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Old 03-16-2012, 04:48 PM   #26
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I agree with you, it sucks spending thousands of dollars on mods and never really being able to take advantage of it and wondering why it was you spent all that money.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:19 AM   #27
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? on Drag Radial Sizing ... MT to Nitto and 20 > 17 move

Guys -

Tons of good info in this thread - and have a stance question...

Would this be an "acceptable" Drag Radial Configuration until I do a skinny or more with the front :
- FRONT 275/40-20 (which is generally my daily driver config)

- REAR Weld-RTS & MT 295/45/17

I currently was (for like weeks...) running that 20 front and a 20 back NITTO 05 R DR but want to move to a 17 and likely should have from the start

Thoughts? - I know there are likely many missing variables but general thoughts if this is heading in the right direction?
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:27 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
Hoosier 28x10-17 (True Drag Slick - Non-DOT) 28" tall

M/T ET Street 26x11.5-17 (DOT Drag Radial) 26.5" tall

M/T ET Street Radial II 295/45R17 (DOT Drag Radial) 27.2" tall

M&H RaceMaster 325/45R17 (DOT Drag Radial) 28" tall

Nitto really doesn't have anything in a 17", unless you want to go down below 26".
I run the M & H racemaster and this weekend went low 1.5's with 700 rwhp. They are actually 28.7 inches tall and work amazing..... and I have a 3:70 gear.
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:28 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by CamaroSS45 View Post
Guys -

Tons of good info in this thread - and have a stance question...

Would this be an "acceptable" Drag Radial Configuration until I do a skinny or more with the front :
- FRONT 275/40-20 (which is generally my daily driver config)

- REAR Weld-RTS & MT 295/45/17

I currently was (for like weeks...) running that 20 front and a 20 back NITTO 05 R DR but want to move to a 17 and likely should have from the start

Thoughts? - I know there are likely many missing variables but general thoughts if this is heading in the right direction?
I personally would just wait a few weeks and get skinnies at the same time.
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:54 AM   #30
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bmr said it right...700 rwhp area, and slicks , especially if you have a m6...radials are good and are a harder tire, which means more speed...takes more effort to move a car on soft tires then on hard tires, but slicks will help launch and spin issues when you get in the 700rwhp range and above..i could not launch my 660 rwhp without significant wheel spin on 17in drs... now if you have a a6, it is more forgiving...so you can push th 800 rwhp with drs...imo
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:11 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottywheels View Post
I personally would just wait a few weeks and get skinnies at the same time.
I have the Weld Rears already. Purchased just as a pair. So I need to do the front and like I mentioned - about 80 miles from me to track / can't tow - so want to rim match on front with Weld's (for racing) although may just be a waste of money - but if I did that - what is the best front tire setup on a 17?

Any rub issues on the M&H 325 on a Weld17 with no rear-end modifications? And I am not lowered.

Thx
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:59 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroSS45 View Post
I have the Weld Rears already. Purchased just as a pair. So I need to do the front and like I mentioned - about 80 miles from me to track / can't tow - so want to rim match on front with Weld's (for racing) although may just be a waste of money - but if I did that - what is the best front tire setup on a 17?

Any rub issues on the M&H 325 on a Weld17 with no rear-end modifications? And I am not lowered.

Thx

M & H has the 28" tall front skinny that everyone runs. Not sure about the rubbing with a 325 on a Weld but there are no issues with that tire on a Bogart.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:16 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Supercharged SS View Post
M & H has the 28" tall front skinny that everyone runs. Not sure about the rubbing with a 325 on a Weld but there are no issues with that tire on a Bogart.
I ran it on my welds and did not rub, however it looks better with my bogart.
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