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Old 04-23-2012, 07:44 PM   #1
Convert-11
 
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Traction Control

I’ve asked this before, but don’t believe there was a definitive answer. Could someone please explain what’s the intent of turning both the traction control off and stabilatrac on?

Press Traction Control button-
Once- traction control is deactivated
Twice- Stabilatrac is activated
Hold- both are activate (both lights come on)-what is this function for???

Didn’t find anything in the manual.

Thanks!
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:48 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Convert-11 View Post
I’ve asked this before, but don’t believe there was a definitive answer. Could someone please explain what’s the intent of turning both the traction control off and stabilatrac on?

Press Traction Control button-
Once- traction control is deactivated
Twice- Stabilatrac is activated
Hold- both are activate (both lights come on)-what is this function for???

Didn’t find anything in the manual.

Thanks!
Actually, I think when you press the button it turns off TC, ST and holding for 7sec. turns both "off".
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:13 PM   #3
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For the 2011 Camaro you will want to look in section 9 on page 41 for information on this system. You hit the button once to turn off Traction Control. You hit the button twice in rapid succession to active Competitive Mode which allows for a more sporty response from the vehicle and is for use on road courses and not public roads. This mode also allows for Launch Control on manual SS Camaros. As for holding the button down for the 7 seconds as mentioned the manual says nothing. I hope this helps to answer your question.

Jeff Morris, Chevrolet Customer Service
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:30 PM   #4
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The lights indicate when each of the two systems are de-activated. The default setting (no lights) is for both systems activated.

Hopefully getting this right, and in straightforward terms (someone correct me if I am wrong, please):

Traction control system (when active) monitors drive wheels and detects when one or both loses traction and begins to spin freely. The system then cuts power/torque to the drive wheels to let the tires reaquire grip. So while you are pressing the throttle, the system will divert some/all of the power to the wheels to prevent spinning the wheels.

Stabilitrak is slightly different. When that system is active, it detects lateral motion (side to side slipping, where the back end breaks loose and shifts to the side). The system then applies brakes on one or more wheels independently too attempt to autocorrect the slide and straighten the car's direction of travel.

The reason for folks wishing to deactivate these systems vary. Turning off the traction control system will allow you to do a burnout to clear debris from tires and to warm them up allowing better grip on takeoff from a stop ... ie: dragracing.

Turning Stabilitrak system off will allow the car to do donuts/drift and may be desired especially in an autocross event where breaking the backend loose briefly to make tight turns and change directions quickly has advantages.

For most driving situations, leaving these safety systems active is best ... they are designed to protect us from the "unexpected" and from ourselves. Deactivating these systems under certain circumstances is perfectly understandable (and I do so occasionally), but you need to understand what risks there are and what the handling changes to the vehicle will be under those circumstances and be prepared!
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:54 PM   #5
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GnyaTek- You’ve provided the closest response to an answer I have heard yet. I understand what they do, just wanted to confirm what I thought should be happening. Turning them both off (both lights on) should allow the car to be free without restrictions. Thank you!

Jeff, I was hoping you would jump in as the reason I am asking goes back to a post I submitted last year about power issues. I have tried my car with the traction control off and both the traction control and stabilatrac on (both lights on) to get the car to light up the tires, but it won’t. I can’t even get it to break loose around a corner. I’ve had the car into the dealer on several occasions, but no trouble signals so I’m told everything is fine. I’ve done the fuse pull, swapped out the MAF, etc. everything else I’ve read in posts. I can’t believe that a car rated at 400 hp or around 330 hp at the wheels (have an automatic) can’t break the tires loose from a stand still or even around a corner. I’m considering putting the car on a dyno just to see how much hp it really makes. Maybe I’m just expecting to much, but I don’t think so. Do you have any other suggestions?

Going to vent a little more. I’m currently renting a Maxima and this car pulls until I let off the gas. Sad to say that I have a bigger grin driving this sedan than my muscle car!
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:10 PM   #6
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Anybody have thoughts or possible explaination about why my car is powerless???
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:37 PM   #7
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Have you done the fuse pull?
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:41 PM   #8
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Anybody have thoughts or possible explaination about why my car is powerless???
Should have gotten the V-10
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:47 PM   #9
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I should have gotten the manual, but the wife also wanted to have fun.
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:47 PM   #10
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Have you dropped it down to 1st gear in manual mode with the nannies off?
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:48 PM   #11
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He did say he did the fuse pull. How many miles do you have? Mine's just starting to be able to break them loose (though I haven't done the whole TC thing due to sanity) and I'm approaching 5k miles..... Tires ain't cheap, but I totally get wanting to enjoy the burn.

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Old 04-24-2012, 04:52 PM   #12
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Tried pretty much everything I can think of and have read. Even pulled the cables off the battery for a while to see if the computer would reset!

I have just under 4,000 miles. I didn't start getting on it until just over 1500- I couldn't wait any longer as it was getting closer to fall. This is when my dissappointment started and the conversations and visits with the dealer and GM started.
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:44 PM   #13
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My old one really started to come alive at 3500 miles.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:02 PM   #14
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:11 PM   #15
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Anybody have thoughts or possible explaination about why my car is powerless???
Bud, go against the tide. My L99 was the same way until I got rid of that crappy 2011 L99 exhaust. 2.3/4 BBK mid x pipe and Magnaflow street axlebacks. Then I could roll at 5 mph and just press the throttle a bit more firmly and the tires would spin for like 2 car lengths. My 2012 LS3 stock axleback seems like it is straight through, I don't recall my L99 being straight through. Oh and after say like 15000 miles things change trust me. Seems like these engines need a lot of break in for the real power to come into play.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:35 PM   #16
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I picked up my L99 vert last summer and experienced some of the same issues ... sluggish power and inability to do a burnout or even squall the tires a bit. Part of the issue is that the vert is heavier than the coupe (by about 300 lbs). Also, the type and especially the size of tires keep grip on road surfaces QUITE well and make it difficult to spin em up for a burnout or even to slightly squall the tires.

