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Old 02-05-2012, 06:25 PM   #1
jwithers2005
 
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DIY Torque converter swap article?

can anyone send me the link to any articles with helpful info about swapping out a 6l80e torque converter? I bought a new billet unit from FTI and I'll be working on installing it this week..

I know the basics and Ive swapped out a few in the past, but never on a 6l80e..
just looking for all helpful information available before I get into the swap..
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:18 PM   #2
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I've been looking but never found anything as I'll be trying to undertake the same project.

If you found anything, let me know!
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Old 06-21-2012, 02:16 PM   #3
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Did you guys ever find one???
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:28 PM   #4
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:34 PM   #5
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DIY FTI

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwithers2005 View Post
can anyone send me the link to any articles with helpful info about swapping out a 6l80e torque converter? I bought a new billet unit from FTI and I'll be working on installing it this week..

I know the basics and Ive swapped out a few in the past, but never on a 6l80e..
just looking for all helpful information available before I get into the swap..
I just bought the tripple disk.... Was this a DIY then you had it reprogrammed?
Did you do it on four jack stands? How difficult was dropping the tranny?

Thanks for any help
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ject View Post
I've been looking but never found anything as I'll be trying to undertake the same project.

If you found anything, let me know!
Did you do this in the garage?
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaiderSS View Post
Did you do this in the garage?
Yes, I did it in the garage with 12 ton stands to get enough height for the transmission.
It was actually easier than I thought it would be. Only hard part is the very top bolt... complete PITA to get back in.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:05 PM   #8
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I got to the top bolt by jacking up the back of the transmission, and tilting the engine forward. Then I went in from the engine compartment. Was pretty easy actually. Just put in all the other bolts first, and lift the tranny before you bolt the cross member back up.

I also had to take the passenger side coil packs and mounting bracket off so I could get my hand back there, but that takes about 5 minutes.

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Last edited by Jayrcr3; 08-21-2013 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:24 PM   #9
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I believe I still have the GM service manual instructions for tranny removal and install, but it's for the M6. If someone would like them, you can Pm me your email address, and I will send them to you.

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Old 08-22-2013, 10:58 AM   #10
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Transmission Replacement

Note: NEW cooler pipe O-rings and torque converter bolts will be required each time the transmission is removed and installed.

Removal Procedure

1. Remove the exhaust system. Refer to Exhaust Muffler with Resonator, Exhaust, and Tail Pipe Replacement ( See: Muffler > Removal and Replacement > Exhaust Muffler with Resonator, Exhaust, and Tail Pipe Replacement).
2. Remove the catalytic converters. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement - Left Side ( See: Catalytic Converter > Removal and Replacement > Catalytic Converter Replacement - Left Side) and Catalytic Converter Replacement - Right Side ( See: Catalytic Converter > Removal and Replacement > Catalytic Converter Replacement - Right Side).
3. Remove the propeller shaft. Refer to Two-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement ( See: Drive/Propeller Shaft > Removal and Replacement > Two-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement).
4. Disconnect the shift linkage from the transmission.


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5. Remove the transmission vent hose from the retaining clips (6) on the transmission support.


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6. Disconnect the transmission wiring harness connector (4) from the transmission by releasing the locking mechanism and rotating the latch counterclockwise.
7. Remove the wiring harness retainers (1) from the transmission.
8. Remove the oxygen sensor wiring harness connector (2) from the transmission.
9. Place an oil drain pan under the transmission fluid cooler pipes.


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10. Remove the transmission fluid cooler pipes (1) from the transmission, and position aside.
11. Remove and discard the O-rings. Do NOT reuse the O-rings.
12. Plug the open outlet ports to prevent fluid loss and contamination.


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13. Remove the transmission close out plug (1).
14. Mark the torque converter to flexplate/flywheel orientation to ensure proper realignment.
15. Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Replacement ( See: Starter Motor > Removal and Replacement).
16. Remove the right side transmission torque converter cover.


