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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 07-22-2012, 05:28 PM   #26
kjkjr27
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How hard is the intall for DIY? or will it have to be taken to a shop.
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:12 PM   #27
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kjkjr27- Install is pretty simple. You can do it with a few basic hand tools, some hex bits, a torx bit, and a torque wrench. Took me about 2 hours using my wife as a helper but I was not in any hurry when I was putting it in. Definitely helps if you have a lift available but could be done on jack stands if push came to shove.
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:13 PM   #28
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how does the response from the gas pedal feel with the single shaft ?
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:37 PM   #29
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Much better, it definitely exposes the slop in the factory 2 piece. TQ curve definitely moved left in the SOTP dyno
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:50 PM   #30
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Much better, it definitely exposes the slop in the factory 2 piece. TQ curve definitely moved left in the SOTP dyno
I gotta throw this out there. I have the Carbon Fiber V6 driveshaft and had it installed about two months ago. Through research and personal experience with the one piece DS's there are virbration harmonics to deal with. A one piece definitely transmits more vibration through it. So if you are expecting to get more theoretical TQ/HP back to the rear wheels with no additional noise/vibration you are incorrect. I will say it is not a lot of noise, but it is noticable. Search drive shaft harmonics on google. There is a lot of great info out there and some of the info is not stipulated on vendor websites like "you may experience more noise/vibration with a one piece driveshaft".

Secondly the carbon fiber shaft is not lighter than the stock. The shaft itself maybe but with all the other stuff attached, the carbon fiber actually weighs 2.45 Lbs heavier. I meaured it with a digital scale and that is what the scale measured. So as far a rotational mass you are actually adding some. Stock V6 DS 20.50 Lbs... CF driveshaft 22.95 LBS.

Just trying to get accurate info out to the general public. I have spent "x" amount of dollars to find the source of the vibrations and don't want to see anyone else chase those same issues or believe lower rotational mass exists. Maybe the aluminium DS is what it claims but the CF is not.

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Old 07-25-2012, 04:20 PM   #31
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elsololobo- That's weird that you are getting more vibes with the 1 piece, yes they do take more to balance because of the harmonics which is why GM uses a 2 piece from the factory to save money and time on balancing. However in my 1994, 1999, and now my 2011 Camaro all actually benefited from changing to the 1 piece. I am not sure who did your install but are you sure they lined the shaft up with the trans adapter correctly? Also might want to have the torques checked on the hardware. A properly balanced 1 piece driveshaft should be smooth.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:27 PM   #32
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"elsololobo- That's weird that you are getting more vibes with the 1 piece, yes they do take more to balance because of the harmonics which is why GM uses a 2 piece from the factory to save money and time on balancing. However in my 1994, 1999, and now my 2011 Camaro all actually benefited from changing to the 1 piece. I am not sure who did your install but are you sure they lined the shaft up with the trans adapter correctly? Also might want to have the torques checked on the hardware. A properly balanced 1 piece driveshaft should be smooth".


Yes I am assuming that the install shop did in fact install it correctly. There are no instrcutions included with what the torque settings are supposed to be and or showing proper alignemt with the trans adapter. Assuming stock settings will work???
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:10 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011Camaro View Post
elsololobo- That's weird that you are getting more vibes with the 1 piece, yes they do take more to balance because of the harmonics which is why GM uses a 2 piece from the factory to save money and time on balancing. However in my 1994, 1999, and now my 2011 Camaro all actually benefited from changing to the 1 piece. I am not sure who did your install but are you sure they lined the shaft up with the trans adapter correctly? Also might want to have the torques checked on the hardware. A properly balanced 1 piece driveshaft should be smooth.

yes it should, i have sent a PM

p.s. torque specs are on a sticker right on the Driveshaft
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:33 PM   #34
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elsolobo- there should have been a line marked on the driveshaft and on the adapter where they line up. also as DSS said there is a sticker on the shaft stating torque to 57 ft/lb.
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:45 AM   #35
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Any updates on this? How is the driveshaft doing and how does it feel?
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:08 AM   #36
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Still holding strong and smooth, absolutely not one complaint from my corner!
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:19 PM   #37
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Well not so good from my end. I had the LPE 3.70 gears, Pfadt Diff bushings, LPW diff cover and milled billet end caps installed this past Tuesday.

The shop I had install the aformentioned parts made sure all the bolts to my Carbon Fiber DS were torqed to spec according to the sticker on the DS.

DSS had also suggested to rotate the flange 180 degrees to cancel out the harmonics. The install shop did that too and I still have some very loud vibrations/harmonics. I'll be taking some pics to send to DSS to see if they can see what is wrong. It really sounds like it it rubbing against the gas tank somehwere.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:24 PM   #38
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Could you please update with what they tell you?
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:06 PM   #39
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Will do.
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:56 AM   #40
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I know we have PM'd a few times on this and i will help you out as i always do.Ill even send a new shaft out for an exchange. I'm still unsure about this as your last PM stated




As the RPM increases so does the MPH. The only time I don't get any vibration is when I engage the clutch at any MPH/RPM. Once the clutch is engaged the vibrations are gone.

