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Old 01-24-2013, 08:57 PM   #26
Can't_C_Me
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Lmao

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Old 01-24-2013, 09:18 PM   #27
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Lmao

He has numbers on a hps thread. Last we spoke he is still like me building on his car. But also working sun up to sun down.


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Old 01-24-2013, 09:25 PM   #28
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Lmao

He has numbers on a hps thread. Last we spoke he is still like me building on his car. But also working sun up to sun down.


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Do you have a link?
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EFR Twin Turbo LFX-GPI Tune-ZL1 fuel pump-10:1 CR forged pistons-3.45 gear-Meth Injection-BMR Trailing Arms, Bushings & Sway Bars-CircleD 4000 Stall-GPI Fuel Enrichment System
647 RWHP & 726 RWTQ @18.5 psi on 93 Octane (locked converter)
1/8 mile -- 7.158 @ 102.10 (20psi); old build
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:42 PM   #29
hunterv6
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Here you go
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256992


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Old 02-26-2013, 09:48 AM   #30
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Hi all,

I know have not posted much in a while because I have only gotten on the forum a few times lately. My heart has just not been in it. It took me a few weeks after I got back before I got with the shop by me to see about the meth kit stage 3 and putting an oil restrictor on to get rid of the oil at tailpipe and occasional smoke I would see. He was busy for the next month, so decided to just continue babying it and I just parked my car. Around mid-January, I dropped it off. He wanted to get the oil/smoke cleared up before messing with meth kit and/or switching to an additional fuel system. He made me a custom oil restrictor so that we could change the size easily since COMP was not much help in telling us a size. We started off with a 62 (mm?, not sure) and he wanted me to drive it and let it flush out what was in the system. I drove it for about 3 weeks, trying to baby it the whole time. It improved, especially with oil visible at the tips, but still some and would see occasion smoke. Since it improved, decided to go just a tad smaller, down to 57, emptied the catch can, and drove it a few more weeks. About the same results. So, needed to start eliminating possibilities. So, dropped it off Saturday to get Vertical door kit (want the whole package, looks and performance) and a leak down test, I believe it is called. Well, got off the phone a while ago... and not good results. Passenger side was fine, as was piston 1 on drivers side. However, piston 2 was showing 15% and piston 3 was showing 22%. Won't know exact damage until tear into it, but he said one might be damage piston, and the other damage piston and value, I believe is what he said (was kinda of numb and don't remember everything clearly). Anyway, it will be quite some time before I will be posting any firm numbers. What is the expression, if you want to play, you have to pay. C'est la vie. But here are a few pics of my car with the Spyder lights.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:03 AM   #31
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Sorry to read the troubles your having


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Old 02-26-2013, 10:09 AM   #32
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By the way, I think I remember something about a timing chain or similar issue on 2010 models. Does that ring a bell with anyone? Thought I might go proactive on it since going to have to tear into it anyway.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:13 AM   #33
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Yes there was a issue the chain were slipping or stretching.


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Old 02-26-2013, 11:49 AM   #34
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noob question but how do pistons get damaged? I've seen this happen a few times on here.
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:24 PM   #35
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Yeah if the pistions are damaged you will smoke out the back a little sometimes. Doesn't really have to do with the oil return setup at that point. I didn't have a restrictor also and had to use good ol' Google to find the right size. I have a .62 also and going smaller may not be good as you can starve the turbo. Seems like HPS may have ran the car hard while tuning it. That's how I damaged mine.
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:28 PM   #36
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noob question but how do pistons get damaged? I've seen this happen a few times on here.
most likely from running to lean (too much air and not enough fuel), this can cause things go get too hot, burning holes in your pistons. It can also cause pre-detonation, (pinging, knocking, etc.). The pistons in most modern vehicles, are not designed to tolerate a lot of pre-detonation.. and usually what happens is you end up cracking the edge of your piston off... the debris from that can then cause issue, with the valves... I'm guessing a cracked ring landing (edge around the top of the piston) is what happened here...

@SwitchBlade... sorry to hear... drove home from the track on 5 cylinders once... so I know about that sick feeling... ugh...
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:45 PM   #37
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Thanks for the empathy all. Told the little woman at lunch time. She seemed to take it all pretty well, but havent gone home yet , and she has no idea on how much it will probably take to fix it. Considering going forged while I am at it, but time will tell (there goes my tax refund). Will try to keep posted on progress.
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:54 PM   #38
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Thanks for the empathy all. Told the little woman at lunch time. She seemed to take it all pretty well, but havent gone home yet , and she has no idea on how much it will probably take to fix it. Considering going forged while I am at it, but time will tell (there goes my tax refund). Will try to keep posted on progress.
I know when I popped my motor in a previous car, we put a take out motor in... was cheaper than fixing the broke motor, even though the broke motor only had one cracked piston and bent couple bent valve... Do something like that and regroup and then possibly build up your broke motor..
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:57 PM   #39
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Thanks for the alternative. Definitely something I will look into.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:28 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by scrming View Post
most likely from running to lean (too much air and not enough fuel), this can cause things go get too hot, burning holes in your pistons. It can also cause pre-detonation, (pinging, knocking, etc.). The pistons in most modern vehicles, are not designed to tolerate a lot of pre-detonation.. and usually what happens is you end up cracking the edge of your piston off... the debris from that can then cause issue, with the valves... I'm guessing a cracked ring landing (edge around the top of the piston) is what happened
Great explanation, thank you. Gonna have to keep a close eye on that A/F gauge now.
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