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Old 08-03-2012, 06:50 PM   #1
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Cam recommendations?

I think im about ready to finally pull the trigger on my LS3

Im really interested in JRE 480, LG G6x , and the lethal night fury.

i'd like to hear how you feel about yours and also a recommendation on a full parts list ? should I do the full kit or what is a must to change out with my cam selection?

I prefer the car to feel and sound like a mans car and enjoy having to "drive" my car!
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:00 PM   #2
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Me too....................................
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:54 PM   #3
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i got the lg g6x3 and love it , its a bit on the bigger side of things and car dont like crusin at 55 in 6th, but , it pulls hard and sounds awesome , if u think u will ever go f/i tho go with jre
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:07 PM   #4
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I've been looking in to cams, I think I got it down to the TSP LS-3 231/236 Or Night Fury, OR just calling lunati and having them grind me one.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:18 AM   #5
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i got the lg g6x3 and love it , its a bit on the bigger side of things and car dont like crusin at 55 in 6th, but , it pulls hard and sounds awesome , if u think u will ever go f/i tho go with jre
Can some of that be tuned to cruise better? I'm looking at getting a cam too but I don't want to lose driveability for cruising.
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:58 AM   #6
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:55 AM   #7
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if you want to enjoy driving your car as stated I would not go too big.....

something in the high 220 range, especially depending on who tunes your car. i have seen a lot of cars have trouble idling, returning to idle, etc with a tune from some well known tuners, not sure why except that it is almost impossible to make money tuning idle properly since it takes quite a while to do it right. tuning part throttle and WOT is cake, the idle is where all the problems are and what separates the ones who truly know whats up.

If I were you I would get something no bigger than 224/232 on a 114 to 116. I would keep some negative overlap, maybe -10 or so. Once you get positive overlap like +10 you start dealing with exhaust fumes, very rough idle, etc and the one I recommended will still idle "manly." You will get 90% of a bigger cams peak power, more down low, and way better driveability.

Big cams with 70 more peak hp are cool on the dyno but not for the street, IMO. Lots of people will say, "well I drive mine on the street just fine." Sure, so did I. On sunny sundays, no traffic, no lights, no parking lots, etc. Daily driver is a different ball game and different people have very difference tolerance levels/ranges.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:13 AM   #8
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G6x3. My daily driver. 70-100 miles a day. Takes a little getting used to, maybe a week or so, then you don't even remember what stock was. But your permagrin after 3000rpm will remain forever
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:41 AM   #9
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I have the Night Fury and love it. The only time it bucks and gets uncomfortable is when youre decelerating around 1800-1500rpm. If youre foots on the gas, it drives like stock at any rpm. You will change your driving habits depending on when it wants to surge. 90% of surge can be tuned out, but you wont get all of it, it is a cammed engine now! I wouldnt change it for anything. The whole car shakes very noticeably at idle, and theres no hiding the sound! Do an entire cam kit. You HAVE to change all parts associated with the cam/valvetrain. Some cams (like the Night Fury) require a 3 bolt timing gear and bolts.
My mod list is:
Night Fury Cam package
SW Long tubes (catted)
ColdAirInductions CAI
25% Underdrive Pulley
Magnaflow Axelback
C5R Timing Chain
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:40 PM   #10
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you can tune that out. someone missed it.....two hints, base idle airflow does more than just at idle, and your idle/coastdown/running spark tables may need work.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:52 PM   #11
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I knew surging had to due with timing, but I also thought it was a lean condition. When DFCO turns on and shuts the injectors off, it creates a lean condition. Thats all I attributed that too. I will look into that today, and throw some timing in there. Thanks a lot!!
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:44 PM   #12
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you may not want more timing necessarily. let me know if you get it or not. :-)
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:53 PM   #13
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Ok, cool! Thanks! How far in SA are you? I live in Kyle, just incase the car doesnt respond to what im doing.
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Higgs Boson View Post
if you want to enjoy driving your car as stated I would not go too big.....

something in the high 220 range, especially depending on who tunes your car. i have seen a lot of cars have trouble idling, returning to idle, etc with a tune from some well known tuners, not sure why except that it is almost impossible to make money tuning idle properly since it takes quite a while to do it right. tuning part throttle and WOT is cake, the idle is where all the problems are and what separates the ones who truly know whats up.

If I were you I would get something no bigger than 224/232 on a 114 to 116. I would keep some negative overlap, maybe -10 or so. Once you get positive overlap like +10 you start dealing with exhaust fumes, very rough idle, etc and the one I recommended will still idle "manly." You will get 90% of a bigger cams peak power, more down low, and way better driveability.

Big cams with 70 more peak hp are cool on the dyno but not for the street, IMO. Lots of people will say, "well I drive mine on the street just fine." Sure, so did I. On sunny sundays, no traffic, no lights, no parking lots, etc. Daily driver is a different ball game and different people have very difference tolerance levels/ranges.

