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Old 04-02-2013, 10:20 AM   #26
pyr0b0y
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Where did you order the race ramps from?
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:51 AM   #27
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Looking good.


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Old 04-02-2013, 02:05 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyr0b0y View Post
Where did you order the race ramps from?
+1 Those are awesome!
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:20 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyr0b0y View Post
Where did you order the race ramps from?
Directly from Race Ramps

Quote:
Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
I love my race ramps (just for getting my low front end into my trailer). This kit would be very nice.
Joe, my thoughts exactly! G5.R is going to be pretty lower with 19" and a drop. So I didn't want to be jacking the car and potentially jacking up the bottom. I put my brothers car on it and it gives you tremendous clearance.


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Originally Posted by vroomapunk View Post
those ramps are so bad ass!

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Originally Posted by Mr. Unassailable View Post
Looking good.


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Originally Posted by kjkjr27 View Post
+1 Those are awesome!
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Originally Posted by 1977and2010 View Post
Those are nice but dam you'd need a seperate trailer just for the ramps.
Thanks guys!

Quick update:

Motor mounts

I will say these mounts are very artsy for a factory piece. So I figured they could use some


Before.........

This shows all the insignia that was removed.

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You can see seems in this picture that were removed.

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After......... much cleaner

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This one shows a lot of rough casting and grinding marks.... go figure

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Finally some color, powder coated in anthracite.


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In this second picture, you can see I replace the nut on the picture above with a ARP chrome molly 12 point. I'm using ARP for the entire project other than the sizes they donít make. I added the cost off all the ARP bolts and was floored, Close to $3,000 in bolts

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More updates tomorrow.
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:31 AM   #30
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Simply fantastic. Awesome craftsmanship!
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:54 PM   #31
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Very cool. Amazing workmanship!

Best regards,

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Old 04-04-2013, 07:26 PM   #32
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How much do the ARP bolts weigh compared to the factory bolts they're replacing? Have you done a weight comparison?
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:41 PM   #33
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You would need titanium bolts for a significant weight difference; not worth it to me.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:16 PM   #34
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Anyone have a idea how much weight could be saved via Titanium bolts???
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:35 PM   #35
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$20K in titanium bolts would save you about 40 lbs...
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:40 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex70olds View Post
Simply fantastic. Awesome craftsmanship!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sales@JDP View Post
Very cool. Amazing workmanship!

Best regards,

Tyler
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Thanks guys!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc View Post
How much do the ARP bolts weigh compared to the factory bolts they're replacing? Have you done a weight comparison?
No because that would mean that I had forethought like you which I don't!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
You would need titanium bolts for a significant weight difference; not worth it to me.
I agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by snickerdoodle View Post
Anyone have a idea how much weight could be saved via Titanium bolts???
Straight from ARP catalog. See text in the box at the bottom of the page.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 14pilot View Post
$20K in titanium bolts would save you about 40 lbs...
Dang that is a lot for very little.


Quick Update:

Control Arms


Unfortunately I didn't take any before pictures on the arms. It would have made it easier to appreciate all the work that went into them. Trust me they didn't look like this before.

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I polished the caps on all the arms including the tie rods on the PS rack (not shown in the pics). When the car will be on the lift I will be able to admire all 6 caps being detailed.

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Once I receive the Pfadt bushings I will replace these. I will also finish cleaning the arm. The perimeter gives you an idea of how rough the arms were.

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What the heck, why not polish the clip for the boot (look closely) while Iím at it. I also polished the tips of the bolt that will be coming through the spindle.

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By the way, I am currently working on the rear sub. Wait to you guys see it. I'm just currently trying to bring this thread current with the stuff I had already done. Te Hammerhead is also looking killer! Stay tuned!




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Old 04-05-2013, 12:16 PM   #37
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You can get aluminum bolts, nuts, washers, etc. which can be used for non-critical areas. They weigh about a third of what steel hardware does. They're also a lot cheaper than titanium.