It took about 3-4000 miles for my car to really waken up. I did a fuse pull earlier to see if it would help, but it didn't seem to do much, if anything. After it started to wake up, I found that it surprised me a couple times by trying to shift out from under me under aggressive turns from a stop.

As the tires have worn, it tends to break loose a bit more frequently (and inadvertantly) ... especially so when the temp dropped through winter as the tires do NOT grip as well below 45 degrees or so. I think I scared the hell out of my salesman when I took him for a ride topdown and entered the roadway at the dealership fairly aggressively. The temp had dropped to upper 40's and even with nannies on, the backend broke loose shifting about 30 degrees out of line further than intended. I backed off throttle as Stabilitrak started to kick in and was immediately squared away and ripping up the road ... must say it gave us both a rush, albeit an unepected one.

Even now, with 14k+ miles on the tires, to do a burnout requires a brakestand, though it does so reasonably easily (if and only if ya turn TC off)

And Convert-11, your orignal post stating that pressing the button twice "activated" Stabilitrak was what led me to explain each of the settings (since pressing the button twice actually deactivates). Wanted to make sure that you knew what each setting was and how to get it setup the way you were expecting ... sorry if I misunderstood ya!
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:57 PM   #17
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i felt the same way about my 11 vert. At 7000 miles i switched out my k&n typhoon for a vararam and got a tune. I walked out with a whole different car! My car has no trouble breaking loose now and is how i expected it to be when I got it broken in!!!
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:45 PM   #18
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You're taking it to a dealer and complaining about something you imagine your car should be able to do. But there isn't any hard evidence that anything's wrong. You really need to dyno your car so you at least have some point of reference, even though comparing to someone else's dyno results aren't really that accurate either. It's still better than having a tech try to troubleshoot something your gut says should happen.

This isn't a Corvette, even the Vette convertible weighs a good 900 pounds less than this car. Plus you have a few other things that aren't exactly in your favor (slightly down on power because of the L99, torque converter for a little more driveline loss, etc.). Plus, plus your whole argument has been revolving around the fact that you're unable to defeat something that the tire designers specifically engineered into the tires, namely to grip the road.

Seriously, you might actually have something wrong, but unless you bring something to the tech that supports your claim, it's all just conjecture. If you can prove that the car's messed up, you might be able to get them to reimburse the cost of your dyno run.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:44 PM   #19
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Thank you all for your responses and feedback!!!
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:13 PM   #20
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Great conversation!
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:39 AM   #21
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If you can get her to a dyno and have it tested. You should put down 320-335 HP. There is a thread on here somewhere with L99 Dyno runs. 98 degress outside and my car put down 336.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:59 PM   #22
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You have to look closer on page 9-41 in manual; in middle of page the last sentence says: If StabiliTrak needs to be turned off, press and hold the TCS/StabiliTrak button until the Traction Control Off light and the StabiliTrak Off light come on in the instrument panel cluster.
are you really chevy customer service??


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Old 01-16-2013, 05:08 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Chevrolet Customer Svc View Post
For the 2011 Camaro you will want to look in section 9 on page 41 for information on this system. You hit the button once to turn off Traction Control. You hit the button twice in rapid succession to active Competitive Mode which allows for a more sporty response from the vehicle and is for use on road courses and not public roads. This mode also allows for Launch Control on manual SS Camaros. As for holding the button down for the 7 seconds as mentioned the manual says nothing. I hope this helps to answer your question.

Jeff Morris, Chevrolet Customer Service
YOU have to look closer on page 9-41 in manual, it says: If StabiliTrak needs to be turned off, press and hold the TCS/StabiliTrak button until the Traction Control Off light and the StabiliTrak Off light come on in the instrument panel cluster.
are you really chevy customer service??
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:49 PM   #24
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GnyaTek- You’ve provided the closest response to an answer I have heard yet. I understand what they do, just wanted to confirm what I thought should be happening. Turning them both off (both lights on) should allow the car to be free without restrictions. Thank you!

Jeff, I was hoping you would jump in as the reason I am asking goes back to a post I submitted last year about power issues. I have tried my car with the traction control off and both the traction control and stabilatrac on (both lights on) to get the car to light up the tires, but it won’t. I can’t even get it to break loose around a corner. I’ve had the car into the dealer on several occasions, but no trouble signals so I’m told everything is fine. I’ve done the fuse pull, swapped out the MAF, etc. everything else I’ve read in posts. I can’t believe that a car rated at 400 hp or around 330 hp at the wheels (have an automatic) can’t break the tires loose from a stand still or even around a corner. I’m considering putting the car on a dyno just to see how much hp it really makes. Maybe I’m just expecting to much, but I don’t think so. Do you have any other suggestions?

Going to vent a little more. I’m currently renting a Maxima and this car pulls until I let off the gas. Sad to say that I have a bigger grin driving this sedan than my muscle car!
I'm gonna ask the obvious question since no one else has. You are using 93 octane gas, right? My car really woke up a after I installed the OTR intake and a fuse pull.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:00 AM   #25
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YOU have to look closer on page 9-41 in manual, it says: If StabiliTrak needs to be turned off, press and hold the TCS/StabiliTrak button until the Traction Control Off light and the StabiliTrak Off light come on in the instrument panel cluster.
are you really chevy customer service??
Jeff is no longer on the website. Is there a question that you have for us? Please let me know.

Brandon
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