DIY Change LEDs in Speed/Tach Gauge - Page 11 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

2SSRS · 08-17-2012, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anglwngss

I only have one picture of that switch, and I can't really tell which way the LEDs are facing.

I'm not even 100% positive this is the correct switch, but I think it's the right one.

It is the right switch.

JookeTheSnooke · 08-18-2012, 01:41 AM

hey guys i have a question. i was working on the changing the leds on the gauge cluster had them all put in but when i went to plug it in to see if they worked, i accidentally put the plug in the wrong way and i heard something popped and saw burns along with smoke appear on the board were it plugs in. does this mean the whole board is shot and i have to get a new one?

-jake

MikeMoach · 08-18-2012, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anglwngss

This is what I have so far:
4 Gauge Console
Stock: 8 PLCC-2 (ice blue)
Stock: 4 PLCC-2 (red)

Door Panel
Stock: 2 5mm (ice blue)

Window up/down switches
3 0805 Surface Mount (ice blue)

Headlight Switch
5 0805 Surface Mount (ice blue)

HUD Switch:
3 0805 Surface Mount (ice blue)

Steering Wheel:
Stock: 10 PLCC-2 (ice blue)

Speedo/Tach:
Stock: 22 PLCC-2 (ice blue)
Stock: 7 PLCC-2 (amber)
Stock: 17 PLCC-2 (red)
Stock: 4 PLCC-2 (green)
Stock: 1 PLCC-2 (white)
Stock: 1 PLCC-2 (dark blue)
Stock screen: 5 Right angle (ice blue)
1 unknown on left (below the ice blue MPH)
1 unknown color on right- (fog lights)

Needed this thanks for the info

MikeMoach · 08-18-2012, 09:55 AM

Creektrack:

I have everything apart right now, can you give me a list of the tools I would need to remove the old and put in the new LEDs on the gauge cluster please

patternpilot · 08-18-2012, 11:11 AM

I can't speak for creektrack, but I did this a few months ago. As he said a good silver bearing solder. You will also need some tweezers to hold the LEDs, a good magnifying hood and most important a good temperature controlled soldering iron. The LEDs are very small and easily melted with too much heat. The soldering iron should have a flat tip to evenly apply heat. So far I have done my guage cluster including the DIC, the radio and the four gauge cluster to white. It turned out really well although I have to take them back apart to redo a couple of the LEDs that went dark.
I did a lot of research finding the proper LEDs. I was not happy paying the cost for prepackaged sets, so I found the specs and bought them in bulk. I paid less than 20 dollars per 100. Price varied a little depending on color and size of the LED. I bought mostly white so price was low for those, and the red was just a little bit more. If you do your homework you can get what you want and save a lot. To me there is a lot more satisfaction doing all this myself. Well worth the effort.

MikeMoach · 08-18-2012, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patternpilot

I can't speak for creektrack, but I did this a few months ago. As he said a good silver bearing solder. You will also need some tweezers to hold the LEDs, a good magnifying hood and most important a good temperature controlled soldering iron. The LEDs are very small and easily melted with too much heat. The soldering iron should have a flat tip to evenly apply heat. So far I have done my guage cluster including the DIC, the radio and the four gauge cluster to white. It turned out really well although I have to take them back apart to redo a couple of the LEDs that went dark.
I did a lot of research finding the proper LEDs. I was not happy paying the cost for prepackaged sets, so I found the specs and bought them in bulk. I paid less than 20 dollars per 100. Price varied a little depending on color and size of the LED. I bought mostly white so price was low for those, and the red was just a little bit more. If you do your homework you can get what you want and save a lot. To me there is a lot more satisfaction doing all this myself. Well worth the effort.

Thanks man appreciate the advice, so what LEDs you didn't like? I'm Gunna use the PLCC2 that everyone recommended

creektrack · 08-18-2012, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2SSRS

It is the right switch.

If tbats the right switch, the corners are in the top right...

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

creektrack · 08-18-2012, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JookeTheSnooke

hey guys i have a question. i was working on the changing the leds on the gauge cluster had them all put in but when i went to plug it in to see if they worked, i accidentally put the plug in the wrong way and i heard something popped and saw burns along with smoke appear on the board were it plugs in. does this mean the whole board is shot and i have to get a new one?