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17. Repeat the following steps for all torque converter bolts (1):

1. Rotate the harmonic balancer center bolt clockwise ONLY, in order to align the torque converter bolt with the access hole.
2. Remove and discard the torque converter bolts.

18. Support the transmission with a suitable transmission jack.
19. Remove the transmission support. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement ( See: Transmission Mount, A/T > Removal and Replacement > Transmission Mount Replacement).
20. Slightly lower the transmission to gain access to the upper transmission retaining bolts.


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21. Disconnect the transmission vent hose (4) from the transmission vent pipe (1).


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22. Remove the wiring harness retainers (2) from the transmission.
23. Position the transmission wiring harness (1) and vent tube out of the way.
24. On V6 models, remove the heater inlet and outlet pipe to access the top transmission bolt. Refer to Heater Inlet And Outlet Pipe Replacement ( See: Coolant Line/Hose > Removal and Replacement > Heater Inlet And Outlet Pipe Replacement).


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25. Remove the transmission mounting bolts (1-6).
26. Remove the remaining two transmission bolts from the transmission.
27. Pull the transmission free from the engine dowels.

Note: Ensure clearance is maintained between the transmission and the following:

* The wiring harness
* The vent tube
* The cooler pipes

28. Carefully lower the transmission from the vehicle.
29. Flush the transmission oil cooler lines. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Flushing and Flow Test ( See: Fluid - A/T > Component Tests and General Diagnostics > 6L45/6L50/6L80/6L90 - Automatic Transmission).

Installation Procedure

Note: Ensure clearance is maintained between the transmission and the following:

* The wiring harness
* The vent tube
* The cooler pipes

1. Using the transmission jack, carefully raise the transmission to the engine.


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2. Align the transmission with the engine dowels.

Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution ( See: Vehicle > Vehicle Damage Warnings > Fastener Caution).

3. Install the transmission mounting bolts and tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb ft).


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4. Position the engine wiring harness (1) to the original location.
5. Install the wiring harness retainers (2) to the transmission.


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6. Connect the transmission vent hose (4) to the transmission vent pipe (1).
7. Raise the transmission to the installed position.
8. Install the transmission support. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement ( See: Transmission Mount, A/T > Removal and Replacement > Transmission Mount Replacement).
9. Remove the jack from under the transmission.
10. Align the torque converter to flexplate/flywheel orientation marks made during the removal procedure.


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Note: Torque converter bolts are self locking and must be replaced with NEW torque converter bolts every time the bolts are removed.

11. Complete the following steps for all torque converter bolts (1):

1. Rotate the harmonic balancer center bolt clockwise ONLY, in order to align the torque converter bolt holes in the flexplate/flywheel with the access hole in the engine block.
2. To aid in alignment of the torque converter to the flexplate/flywheel. Install all NEW torque converter bolts before fully tightening to 65 Nm (48 lb ft).

12. Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Replacement ( See: Starter Motor > Removal and Replacement).
13. Install the right side transmission torque converter cover.


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14. Install the transmission close out plug (1).


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15. Place NEW O-rings over the transmission fluid cooler pipes.
16. Install the transmission fluid cooler pipes (1) to the transmission.


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17. Install the oxygen sensor wiring harness connector (2) to the transmission.
18. Install the wiring harness retainers (1) to the transmission.
19. Connect the transmission wiring harness connector (5) to the transmission by rotating the locking latch clockwise.


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20. Install the transmission vent hose to the retaining clips (6) on the transmission support.
21. On V6 models, install the heater inlet and outlet pipe. Refer to Heater Inlet And Outlet Pipe Replacement ( See: Coolant Line/Hose > Removal and Replacement > Heater Inlet And Outlet Pipe Replacement).


