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Old 04-03-2013, 11:14 AM   #18
Rick@MidwayPerformance
 
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I use a set of drive on ramps and I back my truck up on them to reduce my break over point. This allows the splitter to clear and it wont high center when its half way up. I use the 12000 lbs rated ramps and then just toss them in the back of the truck.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:34 AM   #19
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It's going to be a hit or miss with UHaul. I looked at those before buying my trailer and there was no way my car would fit without hitting. I'm lowered 1" and then another .35" because of tire height. My problem is the cats hitting the dove tail on the trailer. I had to buy the long Race Ramps to lessen the angle so my splitter didn't hit. You and I have the same exhaust, so you need to watch that as well.

Pete is right on with securing it using the control arms. Do not try and tie it down with the suspension as some have mentioned on this site. I loop my rachet tie-downs around the rear LCA and the front LCA. The car doesn't slide on long trips. The wheel tie-down would work well if the trailer is equipped to use them.

Here's my setup.
Damn B, you have a trailer too. I might have to come down to visit to see what else you are hiding.

T.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:37 AM   #20
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use the slightest hump to pull ur back wheels of ur truck on and with the trailer still hooked up crank it down and throw the ass of the truck up in the air . this will lower the rear of the trailer. or if there is a nice lil hill or hump thats smooth and the right angle makes it alot easier.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:30 PM   #21
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Great suggestions and ideas guys. I think I will use a combination of a few. I have ramps to drive the front of the truck up on and plus I am going to get some 2x10's. I did just find out that the trailer I am renter only has front tire straps, now for the back I am just going to chain down the rear lower control arms as per suggested in this thread. Should I rap the lca with towels or anything?
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:30 PM   #22
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ya we alway x them at the rear helps with side to side movement.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:00 PM   #23
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ya we alway x them at the rear helps with side to side movement.
Good call. I forget to mention that. So he's saying the car rear left should be tied to the trailer's right side, and vice versa.

Also, I used small jack stands at the rear of the trailer so that when the weight of the car hits the rear of the trailer it doesn't drop. If you are close to hitting the splitter like me, this keeps the trailer from dipping. I use a bottle jack to raise the trailer to get the jacks out after the car is loaded.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:21 PM   #24
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Ok. Gotcha about the X strapping. I went and bought two 2" straps. Also went and looked at the trailer. It is uhaul's 7000 lbs trailer. Looks like it will be pretty easy. Even the ramps come out pretty far. The only thing that looked if'y was on the front of the trailer there is a lip where the tires bump up against and then you strap them down. That lip looked to be about 6-8" high. I hope my 1+" drop in the front does make that lip a pain. If so I thought I could always put some wood under the front tires to raise it a bit.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:03 PM   #25
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Wow! Thx HRD_WRK! Already trucking with some Chevy on Chevy love. All you guys were a huge help. Thanks everyone. Oh and thank you Raymonds! Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365094960.309669.jpg
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Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365094983.159683.jpg
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:02 PM   #26
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Wow! Thx HRD_WRK! Already trucking with some Chevy on Chevy love. All you guys were a huge help. Thanks everyone. Oh and thank you Raymonds! Attachment 493563
Attachment 493564
Looks like you had to Dukes of Hazzard your way out of the car
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:26 AM   #27
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I have a stupid question. I'm about to buy a trailer...how do you get in and out of the car when it is on the trailer. Doesn't look like much room to open the door on any of these...
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:29 AM   #28
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I have a stupid question. I'm about to buy a trailer...how do you get in and out of the car when it is on the trailer. Doesn't look like much room to open the door on any of these...
You spend the money on a trailer with removable fenders. On my single open trailer the drivers door will just clear the fender. On low air the door rubs.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:20 AM   #29
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I trailer mine everywhere, and I have mine lowered A LOT. Getting in and out of an enclosed trailer can be done two ways: go through the trunk; or crawl through the window. Window is easier, I just take my shoes off.

Some trailers have escape doors on the side so you can get out, but you can do it pretty easily without one.

Also, if you haven't trailered a car before, remember to leave the car in neutral and the parking brake off.
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:34 PM   #30
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. . .
Also, if you haven't trailered a car before, remember to leave the car in neutral and the parking brake off.
Intersting? . . . May I inquire as to the logic for this?
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:29 AM   #31
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I trailer mine everywhere, and I have mine lowered A LOT. Getting in and out of an enclosed trailer can be done two ways: go through the trunk; or crawl through the window. Window is easier, I just take my shoes off.

Some trailers have escape doors on the side so you can get out, but you can do it pretty easily without one.

Also, if you haven't trailered a car before, remember to leave the car in neutral and the parking brake off.
Absolutly not.

1 load car in or on trailer leave in neutral set parking brake
2 hook all for corners and snug straps
3 remove parking brake
4 tighten straps
5 set parking brake
6 put in park or gear.

Seting the parking brake after tieing down will cause no harm to the car what so ever. This is how the manufactures transport them!!!!

I know people disagree with cluster hooks and tieing down from the frame as I recomend but at least set the e brake.

Please don't belive everything you read talk to an old auto transporter. Someone who's been doing it for 30 years. Thats who taught me and we probably tied down over a thousand cars together helping him load.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:53 AM   #32
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1 load car in or on trailer leave in neutral set parking brake
2 hook all for corners and snug straps
3 remove parking brake
4 tighten straps
5 set parking brake
6 put in park or gear.

Setting the parking brake after tieing down will cause no harm to the car what so ever. This is how the manufactures transport them!!!!

I know people disagree with cluster hooks and tieing down from the frame as I recommend but at least set the e brake.

Please don't belive everything you read talk to an old auto transporter. Someone who's been doing it for 30 years. Thats who taught me and we probably tied down over a thousand cars together helping him load.
Agree 100% ^ This is what I do too.

Use "J" hooks and tie the car down by the frame. I also criss cross the straps, which is to prevent the car from moving side to side in an "situation" . . .
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:05 AM   #33
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I have a stupid question. I'm about to buy a trailer...how do you get in and out of the car when it is on the trailer. Doesn't look like much room to open the door on any of these...
I can only speak for my open trailer, but even with the 5200 lbs axles and bigger wheel/tires, and lowered car, my doors open over the top of the fenders. I ordered it with removable fenders as SSS mentioned, but have never taken them off....
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:50 AM   #34
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Custom raised deck and an 8' wide awning door.



Crossed straps.



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