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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 12-24-2012, 02:44 PM   #26
nbrigdan
 
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Originally Posted by litle88 View Post
The hardest part is the fact that you live in Canada.

To save money you can either sell your shortblock minus the accessories, oil pan and covers. Sell your head as well. Some sponsors buy shortblocks that are still good.

You can then order a stroker motor from Livernois or AES they are in Illinois.
Or from TSP (Texas Speed ). Check their websites and give them a call.
Good to know, thanks.
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Old 09-17-2014, 04:36 AM   #27
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restart... I am in a similar boat. $7.5k-8k range. Looking for 500 rwhp 530 if I can get it in my budget.
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Old 09-17-2014, 07:30 AM   #28
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restart... I am in a similar boat. $7.5k-8k range. Looking for 500 rwhp 530 if I can get it in my budget.
HAHA....resurrected!!!

You should be able to get somewhere in that range with that budget. You actually aren't far from a supercharger, but I get this is about NA power.

I know a guy in my area with the NF cam, ported heads, headers etc as well of course and he put down 520rwhp at Lethal.

Of course these are just numbers on a dyno, but if that is your goal it is very doable.
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Old 09-17-2014, 02:40 PM   #29
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Sweet! I want N/A because I want to do Auto X. I also am on a budget and realize that If i N/A build, then save and upgrade drive line, I can supercharge later.
Build list so far (missing the little stuff like gaskets, sending unit for pump, etc)
zl1 pump
cnc ported heads
night fury cam
under drive pulley
kooks 1 7/8 LT
LS7 Clutch
(what kind of rockers/lifters should i get?)
exhaust cutout

Already have:
CAI roto fab, Flow master american thunder up to cats.

Also wanted to run this by you guys and girls... I have perminate disable vet plates so no DEQ for me... I am thinking of eliminating my CATS and just putting in a exhaust cutout. I'm just wondering if i have my cutout closed is it going to be obvious if a cop is sitting next to me at a red light? I heard there is a smell that non-cat vehicles usually give off.
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Old 09-18-2014, 03:13 PM   #30
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Old 09-18-2014, 03:25 PM   #31
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:21 PM   #32
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I'll say that youll gain some sound without the cats, but it depends how loud your crapmaster already is. My NPP with the flaps closed is not loud at all and would not hesitate to remove the cats for more sound. But I like it the way it is. Catless smells and I had that smell for 7 years in my 98 SS. I didnt really care, but chix do lol
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:29 PM   #33
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restart... I am in a similar boat. $7.5k-8k range. Looking for 500 rwhp 530 if I can get it in my budget.
TVS 2300, Whipple 2.9 or ECS kit. Boom done with way more driveability and reliability than a heads/cam 500RWHP NA car.
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Old 09-18-2014, 10:03 PM   #34
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I'm thinking it will be out of my budget with a charger though... Dont the TVS and Whipple 2.9's cost about 6K+ and average about 2K in labor at 100/hr?
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Old 09-21-2014, 09:49 AM   #35
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Have to replace EVERYTHING here. Going with Vengeance Racing. "scratch built" (N/A for now) Forged 416 Stroker. Mast Heads, Callies Forged Internals,Coated Bearings, Custom Grind Cam, Coil Relocate Kit, Block Prep, Balancing, Assembly, Tuning blah blah blah. It is alot of dough when you factor in labor costs, additional parts etc. If you just add up parts alone in my case it is north of 13k OP There are always hidden costs you have to allow for. Surprised I still got one Kidney left lol.


OP best two cents an old guy can suggest here is really take some time to think about what you really want to do and how much money will you have. My worst mistake was gottahaveitnowitis. Had the option of replacing the bottom and didn't do it. The more power you make the more the weak links are/can be exposed and could cost you alot more money down the road. A Piston and Rod was my weak link. The Stock bottoms can take a lot tuned and fueled right. I was lucky for a year and a half. Like litle88 said get with a reputable builder and take time and talk and listen to them. Best wishes.
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:45 AM   #36
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I am at 500 rwhp...TSP's best cam .....there .675 springs, and 7.375 hardened pushrods, Stainless headers with cats, and CAI...... got me to 491 rwhp HP dyno tuned for about 5 grand. Add in a UDP from fluid master and a vmax and there you go....I bought all my everything, drove it to another state to find the best tuner/mechanic in my area, limited torque management, custom fuel curving to be rich, ditch throttle delay, etc etc . And I used Driven racing oil for break in and use LS30 for driving and am on the stock oil /timing chain may change them out some day but really not needed so bad off the bat. The thing is I am going to have my springs checked at 25k miles to ensure longevity, with the driven oil I know I have the best and that's not a worry, and my builder is a g.m. guru so thus the everything is perfect. I do have a 13 with the dual mode and electric power steering on a ls3 and I did not do the heads...our heads are supposed to flow well beyond 600 h.p. and doing them is costly with some gain but yes then you have to worry about upper valve train geometry and if the cam you chose is going to work.... the pushrods.... etc.

