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Old 09-12-2012, 08:30 AM   #26
ADM PERFORMANCE

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlee View Post
Yeah.. mine cost $17 bucks off Amazon and is exactly the same as M2W

ADM wires this to a 3 way switch so you can have it stock factory, always open or always closed. But he doesn't sell it as a package because it's mostly all wireing work.
We can't get our hands on proper male female connectors
To make it plug and play.

There is also something to be said about keeping
things in house our way.

I'm sure we will be copied
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlee View Post
Yeah.. mine cost $17 bucks off Amazon and is exactly the same as M2W

ADM wires this to a 3 way switch so you can have it stock factory, always open or always closed. But he doesn't sell it as a package because it's mostly all wireing work.
this would be pretty easy to do electrically. I might do it that way eventually. The down side to the remote control relay if you wire to a constant power source there is some current drain and more of it in the on position. If you wire it to a switched power source then it will always be "wild" or flaps open at start up.

if I ever have to have my console out I am just putting a switch it. I did not want a switch in my trunk as the truck monkey would most likely play with it. For some reason I was feeling lazy and did not want to pull stuff up.

I have not traced out the whole circuit but if 12v closes the flaps you just want to tap in at that point with 12v and then maybe throw a diode in so you don't feed voltage back upsteam.
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hognutz View Post
this would be pretty easy to do electrically. I might do it that way eventually. The down side to the remote control relay if you wire to a constant power source there is some current drain and more of it in the on position. If you wire it to a switched power source then it will always be "wild" or flaps open at start up.

if I ever have to have my console out I am just putting a switch it. I did not want a switch in my trunk as the truck monkey would most likely play with it. For some reason I was feeling lazy and did not want to pull stuff up.

I have not traced out the whole circuit but if 12v closes the flaps you just want to tap in at that point with 12v and then maybe throw a diode in so you don't feed voltage back upsteam.
Dpdt relay....
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:36 AM   #29
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Just performed this mod. Ran the wires all the way up to front trim with a lighted LED switch. Works great. The valve normally closes at about 1500-3000RPM normally. It makes a pretty significant difference when the switch is off and the valve is left open in this range. I prefer it to be as loud as possible. But it'll be nice if I'm on the freeway and want it a little more quiet. Thanks for posting the DIY.
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:26 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE View Post
Dpdt relay....
SPDT...
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:32 PM   #31
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This is for exhaust, what fuse do we pull to get the high octane back?
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:34 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evonschu View Post
Just performed this mod. Ran the wires all the way up to front trim with a lighted LED switch. Works great. The valve normally closes at about 1500-3000RPM normally. It makes a pretty significant difference when the switch is off and the valve is left open in this range. I prefer it to be as loud as possible. But it'll be nice if I'm on the freeway and want it a little more quiet. Thanks for posting the DIY.
You could get the switch we use for cup lights, I did not have dealer do the cup holder lights, I did it myself.

Back in the late 60s we all drag racers wanted quiet cars so we could hear the ping of the headers. I would rather hear the whine of the suppercharger.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:38 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hognutz View Post
this would be pretty easy to do electrically. I might do it that way eventually. The down side to the remote control relay if you wire to a constant power source there is some current drain and more of it in the on position. If you wire it to a switched power source then it will always be "wild" or flaps open at start up.

if I ever have to have my console out I am just putting a switch it. I did not want a switch in my trunk as the truck monkey would most likely play with it. For some reason I was feeling lazy and did not want to pull stuff up.

I have not traced out the whole circuit but if 12v closes the flaps you just want to tap in at that point with 12v and then maybe throw a diode in so you don't feed voltage back upsteam.
I have the directions for installing cup lights, it says how to remove console.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:38 PM   #34
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someone PLEASE do a DIY video of this.... run to the drivers vicinity and I'll love you forever :P
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