I should correct myself from my last statement... the vibrations are at their worst from 4000-5200 RPM no matter what the speed.


The driveshaft is connected to the diff so its metered by MPH, RPM will not affect the shaft as its RPM doesn't change with the motor only the speed of the car.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:14 PM   #41
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Ok, so I put my car up on ramps and took a look underneath. So from a visual inspection is that the blue flange is rubbing against the gas tank heat shield. I am getting some work done next week and will have my speed shop remove the heat shield to confirm this is where the vibrations are comming from. There are rub marks along the radius of the blue flange and they match up with the marks along the radius of the heat shield, micro shavings are also present that match up with the rub marks.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:17 PM   #42
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If it rubbed, it would rub on the diagonal points, not the flat spot on the flange since that isnt the outward most point. Use some common sense here. 99.9% that's just axle grease (they ARE greased) and road gravel sticking to the heat shield. I just had mine out today, and it looked exactly like your picture. No rubs at all
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:34 PM   #43
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Agreed some of it is grease and road debris. What is undeniable is the rub marks on the blue portion of the flange that match up exactly with the rub marks on the heat sheild. I will upload more pics tomorrow and show that yes indeed that the blue flange has rub marks that expose new metal (silver in color) being carved out below the anodized/blue metal covering.

Common sense would tell you that I had the stock DS and no issues. I had the DSS CF DS installed and had virbrations being transmitted through the cabin. DSS called my installer and also confirmed that all the install was installed to spec (torque settings). Also had a seperate shop install gears, Pfadt diff bushings, JRE end caps and LPW diff cover and had them, with a recommendation from DSS, rotate the flange 180 degrees, and guess what...same vibrations are occuring. I'm not making this up nor attempting to bash any vendors.

I am merely putting this info out there as a few other members with both Al and CF DS's are having some similar issues. And yes the DSS is helping out in a capacity that they can.

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Old 09-16-2012, 08:39 PM   #44
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Update... I got her up on some ramps this weekend and began the process of taking off the gas tank shielding. PITA, but I got it done. From the attached pics you will see where the flange connected to the diff was indeed rubbing and scoring the shielding and the shielding scoring the flange, both the blue and silver portions. All shielding was washed with a degreaser so grease and grime are not to be confused with the scoring marks.

If you were to split the sheilding in halves the passenger side had way more abrupt marks that the drivers side. Endstate is the vibrations are gone during city driving and I will be getting the car up to highway speeds tomorrow to find out if I have the same result at higher speeds.

Also the e-brake cables come close to the shaft since the shielding was removed, only near the diff area. I suggest to make small brackets to keep them snug in the tunnel brace to make sure you have good clearence from the DS. I used some zip ties and small brackets from a hardware store and secured them in the tunnel. Had about 1-1.25" of clearence once done. If you don't secure them they will rub against the shaft and make noise.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:07 PM   #45
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Update to the update...

So I got it up to highway speeds and no vibration issues. I would suggest that in the install instructions state that shielding may need to be removed if there is evidence of rubbing or excessive vibrations. Or maybe a blurb in a troubleshooting section with regards to torque settings, rotation of the flange 180 degrees and the the possbility of the flange rubbing against the shielding. That way people don't have to spend almost as much as the DS costs to get in installed/re-installed/re-installed plus their time to figure out what is going on at least with the V6 guys. I would figure that if you bought an aftermarket product it would have been tested through and through. Any other CF V6's having similiar issues???

Be advised that if the shielding is the problem and it is removed you will definately need to secure the E-brake cabling. Otherwise you will have the cabling rubbing against the DS and that noise is absolutely loud and different sounding than the rubbing of the flange, at all speeds. But if the shielding is removed and the cabling is secured tightly against the gas tank you will be good to go.

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Old 09-19-2012, 09:00 PM   #46
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A lot worse then it looked in your first pic, definitely some rubbing action there! Glad you got it solved. I came to the same conclusion as you when I removed my heat shield that the brake cables are a potential hazard, and also secured mine in the tunnel away from the shaft.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:57 PM   #47
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A lot worse then it looked in your first pic, definitely some rubbing action there! Glad you got it solved. I came to the same conclusion as you when I removed my heat shield that the brake cables are a potential hazard, and also secured mine in the tunnel away from the shaft.
Kind of curious... You posted on September 11th that you had no issues "no rubs at all" but from you quote above you must of had issues with your V8 Al DS to remove your shielding and secure the E-brake cables. Did you have issues with your DS???
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:01 AM   #48
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Quote:
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Kind of curious... You posted on September 11th that you had no issues "no rubs at all" but from you quote above you must of had issues with your V8 Al DS to remove your shielding and secure the E-brake cables. Did you have issues with your DS???
Nope, just wanted the 3 pounds. I don't have the same style of DS as you, so it's not even remotely close to the shield. It almost looks as if the pinion sits higher on the V6 differential vs the V8 diff.

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