Stock lifters are good and rockers.. many upgrade the trunions....but with checking springs every25k or so I have no worries according to my builder the 1st year ls7 427 was the one that had to have the rockers fixed... Also the reason you do not see night fury cam specs on here.... yes they change some like LSA etc but the cam is just a good cam, not the best for a radical build and leaves some on the table ...... Thus why I am a old hotrodder who runs a .639/.623 lift 112 LSA .235/.239 duration cam from TSP the best I could find..... I do not eat the same bait every one else does.... Thus if you bought the nightfury cam and did CNC ported cylinder heads.... you better make sure they work together or you might be like the guy a few posts ago saying on man my heads do not fit with my night fury cam........ Sure more compression is nice...but shaving the deck on head changes all the geometry....... pistons that need flycut... custom length pushrods..... etc porting just the intake and exhaust is good yet changing the compression ratio through the heads is..... needed to be taken into account in the tune.... otherwise.... knock knock boom.... sure our computer is supposed to take care of everything....only if the person programming it can make sure the spark retard/advance and anti knock/detonation is set right and you have 93 octane constantly and then you what..... add octane booster every time so you can go what is not really that practical of a compression ratio.... heck we already have 10.7....I used to build engines to around there and the closer you got to 11 the more you had to worry..... I am talking carbureted ....................

SO yes naturally aspirated you can easily reach 500 rwhp if you pick the right parts and do a custom tune right... I am still waiting on vararam to make a new intake so I can get to around 600 flywheel......lol And years of research can help....it did me and I am happy as can be with my build and its going to the rear diff now with the cash.... already did some suspension upgrades etc...and do not forget the lpw rear diff cover and any poly bushings..... So I will most likely have about your budget into it with the Eaton true trac posi and 3.91 gears and the upgraded suspension and install etc...... I do not just go all out nuts for one thing and starve another area it comes back to bite you...... And some where down the road I plan upgrades and tweaks here and there..... Here is a dyno of my car with just CAI, longtubes with cats and the "cam" ....... this is a mustang dyno too its not a inflated numbers dynojet and yes it has put out numbers for other members cars which are totally correct for the cam they chose and their mods compared to mine...... yes gee if you find the right any dyno the numbers can be faked to represent a lot different total...say std vs sae, or the operator over inflating temp or any input that the dyno uses to make a corrected read out which dynojets are more known to inflate that a true load dyno......oh that's another ramble............ anyway good luck!!!!!! And read old posts, many are on here of people installing there own cams or other cam nightmares as this is the internet and people with a problem come here..... then you can learn form there mistakes...as in I thought years ago I would need 7.40 pushrods....not 7.375.. Maybe some beehive springs... not dual springs.... I also heard many think they can do it all without breaking in the cam because its a roller....sure it works, but for how long? And which oil is the best....? This is one big ugly can of worms here, and that's why I had a expert and my best judgement determine what I was going to do, and I have decades of good old chevy small block building to rely on in my experience all done by me. And opinions are like what? And yes I can still get over 20 MPG on the freeway....try that with a forced induction build going for both....lol



http://www.moderncamaro.com/forum/mo...nchevelle.html
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Old 09-22-2014, 10:36 PM   #37
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I'm thinking it will be out of my budget with a charger though... Dont the TVS and Whipple 2.9's cost about 6K+ and average about 2K in labor at 100/hr?
You can easily get it done with 8k which is what you said is your budget. A while back I got a quote of right around $8,500 for a Whipple 2.9 tuner kit, ZL1 fuel pump, ADM FPCM, ID-850 injectors, ZL1 MAP, LS9 spark plugs, all installed and tuned. The above combo is the absolute best and correct combo of parts if keeping it under 650RWHP. If I could get that kind of deal on a Whipple with those combination of parts then surely you can get a TVS 2300 tuner kit with the same combination of parts for under $8k. If you seriously have a budget of 8k get a tried and true supercharger package and never look back. Just make sure your tuner is a real good one and you will have a easy 500RWHP or more that drives BETTER than stock, doesn't kill mpg, is fun at ALL RPM's, has torque EVERYWHERE, doesn't need gears or a torque converter for good driveability and is very reliable. Also, Maintainence will be the same as stock unlike a cam package. You won't have to have springs checked every so often neither will they need to be heat cycled and it won't need some super special expensive oil that you have to order.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:49 PM   #38
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quickdrraw here is a good read on an N/A LS3 Stroker build that easily gets over 620hp up front and without a "radical" Cam that will get you decent Street manners as well. Supercharging is the easiest way to get your 500+ rw but noticed in previous post you want to stay N/A.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...-supersize-me/
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