Thank you, great advice
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:04 PM   #15
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Ok, cool! Thanks! How far in SA are you? I live in Kyle, just incase the car doesnt respond to what im doing.
I live in Boerne but you can pm me and we can call each other. no need to drive a lot.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:06 PM   #16
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to be honest , it dont bother me about crusing or anything im use to driving old cars with big cams , and yes your tuner can tune it to do better a low speeds. for instance my car idles at 1000 or so , but as soon as my wheels start rolling it idles at 1500 to 2000 depending on speed , it keeps the car from jerking , it makes all the diff in the world but as soon as my clutch is pushed it goes back to normal or if im stopped it back to normal. 1000 rpm idle
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:08 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Rage View Post
G6x3. My daily driver. 70-100 miles a day. Takes a little getting used to, maybe a week or so, then you don't even remember what stock was. But your permagrin after 3000rpm will remain forever
how many miles you got on that DD?
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:09 PM   #18
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i was going with the lg g5x3 cause i was afraid of the drivabilty tha some say but , i got to drive a friends that has the g6 and with the right tuner its cake , i do just as much 5 to 10mph driving as i do 60 and 70.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:10 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 376LS3 View Post
I have the Night Fury and love it. The only time it bucks and gets uncomfortable is when youre decelerating around 1800-1500rpm. If youre foots on the gas, it drives like stock at any rpm. You will change your driving habits depending on when it wants to surge. 90% of surge can be tuned out, but you wont get all of it, it is a cammed engine now! I wouldnt change it for anything. The whole car shakes very noticeably at idle, and theres no hiding the sound! Do an entire cam kit. You HAVE to change all parts associated with the cam/valvetrain. Some cams (like the Night Fury) require a 3 bolt timing gear and bolts.
My mod list is:
Night Fury Cam package
SW Long tubes (catted)
ColdAirInductions CAI
25% Underdrive Pulley
Magnaflow Axelback
C5R Timing Chain
LS2 Dampener
yea thats what im talkin about how my tuner makes my car idle high as soon as the car starts to move it gets rid of that , it uses more gas but im not worried about that.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:11 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by dekan513 View Post
to be honest , it dont bother me about crusing or anything im use to driving old cars with big cams , and yes your tuner can tune it to do better a low speeds. for instance my car idles at 1000 or so , but as soon as my wheels start rolling it idles at 1500 to 2000 depending on speed , it keeps the car from jerking , it makes all the diff in the world but as soon as my clutch is pushed it goes back to normal or if im stopped it back to normal. 1000 rpm idle
dam thats a high idle. but it makes sense if the RPM stay higher the car jerks less.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:14 PM   #21
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950 rpm is whats need to keep the car running with the g6x3 its a big ass cam , but the 1500 or 2000 when moving keeps the car from jerkin when slowing down with the motor only. (engine brake). but as soon as u press the clutch its back to 950 to 1000.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:16 PM   #22
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i can put my car in 6th gear with its cam and tune at 60 mph and it wont jerk , the only time it jerks is like free wheeling in gear.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:22 PM   #23
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Ive got my idle at 850rpm. Im gonna take a look at the table Hobbs suggested. I never touched the decel timing table. Ill see if it wants more timing or less timing, and report back with any findings.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:24 PM   #24
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i can put my car in 6th gear with its cam and tune at 60 mph and it wont jerk , the only time it jerks is like free wheeling in gear.
Thats exactly how mine is. I just usually dont use 6th at 60 because I lost some torque down low, and dont want to bog the engine down.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:50 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson View Post
if you want to enjoy driving your car as stated I would not go too big.....

something in the high 220 range, especially depending on who tunes your car. i have seen a lot of cars have trouble idling, returning to idle, etc with a tune from some well known tuners, not sure why except that it is almost impossible to make money tuning idle properly since it takes quite a while to do it right. tuning part throttle and WOT is cake, the idle is where all the problems are and what separates the ones who truly know whats up.

If I were you I would get something no bigger than 224/232 on a 114 to 116. I would keep some negative overlap, maybe -10 or so. Once you get positive overlap like +10 you start dealing with exhaust fumes, very rough idle, etc and the one I recommended will still idle "manly." You will get 90% of a bigger cams peak power, more down low, and way better driveability.

Big cams with 70 more peak hp are cool on the dyno but not for the street, IMO. Lots of people will say, "well I drive mine on the street just fine." Sure, so did I. On sunny sundays, no traffic, no lights, no parking lots, etc. Daily driver is a different ball game and different people have very difference tolerance levels/ranges.

I couldnt agree more. The more aggressive a cam, the more u ill hate it...in traffic, parking, sitting at the light giving it gas as not to shut off
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