I've considered that as one of my future projects to reduce more weight; switching out steel fasteners for aluminum in the front of the car wherever reasonable to do so. Might be able to save 5-10 lbs that way. Not a critical thing to do but just one of those casual projects for a weekend.
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:06 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc View Post
You can get aluminum bolts, nuts, washers, etc. which can be used for non-critical areas. They weigh about a third of what steel hardware does. They're also a lot cheaper than titanium.

I've considered that as one of my future projects to reduce more weight; switching out steel fasteners for aluminum in the front of the car wherever reasonable to do so. Might be able to save 5-10 lbs that way. Not a critical thing to do but just one of those casual projects for a weekend.


Hey Doc, Have you sourced a supplier for the aluminum bolts and what bolts did you have in mind that we can replace?


Update:

Power Steering Rack


Here are the humble beginnings of what we started with.

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the plan was to pay homage to the Pfadt suspension components.

In the picture below, we developed a game plan on how to style the rack. The red circles represented the parts that were to be polished for a chrome finish; the orange circle represented the part that we were going to anodize in the Pfadt orange; the beige circle, the body of the rack, we were going to try to come as close to the Pfadt struts color as possible. Like all good plans, things did change as we progressed.

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The process started with the dissasembly of the rack. We enlisted Leeís Power Steering for the job.
Our first snag was that since this power steering rack was a new, late model design, there was not a tool available to remove the internal nut.

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Most racks only require a four tooth socket to remove the nut. Ours required a five tooth socket. So we had to machine one.

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Once the rack was completely disassembled, it was time to start detailing.
Not every day that you get to see the guts of your power steering rack!

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We started to detail each separate component. This piece is where all the lines connect to. The plan was to anodize it orange to stay consistent with the Pfadt colors.
Raw beginnings: Since it was created by sand casting, it had a very rough finish.

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In order to get a machined look, we hand sanded the entire piece. Hand sanding is a much more time consuming process than using power tools, but it is the most effective method to get an even surface.

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Casted pieces will usually not give you as bright of an anodized finish as a billet piece. To help get that desired finish, we polished the piece to a mirror finish.

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The piece was shipped to Pilkington Inc. in Utah to be anodized by the same company that does the anodizing for Pfadt.

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The steering shaft and plug were also polished.

Attachment 494039

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You can see where the nuts have been polished.

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Next we prepared the tie rods for paint.

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Before sending the housing to get powder coated in anthracite, we removed all of the seams and casting on the power steering housing. This is the before picture.

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Many folks were instrumental in the completion of the rack. Jerry and Adam from Leeís Power Steering are hard at work putting the rack back together. These guys really know their stuff. They machine pretty much all of their own stuff. The cad plated fittings were machined at the shop.

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In order to replace the factory hard lines with AN stainless steel braided lines, Leeís Power Steering machined these fittings. We had them CAD plated to provide a nice contrast.

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Next up was the installation of the braided lines.

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There wasnít a detail that didnít get addressed. The factory clamp below is of the garden variety and not up to the level we desired. So we replaced them with stainless steel clamps which were polished before they were installed.

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Attachment 494050

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Attached Images
  
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:14 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno View Post
Hey Doc, Have you sourced a supplier for the aluminum bolts and what bolts did you have in mind that we can replace?


Update:

Power Steering Rack


Here are the humble beginnings of what we started with.

Attachment 494029

the plan was to pay homage to the Pfadt suspension components.

In the picture below, we developed a game plan on how to style the rack. The red circles represented the parts that were to be polished for a chrome finish; the orange circle represented the part that we were going to anodize in the Pfadt orange; the beige circle, the body of the rack, we were going to try to come as close to the Pfadt struts color as possible. Like all good plans, things did change as we progressed.

Attachment 494030

The process started with the dissasembly of the rack. We enlisted Leeís Power Steering for the job.
Our first snag was that since this power steering rack was a new, late model design, there was not a tool available to remove the internal nut.

Attachment 494031

Most racks only require a four tooth socket to remove the nut. Ours required a five tooth socket. So we had to machine one.

Attachment 494032

Attachment 494033

Once the rack was completely disassembled, it was time to start detailing.
Not every day that you get to see the guts of your power steering rack!