-jake

Unfortunately it sounds lime you fried something..

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

creektrack · 08-18-2012, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeMoach

Creektrack:

I have everything apart right now, can you give me a list of the tools I would need to remove the old and put in the new LEDs on the gauge cluster please

Mostly you need silver bearing solder, maybe some desolder braid, some tweezers with or without magnifiers, and a 15 watt soldering iron with the smallest tip you can find...

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

MikeMoach · 08-18-2012, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creektrack

Mostly you need silver bearing solder, maybe some desolder braid, some tweezers with or without magnifiers, and a 15 watt soldering iron with the smallest tip you can find...

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Thank you, just I don't know what desolder braid is or does could you or someone explain?

creektrack · 08-18-2012, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeMoach

Thank you, just I don't know what desolder braid is or does could you or someone explain?

Desolder braid or bulbs allow you to remove excess solder...if you ask someone at the store they can show you...

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Sleez · 08-18-2012, 01:42 PM

solder wick;

http://www.google.com/search?source=...w=1658&bih=952

solder sucker works too, i have one, wick works better in some instances.

http://www.google.com/search?source=...w=1658&bih=952

MikeMoach · 08-18-2012, 01:50 PM

Thanks guys Gunna try and not mess this up too bad

Sleez · 08-18-2012, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeMoach

Thanks guys Gunna try and not mess this up too bad

find an old circuit board out of something (old microwave, vcr, mustang) and practice desoldering and soldering.

it helps to get a feel for how long to leave the heat applied and how the solder moves around to follow the heat.

Mister-Camaro · 08-18-2012, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ReD MaRo Ls

Just changed the rings to red. Gonna try and attack some switches tomorrow.

Thats AMAZING!! It is going to be on next on my mod list

MikeMoach · 08-18-2012, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleez

find an old circuit board out of something (old microwave, vcr, mustang) and practice desoldering and soldering.

it helps to get a feel for how long to leave the heat applied and how the solder moves around to follow the heat.

I can solder pipes together lol never touched a circuit board before if that makes anything easier for me

Sleez · 08-18-2012, 02:47 PM

same concept, but circuit boards are way less forgiving if you add too much heat.

you can delaminate multi layer boards, lift runs and cause all sorts of issues.

i have been soldering circuit boards for 26 years, still can be tricky at times.

good luck, have fun, be safe.

MikeMoach · 08-18-2012, 02:53 PM

I got a question, what if I use a flame to heat up tweasers then use them to pull off the LEDs on the board already? Will that work?

Sleez · 08-18-2012, 03:14 PM

it may, but the tweezers don't have capacity to hold heat (no mass) and will cool quickly when trying to remove LEDs.

try it on a scrap circuit board???

MikeMoach · 08-18-2012, 03:17 PM

I don't have anything to test on :(

creektrack · 08-19-2012, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeMoach

I don't have anything to test on :(

Go to a junk yard and grab a radio or gauge cluster from a car...i know you dont wanna spend more than you have to, but $10 now is better than $400 later...

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

MikeMoach · 08-19-2012, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creektrack

Go to a junk yard and grab a radio or gauge cluster from a car...i know you dont wanna spend more than you have to, but $10 now is better than $400 later...

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Your 100% right gunna get the tools today and see what I can find to work on tomorrow

Thanks for the advice everyone, now only if I could decide on a color scheme

MikeMoach · 09-16-2012, 07:11 PM

Finally gunna start this mod, I'm gunna start with my gauge cluster, do I need to take the needles off to get to the board to change the LEDs?

Caddyroger · 09-16-2012, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeMoach

Finally gunna start this mod, I'm gunna start with my gauge cluster, do I need to take the needles off to get to the board to change the LEDs?

Yes you will have to. I used two teaspoons with blue masking tape on the bottom of the spoons. Just be care full the needle may pop off fast and land some where it should not.

MikeMoach · 09-17-2012, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caddyroger

Yes you will have to. I used two teaspoons with blue masking tape on the bottom of the spoons. Just be care full the needle may pop off fast and land some where it should not.

