Vararam V6 intake installed!

[KMPrenger]

Originally Posted by Sleez

installed mine today, i have the Mace ported intake and 25mm spacers, tight fit but seems like it should be ok. seems pretty square to the TB, the gap at the front is a bit smaller than the fob. there are openings around the ends, so that should be ok?

i also installed a cable clamp thingy to hold the breather filter, i'll get a pic tomorrow.

A bit smaller the fob might be a bit tight for good air flow, but I'm not sure. Hopefully it still works well for you. I love my vararam.

[ChadG]

Originally Posted by KMPrenger

A bit smaller the fob might be a bit tight for good air flow, but I'm not sure. Hopefully it still works well for you. I love my vararam.

Mine ends up getting to be a bit smaller than the key fob after heavy driving and I have had no issues, it still runs like a beast.

[cpages2]

I installed mine today, I have the 25mm spacer on IM and also ported TB.

I have to admit the space on front is smaller then I expected, also why did I have to cut the radiator mounts? Nothing seems to be hitting them at all.


- Mike

[pgustavson]

Originally Posted by cpages2

I installed mine today, I have the 25mm spacer on IM and also ported TB.

I have to admit the space on front is smaller then I expected, also why did I have to cut the radiator mounts? Nothing seems to be hitting them at all.


- Mike

Might not have needed to since you raised the height of the TB by 25mm...

[chozn4service]

Originally Posted by cpages2

I installed mine today, I have the 25mm spacer on IM and also ported TB.

I have to admit the space on front is smaller then I expected, also why did I have to cut the radiator mounts? Nothing seems to be hitting them at all.


- Mike

The cut on the brackets allows for the radiator to have a good tilt so that you'll have a good opening for the air to come through to the filter. Everyone in this install says you should have about a key fob thickness between that opening. I have the VMax TB as well as the Black Ice-Olater spacer and with some adjustment, I have at least the fob thickness for an opening.
Might try making some adjustments to get a litter more spacing.

[Sleez]

only issue i have, is the housing keeps coming loose in the rubber coupler, every time i am under the hood, the housing for the Vararam is loose.

I think it needs a ridge at the end to help the coupler clamp maintain tightness.

i keep a nut driver in the center console so i can keep it snug!

[SS785]

Originally Posted by Sleez

only issue i have, is the housing keeps coming loose in the rubber coupler, every time i am under the hood, the housing for the Vararam is loose.

I think it needs a ridge at the end to help the coupler clamp maintain tightness.

i keep a nut driver in the center console so i can keep it snug!

Had the same issue after putting the mace spacers. Ended up getting a 3.5 to 3 inch silicone reducer and works much better. (3.75 would probably be best along with a 3.75 clamp)

[Sleez]

Originally Posted by metalmm785

Had the same issue after putting the mace spacers. Ended up getting a 3.5 to 3 inch silicone reducer and works much better. (3.75 would probably be best along with a 3.75 clamp)

do you have any pics?

something like this; "3.00/3.625"" ID x 3"" High Performance Silicone, Reducer, Gloss Blue"?

[ChadG]

Originally Posted by Sleez

only issue i have, is the housing keeps coming loose in the rubber coupler, every time i am under the hood, the housing for the Vararam is loose.

I think it needs a ridge at the end to help the coupler clamp maintain tightness.

i keep a nut driver in the center console so i can keep it snug!

If you're not using turbo clamps, you should. They are super cheap and you can torque them down to prevent movement between the TB and Vararam without having to worry about distorting the plastic.

[Sleez]

Originally Posted by ChadG

If you're not using turbo clamps, you should. They are super cheap and you can torque them down to prevent movement between the TB and Vararam without having to worry about distorting the plastic.

i will look into those, thanks.

back to the reducers;

like this one? 3 - 3.5; $25



http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/VIB2774B.htm

[Sleez]

Originally Posted by ChadG

If you're not using turbo clamps, you should. They are super cheap and you can torque them down to prevent movement between the TB and Vararam without having to worry about distorting the plastic.

like these?

Heavy-Duty Constant-Torque Clamps for Silicone Hoses

Designed for clamping of silicone/soft hoses. 100% Stainless Steel construction. A patented Belleville spring mechanism permits the CONSTANT TORQUE clamp to automatically adjust diameter due to compression set or any expansion/contraction of hose due to changes in operational or environmental temperatures. An integral extended liner covers the gears slots of the extra-wide band to prevent hose damage and ensure complete and even sealing pressure.