Attachment 494034

We started to detail each separate component. This piece is where all the lines connect to. The plan was to anodize it orange to stay consistent with the Pfadt colors.
Raw beginnings: Since it was created by sand casting, it had a very rough finish.

Attachment 494035

In order to get a machined look, we hand sanded the entire piece. Hand sanding is a much more time consuming process than using power tools, but it is the most effective method to get an even surface.

Attachment 494036

Casted pieces will usually not give you as bright of an anodized finish as a billet piece. To help get that desired finish, we polished the piece to a mirror finish.

Attachment 494037

The piece was shipped to Pilkington Inc. in Utah to be anodized by the same company that does the anodizing for Pfadt.

Attachment 494038

The steering shaft and plug were also polished.

Attachment 494039

Attachment 494040

You can see where the nuts have been polished.

Attachment 494041

Next we prepared the tie rods for paint.

Attachment 494042

Before sending the housing to get powder coated in anthracite, we removed all of the seams and casting on the power steering housing. This is the before picture.

Attachment 494043

Many folks were instrumental in the completion of the rack. Jerry and Adam from Leeís Power Steering are hard at work putting the rack back together. These guys really know their stuff. They machine pretty much all of their own stuff. The cad plated fittings were machined at the shop.

Attachment 494044

In order to replace the factory hard lines with AN stainless steel braided lines, Leeís Power Steering machined these fittings. We had them CAD plated to provide a nice contrast.

Attachment 494045

Next up was the installation of the braided lines.

Attachment 494046

Attachment 494047

Attachment 494048

There wasnít a detail that didnít get addressed. The factory clamp below is of the garden variety and not up to the level we desired. So we replaced them with stainless steel clamps which were polished before they were installed.

Attachment 494049

Attachment 494050

Attachment 494051
Soooo pretty.
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:30 PM   #40
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Hey Doc, Have you sourced a supplier for the aluminum bolts and what bolts did you have in mind that we can replace?
I went back to my bookmarks list and was surprised to find one of them appears to be no longer in business, the second one is no longer selling retail. Here's a few links that are still working:

These guys sell specifically for Harley Davidsons but might be a source for the bolts and fasteners that would be the same as our cars use.

http://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium.html

This place looks good and not too far for you to drive to if you wanted to check them out in person:

http://www.non-ferrousfastener.com/index.php

These guys are also "local" to you. I remember going to them in the late 70's for braided stainless lines, couplers, etc.

http://www.gandjaircraft.net/index-1.html

This place is also a performance bike shop but sells titanium and aluminum fasteners, etc.

http://www.oppracing.com/category/13...ews-fasteners/

I had planned at some time in the future to go through the front of the car and see what steel bolts/washers/nuts could be replaced with performance aluminum. Specifically anything that wasn't handling stress; just holding something together, holding an assembly to something else, fender bolts, etc. Since you're already removing everything in the front it looks like, you'd be in a great position to know which pieces could be replaced.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:21 AM   #41
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Soooo pretty.
Thanks RJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc View Post
I went back to my bookmarks list and was surprised to find one of them appears to be no longer in business, the second one is no longer selling retail. Here's a few links that are still working:

These guys sell specifically for Harley Davidson's but might be a source for the bolts and fasteners that would be the same as our cars use.

http://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium.html

This place looks good and not too far for you to drive to if you wanted to check them out in person:

http://www.non-ferrousfastener.com/index.php

These guys are also "local" to you. I remember going to them in the late 70's for braided stainless lines, couplers, etc.

http://www.gandjaircraft.net/index-1.html

This place is also a performance bike shop but sells titanium and aluminum fasteners, etc.

http://www.oppracing.com/category/13...ews-fasteners/

I had planned at some time in the future to go through the front of the car and see what steel bolts/washers/nuts could be replaced with performance aluminum. Specifically anything that wasn't handling stress; just holding something together, holding an assembly to something else, fender bolts, etc. Since you're already removing everything in the front it looks like, you'd be in a great position to know which pieces could be replaced.
Doc, I'm working on aircraft aviation 12 point bolts for the chassis/suspension components. These are primary for strength and they are super expensive!!! I will keep you posted.

