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Old 04-01-2013, 08:44 PM   #1
Iam Broke
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Crankshaft is pinned

Got the SLP pinning kit today. Nice quality drill bit, reamer, guide, bolt & new GM crank bolt. Took the intake off & moved the SC res over to make room. Also took the fans out for more clearance.

Had a very hard time getting the crank bolt out. My 120 ft/lb impact at 125 psi would not budge it. 4th gear & full parking brake, 5 ft pipe on the breaker bar and the car kept creeping toward me. Blocked the wheels, got all of my 220# fat azz on it and it finally popped loose. I can't hardly believe the sucker would ever slip even pulley'd down. Thank God for 6 pt impact sockets.

Crank is drilled & reamed, pin inserted, new GM bolt started and waiting on my torque angle meter to get here. Should be a blast trying to get 140* rotation after 39 ft/lbs.

This old coot needs more Wheaties!
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:00 PM   #2
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I had ITGuy11 help me with mine. I don't think I could have figured it out based on my install instructions. breaking it was a pain. Impact did nothing also. Breaker bar was the way to go.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:07 PM   #3
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Slp 91mm pulley & shorter belt on also, looking for 9psi.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:55 PM   #4
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That was a pain breaking loose the crank bolt. Thought I was gonna break the socket before the bolt broke loose. The rest was easy from there
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:10 AM   #5
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This is the part that scares me on my upcoming install.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:27 AM   #6
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If you put heat on it the crank bolt it comes out without a fight. Nothing crazy just some map gas does the trick
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:01 AM   #7
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No MAPP here, just propane. I didn't think of it though.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:43 AM   #8
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Instead of the GM bolt, you can use the ARP bolt. It is reusable and you torque it to 235 lbs. You will need a 27mm or 1 1/16 socket in 12 point.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:49 AM   #9
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Excellent! The first time you take out a stock bolt always seems to be the worst. MAN those things are on there tight. Nothing like a flywheel holding tool though and a huge breaker bar!
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:22 AM   #10
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Already got the GM bolt so it'll be going in when I get the torque degree indicator.

My torque wrench stops at 150 ft/lbs anyway. 5' pipe FTW!
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:10 PM   #11
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Bolt is torqued to 37 ft/lbs + 140*. Took the 5' pipe to get it done.

No chance to take it out today for a pull though.
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:11 PM   #12
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Got to flog it today, gained ~2psi boost. Went from 6.8-7 psi on the 98mm pulley to 8.8-9.0 psi on the 91mm. Tune is still ~3% on the rich side but IDC is at 80% on E35 and fuel pressure is holding up. It takes approx 10% more fuel for E35 97 octane than E10 93 btw.

Walked away from a Roush Mustang pretty bad. lol. Gotta find a dyno around here.
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:50 PM   #13
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i am considering doing my install myself, but this is the part that scares me the most for some reason. damn crank bolt has me worried for some reason.
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:03 PM   #14
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Like was posted earlier, heat it up. Propane torch'd prob get it hot enough.
I wish I'd of thought of it.
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:07 PM   #15
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would i directly heat the bolt up itself? and how long would i need to heat it?
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:10 PM   #16
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Until it can be loosened. lol. Might take 5 mins or more.

Put it in 4th, set the parking brake and block the wheels. If you can't get it loose yourself, then take it to a shop.

I'm 55, fat & lazy & I got it loose.
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Until it can be loosened. lol. Might take 5 mins or more.

Put it in 4th, set the parking brake and block the wheels. If you can't get it loose yourself, then take it to a shop.

I'm 55, fat & lazy & I got it loose.
in your opinion, what was the hardest part of the whole install?
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:30 PM   #18
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Pinning the crank. Mine is a new style SLP kit so the SC and intake manifold were separate pieces I was able to manage by myself.

The intercooler lines under the front end and the coolant pump mount weren't a lot of fun though.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:17 PM   #19
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hoses on the lower of the radiator after the radiator was mounted was my hardest part. whole thing is super easy
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Pinning the crank. Mine is a new style SLP kit so the SC and intake manifold were separate pieces I was able to manage by myself.

The intercooler lines under the front end and the coolant pump mount weren't a lot of fun though.
Quote:
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hoses on the lower of the radiator after the radiator was mounted was my hardest part. whole thing is super easy
so it definitely sounds like the hoses are a PITA.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:44 PM   #21
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Yep, used a hole saw from underneath the front end. Prob be easier taking the bumper cover off.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:49 PM   #22
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Yep, used a hole saw from underneath the front end. Prob be easier taking the bumper cover off.
this may be a dumb question, but i am looking at the instructions that show the heat exchanger with the two hoses on the bottom, where do those hose run to after the leave the exchanger?
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:09 PM   #23
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The pass side goes up to the intercooler on the intake mani. Driver's side to the coolant reservoir iirc. The website (slponline.com) has updated pdf files for the install. I know one I dl'd showed the hose routing. My original didn't.

You don't have to pin the crank btw for the kit. The kit does not include it. They sell a kit separately. It's a good idea though.
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:10 PM   #24
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Ok thanks for the information.
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