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22. Install the shift linkage to the transmission. Refer to Shift Control Linkage Replacement ( See: Shift Linkage, A/T > Removal and Replacement > 6L45/6L50/6L80/6L90 - Automatic Transmission).
23. Install the propeller shaft. Refer to Two-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement ( See: Drive/Propeller Shaft > Removal and Replacement > Two-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement).
24. Install the catalytic converters. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement - Left Side ( See: Catalytic Converter > Removal and Replacement > Catalytic Converter Replacement - Left Side) and Catalytic Converter Replacement - Right Side ( See: Catalytic Converter > Removal and Replacement > Catalytic Converter Replacement - Right Side).
25. Install the exhaust system. Refer to Exhaust Muffler with Resonator, Exhaust, and Tail Pipe Replacement ( See: Muffler > Removal and Replacement > Exhaust Muffler with Resonator, Exhaust, and Tail Pipe Replacement).
26. Lower the vehicle.
27. Check the transmission fluid level and fill if necessary.
28. Adjust the shift control linkage. Refer to Shift Control Linkage Adjustment ( See: Shift Linkage, A/T > Adjustments > 6L45/6L50/6L80/6L90 - Automatic Transmission).

Transmission Final Test and Inspection

Complete the following procedure after the transmission is installed in the vehicle:

1. With the ignition OFF or disconnected, crank the engine several times. Listen for any unusual noises or evidence that any parts are binding.
2. Start the engine and listen for abnormal conditions.
3. While the engine continues to idle, raise and support the vehicle.
4. Inspect for fluid leaks while the engine is idling.
5. Perform a final inspection for the proper fluid level.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. If a NEW TCM has been installed into the vehicle, the NEW module needs to be reprogrammed. Refer to Service Programming System (SPS) ( See: Vehicle > Programming and Relearning > Service Programming System (SPS)).

Note: The Service Fast Learn Adapts procedure must be performed when one of the following repairs have been made to the vehicle. Failure to perform the procedure after one of the following repairs may result in poor transmission performance, as well as transmission DTCs being set:

* Transmission internal service/overhaul
* Valve body repair or replacement
* Control solenoid valve assembly replacement
* TCM software/calibration update
* Any service in response to a shift quality concern

8. Perform the service fast learn adapts. Refer to Service Fast Learn Adapts ( See: Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Programming and Relearning > Service Fast Learn Adapts).
9. Road test the vehicle. Refer to Road Test ( See: Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Road Test).
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:05 AM   #11
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Make sure BEFORE you start the engine. The convertor MUST spin freely after the bellhousing bolts are tight. If not STOP right there your convertor is not seated into the pump correctly. I would suggest install the 4 lower bellhousing bolts ( 2 on each side ) check the convertor to make sure it spins. Then continue from there the rest of the install. Just my $.02 on the subject.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:39 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the info and tips!
I started this Sunday and now I'm down to the last 2 upper trans mounting bolts before I can drop it and swap the TC...
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etmx183 View Post
Make sure BEFORE you start the engine. The convertor MUST spin freely after the bellhousing bolts are tight. If not STOP right there your convertor is not seated into the pump correctly. I would suggest install the 4 lower bellhousing bolts ( 2 on each side ) check the convertor to make sure it spins. Then continue from there the rest of the install. Just my $.02 on the subject.
Got the transmission down, installed TCI multi disk converter making sure it was completely seated and it spun freely after all 8 engine bolts were retightened.

My concern is the TCI converter seated deep enough to have a 3/8" gap between the converter and the fly wheel but it pulled tight when I torqued the new converter bolts. the collar didn't seem to come unseated from the pump shaft....

Is that normal?
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:19 AM   #14
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3/8" is a bit much. Find some flat washers and measure their thickness to get them all close to the same thickness as possible. Then stick 1 washer in each convertor bolt hole between the flexplate and the convertor, then stick the bolt in. 1/8 clearance is good 3/8' a bit much IMO.
This is from TCI:

5. What type of clearance should I have between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling the converter forward and bolting it to flexplate?

Answer: You should have 1/8" (.125") to 3/16" (.1875") between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling the converter forward and bolting it to flexplate.
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:02 PM   #15
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Finished converter install and haven't had it tuned yet but it already shifts and manners smoother than stock but I haven't got on the pedal... Cant I run it without updating my tune?
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