Update:

Pfadt Bushing installation

This was one easy mod.


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Simply lube the outside of each half of the bushing and install.


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Next, lube the outside of the center pin and install.


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No need for a lot of force. You can simply push it in with the palm of your hand.


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I'm still working on getting caught up updating the front sub steps but I figured I'd give you a quick peek at the rear sub...... Stay Tuned!

Justin spent 15 hours cleaning the sub prior to going to the powder coater. I can imaged he got rid of a pound of just welding splatter. You'll see what mean when I post the pictures.

The anthracite gray and Pfadt orange look killer. Much better than the factory black.


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There is about 30 hours cleaning the HAMMERHEAD (a lot of manual hand sanding went into getting it perfectly smooth) but the finish product looks amazing! Here is another sneak peek..... Next it will get sonic cleaned followed by powder coating and back to Frank at DSS for Assembly.

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Old 04-08-2013, 05:42 AM   #42
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Your build is mind blowing. I would be lying if I didn't admit that I find myself strangely aroused after reading your threads.
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:26 AM   #43
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Your build is mind blowing. I would be lying if I didn't admit that I find myself strangely aroused after reading your threads.
Lol we promise not to tell Victoria Chase.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:03 AM   #44
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Next, lube the outside of the center pin and install.

No need for a lot of force. You can simply push it in with the palm of your hand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex Chase View Post
Your build is mind blowing. I would be lying if I didn't admit that I find myself strangely aroused after reading your threads.
I can see why
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:14 PM   #45
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Kudos Nathan, this build leaves me speechless! The work you have put into this car would cost over $20,000.... just in labor
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:47 PM   #46
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Kudos Nathan, this build leaves me speechless! The work you have put into this car would cost over $20,000.... just in labor
It would cost A LOT more than that! Even at a low shop rate!
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:33 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex Chase View Post
Your build is mind blowing. I would be lying if I didn't admit that I find myself strangely aroused after reading your threads.
That is some funny stuff right there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hcoll003 View Post
Kudos Nathan, this build leaves me speechless! The work you have put into this car would cost over $20,000.... just in labor
Thanks Hcoll003!

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Originally Posted by NC-V View Post
It would cost A LOT more than that! Even at a low shop rate!
Hey Kyle! I'd hate to think how much it would cost me if I were farming it out.

Quick update:

Rear Diff resurfacing


The first few pics gives an idea of were I started.

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To remove the section in the red circle and get a perfect finish (Dremel will leave divots) I wrapped a piece of sanding paper around a a painters mixing stick and shaped it by hand.

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And finally......... It's now off to the powder coater were it will be finished in a textured silver.

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Before pic of the cover

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And after.......

the cover will be powder coated texture black to match the oil pan with ARP bolts. The thing is I'm now thinking of dry sumping

Note: The areas where the bushings fit are polished to a mirror finish.

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PS, sorry for the bad iphone pics.

Last edited by Nathan Moreno; 04-08-2013 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:46 PM   #48
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dude you are insane what would you do if the first time you take it out you have a jackass run a red light and t-bone you i think i would go o jail because i would kill him lol nah but for real this is amazing
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:51 PM   #49
Jayrcr3

 
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That diff is a work of art!

Unbelievable job.

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American Racing 1 7/8" Headers and Hi-Flow Cats, CAI cold air intake, Flowmaster AT exhaust, Vengeance Racing Stage 2 cam, VMax ported throttle body, TEA valve springs and titanium retainers, Trick Flow hardened pushrods, 180* T-stat, Comp Trunion kit, ZL1 Fuel Pump, ADM Fuel Pump Control Module, 20% window tint, Whipple Supercharger. Tuned by Mike Norris Motorsports. 656rwhp/584rwtq @10 PSI.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:16 PM   #50
christianmotox


 
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Looking at the pieces you are creating, it reminds me of Pagani and his attention to detail. I have nothing technical to add to you're thread but
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