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Old 07-22-2012, 05:37 AM   #1
Brutal SS


 
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Advice on Torque Wrenches

A quick question from a mechanical novice: What torque wrench do you recommend for the sole purpose of returning the lug nuts back to GM spec. (140 lb/ft)?

I want to remove my wheels in order to paint my brake calipers and rusty rotor hats, and I really don't anticipate using this tool for any other purpose, so I don't mind going for the cheap made in Taiwan model. Suggestions? Thanks!
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:16 AM   #2
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Just go to harbor freight if you want a disposable torque wrench ($20). Although I got a sears one which is much nicer for around $100. If you do any suspension or engine work a good torque wrench is necessary.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:31 AM   #3
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Found one at o'reilly's for $30 or so. It's pretty good. Just needed a 22mm socket.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:26 AM   #4
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As a calibration technician is the Air Force, torque wrenches are items we calibrate on a regular. I would tell you to look for any Snap-on brand wrench preferably a ratchet head type. They tend to hold there calibration longer meaning if by a cheap off brand type it may read what u want it to initially but after a while it may read way off even when you have it set to the proper settings. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:43 AM   #5
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Honestly... if you can get used to using one... an "old school" beam type is the best bet!
I worked for a tool importer for 10 years. We sold 'em all. Serviced 'em all (had a certified torque wrench test bed, etc).

I've personally had 'click type' ones that were out of whack after only a few years and were too far gone to to reset.
I've also got a 1/4 drive in/lb beam scale from the 1940's that is STILL DEAD ON!
Same goes for all my 3/8 & 1/2 drive beam scale ones.
As long as they start at "0", and the arm doesn't drag, they just stay right.

Other problem with click types if they slip out of calibration (assuming you don't have a tester!) is that they'll still go click. You'll think it's tight. But you have no idea if you just really tightened it to 120, 140 or 160 lbs!
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:03 PM   #6
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You know I've got a Craftsman and a HF one. I'll torque something tomorrow and post. See how accurate the HF is.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:49 PM   #7
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I have a Summit Racing brand one.

I got the calibration checked..and was less than 1% off.
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:36 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonK View Post
You know I've got a Craftsman and a HF one. I'll torque something tomorrow and post. See how accurate the HF is.
What were your findings?
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:40 PM   #9
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Being a professional technician i would say do not skimp on a torque wrench especialy if you are using it for your wheels. ive seen wheels come off from improper tightening not fun. I would look for any snap on torque wrench i have the electric and click types. had mine checked recently after three years of use and both were dead on... just my opinion
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:03 PM   #10
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I have the electronic Snap On torque wrench and I love it! Who would have thought it would excite you to own a torque wrench, but I went through and torqued everything! It also has a cool feature to do reverse torque, so when you remove something, it will tell you the torque it took to break the bolt free. I bought it specifically to remove/install the crank pulley bolt.
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:06 AM   #11
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Dude just order the brownline one that is posted on this forum. I got one of those and also a Husky torque wrench that I have used for 10+ years.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:53 AM   #12
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I have a craftsman click type that seems to work well. One thing I've been told that I adhere to is to set it to 0 when not in use. Leaving it sit with tension on it can do it no good.
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