[Sleez]

or, more like these standard ones?

Standard Heavy Duty T-Bolt Clamp

A heavy duty method of connecting silicone hose and tubing. Carbon steel bolt and nut with 100% Stainless Steel band.

[Eric59]

Originally Posted by ChadG

If you're not using turbo clamps, you should. They are super cheap and you can torque them down to prevent movement between the TB and Vararam without having to worry about distorting the plastic.

Yes you need to use turbo clamps. I've been using them also and haven't had an issue since.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[Eric59]

Originally Posted by Sleez

or, more like these standard ones?

Standard Heavy Duty T-Bolt Clamp

A heavy duty method of connecting silicone hose and tubing. Carbon steel bolt and nut with 100% Stainless Steel band.

This is what I'm using. My intake hasn't moved since I started using them.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[Sleez]

Originally Posted by Eric59

This is what I'm using. My intake hasn't moved since I started using them.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

cool, thanks!

[Sleez]

think i am going to order the 3"/3.6265" x 3" reducer and 2 T-Bolt clamps.

$26.14 plus tax and ship, not too bad!

[67 GTO]

I used these clamps, work fine.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...postcount=3461

[SS785]

Originally Posted by Sleez

i will look into those, thanks.

back to the reducers;

like this one? 3 - 3.5; $25



http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/VIB2774B.htm

I see the other guys answered you. Yea, like that but do the next size up if you can and buy some t clamps. I did 3.5 and had to modify it to the point that is not pretty to look at but works. 3.6 would have been better
I got mine at siliconeintakes.com. Just find whoever is cheapest

[Sleez]

Originally Posted by metalmm785

I see the other guys answered you. Yea, like that but do the next size up if you can and buy some t clamps. I did 3.5 and had to modify it to the point that is not pretty to look at but works. 3.6 would have been better
I got mine at siliconeintakes.com. Just find whoever is cheapest

i ordered from siliconehose.com

i ordered the 3" by 3.625", 3" long (every one i saw was this long), and 2 appropriate sized T-bolt clamps.

i just measured the one that came with the Vararam, it is rather short, like 1.5" long.

did the length of the reducer cause an issue?

maybe i can trim a bit of the length?

[SS785]

Yes, you are going to have to trim it. Use an exacto knife or a blade to make it shorter and you will be set!

[Sleez]

Originally Posted by metalmm785

Yes, you are going to have to trim it. Use an exacto knife or a blade to make it shorter and you will be set!

cool, thanks again!

[KMPrenger]

Please explain to me why a reducer is needed? Yes I know because the intake is raised it is slipping, but the intake horn and the TB intake are the same size, so why would you use a hose that is larger on one end?

Sorry maybe I'm just confused but I'd like to see a picture and see how this is used.

I would think that just using the turbo clamps alone would do the trick.

[pgustavson]

Originally Posted by KMPrenger

Please explain to me why a reducer is needed? Yes I know because the intake is raised it is slipping, but the intake horn and the TB intake are the same size, so why would you use a hose that is larger on one end?

Sorry maybe I'm just confused but I'd like to see a picture and see how this is used.

I would think that just using the turbo clamps alone would do the trick.

The horn necks down to the diameter of the TB. So I'm assuming they must be running the wide end of the silicone coupler over the wide part of the Vararam horn. The narrower side couples the horn to the TB. That's my guess. I found that the t-clamps alone really do a good job of keeping the Vararam held firm. BUT - I've noticed some of the crushing of the horn that has been shown in the past. I wish it was made of a stiffer plastic or had some stiffening structure added to it.

[Sleez]

got it in today, just installed it, after cutting 2" off the big end.

the clamps i ordered; one is too small, i didn't take in account of the thickness of the hose coupler!!!

i reused the reg hose clamp on the tb end, and the t-bolt on the vararam end.

wouldn't cinch up right!!

i flipped the coupler around, and now it at least cinches up fine.

time will tell.

i think just adding the t-bolt clamps would have been sufficient.

but since the coupler is blue, i like it, as long as it stays snug!!

[chevy 3]

I did this to my terminator hood. The holes line up over the vararam intake.