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Old 10-13-2012, 03:15 AM   #1
badluck12
 
Drives: Black vert v6 2012
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subwoofer for non ba 2012 vert HELP!

I just bought a 10 inch kicker sub for my 2012 convertible camaro I already know how to get to the factory subwoofer but can I just take the factory sub out and put the new one in or do I have to buy a box for the subwoofer? Any help is appreciated
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:43 PM   #2
black12lt
 
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I don't have the vert, but I've seen people do it here before. I also think the factory sub in the vert is
8 inches
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:55 PM   #3
side0ut
 
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Any update on this thread? I recently bought a 2012 1SS Basic Stereo (Non-BA) convertible and was looking at upgrading the stock subwoofer. My understanding is that it should have an 8-inch subwoofer mounted behind the rear seat in the middle. My question is.. Is the mounting area the same for the 8-inch or 10-inch subwoofer? Meaning since I am upgrading anyway, can I get a 10-inch Kicker FreeAir Subwoofer to replace my factory 8-inch or do I need to get another 8-inch subwoofer?

Thanks,

Rich
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:56 PM   #4
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I could be wrong but I thought it has always been a 10 in subwoofer, Below is a link from Subthump for a mount once you take out the original sub

http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Su...ent-Mount.html
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:46 AM   #5
side0ut
 
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And this is where the confusion comes from. By reading many, many, many posts, I have gathered that if you got the upgraded BA system in the convertible, then you have a 10-inch sub. However, if you got the basic stereo, then you have a 8-inch sub. Was hoping that either way, I could upgrade to a 10-inch Kicker Free-Air Subwoofer and use the 10-inch adapter from Subthump. I guess I won't know for sure until someone confirms this or I remove the back seat and sub to verify for myself.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:48 AM   #6
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Hopefully, Badluck12 (or someone who has done the same) will see this thread and share their results/lessons learned. Then I can get a good idea of what parts/equipment I need to buy to complete the upgrade with the least amount of headache.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:19 AM   #7
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Well I don't know about the convertible but there was a member who bout a free air sub and didn't like the way it sounded at all.

I would highly recommend you buy a box from subthump but if you don't want to, you can try it for yourself.
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:14 PM   #8
side0ut
 
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So I just finished installing my speakers and amp in my car. To now answer my question: There is indeed an 8-inch subwoofer in the non-ba convertible. It has a very little amp attached to the backside of the plate. That is the only amp in the car with all the other speakers running off the factory deck. It would have been nice to know beforehand that it was there so I would have just tapped into the remote amp turn on power instead of taking the factory deck out to tap into the harness. Oh well.. Maybe this will help someone else if they decide to upgrade their non-ba stereo in a convertible. By the way, use the white wire. I used the alpine 5-channel amp with Kicker components speakers in front and Boston Acoustics in the rear. I put the Kicker 10-inch sub in the factory location. Everything sounds great with the exception of the subwoofer which already been mentioned. I just had to try it for myself. Overall, the bass is 10 times better than the factory but is not optimal since it appears to be sound only and can't really be felt. Will try moving it to a box in the trunk and see how much of a difference there is.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:01 PM   #9
Richy_Rich
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:20 AM   #10
ToddB

 
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Do a search. I built a sealed chamber for my sub and added a1000 watt amp. It really pounds now.
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:37 PM   #11
side0ut
 
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So I put one of my old MTX 10s installed in a sealed box that I used to have installed in my civic in the trunk. Night and Day difference. Now my stereo sounds great. Will have to see about either building a box that fits properly in the trunk or try and enclose the factory location so I looks stock. I would prefer to try and building something in the factory location but don't know how to go about doing it. Never did any fiberglass work and there is not enough room to put plywood or MDF through the holes to create an enclosure. Would have to do it in pieces somehow but then I don't know how it could be sealed.

Todd, I tried looking through your posts. Did you happen to do a DIY or Guide for what you did? If not, I think that would be awesome if you could post something to shed some light on how you did it. Almost ready to cut a square hole where the stock location is and then slide/mount a box in the area.... (Almost) Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:44 PM   #12
Cruuzin LV
 
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Here's a 10" inch trunk encloser
http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Su...Enclosure.html
Heres a 12"
http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Su...Enclosure.html
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:02 PM   #13
side0ut
 