So I can just pry it off? I seen in a different thread guys were having trouble with that, just wanna make sure before I snap something

08-18-2012, 11:11 AM	#255
patternpilot Drives: 2012 2SS/RS 05 Jag S type R Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Tri-Cities WA. Posts: 194 View My Garage	I can't speak for creektrack, but I did this a few months ago. As he said a good silver bearing solder. You will also need some tweezers to hold the LEDs, a good magnifying hood and most important a good temperature controlled soldering iron. The LEDs are very small and easily melted with too much heat. The soldering iron should have a flat tip to evenly apply heat. So far I have done my guage cluster including the DIC, the radio and the four gauge cluster to white. It turned out really well although I have to take them back apart to redo a couple of the LEDs that went dark. I did a lot of research finding the proper LEDs. I was not happy paying the cost for prepackaged sets, so I found the specs and bought them in bulk. I paid less than 20 dollars per 100. Price varied a little depending on color and size of the LED. I bought mostly white so price was low for those, and the red was just a little bit more. If you do your homework you can get what you want and save a lot. To me there is a lot more satisfaction doing all this myself. Well worth the effort. __________________ There's more to life than gas mileage Whipple, Custom Comp Cam, springs, pushrods, timing set, Cold Air Induction, cold air scoop, Doug Thorley tri-why headers, Billet Custom Products baffled Valve covers, RX Catch can, ADM FPCM, ZL1 fuel pump, MSD boost-a-pump, Hex Vent hood vents, ProSport gauges(fuel pressure, AFR, Boost), Cora cat back, Hannity remote tuned, all parts user installed. No Dyno yet.

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08-18-2012, 01:41 AM	#252
JookeTheSnooke Drives: 2010 SS Camaro Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: N.Y Posts: 13	hey guys i have a question. i was working on the changing the leds on the gauge cluster had them all put in but when i went to plug it in to see if they worked, i accidentally put the plug in the wrong way and i heard something popped and saw burns along with smoke appear on the board were it plugs in. does this mean the whole board is shot and i have to get a new one? -jake

08-18-2012, 09:55 AM	#254
MikeMoach Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2012 Location: Staten Island, NY Posts: 694	Creektrack: I have everything apart right now, can you give me a list of the tools I would need to remove the old and put in the new LEDs on the gauge cluster please

08-18-2012, 01:42 PM	#262
Sleez Drives: 2010, 2LT, RS, 6M, ABM (#1893) SOLD Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Willits, CA Posts: 1,314 View My Garage	solder wick; http://www.google.com/search?source=...w=1658&bih=952 solder sucker works too, i have one, wick works better in some instances. http://www.google.com/search?source=...w=1658&bih=952

08-18-2012, 01:50 PM	#263
MikeMoach Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2012 Location: Staten Island, NY Posts: 694	Thanks guys Gunna try and not mess this up too bad

08-18-2012, 02:47 PM	#267
Sleez Drives: 2010, 2LT, RS, 6M, ABM (#1893) SOLD Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Willits, CA Posts: 1,314 View My Garage	same concept, but circuit boards are way less forgiving if you add too much heat. you can delaminate multi layer boards, lift runs and cause all sorts of issues. i have been soldering circuit boards for 26 years, still can be tricky at times. good luck, have fun, be safe.

08-18-2012, 02:53 PM	#268
MikeMoach Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2012 Location: Staten Island, NY Posts: 694	I got a question, what if I use a flame to heat up tweasers then use them to pull off the LEDs on the board already? Will that work?

08-18-2012, 03:14 PM	#269
Sleez Drives: 2010, 2LT, RS, 6M, ABM (#1893) SOLD Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Willits, CA Posts: 1,314 View My Garage	it may, but the tweezers don't have capacity to hold heat (no mass) and will cool quickly when trying to remove LEDs. try it on a scrap circuit board???

08-18-2012, 03:17 PM	#270
MikeMoach Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2012 Location: Staten Island, NY Posts: 694	I don't have anything to test on :(

09-16-2012, 07:11 PM	#273
MikeMoach Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2012 Location: Staten Island, NY Posts: 694	Finally gunna start this mod, I'm gunna start with my gauge cluster, do I need to take the needles off to get to the board to change the LEDs?