported TB and MSD, E85, LTs, cats, Rotofab Dry, BMR Trailing Arms
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:04 AM   #16

Drives: 2010 SS RS
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Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Lots of rage and a really big hammer. Very tough on jack stands due to lack of leverage.

I tried different hammer weight, but couldn't get leverage on my back since car was on stands. I didn't want to use a pickle fork and damage the boot. The tie rod is sold with arms as a whole replacement part. After rage whacks with the various hammers, I gave up and searched for the Kent-Moore tool.

Got lucky and found a used one on eBay for <$30 shipped to Hawaii. Delayed work until the next weekend. That night, the day it arrived, went to the garage and 5 minutes later, pop... Man, that was easy.

I am a believer in Kent-Moore tools, although some can get pricey.

If you plan to replace the diff bushing, buy/rent the Cincy Tool.
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