noob sub and amp question

[2010camarolt]

Originally Posted by ForgedReality

Pay attention to the specs on whatever box you get for air volume. Try to get it closely matched to a subwoofer for optimum performance. That one says 1.2 cu. ft., so you want a sub that has a suggested box volume close to that.

JL makes some of the best subs but this is probably more than you're willing to spend:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-12W3v3-2.html

That one likes 1.25cu.ft. so it would be a good match. I have two of those in my car and I couldn't be happier.

yea a little bit more then i wanted to spend. and the subthump box and the doubledmod box hav the same 1.2 cu. ft.


if do this i think im going to go with this sub
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-W30...ref=pd_sim_e_3

[ForgedReality]

Go for it! Whatever you choose, be sure you get the positives and negatives lined up, or it will sound shitty as it tries to push the speaker driver in the wrong direction.

Make sure your amp is wired up and THEN reconnect your battery, positive first. When you put your ground on, there may be a small spark as the capacitors in the amp charge up, but don't worry about it.

Since the battery is in the trunk, and really close to mu subs, I hooked my amp directly to its positive and negative using 4ga wire. There is also a remote wire that tells the amp when to turn on, so that it's not just on all the time. I used a wire harness that connects to the factory speaker connecters prior to the factory amp. This has a remote wire coming off of it, so I used that. Some say to use the cigarette lighter, but that only works when the key is in the on position or the car is running. As soon as the key is out, your sub will turn off, so you can't have it working while the stereo is on until you open your door, if that makes sense.

[2010camarolt]

i have the non ba system so dont i have to use a loc or soemthing like that? dont i have to connect it to the rear speakers. i dont know if im going to be able to install this myself

[ForgedReality]

Originally Posted by 2010camarolt

i have the non ba system so dont i have to use a loc or soemthing like that? dont i have to connect it to the rear speakers. i dont know if im going to be able to install this myself

Yeah I'm not sure how that would work for you, but in every install I've done in a car, there has been ways to do it without cutting into any of the factory wiring. I prefer to do it that way if I can, that way it's completely reversible.

Maybe somebody here who has installed a sub with a non-ba system can chime in on how they did theirs...

[2010camarolt]

http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kac-81...ds=pioneer+amp

or
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ndle.html#tabs


picking a sound system out is not easy

[2010camarolt]

i just pmed a vendor to see if they have a combo i would like.

[One Sick Camaro]

damn if you wanna wait you can have my full old system with the boston stuff changing everyhting again want it louder and clear.

[2010camarolt]

Originally Posted by One Sick Camaro

damn if you wanna wait you can have my full old system with the boston stuff changing everyhting again want it louder and clear.

are they 12inch subs? there plenty loud for me.

[Forte]

If I wanted to go with two Of these subs, would I get two of those amps? Or recommendation for another amp to power two of those pioneers?

Also, would it plug easily into the current existing ba factory system in a 2011? Would anything change or would it just be added bass to the existing system?

Originally Posted by darkrider01

Pioneer makes pretty solid stuff.

As cheap as the 12's are, why not just go with the 12" Pioneer?

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-W30...ref=pd_sim_e_3

Pair it up to a little amp like this one and you should be set.

http://www.amazon.com/MBQUART-FX1-40...335183&sr=1-10

Remember, you can always turn it down

[ForgedReality]

Originally Posted by Forte

If I wanted to go with two Of these subs, would I get two of those amps? Or recommendation for another amp to power two of those pioneers?

Also, would it plug easily into the current existing ba factory system in a 2011? Would anything change or would it just be added bass to the existing system?

You should only need one amp if you're running dual subs. Just make sure you get one powerful enough to power both subs.

I used Steve @ Subthump's t-harness. Basically, it's a breakout connector that hooks up to your system's pre-amp output on the back of your factory amp that provides RCA connections for sending signal to your sub amp. This way, you don't have to cut any wires, and your factory setup doesn't interfere with your sub.

[innit]

i thought the t-harness was for a BA system?

[ForgedReality]

Originally Posted by innit

i thought the t-harness was for a BA system?

Prolly. Does Forte not have BA?

[Supermaro585HP]

If anyone is interested I have a sub bow that I got through Chevy about 6 months ago that I paid $1000.00 for. Make me a offer. I ended up putting a whole new system in and have no use for it. It hooks right into the stock system. PM me with what you think it is worth.

[Forte]

So that setup wont take any bass away from the 6x9's right? I've had that issue with every system I've had in any car, it's like the back speakers become useless and it's quite annoying.

And yes I have the BA system

Originally Posted by ForgedReality

You should only need one amp if you're running dual subs. Just make sure you get one powerful enough to power both subs.

I used Steve @ Subthump's t-harness. Basically, it's a breakout connector that hooks up to your system's pre-amp output on the back of your factory amp that provides RCA connections for sending signal to your sub amp. This way, you don't have to cut any wires, and your factory setup doesn't interfere with your sub.

[Camaroshark]

Originally Posted by 2010camarolt

okay so if i go with the subthump box now i need to find a sub by itself. time to look again!

They sell a whole kit. I bought the 12" subthump stealth kit and it came with wiring, amp, sub, and stealth box. It's awesome!!!!