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Old 06-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #18
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Very cool way to get the issue resolved! How do you like the results? I can't claim it for sure, but the DIC indicates what I believe are cooler Coolant temps... because the heat is not retained as much between 1,000 and 3,000 rpms. Kind of a side benefit!

I really like the continued "rumble" between 1k and 3k. It seems to "complete" the enjoyment at cruising speeds! And nuisance drone is non-existent.
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:43 PM   #19
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i'm contemplating something of the sort on Eve as well. i've already got a cutout switch in the console, but there's a little trick to keep the high fans on after making some pulls or doing some laps. just jumping a wire in the relays to close the circuit. i've been thinking of making that jumper long enough to have a switch in the middle and mount it somewhere for instant engine bay cooling.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:36 PM   #20
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FYI, there are remote switches (transmitter/keyfob and receiver) available for about $10... Can be added to the DYI set-up. And probably programmed into the URS.?.? Probably have to be sure to buy one that is compatible.
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Old 07-21-2012, 12:31 PM   #21
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FYI, there are remote switches (transmitter/keyfob and receiver) available for about $10... Can be added to the DYI set-up. And probably programmed into the URS.?.? Probably have to be sure to buy one that is compatible.
Remotes are for your TV.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:41 PM   #22
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I want to hear the difference at Camaro5Fest
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:56 PM   #23
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I know it's probably as likely as the Personal Jetpack, but I'd be completely content if the exhaust flap could be wired up to remain open when the car is put into any of the PTM Modes
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:15 PM   #24
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I know it's probably as likely as the Personal Jetpack, but I'd be completely content if the exhaust flap could be wired up to remain open when the car is put into any of the PTM Modes
Hey...if someone could get a reading off the ECM...it would be cake from there, with the proper equipment...but getting that reading...
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:57 AM   #25
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FYI, there are remote switches (transmitter/keyfob and receiver) available for about $10... Can be added to the DYI set-up. And probably programmed into the URS.?.? Probably have to be sure to buy one that is compatible.
Yeah.. mine cost $17 bucks off Amazon and is exactly the same as M2W

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I know it's probably as likely as the Personal Jetpack, but I'd be completely content if the exhaust flap could be wired up to remain open when the car is put into any of the PTM Modes
ADM wires this to a 3 way switch so you can have it stock factory, always open or always closed. But he doesn't sell it as a package because it's mostly all wireing work.
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:30 AM   #26
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Yeah.. mine cost $17 bucks off Amazon and is exactly the same as M2W

ADM wires this to a 3 way switch so you can have it stock factory, always open or always closed. But he doesn't sell it as a package because it's mostly all wireing work.
We can't get our hands on proper male female connectors
To make it plug and play.

There is also something to be said about keeping
things in house our way.

I'm sure we will be copied
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:17 PM   #27
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Yeah.. mine cost $17 bucks off Amazon and is exactly the same as M2W

ADM wires this to a 3 way switch so you can have it stock factory, always open or always closed. But he doesn't sell it as a package because it's mostly all wireing work.
this would be pretty easy to do electrically. I might do it that way eventually. The down side to the remote control relay if you wire to a constant power source there is some current drain and more of it in the on position. If you wire it to a switched power source then it will always be "wild" or flaps open at start up.

if I ever have to have my console out I am just putting a switch it. I did not want a switch in my trunk as the truck monkey would most likely play with it. For some reason I was feeling lazy and did not want to pull stuff up.

I have not traced out the whole circuit but if 12v closes the flaps you just want to tap in at that point with 12v and then maybe throw a diode in so you don't feed voltage back upsteam.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:09 PM   #28
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this would be pretty easy to do electrically. I might do it that way eventually. The down side to the remote control relay if you wire to a constant power source there is some current drain and more of it in the on position. If you wire it to a switched power source then it will always be "wild" or flaps open at start up.

if I ever have to have my console out I am just putting a switch it. I did not want a switch in my trunk as the truck monkey would most likely play with it. For some reason I was feeling lazy and did not want to pull stuff up.

I have not traced out the whole circuit but if 12v closes the flaps you just want to tap in at that point with 12v and then maybe throw a diode in so you don't feed voltage back upsteam.
Dpdt relay....
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:36 AM   #29
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Just performed this mod. Ran the wires all the way up to front trim with a lighted LED switch. Works great. The valve normally closes at about 1500-3000RPM normally. It makes a pretty significant difference when the switch is off and the valve is left open in this range. I prefer it to be as loud as possible. But it'll be nice if I'm on the freeway and want it a little more quiet. Thanks for posting the DIY.
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Old 10-25-2012, 02:26 AM   #30
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Dpdt relay....
SPDT...
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:32 PM   #31
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This is for exhaust, what fuse do we pull to get the high octane back?
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:34 PM   #32
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Just performed this mod. Ran the wires all the way up to front trim with a lighted LED switch. Works great. The valve normally closes at about 1500-3000RPM normally. It makes a pretty significant difference when the switch is off and the valve is left open in this range. I prefer it to be as loud as possible. But it'll be nice if I'm on the freeway and want it a little more quiet. Thanks for posting the DIY.
You could get the switch we use for cup lights, I did not have dealer do the cup holder lights, I did it myself.

Back in the late 60s we all drag racers wanted quiet cars so we could hear the ping of the headers. I would rather hear the whine of the suppercharger.
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:38 PM   #33
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this would be pretty easy to do electrically. I might do it that way eventually. The down side to the remote control relay if you wire to a constant power source there is some current drain and more of it in the on position. If you wire it to a switched power source then it will always be "wild" or flaps open at start up.

if I ever have to have my console out I am just putting a switch it. I did not want a switch in my trunk as the truck monkey would most likely play with it. For some reason I was feeling lazy and did not want to pull stuff up.

I have not traced out the whole circuit but if 12v closes the flaps you just want to tap in at that point with 12v and then maybe throw a diode in so you don't feed voltage back upsteam.
I have the directions for installing cup lights, it says how to remove console.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:38 PM   #34
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someone PLEASE do a DIY video of this.... run to the drivers vicinity and I'll love you forever :P
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