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Thanks for the post Cruuzin. I would prefer to use the factory location to keep maxium trunk space and also to look stock (ultimate stealthy)... If I decide it is too hard, I can easily build a box that will fit under the space where the top goes down. For now, it is winter so top will not be going down anytime soon, so I will just ride with my old MTX in the truck until I decide what to do. Todd has the ultimate solution. Just not sure what the trick is on how he did it. Toyed with the idea of using wood flooring since they "lock" into place and I could use the pieces to assemble the box inside the stock location.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by side0ut View Post
Thanks for the post Cruuzin. I would prefer to use the factory location to keep maxium trunk space and also to look stock (ultimate stealthy)... If I decide it is too hard, I can easily build a box that will fit under the space where the top goes down. For now, it is winter so top will not be going down anytime soon, so I will just ride with my old MTX in the truck until I decide what to do. Todd has the ultimate solution. Just not sure what the trick is on how he did it. Toyed with the idea of using wood flooring since they "lock" into place and I could use the pieces to assemble the box inside the stock location.
Yeah its quite the location. I have a 1000watt rockford fosgate amp and a really nice 12" sub and I've been debating myself which way to go. I have the boston system which is great but the Bass is nothing near aftermarket. I was thinking of going with the stealth trunk one I posted since it would be very easy to remove if I ever sold the car down the road and still have the stock sub in place. Here is one other option. A little pricy but pretty stealth.
http://www.abt.com/product/59796/JL-Audio-94526.html
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:46 PM   #15
goldappa
 
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A local MobileOne installer says they fiberglass and seal the factory sub encloser on camaro verts. I think for about 400 bucks.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:26 PM   #16
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OK. what I did was cut a hole on the left side of where the sub is now. The hole is about 10 x 12 Then I used a 1/8" plate to seal it back up and some silicone. OK here is the tricky part starting with the sub woofer hole I cut 1/4" mdf ( no need to go thicker because you are screwing it to steel) and glue and screwed it to all the steal surrounding the sub. I used cardboard to make templates for all the pieces. The bottom has just a few holes to seal with silicone. The top right above the sub I screwed into the bracket holding the pump.Then i silicon-ed all the seams before putting the cover plate on and the sub in. It was allot of work like a big puzzle but it really sounds great. I may take a picture tomorrow but it will only be the outer cover and the sub. It is all sealed so i wont take it apart.I also made 2 12" sub enclosures to fit under the top when its down.I drive those with a rockford T 2500 bdcp, a 275 amp alternator, and 3 batterys. Hear is some more stuff to read.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224763

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144841
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:28 AM   #17
Kafuzke
 
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@ToddB
I plan to built a sealed chamber in the factory subwoofer location too. I don't understand what you mean with "cut a hole on the left side of where the sub is"? Did you cut any steel braces?
I think it is sufficient to put MDF with glue, silicone and a couple of screws here and there to the back, top, bottom, right and left side.
In front i will use the factory metal bracket and put a 10" sub in.

i have not measured, but estimated that i get round 20 liters, that is 0.7 cu ft.

Wich sub do you insert?
Did you put any wadding or foam material in the chamber?
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:46 PM   #18
ToddB

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kafuzke View Post
@ToddB
I plan to built a sealed chamber in the factory subwoofer location too. I don't understand what you mean with "cut a hole on the left side of where the sub is"? Did you cut any steel braces?
I think it is sufficient to put MDF with glue, silicone and a couple of screws here and there to the back, top, bottom, right and left side.
In front i will use the factory metal bracket and put a 10" sub in.

i have not measured, but estimated that i get round 20 liters, that is 0.7 cu ft.

Wich sub do you insert?
Did you put any wadding or foam material in the chamber?
I used a Kicker Comp R 10" subwoofer. It has a mounting depth of 5 and 3/16 Handles 600 watts 1200 peak. What I did is to the left of the sub mounting hole I cut a hole about 10 x 10 square . Just leave about 3/4" space all the way around to put screws in. Then cut a 1/8 thick plate 3/4" bigger on all sides 11.5 x 11.5 to cover the hole you cut in the tin. Once it is silicone and screwed all the way around it will be as strong as it was or more. The hole you cut will give you access to the room on the left side of the sub. Cut, silicone and screw pieces in there then cover it with the plate you made. In the factory subwoofer hole cut and silicone pieces in there to seal that area off. It took me about 30hrs to do but the results are fantastic. use cardboard to make templates for test fitting then cut whatever you use to seal it up. I use 1/4" particle board because your screwing it to steel so it is really strong when the silicone dries. I used a alpine M12 amp (1200 watts) to drive it.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:03 AM   #19
Kafuzke
 
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Ok, now i understand.
The hole 10x10 ist only the access to bring in the plates to the factory hole.

And did you put any wadding or foam material in the sealed Area?
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